-  December 10, 2024

Poderi Cellario Favorita Lafrea 2023 (Langhe). Like bright, fresh, white flowers on the nose, or laundry hanging outside to try, then notions of green pears, lemon peel, and chopped parsley. Zipppy and endearing in the mouth, with a lean but energetic style, featuring crushed rock and light citrus flavors, ending with pleasant bitterness. This grape is also known as Vermentino. Drink within a couple of years. About $19.

-  December 4, 2024

Clos Figueras Poblets del Montsant 2020 (Montsant). Made from 75% Grenache, 15% Carignan, and 10% Syrah, this comes off as youthful and energetic, with exuberant scents of bright fresh cherries, blackberries, Dr. Pepper, brewed coffee, and hints of exotic spices. Medium to full-bodied, and much darker in the mouth, going toward licorice, dark cherry, blueberry, and black plum flavors, ending shadowy, with espresso and crushed rock notes. I wouldn't call this refined, but is clearly well-made, especially for the price. Drink within 6 years. About $23.

-  December 1, 2024

Domaine des Rabichattes Montaillant 2023 (Côtes de la Charité). First time trying this appellation! Technically, this is part of the Loire, but it creeps up on Burgundy, and is a bit unusual in that it's made from 100% Chardonnay, instead of Sauvignon Blanc or Chenin. Very clear and bright in the glass, with scents of white peach, river rock, green pears, fresh herbs, and lemon rind. Bright and fresh, but also has surprising concentration, with ripe Meyer lemon and apple flavors, ending with a hint of butterscotch. Drink within a couple of years. About $25.

-  November 25, 2024

Van Zellers & Co. VZ Tinto 2019 (Douro). Shows some freshness and precision on the nose, but also dark qualities of licorice, tobacco smoke, crushed rocks, and blackberries. Shows more primary fruit on the palate, like blueberries, blackberries, and cherries. Appears to have settled into a very balanced, elegant stage compared to when we first tried this, exhibiting excellent purity, great acidity, and flow. Still, this is a Douro red, so it also has power and fine tannins. Great now, but feel free to hold on to this for at least 8 years. About $26.

-  November 18, 2024

Quinta da Alorna Marquesa de Alorna Grande Reserva 2016 (Tejo). Made from 30% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Franca, 25% Castelão, plus 10% Alicante Bouschet and 5% Trincadeira, this smells like a smoldering campfire and dark, dark fruit (plums, blackberries, blueberries), plus notions of anise and mocha. Still, there's some freshness to it also, especially on the palate, where fine-grained tannins mix with charcoal, underbrush, and licorice flavors. Intense. Ready now, but this is likely to last another 8 years. About $40.

-  November 17, 2024

Louis Jadot Pommard 2020. Really pretty, well-defined, and youthful, showing scents of cranberries, black cherries, freshly brewed coffee, cocoa power, and hints of leafy tobacco. Ripe, but not overdone in the mouth, featuring ample red berry and blueberry fruit, but anchored by fresh acids and savory qualities, like fermented soy and shitake mushroom. This will clearly develop in 3-5 years, but it's hard to resist now. About $80.

-  November 10, 2024

Paolo Scavino Barolo Monvigliero 2013. Shows some rusty color, with a nose like a bouquet of dried red roses, plus dried cherries, tar, fall leaves, soy sauce, and dark mushrooms. Harmonious palate, with medium body, full of both elegance and power. Dried orange peel, tobacco, anise, and mocha flavors that are well-integrated with solid acidity. Tannins are still very evident. Excellent now, but this isn't going anywhere soon. About $70.

-  November 9, 2024

Failla Pinot Noir Olivet Ranch 2022 (Russian River Valley). This is a very elegant version, offering somewhat hesitant scents of cherries, wet wood, and tobacco leaf. Pretty and fresh. Shows excellent purity in the mouth, adding blackberry flavors to the dominant cherry notes, then more of that leafy, cigar tobacco qualities, ending with subtle herbal and licorice flavors. Focused. Great now, but will last for at least 10 years. About $56.

-  November 4, 2024

Taboadella Encruzado 2022 (Dão). We loved the 2021 last year, and this year's version is just as good, if not a touch better, with fantastic energy and minerality, both on the nose and palate. Excellent intensity through the mid-palate, with concentrated citrus peel notes, along with notions of pear and white peach. Ends with a hint of pleasant bitterness, plus more of that minerality. Great stuff. About $30.

-  October 27, 2024

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2016. Really beautiful nose, smelling of bright cherries, violets, freshly brewed coffee, dried tobacco, blueberries, and hints of milk chocolate. The texture is elegant and seamless, flowing across the palate with notions of both red and black fruit, anchored by fine tannins and solid acidity, ending very long, with hints of dried herbs and wave of plums and mocha. Still rather youthful, so feel free to hold on to this for at least another 10 years. About $65.

-  October 22, 2024

Sophie Schaal Pinot Gris 2022 (Alsace). Shows ripe peaches on the nose, balanced out by plenty of minerality and herbal notes, like parsley and thyme, plus notions of cinnamon and lemon peel. Has excellent intensity on the palate, with concentrated lime/tangerine/lemon flavors, then hints of tropical fruit, and white chocolate. Pair with richer fish dishes, preferably with lots of butter. Drink within a few years. About $20.

-  October 14, 2024

Jean Pabiot & Fils Pouilly-Fumé Domaine Des Fines Caillottes 2023. Shows both focus and generosity on the nose, offering complex scents of lime peel, wet stones, nectarine, green pears, clementine, and fresh herb/grassy notes. With impressive intensity in the mouth, this is no shy French white, having plenty of energy to go with the ripe citrus flavors, ending with snappy salty mineral qualities. Drink within a few years. About $24.

-  October 6, 2024

Huré Frères Champagne Brut Invitation Non-Vintage. Made from equal parts Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, plus 20% Chardonnay, this is dusty on the nose initially, then offers scents of preserved lemon, ginger, white flowers, green pears, and active bread dough. Shows intensity in the mouth, along with very bright acidity, with flavors that lean on the citrus spectrum, ending with a chalky/salty sensation. This version was disgorged in January 2022 after spending 2 years on the lees. About $60.

-  September 1, 2024

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2016 (Napa Valley). Opaque ruby in color, then a beautiful, pure nose of cassis, crushed blackberries, dark cherries, freshly brewed coffee, licorice, violets, and dried orange peel. Very complex and interesting. Then on the palate there's this sense of elegance and presence, showing no heaviness and is unburdened by too much weight. Superlatively balanced acidity and fine tannins are integrated with black/blue berry flavors and forest floor notes, ending very, very long, with a hint of licorice and dusty cocoa. The texture is heavenly. An outstanding version of BPR, seemingly better than the past few vintages we've tried. Drink now through 2035. About $150.

-  September 24, 2024

Girlan Pinot Noir Patricia 2021 (Sudtirol-Alto Adige). Like cranberries and fresh cherries on the nose, plus notions of cola, licorice, and subtle spices. Remarkable freshness. The palate shows elegance and a lithe quality about it, making for a Pinot Noir that doesn't hit you over the head, but rather charms with its brightness and purity. Energetic berry flavors, mostly. But then some salty soy sauce and mushroom on the finish. Would pair well with seared tuna. Drink within 5 years. About $36.

-  September 16, 2024

Arnaud Lambert Saumur Blanc Midi 2022. Organically grown from Brézé, this offers pure scents of river rock and white flowers, with hints of green pear, fresh herbs, and tangerine. Medium-bodied and very vibrant, showing more of that river rock note on the palate, then notions of orange peel and sea salt. Electric acidity. Drink within a few years. About $26.

-  September 9, 2024

Thevenet & Fils Mâcon Pierreclos 2022. There are hints of leafy tobacco and wet soil on the nose, but mostly it's bright cherry, plum, pomegranate, and violet scents. Shows purity and focus. Plenty of acidity, but isn't shrill, this has a pleasing flow across the palate, where a notions of wild underbrush combine with cherry fruit. Solid finish. Drink within 6 years. About $19.

-  September 3, 2024

Domaine du Grand Montmirail Gigondas Le Coteau de mon Reve 2017. Made from 75% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 5% Mourvedre, this is nearly opaque, with soaring scents of black plums, crushed dark cherries, and red roses, with subtle hints of freshly brewed coffee, smoke, and licorice. Impressive focus and purity on the nose leads way to a fantastic palate that brims with red fruit, but is also anchored by notions of crushed rocks and graphite. Full-bodied, with an attack that can knock you over, but moves on to more savory iodine qualities through the long finish. Ready now, but will hold for at least 6 more years. About $50.

-  August 27, 2024

Izadi Rioja Reserva 2019. Not shy on the nose, offering scents of camp smoke and crushed blackberries/cherries, then notions of freshly brewed coffee and new leather. The palate is refined and energetic, but also robust, with lots of dark fruit, dark spice, and mocha notes, ending moderately long. Solidly built. Drink within 8 years. Always a great value. About $21.

-  August 20, 2024

Camille Savès Champagne Brut Carte Blanche Non-Vintage. Made from 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay coming from the Grand Cru village of Bouzy, this flashes a hint of gold in color, with effusive scents of active bread dough, orange peel, white flowers, ginger, lemon rind, raspberries, and ripe pears. Shows impressive intensity in the mouth allied with zippy acids and precision. Fills the palate with both red berry notes and citrus flavors, all with a chalky underpinning. Impressive. Hints of butterscotch on the finish. This bottle was disgorged in November 2022, but will be fine for another few years. About $65.

-  August 6, 2024

Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2014. Smells like dried, crushed red rose petals mixed with notions of coffee beans, orange peel, camp smoke, and subtle hints of cherries and dust. Very pretty. Medium-bodied, with a freshness uncommon for a 10 year old wine, having flavors of wild berries, tobacco, underbrush, tar, and dark spices. With ample tannins, this is outstanding now, but will last for another 10 years. About $55.

-  July 31, 2024

Clos des Fous Pinot Noir Subsollum 2020 (Aconagua Costa). Sports focused, pretty scents of leafy dark tobacco on top of cranberry and bright cherry fruit notes, plus notions of mushroom and wet forest soil. Love the texture and purity here, coming off as polished and elegant, which is no small feat for a Pinot Noir at this price. Solid dark red fruit flavors are matched with savory dried herb qualities. I would drink within 5 years. About $22.

-  July 12, 2024

Domaine de Villargeau Coteaux du Giennois Les Abeilles 2022. Very fresh and inviting on the nose, suggesting white flowers, lemon peel, river rock, and freshly chopped herbs. Zippy and alive, this isn't very complex or generous, but is appealing for its energy and minerality, with flavors of pomelo and green pear, ending with notions of cut grass. Would be great with a seafood tower. Drink within a couple of years. About $20.

-  July 9, 2024

San Felice Vigorello 2016 (Toscana). Made from 35% Pugnitello, 30% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Petit Verdot, this offers an impressive nose of smoldering campfire, cherry preserves, plums, freshly brewed coffee, blackberries, and red licorice. Beautiful in texture, with an effortless feel to it, but also has fine tannins and graceful acidity that lifts up the dark tobacco and graphite notes, along with both black and red fruit flavors. Outstanding now, but will last for another 8 or more years. About $55.

-  July 2, 2024

Château Símon Graves Blanc 2022. This has a generous nose, featuring scents of lime peel, guava, bell peppers, melon, grass, passion fruit, and green mango. Zippy acidity and impressive density of flavor, with notions of freshly cut herbs to go with the citrus and exotic fruit flavors. Very nicely done for this price. Drink now. About $19.

-  June 25, 2024

Palmer & Co. Champagne Brut Rosé Solera Non-Vintage. Sporting a beautiful, copper color, like a shiny penny, with scents of mandarin orange peel, raspberries, active bread dough, strawberries, and lemon curd. Almost exuberant in the mouth, showing plenty of red berry flavors, but there's also minerality in the form of crushed rock notes, plus abundant acidity. Ends long. Made from 52% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, and 19% Pinot Meunier. Excellent now, but might be better in a year. Lot number L21003C. About $59.

-  June 20, 2024

Domaine Cheysson Chiroubles Clos Les Farges 2021. Focused and intense, this is like dark, crushed cherries on the nose, plus notions of leafy tobacco, freshly brewed coffee, pomegranate, cola, and spice drawer. The plum and cherry dark fruit profile on the palate is matched by elevated acidity and savory notes, ending with a touch of herbaceousness. Great now, but this will hold up for at least 5 years. About $20.

-  June 13, 2024

Herdade do Sobroso Branco 2022 (Alentejo). Made from 30% Antao Vaz, 30% Arinto, 20% Verdelho, and 20% Perrum, this offers vibrant scents of green pears, lemon peel, orange blossom, and river rock. Fresh and immediately likeable, it has focused citrus and green herb flavors that are driven by zippy acids. Really like the purity here. Drink within a couple of years. About $16.

-  May 29, 2024

Diatom Chardonnay 2023 (Santa Barbara County). Pale in color, this is steely and very bright on the nose, having more in common with Chablis than an exotic, overdone California Chardonnay. Scents of white peach, lemon peel, crushed shells, and freshly chopped herbs. Extremely zippy in the mouth, with a saline electricity to it, leaning toward green pear and lemon balm flavors. Produced without oak or malolactic fermentation. Might be bettter in a year, but this is very impressive. About $30.

-  May 27 2024

Celler Cecilio Black Slate Gratallops 2021 (Priorat). Smells brighter, fresher than last year's version, but also potent, with scents of black cherries, licorice, freshly brewed coffee, camp smoke, crushed rocks, and boysenberry. Exhuberant dark fruit on the attack, like a crushed blackberries, blueberries, and cherries, then mocha and a spicy, peppery note, finishing with a touch of leather and dried leaf. More approachable than the 2020, and very enjoyable, especially at this price. About $23.

-  May 25, 2024

Château Faugères Saint Emilion 2014. Has a fantastic, generous nose of both red and black fruits, but also graphite, cedar, and licorice, seeming still youthfull at the 10 year mark. Lovely texture. Medium to full-bodied, showing elegance and refined tannins surrounding flavors of plums, anise, tobacco, coffee, red berries, and dark mushrooms. Has energy through the long finish. Great now, and there's no reason to not open it, but will be fine for at least 8 more years. About $45.

- May 19, 2024

Louis Michel & Fils Chablis Montmain 2021. A Premier Cru Chablis exhibiting a pale yellow color and scents of almonds, spring meadow, lemon peel, laundry soap, salt marsh, and white peach. Shows freshness and good intensity, with bright acidity and verve, having green notes of pear and fresh herbs, but also tangerine and honey. Finishes with a crushed shell note. Excellent. About $55.

-  May 12, 2024

Joseph Drouhin Gevrey-Chambertin 2019. Shows very little evolvement in color, with a fantastic, mostly primary nose of crushed, juicy cherries, pomegranate, and strawberry, then notions of black tea, wet soil, and freshly brewed coffee. Stays fresh and bright through all of the exhuberant red fruit flavors, with refined tannins and a long finish, where hints of orange peel and dark spice emerge. Excellent now, but will gain more nuance in a few years. About $85.

-  May 5, 2024

Moët & Chandon Dom Perignon Champagne Brut 2004. Effusive scents of honeysuckle, clementine, pastry shop, candied ginger, lemon peel, toasted nuts, orange marmalade, and juniper berries. Absolutely beautiful in the mouth, having focus and acidity, but also shows autumnal evolution, with some white mushroom and butterscotch notes, followed by red berries, stone fruits, sea salt, citrus preserves, and hints of ginger and toasted whole wheat bread. Long, long detailed finish that stays bright and elegant, but has no shortage of intensity and impact. Outstanding now, but will continue to evolve for years to come. Just plain wow. About $250.

-  May 2, 2024

Bernabeleva Camino de Navaherreros Blanco 2021 (Vinos de Madrid). Shows some hints of gold color, followed by a waxy nose, also reminiscent of red apples, orange peel, marshmallows, and lanolin. Nicely balanced, with solid acidity matched by ripe pear and citrus flavors, then some rocky notes on the finish. Drink within a year or so. About $17.

Bernabeleva Camino de Navaherreros Tinto 2022 (Vinos de Madrid). Sports a bright ruby hue, with scents of ripe, fresh cherries, along with hints of tomato skin, blueberries, and leafy tobacco. Medium-bodied and fresh, having brightness to the berry and river rock notes. Drink within a couple of years. Mostly Garnacha. About $19.

-  April 29, 2024

Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (Sonoma County). Very clear and bright in the glass, with effusive scents of gooseberries, pomelo, lime peel, freshly mown lawn, and green pears. Zippy and very crisp in the mouth, tasting like lime Life Savers, ripe mango, tangerines, and hints of passion fruit. Stays vibrant through the moderate finish. Fun! Drink now. About $24.

Silverado Sauvignon Blanc Miller Ranch 2022 (Yountville). From estate grown fruit, this offers some chalky mineral notes to go with almost shy scents of white grapefruit, chopped herbs, lemongrass, and lime zest. The palate is more generous, with impressive intensity on the attack, like pure citrus oil and green pears, then moving toward notions of tropical fruit and some grassy/ripe bell pepper notes, staying fresh and engergetic. An orange peel note note on the finish. Thoughtful. Has laser-like focus. Drink within a couple of years. About $25.

-  April 24, 2024

Benanti Etna Bianco 2022. The minerality dial is set to 11 on this one, smelling like crushed up gravel or a quarry site, mixed with pure lemon oil and green herbs. Bright and fresh in the mouth, having notions of pleasantly bitter herbs, green pear, citrus peel, and tons of chalky minerality. 100% Carricante. Drink within a few years. About $33.

-  April 16, 2024

Kavaklidere Çankaya 2022 (Central Anatolia). Made from 35% Narince, 35% Emir, and 30% Sultana grapes, this shows a clear, pale straw color, with aromas of grass, lime peel, lemon balm, and green pears. Fresh, with lots of herbal and citrus flavors, finishing with some pleasant bitterness, minerality, and mouthwatering acidity. Drink now. About $29.

-  April 14, 2024

Emilio Lustau Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda Papirusa Non-Vintage. Shows fantastic intensity on the nose, with tons of saline, tangy energy and nutty/citrus scents, like almonds and lemon peel. Clean, dry, and bright in the mouth, with a chalky sensation to go with notions of fresh green herbs, chamomile tea, and sea salt, ending with energy and focus. Drink now. About $20.

-  April 10, 2024

Château de Rouanne Vinsobres 2019. Made from 50% Grenache plus 40% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre, this offers scents of smoldering campfire, licorice, coffee, blackberries, cherry preserves, and chestnuts. Intriguing. Draws you in. Medium-bodied and fresh, but dark in profile, with black pepper and dried herb flavors that follow an impressive attack of concentrated black/blue fruit. Excellent value. Drink within 8 years. About $26.

-  April 2, 2024

Rocca Del Principe Fiano di Avellino 2021. Shows remarkable purity and minerality on the nose, with lots of saline energy, backed by notions of white peach and lemon rind. Medium-bodied and bright, but with impressive concentration of citrus and green pear flavors that are pure, lively, and surprisingly long. Ends with a touch of green herbs. Drink within a couple of years. About $27.

-  March 20, 2024

Robert Craig Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (Howell Mountain). Made from grapes grown at nearly 2,300 feet on rocky volcanic soils, this offers a dense ruby color, with soaring scents of smoldering fire, black pepper, cassis, underbrush, blackberries, and pen ink, having fantastic intensity. Stunning on the palate, with an attack that features a spike of dark fruit, before turning toward plums and cherries, then leather, then espresso on the finish, where the rich tannins hold on for a long count. Full-bodied, but not heavy, with supportive acids. Outstanding now, but this isn't heading downhill anytime soon. Made from 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petite Verdot. About $100.

-  March 16, 2024

Frei Gigante Branco 2018. (Pico) Made from 80% Arinto dos Açores, 15% Verdelho, and 5% Terrantez do Pico, this overflows with astonishing levels of minerality and verve. Like white citrus, spring flowers, salty sea air, and crushed rocks, paired with zippy acidity and purity to spare. Beautiful and fresh, even at the 5 year mark. Drink within a few years. About $27.

-  March 12, 2024

K Vintners Syrah The Beautiful Powerline Vineyard 2018 (Walla Walla Valley). Estate-grown, and containing 3% Viognier, this is inky dark in color, with complex, gorgeous scents of blackberries, blueberries, smoldering fire, white flowers, singed herbs, freshly brewed coffee, peppercorns, and black tea. Full-bodied, with with admirable freshness and fantastic intensity, it impresses for the peppery qualities on top of dark fruit and espresso flavors. Long, with polished, but evident tannins, moving toward some green tobacco notes on the finish. 100% whole cluster fermentation. Drink now through 2032. About $58.

-  March 3, 2024

Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco 2022. Like lemon oil on the nose, plus notions of crushed rocks, white flowers, sea salt, and white nectarine. Lots of energy, with with fantastic, mouthwatering acidity that drives the almond, yellow apple, and orange peel flavors along, ending with plenty of minerality. Drink within a couple of years. About $22.

-  February 25, 2024

Clos Fornelli La Robe d'Ange Blanc 2022 (Corse). Made from Vermentinu, this offers plenty of crushed shell scents, along with citrus peel, green pear, and salty sea air. Very fresh and vibrant in the mouth, with more of that saline note, then chopped fresh herbs and lemon oil. Enjoyable for all the racy acidity. Drink within a couple of years. About $20.

-  February 20, 2024

Bodega Numanthia Termes 2019 (Toro). Smoldering campfire scents on top of very dark berries, menthol, coffee, licorice, black cherries, and dark soil. Full-bodied, with impressive intensity and presence, and no shortage of dark fruit flavors, plus espresso, anise, and bitter chocolate. Shows fine tannins and enough acidity to hold it all together. Fantastic for the price. It's 15.5%, so take it slow. Drink now through 2030.

-  February 3, 2024

Schramsberg Brut Mirabelle 31st Bottling Non-Vintage (North Coast). Made from 68% Chardonnay and 32% Pinot Noir, this has some hints of dust on the nose, but then moves toward lemon rind, green apples, and tangerine. Those citrus qualities also appear on the palate, showing more like orange marmalade, plus some pleasant gravel notes and honey. Very enjoyable, refined, and a great value. Drink within a few years. About $26.

-  January 25, 2024

Umani Ronchi Pecorino Vellodoro 2022 (Terre di Chieti). Very fresh and vibrant on the nose, having notions of green herbs, green pear, lemon zest, and river rock. That rocky/mineral note continues on the palate, along with hints of lime juice, almonds, and more freshly chopped herbs. Very energetic. Would be great with some fried calamari. Excellent value. Drink now. About $17.

-  January 22, 2024

Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi 2017. Dark, inky and intense nose, suggesting black pepper, licorice, road tar, violets, and black plums. Give this some air, because it packs in a whole lot of tannin, with a palate that's just as dark and intense as the nose, featuring flavors of iodine, blackberries, and smodering fire. Benefits from some freshness on the finish. Fine to open now, but this isn't going downhill anytime soon. About $50.

-  January 18, 2024 

Fattoria le Pupille Poggio Valente 2018 (Toscana). Has some savory/earthy scents, like soy sauce, forest floor, and dark mushrooms, but also blackberries, cherries, tobacco, and spice drawer. Full-bodied, but not heavy, having real refinement and presence. It's dark in profile, with a meaty iron quality beneath the black fruit and coffee flavors. Long and impressive. 100% Sangiovese. Ready now, but this isn't going to age quickly, so there's no hurry. About $50.

-  January 15, 2024

Venica & Venica Pinot Grigio Jesera 2022 (Collio). A Pinot Grigio that's the real deal, not at all like so many insipid versions on shelves, this throws off a pale copper color, with expressive scents of stone fruit, lemon peel, and river rocks. Has moderate body, along with vibrant acids that supports concentrated orange/tangerine, fresh herb, and peach flavors. Has a sense of uncommon richness to it. Clearly superior. Drink within a few years. About $27.

-  January 11, 2024

Fournier Père & Fils Sancerre Rosé Les Belles Vignes 2022. Notions of dusty, crushed rocks on the nose, plus raspberries, peaches, and bright cherries, having impressive intensity and focus. Shows purity in the mouth, with a line of electric salinity to go with the red fruit, watermelon, and citrus peel flavors. Has length too, with more minerality through the close. 100% Pinot Noir. Serious rosé. Drink within a couple of years. About $32.

-  January 8, 2024

Château Vieux Maillet 2019 (Pomerol). Composed of 85% Merlot, with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Cabernet Franc, this offers pretty primary scents of ripe raspberries, cherries, and blackberries, but also notions of freshly brewed coffee, spice drawer, and licorice. It's fresh, and very inviting, then in the mouth it has fine, approachable tannins on top of lovely red fruits and iron/graphite notes, plus hints of anise and dried herbs. Showing really well now, but will likely hold for 8 years. About $65.

-  January 2, 2024

A great way to start the new year, with two excellent wines from Portugal, one a white overflowing with minerality, the other an exotic red that pairs really well with barbecue.

Torre de Palma Branco 2020 (Alentejano). Made from 34% Arinto, 33% Alvarinho, and 33% Antão Vaz, this offers a precise line of minerality through the nose, along with notions of freshly chopped herbs, lime peel, and white flowers. Shows lots of energy and verve, with medium body and impressive intensity to the pear, white peach, and lemon oil flavors. Love the purity. Drink within 5 years or so. About $28.

Torre de Palma Basilii 2019 (Alentejano). Mostly medium to deep ruby in color, but throws off a hint of purple too. The nose is youthful and somewhat primary, with scents prunes, black raspberries, ink, licorice, cherry cola, and dark spices. Ripe in the mouth, but not overly so, and has solid freshness to go with the both red and dark berry flavors, finishing with an intriguing mocha and spice note. Tannins are not high, but this could hold up for about 6 years. Very interesting, and great with some barbecue. Made from equal parts Tinta Miúda, Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez, and Touriga Nacional. About $30.

-  December 30, 2023

Here are our top ten favorite wine recommendations of 2023, chosen for pure quality and value, plus a few honorable mentions that almost made the list:

    #1 Résonance Pinot Noir 2021 (Willamette Valley).

    #2 Jean Laurent Champagne Brut Blanc de Noirs Non-Vintage.

    #3 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2013 (Napa Valley).

    #4 Le Chai Duchet Viré-Clessé Quintessence Clos du Virolis 2020.

    #5 Château Montrose 2000 (St. Estephe).

    #6 Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2013.

    #7 Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon Wight Vineyard 2017 (St. Helena).

    #8 Fèlsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia 2015.

    #9 Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon Viré-Clessé 2020.

    #10 Ridge Geyserville 2017 (Sonoma County).

Honorable mentions:

    Robert Craig Affinity 2013 (Napa Valley). 

    Philipponnat Champagne Brut Royale Réserve Non-Vintage. 

    Domaine Diochon Moulin-à-Vent Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2020.

    Isabelle et Pierre Clement Menetou-Salon 2022. 

    Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (Mount Veeder). 


-  December 26, 2023

Lackner Tinnacher Sauvignon Blanc Gamlitz 2020 (Südsteiermark). Very bright and fresh nose, featuring notions of freshly cut grass, sea salt, river rocks, and lemon peel. Lots of purity and focus. The palate is vibrant, with citrus flavors that turn toward lemongrass and darker spice or roasted hazelnut notes through the finish. Drink now. About $22.

-  December 20, 2023

Luis Pato Bical Vinha Formal 2021 (Bairrada). Shows elegance and precision on the nose, suggesting lemon verbena, river rocks, and green pears. Perhaps a bit shy, but it's the minerality that keeps you interested; then the palate is medium-bodied and fresh, with more of that pear note, plus assorted citrus peel flavors. Excellent purity. Vibrant. Drink within a couple of years. About $30.

-  December 18, 2023

Celler Cecilio Black Slate Gratallops 2020 (Priorat). Like a smoldering campfire on the nose, with both hints of burning wood and the meat you cooked the night before. Then there are licorice and black cherries notes in the backround, plus notions of crushed rocks. Impressive intensity in the mouth, but not heavy, this saturates the palate with a spectrum of red, black, and blue fruit, but remains agile with solid acidity and a sense of place. Has some tannin to resolve, and feels young, but is very rewarding, and finishes with a anise note. Outstanding value. About $22.

