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A long time had passed since we last compared California Zinfandels blind (we previously tried these in December 2015). This was a thoroughly enjoyable tasting, and a reminder that even though Zins are often described as "gateway" reds for their overt character, they can also be complex, interesting values that come in a range of styles. None were duds. One bottle garnered no points, but it was well-made, just not in a style we prefer.

Our top two wines were separated by only two points, both from Sonoma County, and both coming from classic producers. They were also excellent values, with the winner of the evening coming in at only $22, showing complexity and power to spare.

First Place: St. Francis Zinfandel Old Vines 2019 (Sonoma County). Opaque, with complex aromas of coffee, licorice, black cherries, dried figs, new leather, and mango skin. It's a little dusty, but also intriguing, with forest qualities and a little smoke. Inviting. Pretty in the mouth, with an expansive, velvety texture that's full-bodied, powerful, and intense, showing flavors of dark chocolate, figs, eucalyptus, raisins, and toasted marshmallow, moving to some black pepper on the finish. David felt that this was "seamless in a way that isn't simple", and Andy noted that it "brings you different places". Andy, David, Kristin, and Ali's favorite of the night, for a total of 25 points. Matt's bottle. About $22.

Second Place: Seghesio Zinfaldel 2022 (Sonoma County). Slightly less vivid in color, with tasters finding scents of moist basement, black plastic garbage bag, licorice, freshly brewed coffee, potting soil/wet earth, and coffee cherries. Dark. Brighter in the mouth, with a weighty, creamy mouthfeel that's mouthcoating and consistent. Red roses on the attack, then notions of milk chocolate and beef blood, ending with a burst of acidity to go with licorice and squid ink flavors. Diana and Matt's favorite. 23 points. Ali's bottle. About $25.

Third Place: Frog's Leap Zinfandel 2020 (Napa Valley). Stemmy on the nose, like tomato plant, along with fresh sage, orange peel, cedar, suede, old wood, cinnamon, and blood orange. Very nice in texture, with both black pepper and green peppercorn notes, coming off as herbaceous and fresh, then something a little smokey. Not super-complex, but does what it does really well. 15 points. Andy's bottle. About $50.

Valravn Zinfandel 2022 (Sonoma County). Dark in color, hinting at purple. Cranberries, cherries, raisins, dried thyme, and honeysuckle scents, but also had a brightness to it, like a perfumed powder or Ivory soap, plus hints of vanilla and toast. Good intensity. Powerful in the mouth, offering flavors of burnt sugar, dried cranberries, and then cinnamon and licorice on the bright finish. Ali was reminded of "full-on prune." 14 points. Kristin's bottle.

Bonterra Zinfandel 2021 (California). Tasters were immediately overwhelmed by spearmint gum scents. With time, notions of white flowers, spent coffee grounds, licorice, lemon basil, and older book emerged. Ali felt that it was a little gamey. Easy, approachable texture held flavors Nestea, brown sugar, and wood. Not very complex, with less weight than the other, finishing rather quickly. Kristin was reminded of "cherry in a simple way," with David noting that it "feels like it's not trying too hard." Ali noted "fruit punch on the attack", and felt that it was the "younger brother of glass #2" (the Seghesio). Diana found a "popsicle stick" note, and overall decided on "delightful." 7 points. Diana's bottle. About $16.

Baca Zinfandel Double Ranch Dusi Vineyard 2020 (Paso Robles). Vegetal aromas of rotten green beans, compost bin, and canned black olives. Ali noted "bean baby food" and "sweet potato from a can," while Matt found "a sophisticated soft cheese." David concentrated on the cough syrup notes. A little candied on the palate, plus a little hot and disjointed, with flavors of compost and rotting green peppers. Medicinal, with dark cherry notes and fennel salami. Diana found notions of "pool water." No points. David's bottle. About $38.