-  December 13, 2023

Bruno Giacosa Barbera d'Alba 2020. Shows freshness, like bright cherries, but is also autumnal, like scents of fall leaves, mushrooms, and forest floor. Cranberries on the palate, plus red licorice and grilled red meat flavors. Lovely, refined texture, and clearly well-made, with purity and bright acidity. Ends with some singed herb notes. Drink now through 2029. About $40.

-  December 10, 2023

Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (Mount Veeder). Tasted at the ten-year-old mark, this still appears youthful in color, with complex scents of cassis, black cherries, smoldering campfire, vanilla, freshly brewed coffee, and dark tobacco. Shows purity and intensity. Everything is well-integrated and seamless, having shed some of its baby fat and tannin. Plums, cedar, black cherry, and casis flavors, then licorice and vanilla on the long finish. Beautiful texture. Will easily keep for another 8 years. About $65.

-  December 4, 2023

Résonance Pinot Noir 2021 (Willamette Valley). Effusive, captivating nose, featuring notes of cherries, pipe tobacco, dried orange peel, cranberries, and anise. Medium-bodied and pure, having plenty of primary fruit and concentration (cherries, blueberries, blackberries), it's also very focused, with delicious acidity, and darker notes, similar to soy sauce or shitake mushrooms. It's outstanding now, but would be fascinating to taste in a few years. About $45.

-  December 2, 2023

Palmer & Co. Champagne Brut Réserve Non-Vintage. A focused and precise bottle, offering notions of tangerine peel, white flowers, almonds, ginger, cookie dough, and subtle spice scents. Very bright in the mouth, leaning toward green apple and lemon flavors that show good concentration and length, this would be better as an apéritif or with salty snacks than with a main course. Turns more yeasty with time in the glass. This one was disgorged in November 2020, and made from 51% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir, and 24% Meunier. About $40.

-  November 29, 2023

Isabelle et Pierre Clement Menetou-Salon 2022. Organically farmed on clay and Kimmeridgian limestone soils, this is clear and bright in the glass, with saline/salty sea air scents, along with notions of limes, green pears, grapefruit, and hints of kiwi. Hints at tropical fruit in the mouth, like subtle passion fruit and guava, but is also zippy with acidity and crushed rocks, ending with more lime notes. Really enjoyable. Drink now. About $25.

-  November 27, 2023

Pacheca Touriga Nacional Grande Reserva 2019 (Douro). There's a lifted balsamic note on the nose, giving it some energy, but mostly its got notions of dark plums, black cherries, tobacco, roasted coffee beans, and milk chocolate. Powerful and intense in the mouth, where an iron-like undercurrent flows between flavors of dark, wild berries, espresso, and burning embers. Structured, but approachable now with decanting, or give it a couple of years to calm down. Impressive. About $40.

-  November 26, 2023

Raoul Gautherin Chablis 2022. A hint of green color, with a clear, precise nose of white peach, river rocks, tangerines, white flowers, and pears.  Medium-bodied and very fresh, having solid crushed rock notes to go with the lemon and apple flavors. Modest in scope, but vibrant and food-friendly, gaining volume as it warms up. Drink within a couple of years. About $28.

-  November 22, 2023

Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2013. A ten-year-old wine showing an amber halo at the rim. The nose is just gorgeous, like one could just keep sniffing it and be satisfied without even actually tasting it. Has classic, beautiful scents of red roses, tar, cherries, and anise, plus brown sugar, black walnuts, and dried orange peel. Like potpourri in the mouth, with a mix of dried fruit, dark spices, and cedar flavors. Hints of leather and blueberries. Really pretty, but with plenty of tannin left. This is not at all tired, and could live for another 10 years. About $50.

-  November 20, 2023

Ronchi di Manzano Friulano 2021 (Friuli Colli Orientali). Minerality on the nose, plus lemons, chives, green pear, and orange peel. More generous and ripe on the palate, having impressive volume to the yellow apple and ripe citrus flavors. Herbs on the finish, with plenty of acidity. Really well-done. Drink now. About $25.

-  November 16, 2023

Domaine Michel Thibaut Chardonnay 2022 (Côtes de Jura). Like the pure essence of lemons on the nose, this shows striking intensity, including notions of river rock, apples, orange peel, and white flowers. Tons of minerality on the palate, plus zippy acids and green herb notes to go with the citrus flavors. Drink within a couple of years. About $26.

-  November 9, 2023

Taboadella Encruzado Reserva 2021 (Dão). Very bright and clear in the glass, showing precision on the nose, suggesting crushed rocks, citrus peel, and clover. That minerality weaves its way throughout the palate, with electric acidity and a salty air note among the lemon and green pear flavors, ending with a pleasant bitterness. Would be great with some raw oysters. Drink within a couple of years. About $25.

-  November 7, 2023

Domaine Pierre Martin Sancerre Chavignol 2022. Starts off as very herbal, like parsley and chives, then as it warms up it reveals scents of green guava, tangerine, bell peppers, lemongrass, and wet stone. In the mouth, it's loaded with minerality and tilits toward on the lean side, but not without green herb and lime flavors. Very zippy. Drink within a couple of years. About $35.

-  November 6, 2023

Finca Villacreces Pruno 2019 (Ribera del Duero). Made from 90% Tempranillo and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this offers a very impressive, concentrated nose, featuring scents of red plums, cherries, pine forest, vanilla, and hints of camp smoke. Shows purity and focus in the mouth, with fine tannins and a moderate to long finish, where there's a sense of lift to go with red and blue fruit notes. Tasty, and a great value. Drink within 6 years. About $20.

-  November 3, 2023

Quinta da Alorna Arinto 2020 (Tejo). Pale yellow in color, with a bright nose, suggesting lemon oil, crushed rocks, parsley, tangerine, and a hint of wax. Shows freshness in the mouth, with moderate intensity but excellent purity, having more of that crushed rock note on top of citrus and chamomile flavors. Drink now, or let it evolve if you like more of that waxy note. About $15.

Quinta da Alorna Touriga Nacional/Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2017 (Tejo). The color is medium to deep ruby, with aromas dominated by plums and leafy tobacco, then notions of black cherries, cassis, and licorice. Holds some stout tannins surrounding very dark fruit, charcoal, and espresso flavors. Give this some air. About $22.

-  October 30, 2023

Domaine Arnoux Savigny-lès-Beaune 2020. Offers surprisingly intense scents of black cherries, cola, freshly brewed coffee, plums, and dark tobacco, but with good freshness and vibrancy. Medium-bodied, with a dusty/rocky note beneath impressive red and black fruit flavors, ending focused and long. Drink now through 2031. About $40.

-  October 29, 2023

Trefethen Chardonnay 2021 (Oak Knoll District). This Chardonnay shows the brighter, cool climate side of Napa Valley Chardonnay, showing vibrant acids instead of heavy, buttery notes and tons of oak. Has scents and flavors of green apples, white peach, river rock, green pear, and ripe lime juice. Bright, elegant, and focused. Estate grown, produced, and bottled. Drink within a few years. About $28.

-  October 23, 2023

Domaine de la Côte de Berne Beaujolais Blanc 2021. Fresh, vibrant nose, offering pretty scents of white flowers, lemon curd, wet rocks, and ripe green pears. Lovely, round texture that's supported by generous acids allied with stone fruit and citrus flavors, showing surprising intensity. Chopped fresh herbs on the moderate finish. Drink now. About $20.

-  October 15, 2023

Bodegas Mas Alta Cirerets 2020 (Priorat). Made from  60% Garnacha and 40% Cariñena, this delivers an intriguing rocky, smoky nose, with notions of wild berries, leather, and coffee, then incense. Expertly balanced, with both intensity and elegance, it has fantastic concentration, but also solid acids and purity of dark fruit flavors, turning toward licorice and burning charcoal. Ends long, with impressive density of flavor. Outstanding now, but might be better in a year or two. About $34.

-  October 13, 2023

Ciavolich Pecorino Aries 2021 (Colline Pescaresi). Pale yellow in color, with a touch of wax on the nose, along with yellow apples, freshly chopped herbs, and lemon peel. Starts off in the mouth with hints of white mushrooms, then turns to citrus, pear, and plenty of herbaceousness. Solid acidity. Some minerality on the moderate finish. Drink now. About $20.

La Valentina Pecorino 2022 (Colline Pescaresi). Made from certified organic grapes, this is pale straw in color, having scents of lime juice, river rock, and fresh herbs. Very fresh and energetic, though not particularly complex, having driving acidity and clean, ripe citrus flavors, plus hints of minerality. Enjoyable. Drink now. About $17.

-  October 9, 2023

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (St. Helena). There's a cocoa powder element on the nose, on top of effusive primary fruit, like cassis, black cherry, and plum, then some freshly brewed coffee, vanilla, and anise. Shows purity and intensity. Full-bodied and rich, with a stunning attack of ripe blackberries and blueberries, turning more savory as it moves along the palate, suggesting crushed rocks, dark tobacco, leather, and cracked pepper. Delicious, and very long. Oustanding now, but will last for at least 10 more years. About $60.

-  October 8, 2023

Château Pégau Côtes du Rhône Cuvée Lône 2021. The nose is somewhat waxy, but also has notions of peach, ripe pear, orange rind, and dark soil. Brighter on the palate, with both supportive acidity and rocky minerality, plus flavors of lemons and fennel. Not a simple wine, this has solid texture and presence. Made from 40% Clairette, 30% Bourboulenc, 20% Grenache Blanc and 10% Ugni Blanc. Drink within a couple of years. About $20.

-  October 6, 2023

Thierry Triolet Champagne Brut Grande Réserve Non-Vintage. Straw in color, with scents of active bread dough, white peaches, white flowers, lemon peel, ginger, and graham cracker. Tastes like you just bit into a golden delicious apple, having intensity of fruit allied with plenty of acidity and fine bubbles. Lingers with orange and subtle spice notes through the finish. Excellent. Drink within a few years. About $45.

-  October 3, 2023

Pateiro Treixadura Saramusa 2021 (Ribeiro). Offers scents of crushed rock on the nose, plus notions of lemon peel, freshly chopped herbs, and sea salt. Medium-bodied but light on its feet, with plenty of energy and freshness, having more of that saline note on the palate, along with lemon, pear, and grass notes. Has suprising length. Would be great with some grilled whole fish. About $20.

-  September 23, 2023

Izadi Rioja Reserva 2018. Vanilla and freshly brewed coffee scents are evident underneath dark plum, cherry, mocha, and blackberry notes. Shows freshness. Medium to full-bodied, layered and well-balanced, starting off with dense red and black fruit flavors that are forward and plush, but turns more savory and reserved toward the finish, with notions of black pepper, anise, and singed herbs. Fine but youthful tannins. Great now, but will last for 8 years. Lots of value here. About $20.

-  September 20, 2023

Zafeirakis Assyrtiko 2022 (Tyrnavos). It's a little shy on the nose, but what its got is really great, with vibrant, pretty river rock scents, plus hints of flowers and lemon. The palate is more generous, having flavors of nectarine and assorted citrus, ending with lots of minerality. Zippy acidity. Would be great with some fried seafood. Drink within a couple of years. About $25.

-  September 18, 2023

D. Graça Viosinho Reserva 2021 (Douro). Love the minerality on the nose. It's like crushed up gravel and sea shells on top of bright lemon and white peach scents, plus notions of fresh thyme. Fresh and vibrant in the mouth, this is very energetic, with surprising intensity on the mid-palate and focused citrus flavors. Ends with more minerality. Would be great with some oysters. Drink within a couple of years. About $20.

-  September 17, 2023

Le Chai Duchet Mâcon Blanc 2022. Shows precision and focus on the nose, like the essence of lime zest, green pear, and nectarine. There are some spring flowers in there too, making it very inviting. Impressive purity on the attack, and though it is not super-complex, it’s very enjoyable for the balance of zippy acids combined with almost juicy stone fruit and citrus flavors that are longer on the finish than one might expect at this price. Some wet limestone hints emerge later. Value! Drink within a couple of years. About $18.

-  September 12, 2023

Karatta Sparkling Shiraz/Cabernet Griffin Non-Vintage (Robe). From Australia's Limestone Coast, and made using the Charmat method, this is opaque purple in color, with some dusty scents on top of blackberry, black cherry, licorice, and subtle black pepper notes. Leans toward the dry side of the scale, though not completely so, with noticible tannins, but with plenty of dark, wild berry and smoke flavors, then a spicy finish. Really interesting. Drink now. About $20.

-  September 11, 2023

St. Michael-Eppan Lagrein 2020 (Alto Adige). There's an earthy note here, like scents of wild mushrooms and fall leaves, but not in a dirty or dusty way, with energetic red berry qualities too, plus a hint of mint. Medium-bodied and enjoyable for the combination of red and black licorice flavors that are backed by moderate to low tannins and a line of fresh acids. Ends with some dried herb notes. Good with a bit of chill on it, this is very versitile with food. Drink within 5 years. About $16.

-  September 8, 2023

Salt River Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (Stellenbosch). Shows brightness, with scents like lime zest, green mango, ripe bell peppers, tangerines, and hints of crushed rocks or salty sea air. That saline quality continues on the palate, with a zap of electricity to go with mostly citrus and green pear flavors. Slightly lean, but admirable for the energy it provides, and features some pleasant green herb notes on the finish. Drink within a couple years. About $19.

Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (Marlborough). Hints of hazelnuts or roasted fresh corn on the nose, along with notions of passion fruit, limes, jalapeno pepper, and ripe mango. Solid acidity holds up lots of tropical fruit flavors, with caressing, rich texture and plenty of length. Impressive intensity. Has a slight hint of smoke on the finish too. Drink within a couple of years. About $22.

-  September 6, 2023

Duckhorn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Napa Valley). Effusive nose that sings with both savory spice notes as well as dark fruit, like black pepper, cassis, black cherries, freshly brewed coffee, plum, and hints of tobacco. Love the texture of this, having full body and waves of dark fruit and anise, with very fine tannins and supportive acids. Ends long and reminiscent of a steak on a campfire. Ready now, or keep for at least 10 years. About $72.

-  September 4, 2023

Venica & Venica Friulano Primarûl 2021 (Collio). Pale yellow in color, with slightly shy scents of green pear, honeydew melon, green apple, and river rock. More expressive in the mouth, with more of those pear and melon qualities, plus apple pie on the finish. Feels more round compared to the 2020, with solid (but lower) acidity and a pleasing texture. Drink within a couple years. About $25.

-  September 1, 2023

Rainoldi Valtellina Superiore Grumello Riserva 2016. This is an outstanding Nebbiolo from Lombardy, showing medium garnet in color and offering some herbaceous notes, like basil and pipe tobacco, plus red flowers, freshly paved road, dried citrus rind, dark spices, and hints of cherry. Very pretty nose, but the palate is flat out elegant, with a seamless flow to it and caressing texture, but not without fine tannins. Plum, red berry, dark spice flavors, then waves of coffee on the long finish. Great stuff. Drink now through 2030. About $53.

-  August 29, 2023

Yohan Lardy Gamay Poppy 2021 (Vin de France). Made from sixty year-old Gamay vines planted at 100 meters elevation, this offers very Beaujolais scents of bright red berries (cranberry/raspberry), fresh orange peel, flowers, and hints of white pepper. Bright acidity lifts up flavors of wet soil, pine leaves, and tons of crushed fresh berries. Soft, but not boring. Very enjoyable with a slight chill, especially during the last weeks of summer. Drink within a few years. About $18.

-  August 21, 2023

Corbon Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Non-Vintage. Lightly golden in color and having scents of chalk, lemon zest, ginger, whole grain bread, and hints of green apple. Not the most complex bubbly, but has very good intensity in the mouth, along with precision and minerality, leaning toward bright citrus flavors. This one was disgorged in June 2022, and feels like it could use a year to settle down. About $50.

-  August 8, 2023

Viticola Sileo Sileo 2020 (Montsant). Just a touch musty on the nose, hinting at a dusty animal, but with air comes notions of blueberry, blackberry, freshly brewed coffee, hot iron pan, and singed fresh herbs. Shows very good intensity of flavor, with more of that iron quality on the palate, along with black fruits and iodine, ending with hints of crushed rocks. Moderate tannins. Great value here. Made from 90% Grenache and 10% Carignan, organically farmed. Drink within 6 years. About $20.

-  August 3, 2023

Louis Michel & Fils Chablis 2021. Just a bare hint of green in color, with an elegant, focused nose of green pears, fresh herbs, river rocks, and white peach. Medium bodied and vibrant in the mouth, showing excellent minerality on top of stone fruit and lemon flavors, this wins you over with its elegance and verve. Has that hint of sea salt on the long finish. Outstanding village level Chablis. Drink within a couple years. About $45.

-  July 31, 2023

Louis Latour Gevrey Chambertin 2016. Shows freshness and energy on the nose, with complex notions of fresh cherries, dried orange peel, brown sugar, spice drawer, pomegranate, fall leaves, and wet soil. Very refined and elegant, having medium body, with impressive density and focus. Some fading tannins through the long finish, where dark berry and coffee flavors are dominant. Ready now, or hold for another 8 years. About $100.

-  July 27, 2023

Prá Soave Classico Otto 2021. Super-fresh and vibrant nose, suggesting crushed rocks, lemons, and white flower notes that are much more intense than your average Soave. It's very alive with acidity across the palate, offering white peach, pear, citrus, and pineapple flavors, plus an undertone of river rock. Would be awesome with some fried seafood. Drink with a couple years. About $20.

-  July 24, 2023

Rapaura Springs Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2022 (Marlborough). Just a hint of color, with an intense nose leaning toward tropical fruit, such as mango, passion fruit, and lime zest, but also chalk dust, white mushroom, and an electric saline quality. Has volume and presence in the mouth, starting with tropical fruit flavors, moving toward citrus and a crushed oyster shell/salty notes through the long finish. Very impressive, especially for this price, and clearly superior to your average Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Drink within a couple of years. About $20.

Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (Marlborough). Very pale straw color, with not shy scents of gooseberries, grass, white grapefruit, and a hint of green bell pepper and passion fruit. Bright, and dominated by all manner of citrus flavors, like oranges, lime juice, and tangerines. Very good intensity. Tasty. Towards the finish, some lychee notes emerge. Drink within a couple of years. About $19.

-  July 21, 2023

Fèlsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia 2015. Stunning nose, offering plenty of vibrant red/blue fruit, plus fresh flowers, orange peel, crushed rocks, freshly brewed coffee, vanilla, and subtle dark spices. Lands with both power and elegance in the mouth, with fine, lightly dusty tannins and focused dark fruit flavors. The density is very impressive, without being heavy, and has a burst of acidity through the long finish. Wonderful. Drink now through 2035. About $58.

-  July 18, 2023

Domaine Diochon Moulin-à-Vent Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2020. Relatively dense in color. Both youthful/grapey and dark/blackberry scents at the same time, plus leafy/woodsy notes, spices, and wild berry. Absolutely delicious, with great presence and acidity, starting with brighter cherry, cranberry, and pomegranate fruit, then moving to darker notes of dates and plum, finishing fresh and long. Almost full-bodied, this is no simple Beaujolais. Outstanding. Drink now through 2029. About $30.

-  July 10, 2023

Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon Viré-Clessé 2020. Pale yellow in color, with beautiful, precise scents of freshly cut herbs, white peach, green pear, citrus oil, and yellow apples, then a touch of river rock. Medium-bodied, with fantastic intensity and focus, having great energy to go with the citrus and tart apple flavors, but it's the texture that wins you over, showing refinement and class. Love it. Drink within 5 years. About $36.

-  July 5, 2023

St. Michael-Eppan Sauvignon Blanc Fallwind 2021 (Alto Adige). Just a bare hint of yellow in color, with plenty of tropical fruit scents, like green mango, passion fruit, ripe oranges, lychee, and a touch of fresh herbs. With plenty of acidity, but also some richness, the palate is similar to the nose, with more of those tropical fruit notes and impressive intensity. Some bell pepper and green herb notes appear on the finish. Great value. Drink within a couple years. About $18.

Honig Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (52% Napa Valley, 48% Lake County). Very clear in the glass, this borders on lean, with subtle scents of white peach, apricot, river rock, lemon, and white flowers. Pretty. Gains volume with air and temperature, hinting a some tropical fruit, but remains focused, having some saline notes. Somewhat linear, with zippy acidity. Lovely. Drink within a couple years. About $23.

-  July 4, 2023

Valdibella Acamante 2018 (Sicilia). Made from 100% Perricone, this exhibits some dusty scents on top of bright cherry, green tobacco, anise, and orange peel notes. Medium-bodied and very fresh, with lots of acidity and green, almost weedy flavors initially, then darker fruit and more savory notes emerge with air, like blackberries and earthy mushrroms. Give it a chill in the fridge. Certified organic. Best to drink within 5 years. About $18.

-  July 2, 2023

Cantina del Taburno Falanghina del Sannio Dama 2021. Bright straw in color, this overflows with minerality, both on the nose and palate, like fine pebbles, along with notions of lemons, parsley, grass, and a saline quality. Shows purity and focus. Pretty, with a fine powdery texture. Drink now. About $16.

-  June 30, 2023

Presqu'ile Syrah 2020 (Santa Barbara County). This comes off as very northern Rhône in style, with tons of freshly ground pepper scents, plus beef blood, wild berry, iron, cedar, underbrush, bacon fat, blackberry, and hints of smoldering campfire. The attack starts with dense black fruit, then moves to smoke, bacon, coffee, black licorice, and dark mushrooms. More black pepper on the finish. Complex. Medium-bodied with excellent intensity. Outstanding value. Drink now through 2030. About $25.

-  June 27, 2023

Philipponnat Champagne Brut Royale Réserve Non-Vintage. Hint of gold in color, with generous scents of red apples, ginger, butterscotch, orange peel, whole wheat dough, and lemon curd. Excellent intensity, especially on the attack, having plenty of red berry notes, moving to citrus, then minerality on the finish. Expert balance. This bottle was disgorged in April 2022, and based on the 2017 vintage. Great now, but will fine for at least three to five years. About $70.

-  June 20, 2023

Van Loveren Pinot Grigio Perlé de Jean 2018 (Western Cape). This delightful South African value sees some skin contact, thus the lightly rosé/apricot color, with aromas of olive brine, raspberries, lemons, cranberries, and a hint of fresh herbs. Very slightly spritzy. Almost medium bodied, having flavors of oranges, red berries, and ginger. Plenty of acidity. Would pair with anything from pulled pork to grilled salmon. Really interesting. Drink now. About $14.

-  June 18, 2023

Château Montrose 2000 (St. Estephe). Both elegant and intense on the nose, reminiscent of crushed wild berries, saddle leather, dark tobacco, forest floor, hot iron pan, cherries, and incense. Full-bodied, ripe, and pure, with plenty of fruit for a wine of this age, along with notes of dark mushroom and roasted coffee, ending long and detailed, where some singed fresh herb flavors show up. Very impressive density of flavor. Ready now, but has the tannins to last at least 15 more years. Outstanding. About $200.

-  June 11, 2023

Il Palazzone Rosso del Palazzone Lot 02/21. Made from Sangiovese grown in Montalciono, from the 2019, 2020, and 2021 vintages, this is essentially a multi-vintage Rosso di Montalcino. Offers elegant scents of red flowers, tart cherries, tobacco leaf, and hints of blueberry and grilled herbs. Medium-bodied, with plenty of freshness to go with the red fruit flavors, anchored by savory notes through the long finish. A really great value! Drink now through 2029. About $22.

-  June 9, 2023

Clos Fornelli Rosé 2022 (Corse). Offers generous, vibrant notes of tangerines, strawberries, blood orange, flowers, and bright cherries, with a hint of bay leaf. Has energy to spare, with a finish that touches on a bit of bitterness to keep it honest. Made from the Sciaccarellu grape. Drink within a year or two. About $18.

-  June 6, 2023

Château Símon Graves Blanc 2020. A delicious white made from approximately half Sauvignon Blanc and half Semillon, featuring aromas of citrus oil, lemon verbena, bell peppers, grass, passion fruit, mango, and a hint of melon. Great acidity and overall energy to match with citrus and tropical fruit flavors, finishing with good intensity. Drink now. About $20.

-  June 4, 2023

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2013 (Napa Valley). Very, very pretty nose, showing poise and elegance, reminiscent of cassis, black cherries, vanilla bean, freshly brewed coffee, plums, forest floor, plus subtle hints of anise and ground dark spices. Flat out gorgeous on in the mouth, this is not at all overdone, with expert balance and integration of acidity and dark fruit, along with savory notes. Shows hints of mint/eucalyptus, then graphite and fine tannins. Seamless. This is the best recent version of this among many fantastic vintages. Drink now, or hold for another 15 years. About $150.

-  May 30, 2023

Château de Saint Cosme Côtes du Rhône Les Deux Albion 2019. The high percentage of Syrah in this really shows (about 50%), with aromas of iodine, seaweed, licorice, black cherries, black pepper, underbrush, ink, and a bare hint of blackberry. Sleek, medium to full-bodied, and with more of that iodine quality on the palate, along with bacon fat, coffee, wild berries. Licorice and pine resin on the finish. Really well-made, with precision and focus. Outstanding now, but will last for another five years. About $30.

-  May 29, 2023

Yohan Lardy Beaujolais-Villages Blanc Les Bruyères 2021. Bright in color, and reminiscent of green apples, green pears, fresh herbs, white peach, celery, and tangerines on the nose. Medium-bodied, very fresh, and zippy. Tastes like cucumber water, lime juice, and stone fruit. Really appealing for its vibrancy. Drink within a few years. About $18.

-  May 24, 2023

La Chapinière Touraine 2020. Exhibits tons of zesty lime juice notes, along with notions of grass, ripe bell peppers, stone fruit, and green pear. Really effusive and enjoyable, with lots of verve and freshness. Shows impressive concentration, staying lively through the finish. A fantastic value in a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. Drink within a few years. About $18.

-  May 22, 2023

G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe 2013. Classic Nebbiolo on the nose, with beautiful scents of red roses, tar, dark tobacco, dark mushrooms, dried orange peel, wet soil, and hints of cherries. Still has plenty of dusty tannin at age 10, but there's some elegance to it also, showing excellent purity and focus. More nuances of red fruit and leafy notes emerge with air, and the acidity makes its presence known on the finish. Will be great for another 10 years. About $40.

-  May 17, 2023

Fournier Menetou-Salon Côtes de Morogues (2021). Pleasingly aromatic, with notions of pea shoots, crushed limestone, white grapefruit, green pear, freshly cut grass, plus hints of tangerine and sea salt. Comes off as darker and more savory in the mouth, with a hint of smoke to go with the citrus flavors. Interesting. Drink within a couple years. About $35.

-  May 10, 2023

Luna Gaia Nerello Mascalese Logistilla 2019 (Terre Siciliane). Made from organic and Demeter certified grapes, this has some brightness on the nose, like tart cherries and hints of fresh greens, then some darker undertones of freshly brewed coffee and spices. Fleshy in the mouth, with an attack of juicy blackberries and blueberries, moving to toasty qualities toward the modest finish, with some fine-grained tannins. Solid acidity keeps everything in check. Drink within 8 years. About $16.

-  May 8, 2023

Belle Pente Pinot Noir 2020 (Willamette Valley). A touch of cola on the nose, but otherwise leafy, dark tobacco, cherries, orange peel, and hibiscus tea. Very alive and vibrant in the mouth, but also having plenty of red berry notes, plus notions of allspice and dark mushrooms. Moderate in length, and impressive balance. Great value here. Drink now through 2030. About $30.

-  May 3, 2023

Le Chai Duchet Viré-Clessé Quintessence Clos du Virolis 2020. Straw yellow in color, with an intense nose of citrus oil, green apples, lemon balm, white peach, and hints of limestone. Very fresh and lively, with a gorgeous texture and impressive purity. The concentraion is outstanding, with lovely citrus and stone fruit flavors, ending with a touch of honey. Love this. Drink within 6 years. About $30.

-  April 30, 2023

Elk Cove Pinot Noir Estate 2020 (Willamette Valley). Like cranberries and bright cherries on the nose, then hints of leafy green tobacco and cola. Features excellent balance, with both ripeness and freshness, and a vibrancy that moves along the palate, ending long. Great texture. The fruit hits upfront, then is replaced by savory notes, staying elegant. Drink now through 2029. About $33.

-  April 27, 2023

Mas d'en Gil Bellmunt 2018 (Priorat). Made from certified organic grapes, this offers a smoke-tinged nose of blue and black fruits, with notions of licorice, freshly brewed coffee, and orange peel. Approachable, but also with a rocky, fine tannin underpinning, and having a dark profile of camp smoke and forest berries. Cool. Drink now through 2031. About $30.

-  April 20, 2023

Broadbent Branco 2020 (Madeirense). A dry, vibrant white from the island of Madeira, this is like salty sea air on the nose, plus notions of white grapefruit, green pear, and wet rocks. Very fresh, and full of minerality, then notions of lemon and orange peel, finishing with that salty note again. Drink now. About $20.

-  April 6, 2023

Jonata Todos 2017 (Ballard Canyon). From the Santa Ynez Valley, and made from 44% Syrah, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petit Sirah, 10% Petit Verdot, 8% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet Franc, this features impressive scents of campfire smoke, dark mushrooms, blackberries, blueberries, freshly brewed coffee, black figs, and ground spices. Full-bodied, but retaining lots of freshness and balance, with a dark, espresso-like palate that opens up to black fruits with air. Has solid, dense tannins on the finish. Powerful, but not overdone. Drink now through 2030. About $60.

-  April 4, 2023

Bodegas Vegamar Huella de Merseguera 2021 (Valencia). Hints of straw, green pear, white peach, and crushed rocks on the nose, plus a saline quality. Modest in scope, but not boring, with enough acidity to keep it going, showing enjoyable lemon and fresh herb flavors. Finishes with a slightly tangy note that would pair with salty food. 100% Merseguera. Drink now. About $17.

-  April 2, 2023

Jean Laurent  Champagne Brut Blanc de Noirs Non-Vintage. Disgorged in December 2021, this version shows more than a touch of gold in color, with a slightly shy nose of active yeast, hazelnuts, lemon peel, and ginger. Perhaps a hint of cranberry. The palate, however, is very expressive, with intense flavors of red apples, lemon bar, butterscotch, and cherries. Fantastic, almost rich texture. Very impressive. 100% Pinot Noir. Drink within a few years. About $60.

-  March 30, 2023

Ciù Ciù Pecorino Merlettaie 2020 (Offida). This white from Marche is certified organic 100% Pecorino, offering scents of lemon oil, white flowers, stone fruit, fresh herbs, and hints of river rock. Very zippy in the mouth, where bare hint of toasted spice weaves through preserved lemon, white peach, and almond notes. Stylish and fresh. Drink now. About $21.

-  March 25, 2023

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon Wight Vineyard 2017 (St. Helena). Effusive nose of camp smoke, cassis, black cherries, melted licorice, graphite, and blackberries. Full-bodied and palate-coating, but for all the richness, it has energy also, with more of those black cherry and cassis notes, plus dark spices and freshly brewed coffee on top of them. Striking purity, and a long, long finish. A beauty. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Ready now, but will certainly last for over a decade. About $80.

-  March 21, 2023

Pedro Parra Vinista 2021 (Itata Valley). Relatively light in color, this is made from 100% dry farmed País, with a nose that leans toward vegetative/herbal/stemmy, like a tomato plant among crushed cherries and pomegranate. A hint of tobacco and bell pepper. Medium-bodied and fresh, showing similar notes that appear on the nose, but with more verve and clarity. Really interesting. Some moderate tannins on the finish. About $17.

-  March 16, 2023

Quinta da Alorna Sauvignon Blanc 2020 (Tejo). Hint of green in color, with a very fresh, tangy nose of passion fruit, guava, lime zest, tangerine, and chopped herbs. Bright and zippy in the mouth, and leaning toward bell pepper notes, but also grapefruit and pea tendrils. Moderate in finish. A natural for a fresh goat cheese. Drink now. About $15.

-  March 15, 2023

Tolaini Valdisanti 2019 (Toscana). Made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this exhibits a penetrating, yet elegant nose, with notions of dark plums, cassis, blackberries, vanilla, freshly brewed coffee, and hints of leather and black pepper. Shows freshness and vibrancy, along with very impressive intensity to the tar and licorice flavors. Medium to full-bodied, with a finish that layers cedar and dark spice on top of the black fruit notes. Ready now, but will last for 10 more years. About $40.

-  March 9, 2023

Izadi Rioja Reserva 2016. Beautifully scented, offering generous notes of black cherries, plums, cola, freshly brewed coffee, licorice, and vanilla. Very nicely done for this price, with solid blue and black fruit flavors, grounded by notions of oak and tobacco, then dark tannins on the finish. Drink within 5 years. About $20.

-  March 5, 2023

Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva Marchesi Antinori 2016. Shows some evolvement, with scents of forest floor, dark tobacco, eucalyptus, anise, orange peel, and hints of bitter cherry. Medium to full-bodied, with a really beautiful, refined texture having fine tannins that support notions of blueberries, black cherries, and dark coffee. Very nicely done. Feels like it's at its peak, should last for at least 5 years. About $45.

-  February 28, 2023

Alberto Orte Vara y Pulgar 2019. (Vino de la Tierra de Cadiz). Made from the Tintilla grape (genetically the same as Graciano) on Albariza soils in Jerez, this has a savory scents (miso, smoke, chalk) on top of blue and red fruits, with solid intensity. Medium-bodied and floral in the mouth, but also has a wild berry quality, plus notions of thyme and black pepper. Unusual. Great with a winter stew. Drink within 5 years. About $24.

-  February 26, 2023

G.B. Burlotto G.B. Burlotto Viridis Sauvignon Blanc 2021 (Langhe). Very clear and pale in color, with an expressive nose of lime peel, passion fruit, honeysuckle, tangerines, green pear, and hints of guava. Shows impressive intensity in the mouth, with waves of citrus and tropical fruit, backed by notions of freshly mown grass, bell pepper, and river rocks, ending with plenty of energy and focus. Drink within a few years. About $21.

-  February 22, 2023

Disznóko Furmint 2021 (Tokaji). A completely dry, fresh Furmint, offering a vibrant nose of white flowers, lemon peel, straw, and pomelo. The palate features really good intensity of green pear, lime, and crushed rock notes, ending with a saline quality. Really interesting. Drink within a few years. About $17.

-  February 18, 2023

Sixto Chardonnay Roza Hills Vineyard 2018 (Washington). A hint of gold in color, followed by some intensity on the nose, like red apples, marshmallows, lime zest, chamomile, lemon curd, chalk, and hints of wood. Medium to full-bodied, with density of flavor and concentration, but tied to very supportive acids. Excellent purity, with an array of citrus flavors, plus stone fruits, hazelnut, and pie crust. The oak shows up on the finish, but doesn't bash you over the head. Not a subtle style, but clearly well-made. Drink within a few years. About $45.

-  February 16, 2023

J. Denuzière Côtes du Rhône Les Sérines 2018. Made from mostly Syrah, this exhibits a spicy, peppery nose, backed by plum and cherry fruit, then an anise and seaweed quality. Medium-bodied and very focused, with solid acidity that anchors dark graphite and espresso flavors. Structured, and not easygoing, this needs some air to fully appreciate. About $19.

-  February 13, 2023

Robert Craig Affinity 2013 (Napa Valley). At 10 years of age, this shows few signs of slowing down, offering very beautiful, harmonious scents of smoldering fire, anise, blackberries, cassis, freshly brewed coffee, wild red berries, and ripe red bell peppers. Has mellowed out some, but still powerful, with intense black and red fruits, buttressed by eucalyptus, mint, and pipe tobacco notes. The texture is luxurious, but with plenty of fine tannins, this is well-integrated and very, very impressive. Made from 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 6% Petite Verdot, 5% Malbec, and 1% Cabernet Franc, this is peaking now, but would last another 10 years. About $75.

-  February 6, 2023

Dubreuil-Fontaine Savigny-les-Beaune Les Vergelesses 2019. Showing beautiful scents of red flowers, raspberries, freshly brewed coffee, pomegranate, orange peel, and hints of spice drawer. Medium-bodied, with a really gorgeous, caressing texture and very fine tannins that support pure red berry flavors, turning more savory and earthy along the long finish, with a slight licorice note. This isn't cheap, but sure is a fantastic value for Premier Cru Burgundy these days. Ready now, but will be great for 10 years. About $50.

-  February 2, 2023

Schödl Brut Blanc de Blancs Non-Vintage (Niederösterreich). Very lively in the glass, with pretty scents of white grapefruit, green apples, lemon peel, brioche, honeysuckle, and hints of biscuit. Focused, with laser-like acidity supporting citrus and chalk flavors, ending with a salty note. Made in the traditional method and riddled by hand, this is composed of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Weissburgunder. Drink within a few years. About $36.

-  January 31, 2023

Tre Monti Doppio Bianco 2020 (Pignoletto DOC). An organically produced Pignoletto frizzante, offering aromas of chamomile, straw, lemon peel, and honey, this is easy to like and a natural with a charcuterie platter. Tastes of stone fruits, poached pear, and apples, with a subtle bead, high acidity, and ends with a lime juice note. Just slightly to the left of completely dry. Drink now. About $15.

Tre Monti Doppio Rosso 2020 (Emilia). A Barbera frizzante made from organic grapes, this is nearly medium ruby in color, with aromas of tart cherries, plums, chocolate milk, and hints of green tobacco. Has noticible tannins around all the subtle bubbles, with flavors that lean toward primary red/purple fruit. Moderately high acidity. Drink now. About $15.

-  January 28, 2023

Duchman Aglianico Oswald Vineyard 2016 (Texas). Perfumed with leather, smoke, mushroom, soy sauce, and dark soil scents, plus a hint of black pepper and wild berries. Shows very good intensity and some stout tannins, with a palate offering notions of cured meats, dark tobacco, dried herbs, and underbrush. Comes off as Old World in style. Medium-bodied. Turns grippy through the finish, where some smoldering ashtray notes emerge. Needs a rich beef braise to tame it, but this is impressive for only $20. Drink within 6 years.

-  January 16, 2023

Abadia Retuerta Selección Especial 2017 (Sardon de Duero). Made from 75% Tempranillo, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Syrah, and 3% Merlot, this is dark in color with a hint of blue, having generous aromas of blackberries, leather, coffee, blueberries, bright cherries, pine needles, and some camp smoke. Shows excellent purity and focus. Lots of dark fruit on the palate, plus savory notions of licorice, dark spices, and red meat. Medium to full-bodied, and very well-balanced and fresh. Drink now through 2028. About $45.

-  January 11, 2023

Domaine Raphaël Sallet Mâcon-Uchizy Les Maranches 2021. Lots of minerality on the nose, like crushed up limestone and river rock, plus notions of white peach, green pear, and fresh herbs. Very clean and fresh. Not complex, but very, very lively and refreshing, with flavors suggesting orange peel and green apples. Good intensity for the price. Drink within a few years. About $16.

-  January 9, 2023

Quinta da Alorna Fernão Pires Reserva das Pedras 2018 (Tejo). There's a hint of wax on the nose, plus notions of vanilla, red apples, and honeysuckle. Shows admirable purity and focus in the mouth, with just a bit of oak on top of orange peel, Asian pear, and warm spice flavors. The acidity drives a decently long finish. Drink within 5 years. About $30.

Quinta da Alorna Castelão Reserva das Pedras 2017 (Tejo). Bright red berry scents are anchored by hints of ground spices and notions of tobacco, showing lift and energy. Turns darker in the mouth, where the fruit is more like blackberries, plus graphite and espresso. Has some solid structure, with tannins that need some air, suggesting that this could last another 10 years or so. Well-made. About $30.

-  January 6, 2023

Benguela Cove Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (Walker Bay). Much better than your basic South African Sauvignon Blanc, showing a flinty undercurrent on the nose to go with scents of green pear, bell pepper, lemon peel, freshly cut grass, and hints of green mango. Alive and zippy in the mouth, where there's a slight smoky quality on top of citrus and fresh herb flavors. Shows good presence. Drink within a couple years. About $19.

-  January 4, 2023

Ridge Geyserville 2017 (Sonoma County). Of all the Ridge bottlings, this one is my favorite, showing fantastic purity and focus in every vintage. This version offers beautiful scents of blueberries, blackberries, vanilla, freshly brewed coffee, and subtle hints of smoke and anise. Has purity to spare. Verging on full-bodied, and having supportive acidity to prop up abundant black/blue fruit flavors plus milk chocolate, but ending savory, like touches of spice drawer. Refined tannins. Made from 68% Zinfandel, 18% Carignane, 12% Petite Sirah and 2% Alicante Bouschet. Outstanding. Drink now through 2035. About $50.

-  January 2, 2023

Suertes del Marqués 7 Fuentes 2018 (Valle de la Orotava). From the island of Tenerife, and composed of mostly Listán Negro, this offers a fresh nose of incense, tart cherries, tomato plant, and green tobacco. Less leafy on the palate, with medium body and a brightness that's more like pomegranate and red berries, turning slightly darker on the finish. Very unusual. Drink within a few years. About $20.

-  December 30, 2022

Here are our top 10 wine recommendations of 2022, chosen for sheer quality and/or value:

    #1  Clos i Terrasses Laurel 2015 (Priorat)

    #2  Dominio del Águila Pícaro del Águila Tinto Viñas Viejas 2017 (Ribera del Duero)

    #3  Fresne Ducret Champagne Brut Les Nouveaux Explorateurs Non-Vintage

    #4  Paolo Scavino Barolo Monvigliero 2012

    #5  Domaine de l'Enclos Chablis 2019

    #6  Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2015 (Napa Valley)

    #7  Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé Non-Vintage

    #8  Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (St. Helena)

    #9  Lisini Brunello di Montalcino 2011

    #10  Goisot Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre 2020

Honorable mentions:

    Pierre Péters Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée de Réserve Grand Cru Non-Vintage   

    Rui Roboredo Madeira Beyra Grande Reserva 2018 (Beira Interior)

    Château Guiraud Bordeaux Blanc Sec Le G 2019

    Domaine de la Charbonnière Châteauneuf du Pape 2019


-  December 25, 2022

Fresne Ducret Champagne Brut Les Nouveaux Explorateurs Non Vintage. Almost golden in color, featuring scents of red apples, crushed chalk, pie spices, Meyer lemons, and hints of honey. Generous in mouthfeel, showing some body, with flavors of ginger, candied orange peel, sea salt, hints of smoke, and more spices on the finish. From Premier Cru vineyards. Exotic. About $45.

-  December 23, 2022

Celler Cal Pla Black Slate Porrera 2019 (Priorat). Love it when the crushed rock scents poke out on a good Priorat such as this. Dark and intense. It's like you're standing next to an active quarry, plus scents of dark cherries, espresso, bitter chocolate, graphite, dried herbs, and notions of smoke. More of that rocky quality in the mouth, this comes off as a bit more austere than other Black Slate versions, but still has admirable purity of red/black fruits and hints of licorice, ending more like a Northern Rhone, with a black pepper and underbrush note. Turns more approachable with air. Drink now through 2020. About $20.

-  December 21, 2022

G.B. Burlotto Verduno Pelaverga 2021. Bright, rather pale ruby color, with a vibrant nose of strawberries, cherries, freshly cracked pepper, and hints of thyme and fennel. Difficult to describe on the palate, since it's kind of unlike anything else, but there's lots of acidity paired with red fruit and more peppery notes. Very fresh, and ending with moderate tannins. Drink within a few years. About $23.

-  December 19, 2022

Adega Cooperativa dos Biscoitos Verdelho Magma 2019 (Biscoitos). From the Azores, this white is loaded with minerality and verve, smelling like lemons and fresh herbs mixed with crushed rocks. Energitic palate. Streamlined. Mostly bright citrus notes. It's not complex, but keeps you coming back for its purity and freshness. Drink now. About $25.

-  December 17, 2022

Paolo Scavino Barolo Monvigliero 2012. Shows a hint of brick color, followed by scents of both fresh and dried red roses, dark ground spices -- perhaps cinnamon and cloves -- then some earthy mushroom notes and freshly brewed coffee. Really beautiful on the palate, featuring expert balance, medium body, impressive red fruits, and just the right amount of acidity. The tannins are certainly still up there, but do not club you over the head, and the finish is long and intriguing. Really wonderful. Drink now through 2030. About $85.

-  December 15, 2022

Dominio del Águila Pícaro del Águila Tinto Viñas Viejas 2017 (Ribera del Duero). Smoke and dust dominate on the nose initially, then with air comes notions of black figs, mixed berry preserves, and hints of chocolate. Full-bodied, with very impressive density of flavor, it's like graphite-infused dark fruits allied with serious tannins. Great tension through the finish, where some red berry and blueberry flavors peak out among the espresso and licorice notes. A substantial Ribera del Duero. Ready now, but structured to last. About $35.

-  December 12, 2022

Château de Villeneuve Saumur 2021. There's a hint of smoke on the nose to go with notions of river rock, lemon rind, golden apples, ripe pear, and peach skin. Medium-bodied and fresh, delivering mouthwatering acidity integrated with orange and stone fruit flavors, staying clean and zippy. Nicely done. Drink within a couple years. About $18.

-  November 30, 2022

Domaine Michel Barraud Mâcon-Villages 2020. Hint of green color, followed by a nose of lime juice, wet rocks, white peach, and green pear, having impressive intensity. A generous blast of citrus flavors on the attack, moving toward stone fruit later, then notions of fresh herbs, this has surprising concentraion and admirable purity, staying energetic through the moderate finish. Outstanding value. Drink within a couple years. About $19.

Xanadu Chardonnay Exmoor 2018 (Margaret River). Straw in color, with interesting citrus oil scents that beat out hints of minerality and baked apple pie. Medium-bodied, with some hazelnut and marshmallow notes to go with the apple, lemon, and orange peel flavors. Solid acidity. Turns a touch spicy on the finish. For those who like a bit of oak. Drink now. About $17.

-  November 28, 2022

Château Labégorce 2016 (Margaux). Love the nose here. Smells like a hot cast iron pan, along with blackberries, barbecue smoke (along with the meat), violets, black cherries, cassis, smoked paprika, and a little bit of freshly brewed coffee. Tannic, but not oppressive, with notions of fig and dark berries on the palate, then some leafy tobacco on the finish. Medium-bodied, with very good intensity, and fresh. Give this some air if you want to drink it now. About $45.

-  November 27, 2022

Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs 2017 (North Coast). Bright, vibrant color, with a fine bead, this is very, very elegant, showing excellent purity to the lemon, breadstick, honey, candied orange peel, saltine, and ginger scents. Very focused and precise. Super-energetic, and also long. Love it. Drink now through 2027. About $36.

-  November 23, 2022

Cantina Puiatti Sauvignon Blanc 2021 (Friuli). Sees no oak, so there's a focus on purity and vibrancy here, with generous aromas of passion fruit, lime zest, guava, tangerines, and freshly chopped parsley. Medium-bodied and zippy on the palate, where some minerality shows up to go with the ripe citrus and stone fruit flavors, ending with a tropical note. Very enjoyable. Drink now. About $22.

-  November 21, 2022

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (Knights Valley). Show both savory and focused fruit scents, like dark coffee and ground spices, then black cherries and blackberries. A hint of eucalyptus too, appearing fresh and lively. As usual for this bottling, the palate is all about pure cassis and black cherry flavors, turning to plums and hints of tobacco and vanilla. Medium-bodied. With refined tannins and solid acidity that carry a moderately long finish, this is always an excellent value. Feels more pure, fresher than the very good 2018. Drink within 10 years. About $30.

-  November 16, 2022

Rui Roboredo Madeira Beyra Grande Reserva 2018 (Beira Interior). Made from 80% Tinta Roriz, 10% Touriga Nacional, and 10% Jaen (grown at 750 meters in elevation), this shows impressive intensity on the nose, with scents of cigar box, dark chocolate, blackberries, smoke, coffee, and cedar. Aged 12 months in new French oak, it is less dark and more energetic on the attack, and more like ripe red fruits on the mid-palate, before turning darker and smoldering on the finish, with high tannins that could use some time to round out. Clearly well-made. Great now, but better in a couple of years. About $40.

-  November 10, 2022

Goisot Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre 2020. Impressive for its crystalline purity and verve, showing notions of green pear, white peach, and freshly chopped herbs on the nose. Tastes like crushed limestone and lemon zest, with tons of freshness and vibrancy. Ends a bit saline, then chalky and hinting at chamomile. Very enjoyable. Biodynamic. Begs for raw oysters. Drink within a couple of years. About $26.

-  November 8, 2022

Catena White Clay 2021 (Luján de Cujo). A rather unordinary blend of 55% Semillón and 45% Chenin Blanc, grown at high elevation, this is very aromatic, offering scents of ripe white peach, orange peel, preserved lemons, and a touch of hazelnut. Full in body, but not heavy, with some surprising minerality to go with the stone fruit and green melon flavors, and supported by solid acidity. A touch of spice on the finish. Sees no oak aging. Drink within a couple years. About $23.

Catena Cabernet Franc 2018 (San Carlos). Like ripe red bell peppers on the nose, plus dark spices, raspberries, dried herbs, cherries, and mocha. Almost juicy on the palate, with generous red fruits, but balanced by dusty notes, along with cedar, black pepper, and fine tannins. Shows some lift of acidity on the finish. Drink within 6-8 years. About $25.

-  November 1, 2022

Centovigne Castello di Castellengo Bianco Miranda 2020 (Coste Della Sesia). This is a 100% Erbaluce, featuring impressive minerality both on the nose and palate, plus notions of white flowers, pomelo, and green pear. Very high in acidity, but in a very enjoyable, mouthwatering way. Very good presence across the finish. No malolactic or oak. Drink now. About $20.

-  October 27, 2022

Guardians Rkatsiteli 2021 (Kakheti). Very clear and bright in the glass, showing scents of green pear and white peach, with subtle hints of orange peel and straw. Lean on the palate, but still very enjoyable, with freshness and vibrancy to the lemon and stone fruit flavors, ending with a clean, herbal note. Drink now. About $16.

-  October 24, 2022

The Language of Yes Grenache En Passerillage 2020 (Santa Maria Valley). A portion of this is made with post-harvest, air-dried grapes, as well as some whole cluster fermentation. Offers aromas of stewed cherries, green tobacco, seaweed, strawberries, underbrush, and raspberries. Medium-bodied and fresh, showing some dark spice notes on the palate, along with blueberries, milk chocolate, and orange peel. Not at all tiring or heavy, and at 14.3% alcohol, has both concentration and lift. Really interesting. Drink within 8 years. About $40.

-  October 19, 2022

Venica & Venica Friulano 2020 (Collio). Focused nose that impresses with notions of river rock, lemon peel, straw, white flowers, almonds, and freshly chopped green herbs. Vibrant and concentrated in the mouth, showing a salty note on top of the citrus flavors, plus a hint of white peach and green pear. Drink within a couple of years. About $25.

-  October 17, 2022

Domaine de la Charbonnière Châteauneuf du Pape 2019. Shows complexity on the nose, offering notions of underbrush, seaweed, cherries, blueberries, iodine, leather, fall leaves, and hints of dust. Rocky on the palate, like crushed stones mixed with cherry liqueur, plus strawberries, cloves, roasted coffee beans, and then licorice on the long finish. Delicious. Great intensity, and very Old World. Ready now, but will last for 10 years. About $50.

-  October 13, 2022

Hugo Mendes Branco 2019 (Lisboa). Pale yellow in color, with scents of crushed rocks, orange rind, wax, chives, and preserved lemons. Medium-bodied, this is expressive and pure, showing concentration to the citrus oils notes, all the while having a line of minerality throughout. Ends with an interesting hint of spice. Drink now. About $28.

-  October 10, 2022

Casa Castillo Las Gravas Viñas Viejas 2018 (Jumilla). Made from 90% Monastrell and 10% Garnacha, this offers aromas of incense and roasted herbs, backed by dark, intense fruit (black cherries, black plums), then some licorice, all the while staying lifted and elegant. Some chalkly minerality/graphite throughout the palate, with focused fruit and notions of orange peel and smoldering fire. Medium-bodied, and not at all overdone. Ready now, and will keep for 8 years. About $40.

-  September 28, 2022

Powell & Son Shiraz 2014 (Barossa Valley). The color indicates a little bit of age on this, with scents of blueberries, blackberries, and lots of black licorice, then leather and freshly brewed coffee. Pretty. Full-bodied but not heavy, showing more of that licorice note on the palate, plus dark berries and dark spices. Peppery and savory toward the finish, with fine tannins. Drink within a few years. About $20.

-  September 26, 2022

Angelo Nero Roero Arneis Serra Lupini 2021. Pale straw in color, with scents of white peach, fresh herbs, orange peel, crushed rocks, and hints of flowers. Easy to enjoy, tasting of stone fruits and lemons, this is bright, but not searing in acidity. Lots of minerality, especially through the vibrant finish. Sees no malolactic. Drink now. About $22.

-  September 22, 2022

Domaine de Reuilly Reuilly Les Pierres Plates 2021. Organically and biodynamically farmed on Kimmeridgian limestone, this qualifies in my book as coming from "tiny appellation" status in the eastern Loire. Very clear and bright in the glass, having scents of freshly mown lawn, lemons, river rocks, chamomile tea, and green bell peppers. Lively and fresh in the mouth, with a sense of elegance and precision, backed by pure citrus and gooseberry flavors, ending with a salty note. Drink now. About $26.

-  September 20, 2022

Bodegas Rectoral de Amandi Mencía Matilda Nieves 2020 (Ribeira Sacra). Smells like bright cherries mixed with lavender and violets, then some raspberries and a hint of green tobacco. Medium-bodied, with gentle tannins and an interesting palate of fresh herbs, red roses, anise, and fresh berries. Energetic through the lively finish, where it turns a little darker. Drink within a few years. About $18.

-  September 14, 2022

Manincor Réserve della Contessa 2019 (Alto Adige). Made from biodynamic Pinot Bianco (55%), Chardonnay (30%), and Sauvignon Blanc (15%), grown at 300-500 meters in elevation, this offers a very rocky nose, like crushed limestone, combined with notions of white mushrooms, green pear, and fresh herbs. Vibrant palate, where minerality plays a big role, along with nectarine and subtle orange peel. Perhaps a touch of caramel on the moderate finish. Drink within a few years. About $22.

-  September 12, 2022

Hoffman-Jayer Bourgogne Passetoutgrain 2017. Made from half Gamay and half Pinot Noir that are co-fermented, this is fresh and vibrant, featuring bright cherry, cranberry, and subtle tobacco scents. Lively palate, having similar notes, with crunchy acidity that's not too shrill. Not very complex, but mouthwatering. Shows purity. Great with roasted salmon. Drink now. About $25.

-  September 8, 2022

Mont Verrier Moulin-à-Vent 2020. Made from sustainable methods, this offers a focused nose of tart cherries, tomato leaf, wild berries, and underbrush. Nicely balanced, with zippy acidity backed by dark fruit and tobacco flavors that are dense and almost brooding. Ends with some chunky but proportioned tannins, showing that this is no wimpy Beaujolais. Drink within 8 years. About $23.

-  September 5, 2022

Lisini Brunello di Montalcino 2011. Needs some air to come alive, having dusty scents to begin with, then notions of lavender, anise, smoke, coffee, and hints of tart cherry. Has excellent intensity on the palate, with focused cherry, tobacco, and dark spice flavors, showing impressive length and refinement. The acidity is really in harmony here, keeping this alive and vibrant. Outstanding. Great now, but will keep for another 8 years. About $55.

-  September 1, 2022

Frantz Chagnoleau Mâcon-Villages Clos Saint Pancras 2019. From certified organic vines comes this refined, crisp single vineyard Chardonnay, featuring scents of green apples, pears, limestone, and white flowers, plus a hint of hazlenut. Has plenty of vibrancy to hold up the ripe citrus and stone fruit flavors, showing concentration and length. Very nicely done. Drink within a few years. About $25.

-  August 30, 2022

Jacquart Champagne Brut Rosé Mosaïque Non-Vintage. We've been fans of this cooperative producer for a while, and this bottle shows why, showing an intense strawberry color with hints of copper, and a nose of crushed ripe raspberries, orange peel, almonds, rose petal, and biscuit. Not shy on the palate, with lots of fresh berry flavors on the attack, then moving to hints of citrus, and finally some chalk on the finish. Contains about 44% Pinot Noir, with 33% Chardonnay, and 23% Pinot Meunier. About $40.

-  August 15, 2022

Kobal Furmint Old Vines Selection 2021 (Podravje). This is a dry, 100% Furmint (also known as Šipon) from Štajerska in Slovenia that sees no oak during production. A bit shy on the nose, suggesting lemon rind, white flowers, and wet rocks, but the palate is very, very energetic, like a bolt of electricity running through the mouth, carrying intense citrus flavors and plenty of minerality. Ends with a bit of pleasant bitterness. Cool stuff. Drink now. About $18.

-  August 11, 2022

Finca La Carrodilla Canto de Luna 2020 (Valle de Guadalupe). Made from organically produced Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, and Syrah (in equal parts), this offers a nose of dark, dusty tobacco, raspberry preserves, mocha, blackberries, and hints of anise. Medium to full-bodied, this starts off with very ripe fruit, nearing too ripe, like chocolate-covered cherries and blueberries, but moves toward savory underbrush and darker notes, like peppery spice. Moderately tannic, with solid acidity. Drink within 8 years. About $28.

-  August 8, 2022

Albert Bichot Chablis Domaine Long-Depaquit 2020. Flinty nose, with almost generous notions of green pear, lime zest, white peach, and orange peel, having purity and focus. Fantastic energy on the palate, this keeps you coming back with racy acidity and concentrated citrus flavors. Great value. Drink now. About $25.

-  August 5, 2022

Château Lassègue 2016 (St. Emilion). Stewed plums, crushed cherries, and cedar on the nose, plus notions of dusty library and dark tobacco. Maybe a touch of spice drawer. Youthfull and vibrant, with solid but not overbearing tannins that hold up very dark fruit and graphite flavors. Ends with some roasted coffee notes. Lovely. Made from 60% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Franc, and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, seeing 70% new French oak. Ready now, but will last at least 15 years. About $50.

-  August 3. 2022

L'effet Papillon Blanc 2021 (Côtes Catalanes). Made from organic Grenache Blanc and Macabeu, this is very clear and bright in the glass, featuring scents of orange peel, white flowers, honeydew melon, and fresh herbs. Shows some body and very good intensity to the tropical fruit flavors, mixed with some crushed stone and ripe orange notes. Solid acidity keeps this upright. Great with a sheeps milk cheese. Drink now. About $13.

-  August 1, 2022

António Lopes Ribeiro Branco Casa de Mouraz 2019 (Dão). Made from a wide variety of co-fermented local grapes, this is a bit shy on the nose, but fresh and showing some lemon, starfruit, and crushed stone notes. Has vibrant acidity, along with hints of tropical fruit as well as citrus, ending with a snap of green apple. Drink now. About $20.

-  July 28, 2022

Colleleva Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2020. Tons of minerality here, like crushed oyster shells, and a saline-like focus, showing inpressive purity. Very pretty texture, flowing across the palate in an elegant way, expressing more of that salty quality, with ample energy and verve. Orange peel and green herb flavors, ending in a hint of Marcona almond. Drink within a couple of years. About $16.

Castellani Vermentino 2019 (Toscana). Bright and fresh nose, suggesting lemons and wet stone, then a hint of fresh herbs. On the palate, there's more of that herbal quality, plus lean citrus and green pear. Maybe a slight notion of butterscotch on the finish. Not complex, but certainly enjoyable. Drink now. About $14.

-  July 26, 2022

Pasaeli Yapincak 2021 (Thrace). A white from Turkey, made from 100% Yapincak, offering vibrant scents of tangerine, lemons, river rock, and white flowers. Medium-bodied, with an unusual oily quality, like a fresh, vivid extra virgin olive oil, showing a herbaceous hint as well as citrus fruit, then a pepper and salty note. Very different, and very interesting. Drink now. About $17.

-  July 20, 2022

Bertrand-Delespierre Champange Brut Enfant de la Montagne Premier Cru Non-Vintage. Made from 40% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier, and 30% Chardonnay, and this contains 40% reserve wines, and the rest from the 2015 harvest. Hint of gold in color, with effusive scents of red apples, honey, active bread dough, dark baking spices, and red berries. More spices on the palate, plus concentrated citrus oil and green pear notes. Very fresh. This one was disgorged in September 2021, and might get better in a year or two. About $50.

-  July 15, 2022

Domaine de Piaugier Côtes du Rhône La Grange de Piaugier Blanc 2020. Stony nose, like river rocks or a saline, rocky beach, plus hints of white flowers and subtle lemon peel. More generous on the palate, offering notions of ripe lemons and oranges, then chamomile, pear, and green herbs. Medium in body, with moderate length, this has plenty of verve and freshness, ending with some minerality. Drink within a few years. About $18.

-  July 13, 2022

Presqu'ile Chardonnay 2020 (Santa Barbara County). Bright and fresh, this offers mostly white peaches on the nose, plus notions of ripe oranges and sandy gravel. Features medium body and lots of green apple and honey flavors, but this is not showy and not too lean, exhibiting little oak. Easy to like, ending with a bare hint of malolactic. Drink within a few years. About $23.

-  July 11, 2022

Caminhos Cruzados Colheita Branco Titular 2020 (Dão). Made from 35% Encruzado, 35% Malvasia Fina and 30% Bical, this value white offers scents of wet stones, straw, lemon rind, and fresh herbs. Features lots of zippy acidity to hold up modest but pure citrus flavors, ending clean and vibrant. Drink within a couple years. About $13.

-  July 8, 2022

Cantina Puiatti Ribolla Gialla 2020 (Venezia Giulia). Hints of stone fruit skin on the nose, plus golden apple, orange rind, and honeysuckle. Almost juicy attack, but with no shortage of acid backbone and no oak, this is very inviting and fresh, ending with a fresh herb component. Versitle. About $24.

-  July 5, 2022

Liquid Geography Rosé Wellfleet 2021 (Valles de Benavente). Made from 70% Tempranillo and 30% Prieto Picudo, this is on the pale side in color, but generous on the nose, reminiscent of strawberries and raspberries, with a hint of river rock and citrus. Fresh and zippy, but with plenty of watermelon and cherry fruit, and a touch of spice on the finish. Very easy to like. Drink now. About $15.

-  July 1, 2022

Camporè Etna Bianco 2021. Straw in color, offering scents of chamomile and lots of minerality, plus lemon bar, pencil eraser, and kumquat. Saline and mouthwatering, with plenty of acidity, bordering on tart, having flavors of lime zest and green apple. Not a ton of depth, but gets more expressive with time and air. Lean, but likeable. 70% Carricante and 30% Catarratto. Drink within a few years. About $20.

-  June 28, 2022

Pierre Péters Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée de Réserve Grand Cru Non-Vintage. A 100% Chardonnay from Grand Cru villages in the Côte des Blancs, this is offers intense, precise scents of lemon curd, active dough, tangeringe rind, and ripe apples. Shows fantastic purity and focus, with elegance to spare, but is also bordering on powerful, with concentrated citrus oil, honeysuckle, brioche, and almond flavors. Stays vibrant through the long finish. Outstanding. This bottle is based on the 2017 vintage, and was disgorged in July 2020. Drink within 6 years. About $60.

-  June 22, 2022

Abbazia di Novacella Kerner 2020 (Alto Adige Valle Isarco). Ripe stone fruit scents (apricots, yellow peach), plus notions of tropical fruit (pineapple, mango), along with minerality and fresh herbs. Not light in body, showing some richness, but is bone dry with plenty of acidity, and more of that fresh herb note on the palate. Drink within a few years. About $21.

-  June 20, 2022

Cantine Miali Fírr 2017 (Valle d'Itria). From Puglia comes this 100% Minutolo showing real depth and intensity. Medium yellow with a touch of gold in color, and reminiscent of lemon squares, wet stones, citrus oil, green pear, and a hint of petroleum on the nose. Medium-bodied, this combines intense citrus flavors with crisp acids, ending with a hint of tropical fruit. Drink within a few years. About $18.

-  June 13, 2022

Thevenet & Fils Saint Véran Clos de l'Ermitage Saint Claude Vieilles Vignes 2020. Shows purity and focus, with admirable intensity of white peach, green pear, and river rock scents, gaining volume with air and time in the glass. Clearly better than your basic Mâconnais white, showing real concentration of stone fruit and green apple flavors, plus citrus oil on the long finish. Delicious acidity puts this all together. Drink within a few years. About $27.

-  June 10, 2022

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 (St. Helena). At ten years of age, this is still very alive and fresh, featuiring fantastic scents of smoldering fire, menthol, blackberries, black cherries, freshly brewed coffee, and hints of licorice. Full-bodied and rich, without being overly heavy, and having gorgeous purity of cassis and cherry flavors, ending in a touch of anise and green tobacco. Love it. Drink within 6 years. About $60.

-  June 8, 2022

Ànima Negra Quíbia 2020 (Mallorca). Made from 60% of the red grape Callet, plus 30% Premsal, and 10% other local grapes. Straw in color, with scents of green melon, Honeycrisp apples, fresh herbs (parsley/thyme), and tart lemons. Very bright in the mouth, and having medium body, with a tingling saline note to go with mostly citrus and green pear flavors. Energetic and ready to drink, preferably with some shellfish. About $18.

-  June 6, 2022

Château de Montmal 2019 (Fitou). Reminiscent of smoldering fire, bacon fat, dark plums, anise, fig, soy sauce, and blackberries on the nose, with very good intensity. Impressive attack, with a blast of smoke-tinged black and red fruit, then dials down to more savory notes, like underbrush and dark mushrooms, with good staying power. Nice value, and great with some meat off the grill. Syrah, Grenache, and Carignan. Drink now through 2029. About $18.

-  May 31, 2022

Michael Shaps Petit Verdot 2017 (Monticello). Dark, inky color, with some pink peppercorn scents underneath notions of wild berries, coffee, underbrush, black plums, dark chocolate, cherries, and orange rind. Just as dark on the palate, with some hefty tannins and acidity, reminiscent of boysenberries and lots of cracked black pepper. Don't buy this if you shy away from structured wines. Drink now through 2035. About $30.

-  May 25, 2022

Château Guiraud Bordeaux Blanc Sec Le G 2019. Made from half Sauvignon Blanc and half Sémillon (organically farmed), this exhibits concentrated citrus oil scents, plus notions of melon, green pear, and freshly cut grass. Full-bodied and almost oily in texture, with an unusual citrus liqueur quality, with very intense pink pomelo and lemon rind notes, but with lots of acidity to carry it. With time, some passion fruit notes emerge. Very different from your average white Bordeaux. Drink within 6 years. About $25.

-  May 23, 2022

Pingus Psi 2019 (Ribera del Duero). Made from Tinto Fino with 10% Garnacha, this comes off as shy and savory aromatically, with hints of graphite, ink, and anise. The palate has a cola quality, with dark spices, black cherry, smoke, and cedar. Youthful, but has lots of potential, with very good intensity and excellent balance. Lively finish, with some minerality too. Great now, but probably more complex in a couple of years. About $30.

-  May 19, 2022

Goisot Bourgogne Aligoté 2020. Pale lemon in color, with an almost generous nose of river rocks and all manner of citrus fruits, plus some white peach. Vibrant and high in acidity, but with excellent levels of ripe tangerine and lemon flavors. Shows purity and presence that most Aligoté lack, and is great with grilled seafood. Drink within a few years. About $23.

- May 17, 2022

Rocca di Fabbri Montefalco Sagrantino 2015. Deep garnet in color, with intense scents of smoke, dark tobacco, black cherry, dark plums, shitake mushrooms, and hints of prune. Medium to full-bodied, with abundant tannins, great acidity, and excellent presence. Even with all the structure, it's relatively approachable, with plenty of dark fruit (cherry, blueberry) and melted bitter chocolate. This will hold for at least 8 more years. About $35.

- May 15, 2022

Ritme Celler +Ritme Blanc 2019 (Priorat). Composed of Garnacha Blanca from an appellation that's vastly more known for reds, this offers scents of wax, honeysuckle, ripe pears, yellow peaches, and subtle notions of darks spices. Has medium body along with solid acidity and freshness, with a hint of exotic fruit to go with the mostly peach/apple flavors, with a touch of oak and pleasant bitterness on the finish. Unusual. Drink within 5 years. About $24.

-  May 12, 2022

G.B. Burlotto Freisa 2020 (Langhe). Shows piercing, focused scents of fresh strawberries and cherries, plus notions of tomato stem and subtle ashtray. Medium-bodied, but with significant tannins and energy, this comes off as very much like a great Langhe Nebbiolo but with brigher fruit and even more acidity. Really facinating, with admirable length. Drink within 6 years. About $24.

-  May 9, 2022

Christophe Patrice Petit Chablis 2020. Not shy aromas of lime peel, river rock, white flowers, and hints of white peach. This shows purity and lots of energy, with surprisingly good intensity for this appellation. Zippy green pear and assorted citrus flavors, that are clean and focused, ending with some minerality. Drink within a couple years. About $20.

-  May 6, 2022

Petitjean-Pienne Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Coeur de Chardonnay Non-Vintage. Very good intensity on the nose, suggesting butter/sugar cookie, white flowers, lemon peel, and a hint of almond. Very elegant, with supple texture and refinement, but also very, very bright in acidity. Offers flavors like biscotti, lemon curd, and clementine. The finish has a bit of a toasty, caramel quality. From the Grand Cru of Cramant. Drink within 5 years. About $40.

-  May 4, 2022

Clos i Terrasses Laurel 2015 (Priorat). Made from about 75% Garnatxa, with 20% Syrah, and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon, this shows fantastic intensity on the nose, with scents of black cherries, blueberries, campfire smoke, vanilla, and fresh blackberries. Full-bodied, but has plenty of freshness and energy, with amazing purity of blue and black fruit flavors that grab on to your palate and don't let go. Turns toward tobacco, graphite, and dark earth flavors on the long finish, where the structure peeks out. Very impressive density, all the while staying alive and vibrant. Ready now, but this could keep for another 10 years. The 2014 was our favorite wine of 2019, by the way. About $55.

-  April 27, 2022

Jean-Pierre Large Morgon Les Délys 2019. Relatively deep in color, with penetrating scents of cherries, green tobacco, dried orange peel, cranberries, date, and tomato stalk. Shows concentration and focus, with a slightly meaty, umami undertone to go with the red fruit and crushed rock notes. Zesty acidity, but also has body and presence. Solidly built. Drink within 8 years. About $20.

-  April 25, 2022

Domaine de l'Enclos Chablis 2019. Made from organically farmed grapes, this is very clear and clean in the glass, with a hint of green color. Shows intensity on the nose, like lime peel, white peach, and crushed limestone. Concentrated on the palate, but with plenty of freshness and verve, it offers intense citrus oil flavors, plus notions of stone fruit and green pear. Crackling acidity, with an impressive finish and excellent purity. Drink within six years. About $28.

Domaine Dugois Chardonnay Terre de Marne 2019 (Arbois). Bright straw in color, with a bare hint of gold. Shows some richness on the nose, like honey and ripe lemons, plus apples and orange peel. That honey quality shows up on the mid-palate, along with bosc pear, yellow peach, wax, and white flowers. Maintains interest with minerality and supportive acidity. A very interesting expression of Chardonnay. Drink within a few years. About $26.

-  April 20, 2022

Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc 2020 (Marlborough). Very clear and pale. Pea greens, lime zest, green mango, and ripe grapefruit scents. Vibrant, with good intensity on the palate, ahead of most Sauv Blancs in this price range, with lots of zippy lime flavors, then some grassy notes on the moderate finish. Nicely done, and not boring. Drink now. About $15.

-  April 17, 2022

Carlos Lucas Pinha Ribeiro Santo Reserva Tinto 2017 (Dão). Some dusty scents mingle with tart cherry, plum, white pepper, and hints of coffee. Medium-bodied, showing freshness and good intensity, this shows as more savory on the palate, with roasted herb and anise notes, then some dark, wild fruit on the moderately long finish. Made from equal parts Touriga Nacional and Alfrocheiro, plus 30% Tinta Roriz. Drink within 6 years. About $20.

-  April 15, 2022

Thierry Tissot Altesse Mataret 2015 (Roussette du Bugey). Waxy scents mix with notions of pear, lemon, and river rock. Clean and very vibrant (even at this age), with crackling acidity and tons of minerality across the palate. Dry and stony, and while not generous, this isn't boring either -- it's just that this does not shout for your attention. Instead of Muscadet with oysters, try this instead. Drink within a few years. About $22.

-  April 12, 2022

Bodega Marañones 30.000 Maravedíes 2017 (Vinos de Madrid). Made from about 90% Garnacha, this shows a relatively light ruby color, with some green herbal scents that go along with bright cherry and raspberry notes. Maybe some peppery spice too. Medium-bodied and fresh in the mouth, showing purity of red berry flavors, plus a crushed rock quality. This is a refined, pretty Garnacha, not a bold, slap-you-across-the-face version. Drink now through 2028. About $22.

-  April 10, 2022

Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon Jack London Vineyard 2015 (Sonoma Mountain). I've tasted many vintages of this wine (back to the 1990, I think), and it's clear that it needs some time to show itself. At seven years of age, this bottle is emerging with energy and purity, showing dark cassis, tobacco, mocha, and anise scents. The palate is relatively restrained, but not without concentration of dark fruit, plus scrubby tannins and savory notes. Medium-bodied, and great with braised beef. Drink now through 2030. About $28.

-  April 8, 2022

Schramsberg Brut Rosé Mirabelle Non-Vintage (North Coast). Made from 58% Pinot Noir and 42% Chardonnay in the traditional method, this displays a pretty copper/peach color, with scents of baking bread, raspberries, Meyer lemons, and orange peel. Festive and easy to enjoy, with plenty of juicy, ripe berry flavors, but balanced by bright acidity. This is not a subtle, elegant style -- it's very extroverted -- more suitable for party. Drink now. About $25.

-  April 4, 2022

Bodegas Ordóñez Tinta de Toro Trition 2018 (Toro). From old vine, head trained, ungrafted, and dry farmed vineyards comes this outstanding value, showing pure, sweet notions of smoke, vanilla, cherries, plums, and hints of cedar. Ripe and enjoyable right out of the gate, with lots of red and black fruit through the mid-palate, then toasty oak notes emerge. Ends a bit hot (it's 15% alcohol), but otherwise this is nicely done, with supportive acidity and fine tannins. Great intensity for the price. Drink now through 2030. About $19.

-  April 1, 2022

Luis Pato Baga Espumante Bruto Non-Vintage (Bairrada). From 100% Baga grapes grown on chalky clay soils, this sparkling rosé is bottle fermented and fairly light in color, showing scents of crushed rocks, raspberries, and tart citrus. Robust in the mouth, as Baga tends to be, with with plenty of acidity and green apple flavors, plus notions of dry, chalky earth and cranberries. Lively bead. Very unusual, and just this side of austere. Drink now. About $20.

Luis Pato Baga Touriga Nacional 2015 (Bairrada). Made from 60% Baga and the rest Touriga Nacional, and offering some stemmy green feral scents that give way to dark berry and mocha notes. Earthy palate that suggests underbrush and wild, tart berries. Finishes with some stout tannins. Pair this with some roasted game meats and a fireplace. Drink within 6 years. About $17.

-  March 30, 2022

Mont Rubí Sumoll Gaintus Radical 2018 (Penedés). Made from 100% Sumoll, a rare red grape from the Penedés region within Catalonia, this is bright ruby in color, offering scents of fresh roses, raspberries, orange peel, cranberries, green stems, and hints of tar. On the lighter end of medium-bodied, fresh and vibrant, and modest in scope, but not uninteresting. Mostly energetic red fruit flavors, with a floral note, and moderate finish. Nice change of pace. Would be good with some salami. Drink within a few years. About $20.

-  March 28, 2022

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2015 (Napa Valley). As usual, this top Cabernet bottling from Beringer shows outstanding purity, intensity, and overall harmony. Opaque, with no shortage of cassis, black cherry, blueberry, blackberry, coffee, and subtle dark tobacco scents. Aged for 20 months in 80% new oak, but does not come off as overdone, along with a refined texture that's both plush and featuring a lift of acidity toward the finish. Concentrated red and black fruit flavors, with a cocoa powder note. Outstanding. Drink now through 2040. About $100.

-  March 26, 2022

Adegas Moure Mencía Abadía da Cova Xuno 2018 (Ribeira Sacra). Made from old vine Mencía from terraced vineyards in the Ribeiras do Miño sub-region, this offers some slighly funky, green stem scents, plus notions of raspberry, boysenberry, tobacco, and freshly brewed coffee. Ripe, with very good intensity in the mouth, and lots of red fruit and medium body. Finishes with some moderate tannins and that coffee note again. Some air really helps this to flesh out. Drink now through 2029. About $27.

-  March 23, 2022

Zulal Voskehat 2019 (Vayots Dzor). Interestingly both slightly green and golden in color. Offers scents of white flowers, green apple, and hints of honey. Medium to full-bodied, with decent freshness, this is more like red apples, stone fruit, and oranges in the mouth. Dry, with a touch of minerality. Not sure what to compare this to, but definitely worth trying. Drink now. About $17.

-  March 21, 2022

Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda NV. An excellent example of this style, La Gitana is tangy, bright, dry, intense, salty, and totally reminds me of our last trip to Andalucía. Shows notions of chalk, white flowers, lemon rind, and almonds. Perfect with salty appetizers. Drink now. About $16/500ml.

-  March 18, 2022

Avancia Godello Cuveé de O 2019 (Valdeorras). Smells very clean and pure, with focused, intense lemon oil scents, plus notions of wet rock and white peach. Excellent minerality here, like crushed up slate under flavors of pear, lemon, orange rind, and green herbs. Very fresh and vibrant. Surprising intensity. Drink within a couple years. About $16.

-  March 16, 2022

Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé Non-Vintage. Glimmering rose gold in color, with aromas of raspberries, chalk, ripe peaches, bright cherries, and hints of graham cracker. Shows fantastic intensity of both red fruit as well as minerality, with a very elegant, fine texture. Totally harmonious and beautiful, and even includes a long, detailed finish. Drink within a couple years. About $90.

-  March 14, 2022

Krasno Red 2019 (Goriška Brda). This red blend from Slovenia contains 40% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet sauvignon, and 30% Merlot, and shows aromas of red bell peppers, raspberries, orange peel, and subtle dark spice. Medium-bodied, with lots of fresh red/blue fruit, but plenty of acidity, as well as line of minerality. Moderate tannins through the perky close. The appellation is right next to Italy's Gorizia, in Friuli Venezia Giulia. Drink within 5 years. About $13.

-  March 11, 2022

Domaine de Durban Beaumes de Venise 2019. Youthful and generous nose, with notions of dark ground spices to go with the cherry, mushroom, cocoa powder, and blackberry scents, then some underbrush and iodine notes. Medium-bodied and fresh, this says it is 15% alcohol, but it doesn't show, with savory qualities matching the dark fruit flavors, finishing with black pepper. Made from 70% Grenache, 25% Syrah, and 5% Mourvedre. Drink within 8 years. About $24.

-  March 8, 2022

Raventós i Blanc de Nit 2018 (Conca del Riu Anoia). This vintage dated, relatively pale sparkling rosé is made from 38% Xarel-lo, 30% Macabeu, 26% Parellada, and 6% Monastrell. Bottle fermented and aged for 18 months sur lie, this offers scents of rapsberries, dust, lemon rind, and hints of rocky soil. Shows intensity in the mouth, with flavors of crushed berries and tart oranges, then a chalky note toward the finish. Laser-bright acidity, and comes off on the very, very dry spectrum of brut. Focused and contemplative. Drink within a few years. About $24.

-  March 6, 2022

Domaine Mardon Quincy Cuvée Très Vieilles Vignes 2020. Bright and pure, with scents of lime zest, freshly chopped herbs, grapefruit, river rock, and hints of passion fruit. Vibrant across the palate, having focused energy, but solid levels of citrus and green mango flavors that are surprisingly long and with more concentration that one might expect. Very enjoyable. Begs for some goat cheese covered with herbs. From 50-80 year old vine. Drink within a few years. About $18.

-  March 4, 2022

Mt. Brave Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Mount Veeder). Very deep purple, with fantastic, effusive scents of cassis, blackberries, cedar, dark ground spices, pipe tobacco, freshly brewed coffee, and vanilla. Pure and focused in the mouth, with medium to full body and dark, solid tannins. There are some bitter chocolate notes to go with the black fruit, as well as a bit of licorice and crushed rock. Structured, so this is not for fans of a plush, round style of Cabernet -- the shallow mountian soils show through here. Ready now, but will last for at least 15 years. About $100.

-  March 2, 2022

Vila Voltaire Rouge Je Suis Tombé Par Terre 2018 (Coteaux d’Ensérune).  Made from equal parts Carignan, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, this is certified organic and aged for one year in used oak. Offers scents of wild berries, underbrush, dried herbs, cracked black pepper, and pencil shavings. Shows intensity in the mouth, along with a lift of acidity that supports black fruit and licorice flavors. Dark, spicy finish. Give this some air. Drink now through 2030. About $21.

-  February 27, 2022

Château Canon la Gaffelière 2014 (Saint Émilion). There's a hot iron quality on the nose, plus ripe dark plums, cherries, anise, cassis, hot chocolate, and hints of dark spices. Lots of red and black fruit on the attack, then turns to notions of dusty cocoa powder and espresso, with some black tea tannins on the finish. Expressive, with excellent density of flavor. Medium to full-bodied, and very enjoyable now, but will last for at least 10 more years. About $85.

-  February 23, 2022

Bodegas Langa Pi-3.1415 2017 (Aragon). A 100% Concejon from Aragon, named after the size of the vineyard, at 3.14 hectares. Aged for a year in new oak. Deeply colored, with scents of sweet/tart cherries, underbrush, red bell peppers, and green tobacco. Lively in the mouth, where the acidity lifts darker notes of graphite, anise, smoldering fire, and black fruit. Unique. Drink now through 2027. About $22.

-  February 21, 2022

Chauvet Frères Beaujolais Blanc 2019. Very pale, with a bit of green color. Lean, but in a great way, with hints of lemon, saltine cracker, white peach, minerals, and Asian pear on the nose. Crisp, very vibrant, and with that dry, salty quality. Tart green apple flavors. Great with shellfish. Chardonnay. Drink now. About $17.

-  February 18, 2022

Domaine du Cros Marcillac Lo Sang del Païs 2018. Interesting iron, smoke, cranberry, black pepper, tomato leaf, ripe bell pepper, blood, and wild berry notes on both the nose and palate that are slightly feral, but have good intensity that keeps you coming back. Medium-bodied and fresh, with that iron streak showing though on the moderately long finish. Has acidity to pair with a variety of foods, such as those with exotic spices. Made from Fer Servadou. Drink within 5 years. About $18.

-  February 15, 2022

Villa Sparina Gavi 2020. Really enjoy the river rock note on the nose, along with white peach, green pear, and orange peel. Could use a bit more acidity, but is otherwise well-made, showing clean citrus, peppery greens, and stone fruit flavors, with admirable purity. Drink now. About $15.

-  February 13, 2022

Venus la Universal Venus 2015 (Montsant). Ripe, intense nose, offering purity to the blueberry, black cherry, and smoke scents. Plump and generous in the mouth, with refined texture and full body. There's some crushed rock notes to go with all the blue and black fruit, finishing long and pleasing. Doesn't seem very evolved, but I would drink within 5 years to enjoy the exhuberant fruit. Carinyena, plus Garnatxa and Syrah. About $20.

Venus la Universal Dido 2019 (Montsant). Shows some brightness on the nose, like fresh rose petals and citrus rinds, but there's also currant and cherry. Blackberry, blueberry, cherry, and hints of mocha flow easily across the palate, with medium to full body and a sense of energy and focus. Some youthful but fine tannnis on the finish. Made from Garnatxa and Syrah, plus trace amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink within 8 years. About $20.

-  January 26, 2022

Ronco Margherita Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso 2017 (Friuli Venezia Giulia). Tart cherry, smoke, tobacco, and plum scents, then a hint of shitake mushroom, with good intensity. Nicely done, featuring a lift of acidity and a supple texture, with mostly a red fruit profile that's focused and pure. Great with hard cheese. Drink within 5 years. About $20.

-  January 24, 2022

Cieck Erbaluce di Caluso 2020. Shy nose, hinting at wet stones and green pears, but the palate has more to offer, like ripe lemons, fresh herbs, white peach, and apricots. Features surprising intensity, along with electric acidity to keep it lively. Drink within a couple years. About $18.

-  January 21, 2022

Tommasi Valpolicella Classico Superiore Rafaèl 2019. Bright nose, featuring easygoing cherry, plum, strawberry, and spring flower scents. Youthful and uncomplicated (but not boring), this has enough perky red fruit flavors and acidity to keep you coming back, with some savory notes on the moderate finish. Shows freshness, plus a pleasing texture. Made from 60% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, and 15% Molinara. Best to drink within a few years. About $16.

-  January 19, 2022

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (St. Helena). This is plush, ripe, and pure, but not one-dimensional or overdone, with scents of smoldering campfire, cassis, blackberry, and freshly brewed coffee. Very full-bodied and palate-coating, offering concentrated black cherry, blueberry, vanilla, and chocolate flavors, then hints of anise and dark spices on the long finish. Doesn't feel too hot, even at 15.5% alcohol. Gorgeous now, or hold for at least 15 years. About $60.

-  January 14, 2022

Château Siran 2015 (Margaux). Very expressive nose, with notions of boysenberry, currant, black cherries, ink, coffee, mint, dark/wet earth, and smoldering fire. Youthful tannins surround generous black fruit and tobacco flavors, with solid acdity. Medium-bodied. Excellent density of flavor. Give this lots of air/time for it to really blossom. Made from 55% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Petit Verdot. Probably better in a few more years. About $50.

-  January 12, 2022

Ostatu Blanco 2019 (Rioja Alavesa). Made from 85% Viura plus 15% Malvasia and certified organic, this is steely and mineral on the nose, with hints of lemon peel and thyme. Energetic palate that isn't quite austere, but is not for those wanting lots of fruit. Charms for the zippy line of acidity and minerality through the entire sip. Would be great with a bunch of raw oysters. Drink now. About $18.

-  January 10, 2022

Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2012. There's a hint of hot iron on the nose, then opens up to reveal beautiful scents of red roses, freshly brewed coffee, strawberries, dried orange peel, molasses, and subtle dark spices. Starts of elegant and pretty on the attack, with plenty of cherry and licorice notes, moving toward espresso and leather as it moves along. Medium-bodied, with excellent purity and focus, finishing with solid, spicy tannins. Very, very lovely. This feels mature, but not all heading downward, so drink now or hold for another 8 years. About $50.

-  January 7, 2022

Ravines Dry Riesling 2018 (Finger Lakes). Shows very good purity and focus on the nose, with hints of Vaseline on top of white peach, green pear, and lemon rind notes that have impressive intensity. Dry, zippy, and saline in the mouth, with some mineral-like snappiness. The fruit here is very reserved, but this is enjoyable for the crunchy acidity. Would be great with a charcuterie board. Drink within 6 years. About $16.

-  January 5, 2022

Alvaro Palacios Camins del Priorat 2019 (Priorat). Scents of ripe cherries, blueberries, mocha, and licorice and under some dusty/rocky characteristics. The palate is easy to like and unburdened by a lot of oak, featuring lots of red and blue fruit, but with ripe tannins and juicy acids on a medium-bodied frame. Clean, and very versitile food-wise. Always a great value for this appellation. Made from 35% Garnacha, 24% Syrah, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cariñena, 10% Merlot and 3% other varieties. Drink within 6 years. About $24.

-  January 3, 2022

Chanson Viré-Clessé 2018. Hint of green color, with a nose like crushed oyster shells, green apples, and white peach. There's a bit of herbaceousness too. Surprisingly expansive on the palate, showing some generosity to the orange, ripe pear, Courtland apple, and lemon verbena flavors. Finishes with verve and excellent length, especially for this price. Not a boring Mâconnais white at all. Drink within a couple years. About $18.

-  December 29, 2021

This time each December, we reveal our favorite wine recommendations of the year. Below are our top 10, plus a few honorable mentions:

#1 - Hugues Godmé Champagne Brut Réserve Premier Cru Non-Vintage

#2 - Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon Wight Vineyard 2015 (St. Helena)

#3 - Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2011

#4 - Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2014 (Napa Valley)

#5 - Jean Laurent Champagne Brut Blanc de Noirs La Griffe de l'Ource 2008

#6 - Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve Non-Vintage

#7 - Betz Family Winery Clos de Betz 2015 (Columbia Valley)

#8 - Ken Wright Pinot Noir Abbott Claim 2017 (Yamhill-Carlton)

#9 - Moet & Chandon Champagne Brut Grand Vintage 2006

#10 - Domaine du Cayron Gigondas 2017

Honorable mentions:

Kumeu River Chardonnay Estate 2019 (Kumeu)

Bodegas El Nido Clio 2015 (Jumilla)

Van Zellers & Co. Branco VZ 2018 (Douro)

Mas Alta Black Slate La Vilella Alta 2018 (Priorat)


-  December 27, 2021

Van Zellers & Co. Branco VZ 2018 (Douro). Light straw colored, with plenty of minerality on the nose, plus hints of lemons. Vibrant, fresh, and without heaviness, this shows a hint of toasted hazelnut to go with the citrus oil flavors, then more minerality on the finish. Great intensity for the price. Could be confused in a blind tasting as a restrained and elegant Chardonnay. Drink within a few years. About $25.

-  December 21, 2021

Cédric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Noirs Roses de Jeanne Côte de Val Vilaine V17. Made from Pinot Noir and disgorgred in April 2019 (no dosage), this offers a beautiful nose of toffee, red apple skin, dark mushrooms, honey, whole wheat bread, dust, and citrus peel. Almost full-bodied, showing outstaning volume and presence on the palate, with notions of dark, bruised fruit and hazelnuts, anchored by proper acids. Fantastic intensity. Would stand up to a herb-crusted, roasted chicken. Tastes slightly youthful, so hold for a year or two, and drink for up to a decade. About $65.

-  December 15, 2021

Los Bermejos Diego Seco 2019 (Lanzarote). Made from 100% Diego (also known as Vijariego Blanco), this is very clear and bright in the glass, with shy scents of minerals and lemon rind. Not shy on the palate, however, offering impressive intensity of citrus, fresh herb, and green apple flavors on a medium-bodied, highly acid frame. More fantastic minerality and energy on the finish. Drink now. About $20.

-  December 13, 2021

Hermanos Hernáiz Finca la Emperatriz Rioja Reserva 2014. Beautifully perfumed, showing dark cherries, violets, freshly brewed coffee, red flowers, and suggestions of vanilla. Medium-bodied, with excellent balance and composure. Exhibits some spicy tobacco notes on the finish, plus refined tannins and fresh acidity. Tempranillo, with small amounts of Garnacha, Viura, and Graciano. Drink now through 2026. About $25.

-  December 10, 2021

Júlio Bastos Dona Maria Amantis Reserva 2016 (Alentejo). Made from estate grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot, and Touriga Nacional in equal parts, this shows peppery/dark ground spice scents, plus notions of blackberries, eucalyptus, dried orange peel, and boysenberry. Generous dark fruit on the attack, then moves toward espresso and roasted wild herbs. Medium-bodied, with moderately high tannins, this comes off as mature, so drink within 5 years. About $23.

-  December 6, 2021

Château La Vaisinerie 2015 (Puisseguin Saint-Emilion). Made from approximately 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc from one of the satellite appellations of Saint-Emilion, this exhibits pleasing, forward scents of plums, black cherries, rose petals, and freshly brewed coffee. Medium-bodied and easy to enjoy, this is made for near-term drinking, showing moderate intensity of black fruit and tobacco notes with unobtrusive structure. Finishes with some dark spice notes. Drink within 8 years. About $25.

-  December 3, 2021

Parparoussis Sidertis The Gift of Dionysos 2018 (Achaia). Notions of lemon oil, almond cookie, crushed rocks, honey, fresh veggies, and candle wax on both the nose and palate. Medium-bodied and fresh, with a touch of pleasant anise bitterness toward the finish. Very interesting. Works well with hearty cheeses. Drink within a few years. About $19.

-  December 1, 2021

Poboleda Bon Mas 2018 (Priorat). Made from Garnacha and Mazuela, this offers spicy/earthy scents on top of sweet/tart cherry, then notions of roasted herbs and wild berry. This is not a weighty Priorat, having more moderate body than most, as well as more acidity and freshness, but with savory, dark flavors of charcoal and a hint of blackberry. An excellent value for the appellation. Drink within 5 years or so. About $18.

-  November 29, 2021

Lioco Chardonnay 2019 (Sonoma County). This comes off more like a bottle from the Mâconnais, with notions of green apple, white peach, lemon, white flowers, and a bare hint of vanilla. Racy acidity and impressive purity. Bright and refreshing, and not at all heavy-handed. Drink within a few years. About $20.

-  November 24, 2021

Romuald Petit Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2019. Generous scents of ripe cherries, cranberries, blueberries, and dark spices, with plenty of lift and focus. The palate leans more austere and tannic, but with impressive intensity, showing notions of tobacco, fall leaves, and anise. With air, the primary fruit emerges toward the finish. Built for food. Drink now through 2027. About $20.

-  November 23, 2021

Suertes del Marqués Trenzado 2019 (Valle de la Orotava). A Tenerife white made from mostly Listán Blanco vines trained in the cordon trenzado (braided) method on volcanic soil. Shows a waxy, ripe pear skin quality both on the nose and palate, along with unpopped corn kernels, farro, lemon, and stone fruit. Lots of acidity and freshness, with impressive intensity and purity, finishing with minerality to spare. Drink within a few years. About $23.

-  November 22, 2021

Paolo Scavino Barolo 2013. Garnet in color, with reticent aromas of roses and licorice. Time brings out notions of dark spices, red berries, tobacco, forest floor, and eucalyptus. Tannic and youthful, but elegant, with peppery spice flavors to go with the red fruit and leather. Dark. Great intensity and acidity. Great now, but not very evolved, so try in a few years, and give it air. About $40.

-  November 17, 2021

Domaine La Manarine Le Carignan 2018 (Vin de Pays de Vaucluse). A bare hint of funk on the nose, but this is mostly about tart cherry, blueberry, and pomegranate scents. It's lighter and brighter than one would expect for a Carignan, having less body, lower alcohol, and more acidity, but still has a dark fruit profile, as well as savory notes like roasted herb, charcoal, and shitake mushroom. Finishes with some moderate tannins. Drink now through 2026. About $15.

-  November 15, 2021

Hosmer Sauvignon Blanc 2020 (Cayuga Lake). Very pale and clear in the glass, with aromas of gooseberries, lime peel, Sweet Tarts, chalk, fresh herbs, lemons, and hints of passion fruit and mango. Lots of acidity, with white grapefruit and kiwi notes on the attack, then leans toward a cotton candy note, finishing with a hint of residual sugar. This gets a recommendation for its ability to pair with food, especially winter veggies. Drink now. About $15.

-  November 11, 2021

Domaine d'Albas 2018 (Coteaux de Peyriac). This value Languedoc white is made from 50% Vermentino, 30% Viognier, and 20% Roussanne, and offers pleasing, complex aromatics of fresh herbs, citrus peel, wax, cut weeds, flowers, and yellow peaches. Shows some generosity in the mouth, with medium body, substantial fruit (citrus/peach), and lots of acidity. Nice purity and focus for the price. Drink now. About $15.

-  November 9, 2021

Vine Ponto Saperavi 2017 (Kakheti). A dark-colored, intense red from Georgia, this offers scents of ink, charcoal, black earth, and wet leather, but also displays freshness. Tannic and dark, with briary boysenberry and blackberry fruit, plus cracked black pepper. Youthful and almost impenetrable, this is not for those who like delicate wines. Qvevri fermented for six months in the ground. Give this some air to drink now, or wait a few more years. About $20.

-  November 3, 2021

E Prie Di Anfosso Lorenzo Rossese di Dolceacqua 2019. Made from 100% Rossese, grown on steeply terraced vineyards in Liguria, this exhibits pale to moderate ruby color, followed by scents of red flowers, forest floor, bright plums, cherries, and hints of spice. Medium-bodied, with ample acidity and freshness, but with flavors that lean dark on the attack, like mushrooms and leather, then moves toward brighter fruit, like pomegranate and raspberry toward the energetic finish, where some fine tannins emerge. Drink within 5 years. About $30.

-  November 1, 2021

Nivarius Tempranillo Blanco N 2019 (Rioja). Made from the unusual white mutation of Tempranillo, plus 5% Malvasía Riojana, this is extremely fresh and vibrant, offering notions of wet stone, green apples, lime peel, white flowers, and tart pear. Finishes with a ton of minerality. Would be great with some fried seafood. Drink within 3 years. About $13.

-  October 28, 2021

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon Wight Vineyard 2015 (St. Helena). There are some toasty/savory scents here, like roasted chestnuts, plus complex notions of cassis, blueberries, black cherries, vanilla, molasses, freshly brewed coffee, smoke, and soy sauce. Full-bodied and plush, but not without supportive tannins. Shows extreme purity and concentration. More black cherry and cassis notes on the palate, then hints of cedar and lavender. A long, impressive finish, where a licorice note emerges. Delicious. Still youthful, this should last for another 15 years. About $80.

-  October 25, 2021

Umani Ronchi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Casal di Serra 2019. Shows purity and focus on the nose, suggesting spring white flowers, ripe lemons, fresh herbs, and river rock. Generous on the palate, with delicious pear, white peach, and citrus flavors, anchored by ample freshness and verve. Very nicely done, with a long finish of almonds and crushed limestone. Made from organic grapes. Drink within a couple years. About $18.

-  October 22, 2021

Quinta Varzea da Pedra Arinto 2018 (Óbidos). Made from estate-grown organic grapes, stainlees steel fermented and aged, this offers focused minerality on both the nose and palate, along with white flowers, lemon zest, green pear, chalky dust, and Cortland apple. Medium-bodied. The crunchy acidity really carries this along, finishing with a burst of tart fruit. Drink now. About $17.

-  October 20, 2021

Achaval Ferrer Malbec 2018 (Mendoza). Like crushed cherries and boysenberries on the nose, plus notions of vanilla, sweet spices, and coffee that combine to show excellent depth and intensity. Full-bodied, with very good purity and expressiveness, offering flavors of melted milk chocolate, ripe cherries, blueberries, anise, and hints of cocoa powder. Stays honest with solid acidity through the finish. Nicely done. Drink within 8 years. About $21.

-  October 14, 2021

Epiphany Grenache Blanc Rodney's Vineyard 2017 (Santa Barbara County). Interesting wax, lanolin, yellow peach, white truffle, and lychee scents. Very crisp in the mouth, but with a citrus/pineapple yogurt quality, with medium body and a hint of white pepper on the finish. Drink now. About $20.

-  October 12, 2021

Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve Non-Vintage. Contains an impressive 40% reserve wines, with an average age of 10 years, and then matured for over 3 years in bottle. Shows excellent intensity on the nose, with notions of butterscotch, cherries, shortbread cookies, honey, lemon oil, and candied orange rinds. Full-bodied, palate-coating, and suggestive of golden delicious apples, raspberries, and oranges. Graham cracker spiciness on the rich, long finish. This bottle was disgorged in 2018. Outstanding. Not a delicate style. Drink within 5 years or so. About $55.

-  October 10, 2021

Domaine Barmès-Buecher Pinot Blanc Rosenberg 2018 (Alsace). Hint of gold in color, with inviting, complex aromas of river rock, white peach, wax, and lime zest. Fresh and zippy in the mouth, offering flavors of almonds, honey, clementine, and apples. Shows some weight and intensity, with an almost rich texture. A great food wine, this pairs well with pâté. Drink within a few years. About $25.

-  September 30, 2021

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2014 (Napa Valley). Jumps out of the glass with generous, intense scents of cassis, blueberries, camphor, iodine, smoldering fire, freshly brewed coffee, melted chocolate, mint, and a touch of red bell peppers. Very full-bodied and rich in texture, with refined, but evident tannins, layered on top of ripe black plum, cherry, blackberry, and mocha flavors, finishing with long, with licorice, vanilla, dark spice notes. Simply outstanding, this will make it on to our top 10 of the year. Not at all evolved, so drink it now or hold on to it for at least 15-20 years. About $140.

-  September 27, 2021

Boccadigabbia Ribona 2019 (Colli Maceratesi). Clean and vibrant nose, like wet stones, flowers, and lemon zest, then a palate that's very easy to enjoy, offering zippy acids and citrus flavors. Ends with some minerality and white peach. Made from 100% Ribona (also known as Maceratino), a rare grape from the Marche. Drink now. About $15.

-  September 24, 2021

Mas Alta Black Slate La Vilella Alta 2018 (Priorat). Regular readers might recognize that we're big fans of the Black Slate series from Priorat. This bottle shows why, with fantastic, intense scents of roasted herbs, smoldering fire, dark cherries, anise, and blueberries. Powerful. Excellent intensity, showing bitter chocolate and dark fruit notes, with a savory quality through the finish, retaining freshness. Maybe a touch hot compared to the 2017, but an outstanding value as always. Garnatxa, Carinyena, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. Drink over the next 10 years. About $24.

-  September 22, 2021

Sierra Norte Mariluna Blanco 2019 (Valencia). Made from organic Verdejo (85%) and Macabeo (15%), this offers bright, intense aromas of lemon peel, red apples, white peach, and melon. Fresh and lively in the mouth, with a bit of that salty air quality, plus flavors of fresh herbs, green pears, and tart lemon, finishing with some minerality. Could use a bit more depth, but at this price, who cares? Drink now. About $13.

-  September 15, 2021

Skaramuca Pošip 2018 (Korcula Island). From an island on the Dalmatian coast, Croatia comes this 100% Pošip bottling, offering scents of green pear, lemon zest, peaches, melon, wax, and a bright, saline quality. That salty note really blossoms on the palate, along with crisp citrus flavors, ending with some real intensity and minerality. Drink now. About $22.

-  September 13, 2021

Statti Gaglioppo 2018 (Calabria). Medium ruby in color, and sporting scents of fresh, bright cherries, tobacco smoke, and hints of orange rind and roses. Plenty of acidity, but also flavors of both black and red berries, plus anise and freshly brewed coffee. Moderate in weight, as well as depth, but definitely an interesting change of pace, and enjoyable for its freshness. Drink within 5 years. About $13.

-  September 9, 2021

Luigi Gregoletto Manzoni Bianco 2019 (Colli Trevigiani). From the Veneto, made from a grape cross of Pinot Blanc and Riesling, this offers a pure, saline nose, hinting at white peach and lime zest, then notions of Vaseline. Racy in acidity and showing excellent purity, this isn’t loaded with fruit, but is admirable for its show of minerality. Would be great with a charcuterie platter. Drink now. About $22.

-  September 6, 2021

Cooperativa Vitivinícola da Ilha do Pico Terras de Lava Branco 2019 (Açores). Very yellow in color, with hints of gold, showing shy aromas of crushed rocks, hay, and citrus. The palate is more about lemon oil, wax, and tropical fruit (mango/passion fruit). Medium-bodied, and has some really good intensity, with solid acidity. Some more minerality on the finish. Lively, but has the body to stand up to richer foods. Made from Arinto, Terrantez, and Verdelho. Drink now. About $15.

-  September 3, 2021

Château Cambon la Pelouse 2018 (Haut-Médoc). Shows lots of cedar notes on top of scents of cassis, warm cherries, dark tobacco, and black plums. There's even a hint of dark, wet soil. Has surprising concentration, with mocha and dark berry flavors, medium to full body, and ends with more of that cedar note. Tannins are youthful, but not harsh. Very well-done for a relatively inexpensive Haut-Médoc. Drink within 8 years. About $22.

-  September 1, 2021

Château Chatelier Bordeaux Blanc 2019. Made from 90% Sémillon with 10% Sauvignon Blanc, this offers bright, green apple and green melon scents, plus hints of runny cheese and white mushrooms. Solid acidity supports flavors of river rock, fresh herbs, and lime peel. Not complex, and lacks some depth, but is made for easy enjoyment at an easy price. Drink now. About $12.

Château Graville-Lacoste Graves Blanc 2019. Inviting ripe melon and apple scents are pleasing and fun, with notions of Meyer lemons and apricots mixed in. Fresh and zippy in the mouth, showing some concentration and depth, suggesting flavors of oranges, ripe pears, fresh herbs, fennel fronds, and peaches. Finishes with some minerality. Very enjoyable. Composed of 75% Sémillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Muscadelle. Drink now. About $22.

-  August 30, 2021

Cà Maiol Giomè 2018 (Benaco Bresciano). This is an interesting red from the shores of Lake Garda, made from Groppello, with smaller amounts of Marzemino, Barbera, and Sangiovese. There's a touch of balsamic vinegar on the nose, along with plums, brown sugar, red flowers, fennel, and cherries. Features some bright acidity on the attack, followed by more of those plum and cherry notes, then savory roasted sage flavors. A nice change of pace. Drink within a few years. About $15.

-  August 27, 2021

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Rosé Grand Cru Non-Vintage. Made from 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, this displays a copper/salmon/peach color, along with scents of blood oranges, raspberries, active yeast, and dark spices. Tastes like a bowl of crushed berries, plus pink grapefruit and Fuji apple. Racy acidity holds it all together. Very nicely done. This bottle was disgorged in July 2020, and feels a bit young. About $50.

-  August 24, 2021

Domaine du Cayron Gigondas 2017. Perfumed, generous nose, showing notions of underbrush, seaweed, red flowers, meat, roasted herbs, cherries, crushed rocks, lavender, and blueberries. Simply beautiful in the mouth, starting with a sense of elegance, then moving to power and structure, with lively acids holding up the red fruit flavors. Medium-bodied, and refined in texture. Maybe a touch of coffee and licorice on the long finish. From 40-70 year old vines. Outstanding now, but will last for at least 10 years. About $33.

-  August 17, 2021

Elvio Tintero Rosato. Made from 85% Barbera, 12% Arneis, and 3% Moscato, this is not vintage dated (due to DOC rules), but offers plenty of energy and vibrancy, showing notions of bright raspberries, talc, lemons, green grapes, and crushed limestone. Pale in color, light-bodied and zippy, this cries out for a summer picnic rather than contemplation. Drink now. About $15.

-  August 15, 2021

J. Dumangin Fis Champagne Brut Rosé Non-Vintage. Deep copper in color, with effusive scents of raspberries, cherries, oranges, active yeast, and cranberries. Lively and very intense in the mouth, this isn't for a delicate palate, with no shortage of crushed berry flavors, plus honey and blood orange. Zippy finish. Great with food. Mature, but not tired, this one was disgorged in September 2017, and is made of 47% Chardonnay, 37% Pinot Noir, and 16% Pinot Meunier. Drink within a few years. About $50.

-  August 5, 2021

Bodegas Gil Luna Sin Complejos 2018 (Toro). Made from organically grown Tempranillo grapes, this value bottling hints at dust initially, then gives way to plenty of blueberry, dark tobacco, black cherry, orange peel, and fresh coffee scents. Medium-bodied and generous, with black licorice, dark plum, and smoldering fire notes in the mouth. Ends with some toothy but ripe tannins along with some lift of acidity. Lots of intensity for this price. Drink within 6 years. About $13.

-  August 2, 2021

Hugues Godmé Champagne Brut Réserve Premier Cru Non-Vintage. With a very expressive nose, this jumps out at you with notions of red apples, honey, clementine, bread dough, lily, and ripe pear. More red apples on the palate, then orange marmalade, citrus oil, and graham cracker. Plenty of acidity and fabulous length. Outstanding. This version was disgorged in January 2019. Made from certified biodynamic 34% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay, and 33% Pinot Meunier. Drink now through 2027. About $59.

-  July 30, 2021

Costers del Priorat Petit Pissarres 2018 (Priorat). Offers real intensity on the nose, but also freshness, with notions of fresh red flowers, bright cherries, pomegranate, and orange peel, with hints of smoke and coffee. Dark and focused on the palate, leaning toward a roasted herb and iron quality, with the red fruit showing more on the finish, especially with some air. Cool stuff. Made from 60% Garnacha and 40% Samsó (Carignan) from organically farmed vineyards on slate soils. Drink now through 2028. About $22.

-  July 28, 2021

Stefano Massone Gavi Masera 2020. Very clear and pale in color, with a bright nose of lime peel, wet rock, white flowers, and white grapefruit. Refreshing and vibrant on the palate, showing lots of tangerine and white peach flavors, along with fresh shavings of coconut flesh. Nicely done for this price. Drink now. About $12.

-  July 21, 2021

Tikveš Winery Rkaciteli Special Selection 2018 (Tikveš). This is a first for me, an Rkaciteli (or Rkatsiteli) from the Republic of Macedonia (or North Macedonia), rather than the Greek wine region. Very clear and pale, with a hint of green color, followed by scents of green pears, river rock, and lime peel. Racy acidity frames almost juicy fresh lime and white grapefruit flavors, with suggestions of white peach and flowers. Ends with a pleasant astringent note. Not for those who love soft whites. Drink now. About $12.

-  July 19, 2021

Kumeu River Chardonnay Estate 2019 (Kumeu). I have yet to find Chardonnay from New Zealand that I enjoy more than those from Kumeu River. Boasting extreme elegance allied with robust intensity, this offers scents of ripe lemons, sea air, and white peaches, then hints of buttered hazelnuts. Has fantastic, electric acidity that zips its way through the citrus, fresh herb, stone fruit notes, with medium-body and purity. Ends with a hint of oak that's never intrusive or overbearing. Outstanding now, but will hold for six years or so. About $33.

-  July 14, 2021

La Craie Pouilly Fumé 2019. Shows a hint of cat's pee on the nose (as these sometimes do), but it's more about river rocks, white flowers, and white grapefruit. More generous in the mouth, with lots of citrus notes (lime peel, lemon juice), plus notions of tropical fruit (green mango, passion fruit) and pears. Ends stony and energetic. Drink now. About $20.

-  July 12, 2021

Sélection Laurence Féraud Plan Pégau 15-16-17 (Vin de France). Made from estate-grown fruit planted just outside Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this contains about 30% each Grenache and Syrah, plus 20% Merlot and other local and international grapes. Offers inky/iodine/seaweed aromas, plus freshly brewed coffee, blackberries, smoke, lavender, and cherries. More of that seaweed quality on the palate, with impressive intensity, then savory notions of wet leather and crushed rocks. Give this some air for the primary fruit to show up, like blueberries and crushed cherries. A multi-vintage blend from 2015, 2016, and 2017. Drink within 6 years. About $20.

-  July 5, 2021

Adega Regional de Colares Arenae Tinto Ramisco 2008 (Colares). A rare wine from a tiny appellation, composed of 100% Ramisco, from organic vines planted in sand dunes (on their own rootstock), within sight of the Atlantic Ocean. Shows its age with clear fading at the rim, along with scents of leather, dried orange peel, walnut, and dark tobacco. Lively on the palate, with acidity nearing the high side, but is balanced by very good intensity of dried cherry, blackberry, soy sauce, game, and forest floor notes. Aged for three years in large, 100 year-old Brazilian foudres. $30/500 ml.

-  July 2, 2021

Murgo Etna Bianco 2019. Shows focus and intensity on the nose, suggesting white flowers, lemon peel, river rocks, and hints of parsley. Very vibrant in the mouth, with a strong attack of electric acidity and mouthwatering citrus flavors, ending with lots of minerality and a white pepper note. Made from 70% Carricante and 30% Catarratto. Drink within a couple years. About $16.

-  June 29, 2021

Poggio al Casone La Cattura 2016 (Toscana). Made from organically grown Teroldego (90%) and Syrah (10%), this offers pretty scents of red roses, dried orange peel, raspberries, and green tobacco. Soft in tannin, but with acidity on the higher end, supporting flavors like cherries, blackberries, and dark, mushroomy earth. Medium-bodied, ending with a touch of spice and good freshness. Drink within 5 years. About $16.   

-  June 25, 2021

Moet & Chandon Brut Grand Vintage 2006. Intense aromas of honey, active bread dough, orange marmalade, red apples, and apricots. Rich and spicy in the mouth, covering the palate with baked apple pie flavors, along with plenty of acidity and verve. This is not a delicate version. Ends with a preserved lemon note. Fantastic stuff. Made from 42% Chardonnay, 39% Pinot Noir and 19% Pinot Meunier. Drink now through 2026. About $70.

-  June 23, 2021

La Valentina Pecorino Colline Pescaresi 2018. Lemon-yellow in color, and offering scents of wax, lanolin, mixed citrus fruits, straw, and dark, leafy greens. Some hints of dust too, but the palate is fresh and invigorating, showing clean lemon notes, as well as fuji apple and orange peel. Ends with a pleasant bitter almond/salty quality. Drink now. About $17.

-  June 16, 2021

Domaine des Tilleuls Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Essentielle 2019. Like white flowers and grapefruit rind on the nose, with a palate that's bracingly acidic and zippy, featuring notions of lime peel, tangerines, and white peach. Ends with a wax note, then that salty ocean air quality, with surprising persistence. Drink within a couple years, preferably on a fun, hot summer day at the beach. About $13.

-  June 14, 2021

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (St. Helena). Shows beautiful, developed scents of cassis, crushed blackberries, coffee, vanilla, milk chocolate, fall leaves, melted licorice, and hints of dark spices. Gorgeous, caressing texture, that's full-bodied but not heavy, along with outstanding intensity. The purity of fruit stands out, showing that someone cared about these grapes, with lots of dark plum and black cherry notes. Ends with toasty espresso quality. Outstanding. Drink within 8 years. About $60.   

-  June 9, 2021

Filipa Pato D.N.M.C. Dinamica Branco 2019 (Bairrada). Made from biodynamically farmed Bical (80%) and Arinto (20%), this exhibits beautiful freshness and vibrancy on the nose, like crushed shells and white flowers, with hints of citrus peel. Has that dry, saline quality on the palate, showing high, but enjoyable acidity, buffered by juicy tangerine/red grapefruit and white peach flavors. It practically cries out for grilled fish. Drink now. About $17.

-  June 7, 2021

Château Pesquié Rosé Terrasses 2020. Produced from organic grapes and exhibiting a relatively pale hue, this offers pretty strawberry, kaffir lime, flower petal, and raspberry scents, with a palate that's zippy and fresh. Inviting and easy to enjoy, but not boring or cookie-cutter, showing great refinement and verve. Drink now. About $15.

-  June 2, 2021

Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret Petit Chablis 2018. This is our type of Chardonnay, exhibiting beautiful freshness and mid-palate intensity, with notions of white peach, apricot, and lemon peel, all the while having minerality and verve. Finishes with a hint of mint and ripe oranges, with surprising length. Very well-made. About $23.

-  May 31, 2021

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Mégaphone 2019 (Ventoux). Love the underbrush quality on the nose, or it could come across as roasted herbs and warm rocks. Then there are some iodine and seaweed scents, with hints of strawberry and plum. Medium-bodied, and showing both freshness and ripe red fruit, ending with an iron note and a sense of restraint. Made from 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah. Drink within 6 years. About $23.

-  May 27, 2021

Château Gantonnet Bordeaux Blanc 2019. The significant percentage of Semillon and Muscadelle in this really shows (30% and 20%, respectively), with lots of honeydew melon, peach, and green grape notes, both on the nose and palate. But there are also the Sauv Blanc qualities of mown grass, bell pepper, orange peel, clementine, and fresh herbs. Fresh and vibrant, but this is not a light weight wine, with medium body and great mid-palate intensity and length. Some tropical fruit notes emerge with air. Great value. Drink within 5 years. About $12.

-  May 19, 2021

Cà dei Frati Lugana I Frati 2018. Features striking minerality and focus, with no shortage of electric lemon scents and flavors, plus crushed rocks, fresh herbs, and white peach notes. Surprising levels of intensity on the mid-palate make this stand out, with a finish that pumps out white grapefruit flavors that are zippy and invigorating. Drink within a couple years. About $22.

-  May 12, 2021

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Knights Valley). The 2017 was not a bad wine by any means, but the 2018 is clearly better, displaying more purity and intensity, both on the nose and palate. Scents are dominated by beautiful cassis and plum notes, along with coffee and anise. Medium-bodied, and has some restraint, bordering on elegance, with flavors of crushed berries and orange peel. The oak is not overdone, and the finish glides along with refined tannins, acidity, and more ripe fruit. Drink now through 2030. About $28.

-  May 10, 2021

Ribeiro Santo Encruzado Pinha 2020 (Dão). Vibrant lemon scents, with some minerality as well as peach notes. Medium-bodied and having very good intensity for the price, with more of that minerality, plus citrus oil flavors and notions of fresh herbs. Holds your interest, with surprising length and excellent acidity. Drink within 5 years. About $17.

-  May 7, 2021

Corte dei Papi Colle Ticchio 2018 (Cesanese del Piglio). Stainless steel fermented and aged, this Lazio red from a tiny appellation brims with bright cherry, pomegranate, cola, plum, and red flower scents. Medium-bodied, and having moderate, youthful tannin and acidity. There's a notion of dark, bitter greens to this, but it adds interest to the ripe red fruit flavors, ending with more than a hint of minerality. Drink now through 2028. About $17.

-  May 5, 2021

Peyrassol Rosé La Croix 2020 (Méditerraée). Pretty, pale salmon color, with scents of raspberries, red and white flowers, citrus peel, and tart cherries. Very fresh and lively on the palate, but also has entertaining, delicious red fruit flavors and admirable presence. Can't wait to have this on a summer picnic, as it would pair with almost anything in the basket. Made from 50% Grenache, 40% Cinsault, and 10% Syrah. Drink within a couple years. About $15.

-  May 3, 2021

Quinta de Soalheiro Alvarinho Granit 2016 (Vinho Verde). Coming from vineyards planted between 150 and 250 meters, this exhibits outstanding minerality and verve, like river rocks and crushed stone paired with fantastic acidity. Notions of lemon, white peach, green mango, and orange peel. Vibrant, palate cleansing, and not at all tired at 5 years of age. Shows class. Drink within a couple years. About $18.

-  April 28, 2021

Seigneurs d'Aiguilhe 2015 (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux). Forward without being simple or uninteresting, this offers pleasing plum, cherry, coffee, smoke, and blueberry scents that show focus and purity. Medium-bodied and having fine, ripe tannins, with more of those plum and cherry notes on the palate, ending with hints of fall leaves and graphite. Mostly Merlot, and a great value for early drinking Bordeaux. About $19.

-  April 26 2021

Domaine Jean Deydier & Fils Châteauneuf du Pape Les Clefs d'Or 2015. Has that seaweed/iodine quality on the nose and palate, along with savory underbrush notes to go with the dark fruit. Shows freshness. Medium to full-bodied, with notions of coffee grounds, blackberries, cherries, and soy sauce. Excellent balance, integration, and intensity. Made from 65% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah and the rest a blend of 10% Cinsault, Muscardin, Counoise and Vaccarèse. Drink now through 2029. About $45.

-  April 19,  2021

Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc 2020 (Walker Bay). Features plenty of minerality and vibrancy, both on the nose and palate, plus notions of river rocks, lemons, white flowers, white peach, grass, and green bell peppers. It's the acidity that keeps you coming back, without being too lean. Clearly well-made. Drink now. About $16.

-  April 15, 2021

Lagar da Condesa Albariño Kentia 2019 (Rías Baixas). From the Gil Family Estates comes this lively and easily enjoyable summer white, featuring plenty of acidity and crushed rock notes, along with focused white peach and lemon qualities. Very lively, and has surprising length, ending with flavors of fresh herbs and tangerines. Drink now. About $13.

-  April 12, 2021

Laurent Perrachon Juliénas Roche Bleue 2018. The nose is quietly beautiful, offering focused cherry, raspberry, and cola notes that are bright and surprisingly intense, but isn't overbearing. Refined texture. Elegant, but almost full-bodied and generous. Everything seems in place, with both dark fruit and lighter elements, then notions of spice. Nicely done. Drink within 6 years. About $19.

-  April 9, 2021

G.D. Vajra Langhe Rosso 2019. Pretty, moderate ruby color, with effusive scents of red roses, tart cherry, green tobacco, and orange rind, then a palate showing some decent tannins and medium body. Shows freshness and pleasant floral notes, with hints of tar and dark earth. Impressive for the price. Drink within 6 years. About $15.

-  April 5, 2021

Lunar Apogé Côtes du Rhône 2019. Demeter certified, and made from 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre, and 10% Cinsault, this shows lots of lavender qualities on the nose, plus blackberries, tart cherries, savory herbs, and wet soil, with freshness and vibrancy. That freshness continues on the palate, with great focus and purity to the fruit flavors. Medium body. Nicely done! Great with pork chops. Drink now through 2027. About $23.

-  April 1, 2021

Masi Amarone Classico Costasera 2013. Offers a pretty perfume of red flowers paired with dark spices, tobacco, vanilla, dark plums, coffee, anise, and blackberries. Full-bodied, rich, and harmonious, showing very good balance and concentration, with plenty of dark fruit and savory notes, suggesting soy sauce and balsamic. Fresh and lively. Made from 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, and 5% Molinara. Great now through 2030. About $60.

-  March 29, 2021

Jean Laurent Champagne Brut Blanc de Noirs La Griffe de l'Ource 2008. More than a touch golden in color, having a complex nose reminiscent of baked red apples, active bread dough, cloves, ginger, mushrooms, and lemon zest. Showing lots of body and flavor, this is no delicate version, showing notions of butterscotch, candied orange peel, apples, raspberries, and toffee. Long and harmonious, with plenty of acidity and outstanding intensity. Pairs well with a COVID vaccine. This isn't likely to get any better with age, but will hold for another 6 years or more. About $60.

-  March 27, 2021

Ken Wright Pinot Noir Abbott Claim 2017 (Yamhill-Carlton). Bright ruby color, with scents of fresh cherries, green tobacco, red flowers, cinnamon, raspberries, and hints of dust. Very, very refined texture that's both caressing and structured, supporting dark, meaty, spicy notes as well as red fruit. Impressive focus and length, with superb acidity to maintain interest. Beautiful. Drink now through 2030. About $60.

-  March 18, 2021

Talamonti Pecorino Trabocchetto 2018 (Colline Pescaresi). Give this some air so that the hint of body aroma burns off, because it's more about scents of citrus, wax, white flowers, and erasers. Clean and vibrant on the palate, where the flavors of orange blossom dominate, with touches of white peach and pear. Good intensity, and plenty of acidity. Finishes with some of that blanched almond quality. Would be great with grilled calamari. Drink now. About $16.

-  March 15, 2021

Rui Roboredo Madeira Beyra Reserva Quartz 2019 (Beira Interior). Made from half Síria and half Fonte Cal, this offers plenty of minerality on both the nose and palate, like a pile of clean river rocks, paired with lots of zippy acidity and freshness. Notions of limes, lemons, and fresh herbs, with a moderate finish. Very energetic. Drink now. About $15.

-  March 12, 2021

Mas Alta Black Slate La Vilella Alta 2017 (Priorat). Deep ruby color and fantastic, complex aromas of black cherries, camp smoke, licorice, freshly brewed coffee, crushed rocks, blueberries, and milk chocolate. An amazing value, offering impressive depth of flavor and intensity, but allied with freshness and persistence. Layers of ripe, but not overdone black and red fruit sail along effortlessly, with medium to full-bodied texture. Made from Garnatxa, Carinyena, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. Drink within 8 years. About $24.

-  March 10, 2021

Château Promis 2018 (Entre-Deux-Mers). Made from 85% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Semillon, and 5% Muscadelle, this is very grassy and fresh on the nose, with suggestions of green bell pepper, limes, and river rocks. Not complex in the mouth, but zesty and easy to enjoy, with plenty of acidity to keep the palate awake. What it lacks in complexity it makes up for in value. Try with grilled vegetables. Drink now. About $12.

-  March 5, 2021

Fremondo Falanghina del Sannio 2019. Shows some depth of color, as well as some surprising intensity on the nose, with complex notions of lemons, wax, red apples, ripe pear, apricots, white flowers, and hints of honey. Has solid acidity to support the ripe citrus flavors, then an almond note, with a subtle, savory green herb quality on the finish. Holds your interest, for not a lot of money. Drink now. About $13.

-  March 3, 2021

Bodegas El Nido Clio 2015 (Jumilla). Heady, dark, and intense, showing scents of black licorice, blackberries, coffee, chocolate, vanilla, and blueberries. Full-bodied and ripe, this is no shy wine, with deep extraction and plenty of black fruit and anise flavors. Still, it shows freshness and balanced acidity, finishing long and intense. This is 16% alcohol, so take it slow. 70% Monestrell and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink within 8 years. About $50.

-  February 28, 2021

Paula Kornell Brut Non-Vintage (California). Made from 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir, this offers some richness, showing notions of brioche, wax, ripe yellow apples, cream, peaches, lemon oil, pears, and honey. There's plenty of acidity to hold it together, and lingers with a red berry note through the finish. Drink now. About $18.

-  February 24, 2021

Château Pesquie Terrasses 2018 (Ventoux). Hints of funk on the nose, but there's also plenty of red cherries, seaweed, boysenberry, and herbal notes. Fresh and pure in the mouth, and having a sense of restraint that doesn't hit you over the head. There's enough red and dark fruit to carry this along, plus an iodine and black pepper quality. Medium-bodied. Made from 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah. Drink within 6 years. About $16.

-  February 22, 2021

Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2011. Pretty garnet color. Beautifully scented, like a bouquet of fresh red roses, plus notions of blackberries, cherries, anise, orange rinds, tar, and freshly brewed coffee. Stunning, lithe texture that floats across the palate, delivering classic Nebbiolo flavors, like dried cherries, tobacco, earthy mushrooms, all with with elegance and charm. Fine, aged tannins support the long finish. At a gorgeous stage of development, this may not get any better, but will certainly last for another 8 years. About $55.   

- February 18, 2021

Bailly-Lapierre Saint Bris 2018. A Sauvignon Blanc from a relatively tiny appellation near Chablis, this offers scents/flavors of white flowers, white grapefruit, lime zest, grass, and hints of green bell pepper. Has plenty of bracing acidity, but isn't out of balance, ending clean, with a river rock note. Drink now. About $15.

-  February 14, 2021

La Encomienda de Cervera AnaNoa Blanco 2017 (Vino de la Tierra Castilla). A river rock hint on the nose, but this is mostly shy, with a touch of citrus. The palate is loaded with flavors of lemons however, plus green pears and subtle peach. Plenty of flavor for a value white, with matched acidity and freshness. Fun to drink. Ready now. Made from 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Verdejo. About $16.

-  February 11, 2021

Casa Ferreirinha Branco Planalto Reserva 2018 (Douro). Offers a mineral edge to the white peach, lemon, green apple, and fresh herb notes. Plenty of lively acidity and a crushed rock quality on the finish. Light, fresh, and suited for early drinking with fried fish. Made from 20% Viosinho, 20% Malvasia Fina, 15% Gouveio, 15% Arinto, 15% Códega, 10% Rabigato, and 5% Moscatel. About $15.

-  February 8, 2021

Domaine Faiveley Montagny 2018. A hint of green color, then scents of tart apple, lemons, orange rind, and wet stone. Bright, clean and fresh in the mouth, showing medium body and great purity to the citrus flavors, then hints of mango and pear. Some spicy oak reveals itself on the finish. Drink within a couple years. About $20.

-  February 5, 2021

Domaine de Villegeai Coteaux du Giennois Rive Droite 2018. A Sauvignon Blanc from a small appellation in the Loire, exhibiting a touch of slate on the nose, bordering on smoke, plus hints of grass and lemon peel. Brisk in the mouth, with plenty acidity and more of that rocky note, then a bit of tropical fruit, like green guava and pineapple. Finishes clean, with a pleasant bell pepper and tart lime quality. Drink now. About $15.

-  February 3, 2021

Betz Family Winery Clos de Betz 2015 (Columbia Valley). Very beautiful nose, showing notions of dark plums, red cherries, lavender, freshly brewed coffee, and milk chocolate. This makes you smile just sniffing it. Going in for a taste, it showers you with dense blackberry, cassis, mocha, and licorice flavors on a full-bodied frame that's held together with fine, ripe tannins and superb balance. Refined texture. Very, very well-made, ending with a shitake mushroom note. Made from  75% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot. Great now, but will last another15 years. About $65.

-  January 31, 2021

Loveblock Pinot Noir 2018 (Central Otago). Not dark and intense in color, but pretty and fragrant on the nose, with youthful scents of sweet/tart cherries, plums, and strawberries. Medium-bodied, offering ripe berry fruit flavors grounded by hints of tobacco, spices, and dark earth. Lively acidity. It's the polished texture that makes this stand out. From sustainably farmed vineyards, this is an excellent value. Drink now through 2030. About $26.

-  January 29, 2021

Les Vignerons D’ Estézargues Côtes du Rhône Blanc Les Grandes Vignes 2019. There's a waxy/oily quality on the nose, along with lemon rind, yellow apples, anise, and orange preserves. Shows some richness and body, with more of that waxy note on the palate, then ripe pears and stone fruit. Finishes clean, with a pleasant bitterness. Would be great with rich fish or a roasted chicken. Made from 70% Grenache Blanc, 10% Clairette, 10% Bourboulenc, and 10% Viognier. Drink within a couple years. About $15.

-  January 24, 2021

La Chablisienne Petit Chablis Pas Si Petit 2018. Steely focus and surprising intensity, with notions of lime zest, lemons, tangerines, crushed stones, and fresh herbs on both the nose and palate. Features very good length and lots of zippy acidity. On the lean side of things, but certainly isn't boring or tiresome, in fact, it's that acidity that keeps you coming back. Drink now, with some roasted white fish. About $22.

-  January 20, 2021

Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs 2016 (North Coast). Made from 81% Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay, this exhibits an elegant chalky character on the nose, plus complex notions of lemon zest, pastry cream, cranberries, bread dough, and raspberries. Has volume and intensity in the mouth, with flavors of citrus and red berries to spare, finishing long, dry and with plenty of verve. Pairs well with an inaguration. Drink within 6 years. About $38.

-  January 18, 2021

Vincent Paris Crozes-Hermitage 2018. Like lavender, iron, smoke, tar, and wild berries on the nose, with hints of black pepper and underbrush. Medium-bodied, showing precision and focus, with supportive acidity that matches the dark fruit and coffee flavors. Savory, spicy finish. Great with barbecue. Drink now through 2028. About $21.

-  January 15, 2021

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (St. Helena). Mature, but still lively at twelve years of age, this is like a smoldering campfire on the nose, along with notions of cassis, old leather, licorice, soy sauce, cherries, and shitake mushrooms. Full-bodied and rich, but has great energy to support the wealth of red and black fruit flavors, ending long, with more of that licorice note, then some dark, dark spices. Drink within 6 years. About $45.

-  January 10, 2021

Château d’Épiré Savennières 2016. A river rock quality on the nose, plus lime peel, pear, and a hint of rubber. Features crackling acidity, with focus to spare, as well as admirable length. Flavors include orange blossom, green apple, and a saline note that evokes the seaside. As it warms, a touch of honey emerges. Very elegant, and pairs well with snow crab. Drink now through 2027. About $25.

-  January 8, 2021

Château Gaudin 2011 (Pauillac). Really pretty scents here, suggestive of graphite, cassis, plums, vanilla, and coffee. Shows refinement, both on the nose and palate, with a sense of elegance and a caressing, medium-bodied texture. Fine tannins, finishing with lavender, tobacco, and espresso notes. The midpalate could use more volume, but otherwise this is nicely done. Drink now through 2028. About $45.

-  January 6, 2021

Cantina del Taburno Falanghina del Sannio 2019. If you love notions of crushed up white rocks, then this wine is for you. This is vibrant, pure, and clean, with flavors of lemons, green pear, and grapefruit, but mostly it's the saline, chalky quality that drives this, plus racy acidity and focus. Drink now. About $14.

-  January 4, 2021

Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon Cuvée Alexandre Apalta 2018 (Colchagua Valley). Deep ruby in color, with hints of dust on the nose, but mostly black cherries, cassis, smoke, and charcoal, with very good intensity. Shows purity. Starts off a bit slow, but the mid-palate is expressive of coffee, chocolate, red/black fruits, and mint. Some anise on the finish. Supportive, fine tannins and medium body. Well-made. Drink now through 2029. About $24.

-  December 27, 2020

We opened many outstanding bottles in 2020 -- we're guessing that it was a response to a global pandemic. So it was especially difficult to narrow down our favorite wine recommendations this year, and we had to leave out some very impressive candidates. The ones below best reflect our desire to recommend wines of diverse origin, excellent quality, and high value:

#1  Bollinger Champagne Brut La Grande Année 2005

#2  Château Pavie 1999 (Saint Emilion)

#3  Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2012 (Napa Valley)

#4  Muga Rioja Reserva Selección Especial 2014

#5  Leclerc Briant Champagne Extra Brut 2009

#6  Domaine la Bouïssiere Gigondas 2015

#7  Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2010

#8  Bodega Numanthia Numanthia 2012 (Toro)

#9  Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (St. Helena)

#10  Fèlsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia 2010

Honorable mentions:

Calabretta Bianco Cala Cala 2018 (Terre Siciliane)

Pierre Paillard Champagne Extra Brut Grand Cru Bouzy Les Parcelles XII Non-Vintage

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2012

Domaine Cheveau Mâcon Solutré-Pouilly Sur Le Mont 2017

Kelley Fox Wines Pinot Noir Momtazi Vineyard 2015 (McMinnville)

The Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Mount Veeder)


-  December 16, 2020

Celler Cal Pla Black Slate Porrera 2017 (Priorat). Aromatically, this is touch dusty, but it's more like a crushed rock notion, like the llicorella soils this comes from. Then there are suggestions of black cherries and blueberries, and a bit of anise. Full-bodied, and just plain delicious in the mouth, with lots of primary red fruit paired with flavors of freshly brewed coffee, dark plums, and licorice. Ends with some spicy tannins and verve. We can't recall a poor vintage of this, and it once again represents an outstanding value for this appellation. Drink now through 2028. About $23.

-  December 13, 2020

Herrigoia Rioja Alvesa 2019. Youthful, energetic nose, like strawberries and pomegranates that are bright and fresh. A bit deeper on the palate, with darker fruit and notions of coffee and dark spice, but still shows carbonic qualities. Medium-bodied. A solid value for this price. Drink within 5 years. About $14.

-  December 7, 2020

Groundwork Syrah 2018 (Santa Barbara County). There's a real sense of freshness on the nose, featuring bright notions of strawberries, cherries, cola, and subtle dark spices. Plenty of lively, crushed berry flavors that are expressive and fun, but this is grounded by acidity and a peppery quality. Medium to full-bodied, with good length, this is not a heavy, dense Syrah, but one made with some restraint. Drink now through 2028. About $26.

-  December 4, 2020

Les Deux Moulins Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (Val de Loire). Fresh, inviting, and fun, featuring bright lime and green pear scents, with an underpinning of minerality. Uncomplicated, but not boring, with plenty of verve and citrus flavors, ending with chopped fresh herbs and white peach notes. Drink soon, while dreaming of the summer. About $12.

-  November 30, 2020

Fèlsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia 2010. Effusive nose, featuring violets, red berries, tart cherries, orange peel, coffee, and blackberries. Really perfumed, with some exotic spice notes creeping in. Plenty of tannins left, but they're not hard, supporting balanced acidity and dark fruit, tobacco, aged balsamic, and espresso flavors. This is a medium-bodied, focused, long, and expressive version, one that's totally enchanting. Ready now, or hold for 10 years. About $55.

-  November 25, 2020

d'Arenberg Shiraz The Dead Arm 2002 (McLaren Vale). Shows a sense of elegance on the nose, pairing red flowers and orange peel scents with blackberries, blueberries, vanilla, camp smoke, and freshly brewed coffee. Then there's a hint of eucalyptus and graphite. Full-bodied and not tired after18 years, with some grainy tannins evident behind the dark fruit and mocha flavors. Ends with a grilled meat quality. Not a generous, overt version, but impressive nonetheless. Drink within 5 years. About $55.

-  November 23, 2020

Cuatro Rayas Verdejo 2019 (Rueda). Lively nose, featuring grassy/herbal notes to go with tart stone fruit, lemon, green pear, and a hint of passion fruit. Fresh and inviting in the mouth, with plenty of acidity and focus. Not challenging, but fun to drink, and finishes clean. Made from organically grown grapes. Drink now. About $10.

Cuatro Rayas Tempranillo 2019 (Reuda). Made from organically grown grapes, this offers notions of creamy butter, baby powder, tart cherries, and cocoa powder on the nose. Youthful, with relatively high acidity, but grounded in dark, bitter chocolate flavors, as well as coffee and black fruit. Some surprising level of tannin on the finish suggest this would pair well with a rich winter stew. Drink within 6 years. About $10.

-  November 20, 2020

Vinícola del Priorat Clos Gebrat 2017 (Priorat). There's a medicinal note on the nose, like cough syrup combined with a little dust, licorice, cherries, crushed rocks, and smoke. Some real intensity on the attack, with a dark profile of blackberries, bitter chocolate, and savory rosted herbs. Powerful. Begs for rich meats. Made from 40% Garnacha, 35% Cariñena, 15% Merlot, 5% Syrah, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2028. About $23.

-  November 17, 2020

Bodega Garzón Albariño Reserva 2019 (Uruguay). Loaded with stone fruit, lime juice, and green pear aromas that are both focused and fun, followed by an energetic palate with similar notes, plus orange peel and some fresh herb qualities. Medium-bodied and very fresh, finishing with verve. Nicely done. Drink now. About $17.

-  November 15, 2020

Bollinger Champagne Brut La Grande Année 2005. Golden in color and exhibiting, stunning, effusive scents of honey, pie crust, butterscotch, red apples, graham cracker, and preserved lemons. Full-bodied, with more honey and nuts on the attack, then the rich baked apple, red berry, and dark spice notes, followed by a very long finish showing citrus, white flowers, and exotic fruit. Very intense and very impressive. Made from 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. Drink within 8 years. About $135.

-  November 12, 2020

Bodega Norton Privada 2016 (Mendoza). Saturated ruby color, with hints of purple, this blend of 40% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 30% Merlot offers ripe, penetrating scents of plums, lavender, coffee, chocolate, black cherries, cassis, and heavy cream. Full-bodied, with very good intensity and fine tannins that frame mocha-coated red and dark fruit flavors. Maybe a touch hot on the finish, where some licorice notes emerge, but this is clearly a well-made wine. Drink within 5 years. About $24.

-  November 4, 2020

Calabretta Bianco Cala Cala 2018 (Terre Siciliane). Stainless steel fermented and aged, this offers lots of minerals on the nose, with hints of white flowers and tart citrus. Like crushed rocks on the attack, then delicious white peach, lemon, and orange peel notes. Driving acidity keeps this interesting, and its no lightweight wine, showing more body than one might expect, plus a dark, lanolin quality on the finish. Grillo. Drink now. About $21.

-  November 1, 2020

Douro Prime Touriga Nacional Inquieto 2009 (Douro). Shows intensity on the nose, like dried roses, black cherries, violets, blackberries, boysenberries, licorice, and Dr. Pepper. Medium to full-bodied, with impressive density of flavor, exhibiting a medicinal note to go with the waves of dark fruit, plus a hint of leather and smoke. Good uplift of acidity on the finish. Tannins have been tamed by time, but they're evident enough to go with a grilled steak. Great value! Drink within 8 years. About $20.

-  October 26, 2020

Cantina San Marino Biancale di San Marino 2019. Stainless steel fermented and aged, this 100% Biancale is expressive of lemons, fresh herbs, crushed limestone, and lemon verbena. There's a saline, next to the ocean quality here, kind of like a Muscadet, but with more weight, and minus the lees aging. Notions of white peach, almond, and Meyer lemon, then some pleasant bitterness on the finish. Really interesting. Drink now. About $23.

-  October 22, 2020

Domaine des 2 Ânes Corbières L'Enclos 2015. Offers impressive scents of underbrush, blackberries, iron, beef blood, squid ink, and cherries. Medium to full-bodied, with excellent intensity and focus, this shows a crushed limestone quality throughout, along with notions of wild berries and singed herbs. Nicely balanced acidity, with supportive tannins. Made from biodynamic certified vineyards, and composed of 50% Grenache, 20% Carignnan, 20% Mourvedre, and 10% Syrah. Drink now through 2028. About $26.

-  October 19, 2020

La Battistina Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi Nuovo Quadro 2019. Very clear straw color, with scents of minerals, green pear, lime zest, and white peach. Shows real generosity in the mouth, with almost juicy notions of ripe blood orange, peach, passion fruit, and some grassy notes, paired with zippy acidity, and more of that mineral note on the finish. Clearly better than the regular Gavi bottling. Great stuff!. Drink within a couple years. About $25.

-  October 16, 2020

Gota Prunus 2018 (Dão). Made from 50% Encruzado, 15% Malvasia Fina, 15% Bical, 15% Cerceal Branco, and 5% other varietals, this offers deftly balanced mineral, tart citrus, and floral scents, with hints of white peach. Show solid, refreshing acidity and more of those mouthwatering mineral notes on the palate, with zero oak influence to weigh it down. Finishes clean and energetic. Drink now, maybe with some fried calamari. About $15.

-  October 14, 2020

Paolo Scavino Barolo 2012. Really pretty, classic scents of red roses, cherries, tar, and hints of tobacco, this shows elegance and refinement, but is not holding back in aroma. Medium-bodied, fresh and very Nebbiolo, having both solid acidity and fine tannins, layered on dried fruit notes. Very slightly lacking in generosity, but it's a minor quibble. Drink now through 2026. About $40.

-  October 5, 2020

Le Mesnil Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Non-Vintage. Intense and impressive nose, like lemon peel, green apples, white flowers, candied oranges, and active yeast. The attack is fantastic, hitting your palate with tons of pure citrus flavors, then moving to waves of tart apple and fresh ginger. Piercing, mouthwatering acidity drives the wealth of flavor forward, with fine, lively bubbles and a long finish. Outstanding. Drink within 5 years. About $50.

-  October 1, 2020

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico RS 2017. Smoke and leather notes are evident on the nose, along with soy sauce, lavender, rosemary, and tart cherries. This is a more savory style of Chianti Classico, with lots of dense umami flavors paired with solid acidity and tannins that lean toward chunky. Some fruit peeks out on the finish. A good value, and even better with some grilled meat. Drink within 6 years. About $15.

-  September 28, 2020

Château Simian Jeu de Rolle 2019 (Vin de France). Very clear, with a bright, pale straw color, then a nose suggesting ashtray, lemons, and parsley. More of those fresh herb qualities in the mouth, plus notions of tart orange and green apple. Very zippy and fresh, this is meant for the last days of summer and some fried calamari. In France this is Rolle, but you might know it as Vermentino. Drink now. About $13.

-  September 25, 2020

Occhipinti SP68 Rosso 2018 (Terre Siciliane).  Made from Frappato and Nero D'Avola, this offers a bright ruby color, with scents of cranberry, raspberry, red apple skins, and a stemmy quality. Bright in the mouth, with driving acidity, but is not shrill or out of balance, with flavors of red plums and bing cherries, ending with green tobacco leaf. Medium in body. Interesting. Serve this with a bit of chill and a charcuterie plate. Drink within 5 years. About $28.

-  September 23, 2020

Secoli Amarone della Valpolicella 2016. Slightly shy nose, suggesting ripe cherries and tobacco. This is not a heavy, rich Amarone, but a brighter style, expressing purity in cherry/blueberry flavors, with notions of singed herbs and anise. Starts out with a blast of fruit, then moves to darker notes, like a touch of soy sauce. It's 15%, but is not hot or tiresome. Drink now through 2028. About $30.

-  September 21, 2020

Domaine Cheveau Mâcon Solutré-Pouilly Sur Le Mont 2017. Hint of green color. Love the crushed up limestone qualities, along with scents of white peach, lemon, green pear, and orange peel. Vibrant and pure in the mouth, with some generosity as well as medium-body. Finishes with energy and focus, with more of that orange peel note coming out, balancing the stone fruit. Really enjoyable. Drink within a couple years. About $25.

-  September 14, 2020

Kelley Fox Wines Pinot Noir Momtazi Vineyard 2015 (McMinnville). From a Biodynamic certified vineyard comes this ruby colored beauty, offering an elegant nose of sweet cherries, underbrush, spring flowers, pomegranate, and hints of tobacco and caramel. Dense with dark and red fruit, but medium-bodied, it's complex, structured, and serious, with abundant tannin and a savory edge, like bay leaf, dark spices, and dried orange rind. Shows refinement, as well as longevity. Drink now through 2030. About $45.

-  September 11, 2020

Château Reynon Bordeaux Blanc 2016. Dominated by the scent of crushed oyster shells initially, then notions of fresh herbs, lemon, stone fruit, and green pepper. Very bright and zippy in the mouth, and reminiscent of a freshly mown lawn, then more of that green bell pepper note and citrus peel. If you don't like grassy Sauvignon Blanc, this isn't for you, but this reviewer thinks it's a lot of fun, and loves the energetic finish. Drink now. About $18.

-  September 9, 2020

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (St. Helena).  Opaque, deep ruby color all the way to the rim, with fantastic, generous scents of crushed red and black berries, cassis, cherries, then a hint of coffee and tobacco. Very full-bodied and plush in the mouth, loaded with fruit, plus black coffee and licorice on the finish. Later, a wave of blueberries emerges. Shows excellent purity. Very Napa, but not too heavy or burdensome, with enough acidity and fine grained tannins. Stunning. Drink now or hold for another 15 years. About $50.

-  September 6, 2020

Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2010. The color hints at this wine's age, like clear garnet, fading at the rim. The nose is very, very pretty, reminiscent of red roses, cherries, dried orange peel, tobacco, spice drawer, and hints of tar. Gorgeous texture, with mellowed refinement at 10 years, but still has stout tannins, it's just that they surround your palate, not stab at it. Very harmonious. Very Nebbiolo. More of those cherries on the mid-palate, but now they are dried, along with notions of anise and coffee. Gorgeous. Drink within six years. About $50.

-  September 3, 2020

R. Dumont & Fils Champagne Extra Brut 2009. Disgorged in July 2018, this hints at gold in color, then a generous nose of honey, preservered oranges, active yeast, lemon rind, caramel, and sweet flowers. With lots of body and impressive intensity, it grabs your palate with apple, spice, and citrus flavors, ending with fantastic length and harmony. Drink within 5 years. About $60.

-  August 31, 2020

Colomé Malbec Auténtico 2017 (Salta). Very deep in color, showing the extreme high altitude that these grapes are grown in (the Calchaquí Valley, at more than 7500 feet), this has fantastic purity on the nose, like wild berries, tobacco, anise, plums, and cherries. Sees no oak, so the fruit is pure and vibrant, but also dark and intense in the mouth. Medium-bodied. Shows class. Not your average mass-market Malbec. Drink within 8 years. About $30.

-  August 28, 2020

Saint Aix Rosé 2019 (Coteaux d' Aix-En-Provence). Relatively pale in color, with pretty scents of fresh raspberries, oranges, rose petal, and some chalky notes. Vibrant, fresh, and easy to like, having more light berry qualities in the mouth, plus watermelon and peach. On the lighter side, so don't wait for a winter dish to pair this with. More like the beach. Cinsault, Grenache, and Syrah. About $18.

-  August 25, 2020

Cieck Erbaluce di Caluso 2018. Clean and uncomplicated, but not boring, with a no shortage of crushed rock notes on both the attack and finish. The midpalate is more about lemons, green pear, and some pleasant bitterness. Austere, but energetic. Drink now. About $18.

-  August 22, 220

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Brut Premier Cru Platine Non-Vintage. Made from 63% Pinot Noir, 23% Chardonnay, and 14% Pinot Meunier, this show a hint of bright gold color, with aromas suggesting baked apples, Meyer lemon, brioche, red berries, and tangerine. Lots of body and some richness that coats the mouth with precise fresh citrus and apple flavors, then honey and orange preserves. A bolder style, but with plenty of freshness and acidity. This bottle was disgorged in July 2019. Wonderful now, or hold for a few years. About $40.

-  August 20, 2020

Glen Carlou Chardonnay Quartz Stone 2016 (Paarl). Medium-bodied, with a waxy/lanolin quality that contrasts with the dominant citrus flavors, plus green pear, under-ripe mango, and white flowers. There's some oak and subtle spice on the finish. With lots of acidity and a sense of refinement, this presents as a more elegant style. Drink now. About $28.

-  August 18, 2020

Stags' Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Napa Valley). The nose is slightly reserved, with notions of smoke, coffee, and smoldering fire, then undercurrents of blackberries and cassis. The palate is generous, however, with plenty of ripe black cherry and blackberry notes, but this is no overblown California Cab, showing some restraint, elegance, and solid acidity. Medium to full-bodied, ending with toasty qualities and a burst of mocha, dried herb, licorice, and blueberry. Drink now through 2030. About $50.

-  August 16, 2020

Château Beauchêne Côtes du Rhône Rosé Le Pavillon 2019. Pretty pink/orange color, with scents suggesting fresh cherries, citrus peel, raspberries, and something green, like celery. Fresh, zippy and very inviting, this starts off with lots of primary red fruit and verve, then moves toward darker fruit and a pleasant rocky note. Great value. Made from 35% Cinsault, 35% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre, and 15% Syrah. Great with some grilled pork. Drink now. About $12.

-  August 14, 2020

Jean-Pierre Large Morgon 2015. Shows real definition and concentration, with red floral notes to go with the raspberry, blueberry, red plum, and orange peel scents. Maybe a hint of glue. The palate features deft acidity on top of darker fruits, like boysenberry and blackberry, ending with a hint of green tobacco and refined tannins. Great purity. Drink now through 2026. About $20.

-  August 12, 2020

Château Fleur Clémence Blanc 2015 (Graves). Very grassy as a first impression, then moves to green melon, pear, nectarine, and green bell pepper notes. Made from 75% Semillon and 25% Sauvignon Gris, there's no shortage of freshness here, with a lingering fresh herb qualities that would pair well with a summer salad. Drink within a couple years. About $13.

-  August 8,  2020

Teo Costa Barolo Monroj 2015. A little bit of dust on the nose, then notions of dark cherries, plums, tobacco, leather, dark spices, and road tar. Made in a forward, ready to drink style, this is easy to appreciate for Barolo, with plenty of red fruit and tannins that aren't overbearing. Medium-bodied. Some solid acidity, keeping it alive and fresh. Good value for this appellation. Drink now through 2028. About $40.

-  August 6, 2020

Schramsberg Brut Rosé 2016 (North Coast). Made from 64% Pinot Noir and 36% Chardonnay, this offers a pretty copper/peach hue, then complex scents of raspberries, crushed cherries, lemon zest, cranberries, pink roses, and freshly squeezed orange juice. Really fun in the mouth, with lively mouthfeel and zippy acidity combined with purity of red and citrus fruit. Ends with class and length. Drink within a couple years. About $40.

-  August 4, 2020

Terres d'Avignon Côtes du Rhône Kermit Lynch 2017. What a value! Has a bit of that smoldering campfire quality to go with the underbrush, cherry, and graphite qualities. Then some notions of beef blood, blueberry, and rocks. Shows purity and focus. Demands a meat pairing. Made from 48% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 8% Carignan, 6% Cinsault, and 3% Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2024. About $15.

-  August 2, 2020

Te Awa Albarino Left Field 2018 (Gisborne). Surprising levels of minerality here, reminiscent of river rocks or a limestone quarry, then notions of white peach, tart lemons, white flowers, and lime zest. Very zippy and fresh, this also features a solid finish for the price, where some fresh herb notes emerge. Drink now. About $12.

-  July 30, 2020

Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico 2015. Very Sangiovese, with lots of leather, cherry, tobacco, and dried orange peel scents, but there are also blue/black fruits too. Shows very good balance and round texture, with characteristic acidity, but moderate tannins, with the fruit showing up on the attack, then another wave through the finish. Nicely done. Drink within 5 years. About $20.

-  July 27, 2020

Kechris Genesis 2019 (Macedonia). Fresh, clear and inviting, especially in the summer, with a clean profile of lemons, white peach, green pear, and a touch of grass. Zippy acidity, and while modest in ambition, it isn't boring, ending with some minerality. Made from Sauvignon Blanc and Roditis. Drink now, with a seafood stew. About $12.

-  July 23, 2020

Tornatore Etna Rosso 2017. Clear, light ruby in color, with really pretty aromatics of rose petals, cherries, green tobacco, orange peel, and touch of cinnamon. Generous in the mouth, with fine tannins and savory dried herb qualities to go with the red fruit. With solid acidity and freshness, this would pair with anything from a red pasta dish to a roast lamb. Great value too. Made from 95% Nerello Mascalese and 5% Nerello Cappuccio. Drink within 6 years or so. About $24.

-  July 20, 2020

Bodega Numanthia Numanthia 2012 (Toro). Made from Tinta de Toro vines of at least 50 years of age, and clocking in at 15% alcohol, this offers penetrating, deep scents of black cherries and dark plums on top of plentiful oak notes, like vanilla, chocolate, and roasted coffee. It's more about the fruit on the palate, with an array of blue and black berries supported by fine tannins and moderate acidity. Shows impressive density of flavor and length, with power to spare. Ready now, but will last another six years to eight years. About $55.

-  July 15, 2020

Chateau Pavie 1999 (Saint Emilion). Shows faded brick red color along the rim, with a striking, beautiful nose, reminiscent of dried roses, red cherries, plums, orange peel, and hints of caramel, tea, and coffee. Just gorgeous in the mouth, with a caressing texture and evolved tannins that support notions of black cherries, smoky bacon, and plums, with a licorice component and long finish. Show its age, but is not at all tired or over-the-hill. Really pretty. Made from 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Wonderful now, but will hold for another 8 years or so. About $200.

-  July 12, 2020

Nortico Alvarinho 2018 (Minho). What a wonderful surprise of a white, showing delicious, crunchy acidity and fruit, along with purity and focus. Tastes of white peaches, oranges, limes, and green pear, with a palate-cleansing salinity to it too. Someone really cared about these grapes. A joy to drink with fried fish. About $14.

-  July 10, 2020

Hugh Hamilton Shiraz The Rascal 2016 (McLaren Vale). Smoke and tobacco notes on top of blackberry and blueberry scents, with a touch of dark spice. Shows density of flavor, but isn't heavy, with enough acidity to balance the mocha, dark berry, and anise qualities. Moderate in finish, and shows real character for the price. Made from estate grown fruit. Drink within 5 years or so. About $20.

-  July 8, 2020

Vinos de Terruños Verdejo Vevi 2017 (Rueda). Made from grapes organically grown at 600 to 800 meters in elevation, this offers focused scents of green melon, pear, fresh herbs, and lemons. Like every version of citrus fruit in the mouth, with lots of acidity and freshness. Finishes clean, with a dash of crushed limestone providing interest through the surprisingly long close. Would be great with some steamed clams and a salad. Drink now. About $15.

-  July 6, 2020

Casale del Giglio Bellone Bianco 2018 (Lazio). From 60 year old, 100% Bellone vines, planted in sandy soils, comes this fresh, inviting white that exhibits scents of wax, nectarine, fresh herbs, and hints of mango/guava. There's more of that tropical fruit on the palate, plus lime zest, oranges, and peach, with plenty of acidity to keep it lively. Really pleasing with some crab legs. Drink now. About $15.

-  July 2, 2020

Llenca Plana 2017 (Montsant). Made from 70% Carignane and 30% Garnacha, this shows an energetic nose of ripe red cherries, raspberries, and hints of smoke. There's also a rocky quality to it, and not a ton of oak. Has some brightness too, keeping it mouthwatering, but also leans toward dark fruit, with very good intensity for the price. Alcohol sticks out a bit on the finish, but overall, this is a great wine to pair with grilled pork. Drink within a few years. About $17.

-  June 30, 2020

Jean–François Mérieau Le Bois Jacou 2018 (Touraine). This 100% Gamay from the Loire offers surprising depth for the price, showing some spiciness on the nose, like black pepper and clove, with the dominant fruits being cherries, prunes/plums. Plenty of acidity, and good density of flavor, with hints of iodine, weeds, and meat to go with the fruit. Great with meat braised in tomato sauce. Drink within 5 years. About $16.

-  June 24, 2020

Leclerc Briant Champagne Extra Brut 2009. Almost golden in color, with a pronounced, impressive nose of caramel, butterscotch, baked apple tarts, candied orange peel, and hints of lemon. This is no delicate bubbly. Broad-shouldered and intense, with flavors of ripe lemons, ginger, red apples, and pears. Finishes with plenty of verve. Makes you pay attention to it. Composed of 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, and 20% Pinot Meunier. Disgorged in June 2017. Would be awesome with a herbed roasted chicken. Mature, but will hold for five years or so. About $70.

-  June 19, 2020

Château Graville Lacoste Graves Blanc 2018. Bright and very clear in the glass, offering scents of freshly mown lawn, pomelo, green melons, and pears. No shortage of acidity, this tastes like it has more Sauvignon Blanc in it, with that green bell pepper and grass note rising to the top, but it's also well-balanced and pure, ending with some roundness to balance all that energy. Drink now. About $22.

-  June 15, 2020

Peyrassol Rosé La Croix 2019 (Mediterraée). Composed of Grenache, Cinsault, and a little Rolle, it's very pale in color, but definitely rosé, offering reticent scents of spring roses and citrus rind. Fresh and vibrant. Generous enough on the palate, like raspberries and cherries, but also bright and refreshing, with moderate intensity and finish. Great value. Good with roasted salmon and pesto. Drink now. About $14.

-  June 10, 2020

Pierre Paillard Champagne Extra Brut Grand Cru Bouzy Les Parcelles XII Non-Vintage. Outstanding. Made from estate-grown 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, this shows hints of a golden color, then aromas suggesting red apples, bread dough, white flowers, pears, and hints of spice-studded orange peel. Like orange marmalade and butterscotch in the mouth, along with notions of lemon balm and grated ginger. Very impressive and long. Disgorged in April 2017. Drink now through 2026. About $45.

-  June 5, 2020

Lelièvre Auxerrois 2018 (Côtes de Toul). Mostly lemon zest on the nose, plus hints of green pears, tangerine, and stone fruit. Energetic and lively in the mouth, this is not overflowing with flavors, but it's not boring either, with the acidity driving it forward toward a clean river rock note on the finish. Very much a summer wine. Drink now. About $19.

-  May 31, 2020

Citra Passerina Ferzo 2017 (Terre di Chieti). Clear, fresh, and bright, this Abruzzo white is reminiscent of ripe lemons, fresh green herbs, and crushed limestone. Shows purity and lots of acidity, and while not complex, it's admirable for the sense of harmony it gives off, ending with an almond note. Maybe a hint of white peach. Drink now, with some grilled seafood or a tomato salad. About $20.

-  May 28, 2020

Hattingley Valley Classic Reserve Brut Non-Vintage (England). Made in the traditional method, this exhibits a pale straw color, with aromas of lemon and tangerine rind, then active bread dough and fresh ginger. Delicious palate that's not restrained, offering plenty of citrus and white flower notes, with hints of butterscotch on the long finish, but there's also plenty of verve and brightness. Really enjoyable. Made from 50% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier. Drink now. About $36.

-  May 25, 2020

Domaine Pellé Menetou-Salon Morogues Vignes de Ratier 2017. Very pale in color, with lots of minerality on the nose, suggesting chalk or flint. Generous notions of lime zest on the palate, then some tropical fruit qualities, like underripe green guava and mango, moving to tangerine toward the finish. There's even some richness to it, almost juicy, plus some grass and bell pepper notes, balanced by laser-like acidty and focus. Great with seared scallops. Drink now. About $25.

-  May 22, 2020

Les Domaines Auriol Carignan Claude Vialade Vieilles Vignes 2015 (Côtes Catalanes). Made from vines of over 50 years in age, this offers scents of red flowers, dense blackberry, licorice, and smoldering fire. Medium-bodied, with some surprising freshness to go with the brooding black/red fruits and smoke notes, then there's the iodine streak running through. Lots of value. Drink within 5 years. About $15.

-  May 20, 2020

Bodegas Olivares Rosado Finca Hoya de Santa Ana 2019 (Jumilla). 100% Garnacha, this exhibits a pretty pink color with hints of orange, then a nose reminiscent of crushed strawberries and tangerine zest. Easy to like, but not simple, offering abundant red fruit and citrus flavors paired with zippy acidity. Finishes with vibrancy. Great price! Drink now. About $12.

-  May 18, 2020

Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf Du Pape Vieilles Vignes 2010. At ten years old, this has definitely mellowed compared to previous tastings, showing some rust color along the rim, along with forest floor and spice aromas, matched by ripe cherry notes. More pure cherry qualities on the palate, plus blueberry, licorice, and iodine/seaweed toward the long finish. Full-bodied but not overbearing. Delicious. Mature, but will hold for another 8 years. About $55.

-  May 14, 2020

Mastroberardino Greco Campania Mastro 2017. Stainless steel fermented, this has plenty of vibrant minerality and freshness, but also stone fruits, lemon balm, fennel fronds, and orange rinds. Ends with an almond note. On the lighter side of the spectrum. Great with some marinated goat cheese. Drink now. About $13.

-  May 11, 2020

Lewelling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Wight Vineyard 2013 (St. Helena). Beautiful Napa Cabernet, showing astonishing purity to the blackberry, cassis, black cherry, vanilla, and mocha scents. Really lovely in the mouth, this version is a little more elegant compared to most years, but that doesn't mean it's shy, offering fantastic depth and concentration of dark fruit, but also a touch more acidity. There's a pencil lead note toward the long finish, along with some melted licorice, with lots of ripe tannins holding everything together. Drink now through 2032. About $75.

-  May 7, 2020

Muga Rioja Reserva Selección Especial 2014. Lovely, deep and serious nose, like blueberries, blackberries, smoldering fire, chocolate, and hints of dark spices, this shows intensity and purity, with nothing out of place. The palate is gorgeous and refined, starting off with a plump, dense texture and vanilla-wrapped, generous fruit before moving to savory herb and anise notes as it moves along, ending with vibrancy as well as serious but fine tannins. This bottle really sings. Also tasted at the 2020 Fondue Challenge. Drink now through 2035. About $45.

-  May 3, 2020

Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barbera d'Alba 2018. Fantastic Barbera, one that's beautifully perfumed with notions of tart cherries, red flowers, lavender, orange rind, and blackberries. Shows purity and focus, as well as lively acidity that props up the red fruit flavors, ending long, with just a touch of dried leaves. A more classic style, but one that's very approachable, and great with food. Drink now through 2024. About $20.

-  May 1, 2020

Gruet Blanc de Blancs Sauvage Non-Vintage (New Mexico). One of our favorite values in sparking wine, this version is all Chardonnay, and receives no dosage, resulting in a bone dry, very bright bubbly that's just this side of austere (in a great way). Notions of tart green pear and lemons, with a hint of biscuit and ginger. Ends clean, with more length that one might expect at this price. Drink now. About $17.

-  April 27, 2020

Quinta Vale D. Maria Van Zellers & Co. VZ 2017 (Douro). A big, bold wine that's loaded with wild blue and black berry fruit, but also anchored by rocky qualities and enough acidity to keep it alive for another sip. Plenty of rich coffee notes too, then a touch of bitter chocolate. Full-bodied, but not overdone, ending very long, with savory dried herb and licorice flavors. Impressive structure, and while not cheap, this is still an outstanding value for lovers of high-octane wines (15.5% alcohol). Drink now through 2030. About $25.

-  April 23, 2020

Bergerie du Capucin Dame Jeanne 2016 (Pic Saint Loup). Made from 80% Syrah and the rest Grenache, this starts off on the nose with lots of creamy/buttery notes, then swirling reveals notions of briary black/blue fruit and espresso qualities. Medium-bodied and fresh, with licorice notes to go with the dark fruit and crushed rock flavors. Maybe a little bit of beef blood, and ends a little spicy. Solidly built. Drink now through 2025. About $25.

-  April 16, 2020

Las Rocas de San Alejandro Garnacha 2016 (Calatayud). Offers plenty of intensity on the nose, especially at this price, with notions of ripe cherries, smoke, underbrush, and blueberries. Some tannins peek out, but there's also acidity to support the ripe dark fruit and licorice flavors, moving to toasty notes toward the finish. This isn't overdone, at "only" 14.5% alcohol, and will not overwhelm food. Excellent value. Drink within a couple years. About $11.

-  April 6, 2020

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2012. Dark and smoky nose, with generous cherry and licorice scents moving in and out, then notions of red flowers and spices. Waves of flavor, starting with ripe primary fruit, but continues along to forest floor and tobacco notes. Medium-bodied and concentrated, ending with solid, ripe tannins. Long. Stunning. Expertly made. Ready now, but will continue to evolve for many years. About $60.

-  April 2, 2020

Rocca delle Macìe Chianti Classico Riserva Famiglia Zingarelli 2016. Really pretty scents of sweet, ripe cherries, plums, and red flowers, but there's some bass notes of tobacco and leather too. Show excellent purity and focus, along with medium body and almost bright acidity, with a lengthy finish, where some dark spices mix with the red/black fruit. Contains 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, but this screams Sangiovese character. Very approachable compared to the 2015. Lots of value here. Drink now through 2025. About $20.

-  March 30, 2020

Westport Rivers Brut Cuvée RJR 2007 (Massachusetts). A thirteen year-old wine that's golden in color, and smells like you've just walked into a bakery, with notions of active bread dough and fruit pastries, plus apricots, ripe brown pears, honey, caramel, and butterscotch. More of that creamy quality on the palate, along with baked apple pie and candied orange rind. Plenty of acidity, and an interesting savory quality on the finish, reminiscent of roasted rosemary. Mature, so drink now. About $30.

-  March 26, 2020

Albert Bichot Chablis Domaine Long-Depaquit 2018. A bare hint of dairy on the nose, but swirling reveals very good purity of fruit, like Meyer lemons, green pear, and Fuji apple. The palate is expressive for basic Chablis, showing notions of lime zest, oranges, pear, and limestone, with plenty of freshness and verve. Try with poached sole or halibut. Drink now through 2023. About $25.

-  March 26, 2020

Albert Bichot Mâcon Villages 2018. Very focused nose that's reminiscent of green pears, honeyed citrus, and white peaches, plus some chalky notes. On the lean side, but not boring, with flavors of fresh herbs and light citrus. Plenty of acidity and a moderate finish. Good as an apertif. Drink now. About $15.

-  March 23, 2020

Yalumba The Signature 2012 (Barossa). Deeply purple in color and made from 52% Cabernet Sauvignon and 48% Shiraz, this offers soaring scents of crushed blueberries, blackberries, and cassis, then notions of campfire and vanilla. Full-bodied and pure, with lots of chocolate and coffee flavors to go with the dark fruit, with fine tannins and supportive acidity. Great intensity, but not overdone. Drink now through 2030. About $55.

-  March 17, 2020

Paolo Scavino Barolo 2011. Beautifully perfumed, like fresh red roses, orange peel, and cherries, plus hints of smoldering fire and tar. Accessible for Barolo, with fantastic purity of both light and dark fruit paired with caressing texture, this has plenty of structure, but it's refined and not obtrusive. Shows some earthy, forest floor notes toward the long finish. A really pretty style, and fantastic for a "regular" Barolo. Ready now, but will last for another 8 years. About $40.

-  March 12, 2020

Georges Duboeuf Côte de Brouilly Domaine du Riaz 2015. Displays richness and darkness, with scents of black cherries, plums, tobacco, and wild berries. Medium-bodied, with very good intensity to the fruit and cola notes, but it also has the acidity to keep it alive, plus some spice notes for interest. Pair with some cheeses and charcuterie, and drink within 5 years. About $17.

-  March 10, 2020

Haarmeyer Syrah Fields Family Vineyard 2017 (Mokelumne River). Showing plenty of freshness and floral notes, this is not an inky, heavy Syrah, but one that's stays inviting and alive. There are notions of freshly brewed coffee (especially on the finish), plus red berries, vanilla, and toffee on a medium-bodied frame. A refreshing change of pace. Drink within 5 years. About $25.

-  March 9, 2020

Esporão Red Reserva 2015 (Alentejo). Made from Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez, Trincadeira, and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is very fragrant, with notions of black tea, smoldering fire, and wild, dark berries. There's good acidity to keep this alive, matched with tobacco, wet earth and black fruit flavors, with moderate intensity. Has a mysterious quality, like there's something hiding in the shadows, something that may reveal itself with another couple of years of aging. About $18.

-  March 5, 2020

Château de la Grange Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu La Berrière Sur Lie 2018. This has that nervous, crispy, saline edge to it, like crushed up seashells and a hint of low tide. Extra-tangy, but not bland or uninteresting, with floral, green pear, and lemon/lime zest notes. Obvious with oysters, but also great as an apertif or with little fried fishes. Drink now. About $12.

-  March 2, 2020

Domaine la Bouïssiere Gigondas 2015. Shows purity and intensity on the nose, with notions of dark cherries, iodine, seaweed, and blackberries. Fantastic attack, hitting you with a rush of red and blue fruit, but it's anchored by savory roasted herb and anise notes, plus matched acidity and serious length. Very impressive. Made from 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah. Ready now, but will last for another 6 years or more. About $40.

-  February 29, 2020

Ornellaia Le Volte dell'Ornellaia 2015 (Toscana). Made from 67% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 13% Sangiovese, this offers scents of cigar smoke, vanilla, black currants, eucalyptus, black plums, and hints of ground pepper. It's the texture that impresses the most, as it coats the mouth with supple fruit and velvety, fine tannins. With excellent balance, this comes off as very approachable and made for consumption within the next 5 years. About $35.

-  February 27, 2020

Castelnau de Guers Picpoul de Pinet Blanc Charisse 2018. Very fresh and inviting, with notions of both lime zest and lime juice on the nose, along with honeydew melon and green pear. Lively and almost juicy in the mouth, having mouthwatering acidity that backs up the ripe citrus notes. Not complex, but certainly not a lean Picpoul, this begs for a hot summer day. Drink now. About $16.

-  February 23, 2020

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2012 (Napa Valley). Deep and dark on the nose, like black cherries, anise, cassis, pipe tobacco, and blackberries. Shows fantastic purity and depth, full body, and concentration, with that cassis note rising up as the glass gets more air. The texture is both effortless and plush, but with finely tuned tannins and gorgeous length. Lip-smackingly delicious, and very Napa Valley, this still retains a savory quality that balances it all out. Ready now, but will last for another 15 years, at least. About $135.

-  February 16, 2020

Bollinger Champagne Brut Special Cuvée Non-Vintage. A big style, showing complex scents of mushrooms, red apples, preserved citrus, marzipan, active bread dough, and hints of butterscotch. A bit spicy in the mouth, like ginger and cardomom, plus plenty of apple and citrus notes, and a bit of hazelnut. Broad-shouldered, but not without plenty of acidity and focus, delivering a long, intense finish. A stunner. Drink now. About $55.

-  February 13, 2020

Chrisohoou Xinomavro 2016 (Naoussa). This could be mistaken for Nebbiolo, with its nose of red roses, but there's also plenty of eucalyptus/pine, cherries, and a medicinal quality. Medium-bodied and fresh, with solid, fine tannins and a savory palate that has a lot of roasted herb notes. Some licorice also. Moderate finish. Great with some grilled meat. Good value. Drink now through 2026. About $15.

-  February 12, 2020

Adegamãe Chardonnay 2018 (Lisboa). Very vibrant and fresh on the nose, with aromas of white peach, green pears, and tart citrus. Mouthwateringly fun in the mouth, and while it's not complex, it's very easy to like, and very clean and correct for a Chardonnay that sees only a little oak aging. Drink now. About $15.

-  January 30, 2020

Cara Nord Negre 2015 (Conca de Barberà). Made from 40% Garnatxa Negra, 40% Syrah, and 20% Garrut (the local version of Monestrell), this offers very floral scents, like both dried and fresh roses, plus bright cherries, and wet earth. Maybe a hint of orange rind. On the lighter side of medium-bodied, with lots of freshness and bright, ripe fruits. Tannins are relatively tame, with some tobacco notes on the moderately long finish, where the acidity is driving force. Drink now through 2025. About $17.

-  January 28, 2020

Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2008. Really, really beautiful nose, offering classic scents of roses, tar, and cherries, just turned up in volume and prettiness. There's a hint of dark spices in there too, and maybe a touch of vanilla. Medium-bodied. Mature, but not at all tired or unstructured, this presents as a more elegant style, with a lithe quality to it. Gorgeous texture. Lots of floral notes here, then more dark spices on the long finish. Drink now, or keep for another 5 years. About $50.

-  January 23, 2020

Tasca Conti d'Almerita Catarratto Antisa Tenuta Regaleali 2018 (Sicilia). Looks unfiltered, with a perfumed powdery quality on the nose, and also lots of fruit, verging on tropical, plus bright citrus, like pomelo. Shows some real intensity in the mouth, with lasting fruit (orange peel, apples), and a pleasant bitterness on the finish, not unlike almonds. Try with grilled sardines. Drink now. About $19. 

-  January 23, 2020

Tasca Conti d'Almerita Grillo Cavallo delle Fate Tenuta Regaleali 2017 (Sicilia). Like wet rocks on the nose, this has beautiful minerality and verve, plus hints of Vaseline, but there are also plenty of lemon notes here too, as well as on the palate. Super-clean and vibrant, this is well-made and shows polish, with more minerality and a green pear quality as it moves through the mouth. Crushed rocks! Have with some grilled shrimp. Drink now. About $19.

-  January 20, 2020

Masi Campofiorin Brolo Oro 2014 (Verona). Made from semi-dried grapes and sporting a deep ruby color, this offers scents of smoldering campfire, prunes, blackberries, and licorice. Full-bodied and palate-grabbing, but with freshness and verve, it impresses with concentration of fruit and a robust quality that would pair well with braised winter meats. Corvina, Rondinella, and Oseleta. Drink now through 2028. About $29.

-  January 19, 2020

Petitjean-Pienne Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Coeur de Chardonnay Non-Vintage. From Grand Cru vineyards in Cramant comes this lovely, beautifully-crafted bubbly from a small producer. Aromatics of honey, clementine, fresh pastry dough, and lemon curd. Show excellent intensity, along with laser acidity and focus. Like green pears and citrus flavors, plus some biscuit, and a bare hint of butterscotch on the long, long finish. Really wonderful. They could certainly charge more for this quality. Drink know through 2026. About $40.

-  January 16, 2020

Celler Cal Pla Black Slate Porrera 2016 (Priorat). Indicative of the appellation, this shows an impressive crushed rock quality on the nose, along with notions of beef blood, black licorice, roasted herbs, and seaweed. That seaweed/iodine note continues on the palate, plus black plums and cherries. More intense and extracted than some previous vintages, but also has balanced acidity and focus. Medium-bodied and long. Garnatxa Negra, Carinyena, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Give this some air. An amazing value, as usual. Ready now, and will last for 10 years. About $24.

-  January 14, 2020

Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino 2010. Complex nose, with notions of tobacco, mocha, anise, smoke, dried herbs, cherries, and freshly brewed coffee. Medium-bodied, with good tension and lovely fruit. Added notes of dried cherries, lavender, and roses. Long. Wonderful Brunello with some age on it. Drink now through 2028. About $55.

-  January 13, 2020

André Chemin Champagne 2013. Very detailed, with notions of wet rocks, preserved lemons, chalk, and lemon curd on the nose. Very refined and intense at the same time, with flavors reminiscent of green apples, tangerines, and lemon juice. Long, focused, and delicious. Drink now through 2026. About $60.

-  January 10, 2020

A to Z Wineworks Bubbles 2016 (Oregon). This is a fun, easygoing sparking rosé, made from organically grown Pinot Noir with 10% Chardonnay. It's stainless steel fermented, so it's not exactly delicate, but is enjoyable for its exuberance and ability to pair with lots of foods. Slightly dusty on the nose, with mostly notions of raspberries and strawberries, then the palate is all about red fruit and citrus peel. Good acidity keeps it grounded. Drink now. About $18.

-  January 9, 2020

Marchesi Biscardo Corvina 2017 (Provincia di Verona). A winner if you're looking for a great value, this perfumed red offers scents of dried cranberries, licorice, red flowers, and dark plums. Shows moderate to full body, with pleasant acidity and impressive concentration for the price, as well as lingering finish. With lots of dark fruit and anise notes here, it's much better than the price would indicate. Easygoing tannins. Drink now through 2026. About $15.

-  January 7, 2020

Cara Nord Blanc 2017 (Conca de Barberà). A rather unusual blend of 40% Macabeu, 40% Chardonnay, and 20% Trepat, this Catalan white is floral and pretty on the nose, but also includes some mineral backing. Fresh acidity supports white citrus and green pear, with hints of tropical fruit as it warms. Finishes with good length and more minerality. Drink now. About $16.

-  January 6, 2020

Tselepos Moschofilero 2017 (Mantinia). This is super clean and energetic, with a shy nose hinting at crushed rocks and lemon rind, then the palate is more about stone fruit and lime juice. Stays vibrant through the finish, where is really sings. Great with grilled swordfish. Drink now. About $18.

-  January 3, 2020

Domaine des Cognettes Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sélection des Cognettes Sur Lie 2018. Like crushed up shells on the nose, this is very clean and vibrant, with a saline edge to it that matches well with notions of green pear and stone fruit. A touch of yeast on the finish. Mouthwatering. Definitely not a boring Muscadet. Drink now. $15.

-  January 1, 2020

The Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Mount Veeder). Really interesting nose of dark spices (cloves, black peppercorns), licorice, cassis, blackberries, and pipe tobacco. There's some vanilla and coffee in there too. Not at all burdensome on the palate, this leans toward medium-bodied, with solid acidity and focus to go with lots of dark fruit, anise, and toasty notes. Tannins are evident, but not unpolished. A beauty. Give this plenty of air if you want to try this now, but will be better in a couple years, and will last for 20 years. About $60.

-  December 29, 2019

Every year, we present our most memorable wine recommendations from the previous 12 months. The wines below either wowed us with their absolute quality or their value (or both).

#1 Clos i Terrasses Laurel 2014 (Priorat)

#2 Kobalt Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (Napa Valley)

#3 Hayfork Cabernet Sauvignon Lewelling Ranch 2015 (St. Helena)

#4 Moët & Chandon Champagne Brut Dom Perignon 2003

#5 K Vintners Syrah Powerline 2015 (Walla Walla Valley)

#6 Château Margaux 1999 (Margaux)

#7 Azelia Barolo Margheria 2013

#8 Louis Roederer Champagne Brut 2008

#9 Ridge Geyserville 2013 (Sonoma County)

#10 Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2007

Honorable mentions:

Billecart-Salmon Champagne Extra Brut 2006

Királyudvar Tokaji Furmint Sec 2015

Anita & André Kuhnel Moulin A Vent Reine de Nuit 2015

Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon Signature 2016 (Napa Valley)

Mitolo Shiraz G.A.M. 2006 (McLaren Vale)


-  December 20, 2019

Paetra Riesling K 2017 (Willamette Valley). There's a hint of gasoline on the nose, but also pretty lemon, white peach, and saline notes. Show expert balance, with plenty of energy and delicate fruit. There's even a mineral quality underneath the reserved pineapple, green apple, and stone fruit flavors. Drink now. About $22.

-  December 17, 2019

Castell d'Age Fragments Blanc de Blancs 2018 (Penedès). A unique blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Xarel-lo from organic and Demeter certified (biodynamic) vineyards using indigenous yeasts. No surprise that this is reminiscent of Cava both on the nose and palate, with fine chalk/slate notes running through it all, along with lean tangerine, green pear, jalapeno, and grass qualities. There's some notions of tortilla chops or Saltines too. Crisp acidity. Drink now. About $18.

-  December 15, 2019

Rocche Costamagna Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata 2012. Has those telltale scents of roses and tar, but also evergreen forest and bright cherries. Medium-bodied, and relatively open, especially with an hour of air, showing excellent purity and focus. A pretty style, but still has a Nebbiolo toothy bite on the finish. Great now, and will last another 8 years. About $40.

-  December 13, 2019

Bennati Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso Soraighe 2017. Deeply colored and having a very pretty perfume of red flowers, blackberries, raspberries, cocoa powder, and black licorice. Excellent balance, with fine tannins and generous fruit, matched with solid acidity and presence. Nicely done. Turns inky with air. Drink now through 2025. About $20.

-  December 12, 2019

Field Recordings Caloroso 2018 (Paso Robles). Made from a rather unusual blend (for California) of 60% Corvina, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Rondinella, this is light in color, almost like a dark rosé, and offers complex scents of tart cherries, dusty earth, orange rind, blackberries, and hints of red bell pepper. Not a heavyweight, and has fresh acidity to go with the red berry flavors. Moderate finish. Cool stuff. Drink within a few years. About $22.

-  December 10, 2019

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (Knights Valley). Focused and perfumed on the nose, like freshly ground coffee, cassis, black cherries, and roses. Maybe a touch of anise and blackberry. Medium to full-bodied and dense with flavor, this a very slight step back in complexity compared to most every other vintage, but is still full of that characteristic pure cassis note, along with dark plums and toasted oak. Refined tannins. Yet another excellent value. Drink within 5 years. About $28.

-  December 4, 2019

Château de Minière Bulles de Minière Non-Vintage. Talk about unusual, this is a dry, sparkling, 100% Cabernet Franc, pétillant naturel from the Loire Valley. Plenty of skin contact here, leaving this medium ruby in color, with aromas of boysenberry, raspberry, blackberry, and hints of tomato leaf. There's a touch of ripe red bell pepper on the palate, but it's not overpowering, plus lots of acidity and dark fruits. Maybe a hint of walnuts on the finish. Really interesting. Pair with charcuterie. Drink now. About $22.

-  December 2, 2019

Adega Ponte da Barca Alvarinho Reserva 2017 (Minho).  Super clean and fresh, this presents as very lemony both on the nose and palate, with lots of mineral and white peach qualities too. Zippy acidity. Not simple, this has decent weight and texture, showing real quality for the price. Drink now. About $13.

-  November 26, 2019

Fèlsina Fontalloro 2012 (Toscana). Has serious intensity and Sangiovese character, like dried cherries, lavender, mocha, dark spices, and bright acidity. Medium-bodied, with a long finish. Wonderful aromatics and presence. Give this lots of air for all the volume to emerge. Drink now through 2025. About $50.

-  November 21, 2019

Santa Barbara Winery Chardonnay 2018 (Santa Barbara County). Soft, but not uninteresting, this is easy to like, with plenty of white peach, green pear, tangerine, and lime notes. I wouldn't call this challenging, but it's certainly really pretty and well-made, showing solid verve and a moderatly long finish, where the acidity drives it along, and would pair with a wide array of foods, from a richer salad to a poached fish. 53% of the wine fermented in stainless steel tanks, and 47% is barrel fermented, which underwent malolactic fermentation. Drink now. About $18.

-  November 20, 2019

Domaine des 3 Cellier Châteauneuf du Pape Alchimie 2016. Shows purity and focus on the nose, with notions of raspberries, cherries, and garrigue. Really pretty. In the mouth, it exhibits a sense of elegance, with nearly full-body, but solid lift of acidity and freshness to go with the red fruit. A more restrained Chateauneuf, in a great way. Made from 60% Grenache, 16% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 4% Counoise, 4% Vaccarèse, 4% Terret, and 2% Clairette. About $30.

-  November 18, 2019

Sobilane 2015 (Côtes Catalanes). Love the notions of underbrush on the nose, like you're taking a hike in the fall woods, then there's blackberries, raspberries, and ink from a ballpoint pen too. Full-bodied, with delicious ripe red fruit, this is not at all heavy, and has an impressive, detailed finish. Made from 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah. Drink within 5 years. About $22.

-  November 15, 2019

Adegas Moure Abadia da Cova A Fuga 2018 (Ribeira Sacra). Made from 61% Albarino, 21% Godello, and 18% Treixadura, this shows lots of mineral qualities on the nose, along with white flowers and hints of both stone fruit and tropical fruit. Very lively in the mouth, with juiciness and moderate intensity, similar to flavors of pear, oranges, lemons, green guava, and white peach. A tangy quality on the finish. Really interesting. Drink now. About $18.

-  November 12, 2019

Cerbaiona Rosso Vino de Tavola. Essentially a blend of two vintages Rosso di Montalcino (a barrel selection), this is very Sangiovese, with both tart and dark cherry notes, plus dried herbs and anise. Shows impressive concentration and presence, as well as medium body and lots of tannin. Easily comes off as a Brunello, with just a minor step back in volume. Totally fascinating with a braise. Drink now through 2026. About $30.

-  November 9, 2019

Julio Bastos Amantis Reserva 2015 (Alentejo). Made from equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot, and Touriga Nacional, this shows both masculinity and force as well as tenderness and finesse. Starts off powerful, with intense dark fruit and iodine, then moves to lithe brighter notes and cherries. Interesting. Refined texture. Will keep for a decade or so. About $25.

-  November 7, 2019

Domaine Dupeuble Beaujolais Rosé 2018. Plenty of fun, bright cherry qualities here, but there's also plenty of acidity and a pleasant bitter note too, plus raspberries, red flowers, and orange rind. Really enjoyable and fresh, this would pair with anything from light cheeses to grilled seafood. Drink now. About $15.

-  November 6, 2019

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (St. Helena). A stunning wine, showing no shortage of cassis, vanilla, freshly brewed coffee, and melted milk chocolate aromas. The palate is more than generous, with tons of black/blue fruit, but also refined tannins and acidity that gives this heft and presence. Full-bodied and very, very long. Just wonderful. Drink now through 2028. About $55.

-  November 4, 2019

Alvaro Palacios Camins del Priorat 2018 (Priorat). Very floral on the nose, but also suggestions of iron, cherries, wet leaves, and blueberries. Medium to full-bodied and well-balanced, showing driving acidity and pretty fruit, with that undertone of crushed rocks. Tame tannins. Youthful. Made from 40% Garnacha, 30% Samsó, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Syrah. An excellent entry-level version of Priorat. Drink now through 2024. About $25.

-  November 2, 2019

R.Dumont Champagne Brut Réserve Solera Non-Vintage. From a solera first filled in 1991 and a blend of approximately 20 vintages, this is all Chardonnay, offering a very unique profile, with both striking chalky notes on the nose, but also dark forest floor/mushroom qualities on the finish. Lovely texture and great intensity, with some bright citrus notes to go with all the minerality. This bottle was disgorgred in April 2018, and has the ability to last for at least 6 years. About $45.

-  November 1, 2019

Marqués de Cáceres Albarino Deusa Nai 2017 (Rias Baixas). Soft and easygoing, but not boring, with notions of white peach, spring flowers, green pear, and orange rind. Very clean and energetic, finishing with decent length. Drink now. About $14.

-  October 28, 2019

Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 2012. Really pretty nose that's like a bouquet of fresh red roses, plus notions of pine trees, lavender, tar, squid ink, and freshly brewed coffee. Just a bare hint of dark mushrooms. Elegant on the attack, then blossoms on the mid-palate to show plenty of red fruit, tobacco, and anise notes. Refined tannins and fresh acidity on the finish keeps this going. Very approachable for Barolo, with lithe texture. Better to drink within 8 years. About $50.

-  October 24, 2019

Dal Cero Pinot Grigio Corte Giacobbe 2017 (Delle Venezie). Showing brilliant clarity and a very pale peach/pink hue from 12 hours of maceration on the skins, this offers scents of strawberries, stone fruit, white flowers, and ripe pears. Maybe a hint of cheese. Plenty of acidity here, with ripe tangerine and peach flavors. Easy to like. Drink now. About $18.

-  October 22, 2019

Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon Signature 2016 (Napa Valley). Deep ruby to purple color, with generous scents of blue and blackberries, cassis, and vanilla, then notions of smoke and melted dark chocolate. Shows purity, full body, and intensity, with finely grained, honed tannins and delicious fruit. Turns dark on the long, long finish. Not hot or heavy, this will pair well with rich beef dishes. Outstanding. Drink now, or keep for at least 12 years. About $60.

-  October 17, 2019

Júlio Bastos Branco Dona Maria 2017 (Alentejano). Made from 35% Viosinho, 35% Arinto, and 30% Antão Vaz, this is wonderfully fresh and inviting on the nose, suggesting fresh lemons, green pears, and tangerine. Moderate in weight, with plenty of acidity, paired with notions of tropical fruit (pineapple/green guava) and citrus. Drink now. About $15.

-  October 15, 2019

Pedro Rodríguez Guímaro Blanco 2015 (Ribeira Sacra). Surprisingly yellow in color. Like chalk, autumn leaves, and anise on the nose, this offers moderate weight and fresh acidity, with a lean, almond character on the palate. Some ripe lemons and orange skin notes emerge with air, as well as a touch of minerality on the finish. Vibrant and tangy. Godello. Drink now. About $22.

-  October 14, 2019

Allegrini Palazzo della Torre 2015 (Veronese). Like cherries, licorice, dried plums, and tobacco on the nose, this seems even more concentrated on the palate than previous years. Has deft, driving acidity to go with the focused dark fruit and savory flavors. Fastastic value, as usual. Corvina, Rondinella, and some Sangiovese. Drink within 5 years. About $21.

-  October 11, 2019

Domaine Franck Millet Sancerre 2018. A lean, crisp, minerally style, this is all about suggestions of lime peel and crushed up limestone, with a hint of fresh herbs. It's not boring however, with really good focus and intensity on the mid-palate, and the finish is impressive, showing length and verve. Drink now. About $20.

-  October 10, 2019

Castaño Solanera Viñas Viejas 2015 (Yecla). Dark and smokey on the nose, like singed tobacco and graphite, with some dark berries poking out. Also dark in the mouth, not unlike scorched earth. Needs some air to unfold, then the fruit emerges (blueberries/blackberries), along with anise, iodine, and dried herbs. Shows freshness. Lots of value. Made from 65% Monastrell, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Tintorera. Drink now through 2025. About $16.

-  October 9, 2019

Field Recordings Skins White 2018 (Central Coast). Composed of 40% Chenin Blanc, 25% Pinot Gris, 25% Riesling, and 10% Verdelho, this sees some skin contact (thus the name), though the color is a relatively pale orange for this type of wine. Like apple cider on the nose, plus citrus peel, honey, and spice drawer. Not funky or tired as some of these can be, this is dry with lots of acidity and stone fruit/citrus flavors, finishing with a touch of tannin. Stays refreshing and clean, this is a welcome change of pace. Drink within a few years. About $20.

-  October 7, 2019

Domaine de la Janasse Côtes du Rhone Réserve 2016. Medium ruby in color, with lots of those seaweed/iodine scents you sometimes get on these, plus cherries, raspberries, graphite, and anise. Shows impressive purity and careful winemaking, with the right amount of structure for this type of wine, paired with genrous fruit and savory flavors. It's even long in the mouth, where the some toasty/mocha notes emerge. Really enjoyable for the price. Made from Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan, Cinsault. Drink now through 2025. About $18.

-  October 5, 2019

Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Brut Sainte Anne Non-Vintage. Lively bead in the glass, with beautiful scents of white flowers, Meyer lemon, table water crackers, tangerine, red berries, and hints of ginger. Generous and intense flavors, not unlike pineapples, oranges, green apple, and coconuts. With plenty of acidity and freshness, this really sings right now, but might be better in a year. This bottle was disgorged in July 2017. Made from equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. About $50.

-  October 2, 2019

Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon Jack London Vineyard 2015 (Sonoma Mountain). A little dusty, with some cassis and black cherry poking out, then graphite. More primary fruit emerges with air, like blueberry. Nice purity on the attack, with good acidity. Cherry, a hint of mocha. Medium-bodied, and a touch hot, although not overpowering. A little bit of purne on the finish. Focused. Good intensity, with ripe tannins that come out with air. Nice length. Drink now through 2028. About $26.

Montes Cabernet Sauvignon Alpha 2016 (Colchagua Valley). A touch of funk on the nose, with a hint of dairy and gasoline, then onion or garlic. The palate is redeeming, with notions of cranberry and dark fruit, paired with higher acidity, and some moderate tannin. An anise note moves to a notions of bell pepper that speak of pyrazines, but more primary fruit shows up with some air. Presents well for early drinking. About $22.

-  September 29, 2019

Quinta do Regueiro Alvarinho Foral de Melgaço Old Vines 2018 (Vinho Verde). Bright, citrusy nose, like limes and clementines, plus a little white peach. Also bright in the mouth, with zippy acidity and medium-body, offering flavors of not-quite-ripe nectarine, lemons, and parsley, finishing with a pleasant bitterness. Drink now. About $15.

-  September 25, 2019

Királyudvar Tokaji Furmint Sec 2015. Yellow in color. There's a lanolin quality to the nose, along with yellow apple, lemon, and honey. Fleshy in the mouth, but is balanced by solid acidity and freshness, with more of those apple notes, plus pineapple, toffee, and clementine flavors. Has a touch of salty almond, sea air about it too, lingering through the long finish. Really interesting. Drink now through 2022. About $26.

-  September 23, 2019

Vincent Pinot Blanc 2016 (Willamete Valley). Shy nose, hinting at white peaches and lemons, but the palate is more generous, with welcoming texture and flavors of stone fruits, lemon peel, limes, and a hint of tropical fruit, like green guava. Vibrant acidity. Great with a seafood salad. Drink now. About $16.

-  September 18, 2019

Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2007. Some brick-like color here, showing its age, then classic scents of dried roses, tar, and cherries, plus lavender and dried herbs. Medium-bodied, with fantastic intensity of flavor and focus, showing a fine line of acidity and developed tannin that support the still-present fruit and tobacco flavors. Definitely not youthful, but certainly not heading downhill, this is a real pleasure to drink, and an excellent example of 12 year old Barolo. Keep this for another 8 years, at least. About $45.

-  September 16, 2019

Maetierra Albariño Atlantis 2018 (Rías Baixas). Effusive scents of ripe white peach, along with notions of green pear and fresh herbs. Medium-bodied and intense in flavor, this is not a delicate version, with more stone fruit notes, plus a tropical quality, like mango, then oranges and limes. Fun. Stays in control with vibrant acidity. Drink now. About $15.

-  September 14, 2019

Bodegas Ego Fuerza 2013 (Jumilla). Made from 75% Monastrell and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, this exhibits generous notions of licorice, smoke, ink, black plum, blackberry, and graphite on the nose. Starts off rounded and approachable in the mouth, with plenty of black fruit and campfire notes, then some tannins and acidity emerge to give this structure and presence. Dark overall, but isn't brooding. Lots of value. Pair with some ribs. Drink now through 2023. About $13.

-  September 12, 2019

Rapaura Springs Sauvignon Blanc 2018 (Marlborough). It's like they turned up the volume on this one, with generous notes of gooseberry, passion fruit, limes, grass, mango, and tangerines. Medium-bodied and with plenty of mouthwatering acidity, it keeps pumping out citrus and tropical fruit flavors. Excellent purity, and an excellent price. Drink now. About $13.

-  September 8, 2019

Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina 2017 (Sannio). Vibrant orange blossom, hay, and blanched almond scents, with a hint of ocean air. That salty air quality continues on the palate, mixing with lemon and green pear notes, finishing with energy. Would be a great pairing with fried fish or trout with almonds. Drink now. About $17.

-  September 4, 2019

Ridge Geyserville 2013 (Sonoma County). A burning ember note on nose, like a campfire that's just about to be spent, then wet fall leaves, wild black and blue berries, and hints of flowers and vanilla. Gorgeous. Full-bodied, refined, with excellent acidity and purity. Shows care in winemaking, with focus as well as depth. Flavors include plenty of dark fruit, plus licorice and integrated oak on the long finish. As wonderful as ever, we can't remember a poor vintage of this. Made from 73% Zinfandel, 17% Carignane, 9% Petite Sirah, and 1% Mataro. Drink now through 2030. About $40.

-  September 1, 2019

Teo Costa Barbaresco Lancaia 2013. There's a menthol note on the nose to go with the tart cherry, roses, tobacco, dark mushroom, and forest floor scents. Very approachable in style for Barbaresco, with abundant red fruit bolstered by solid acidity and ripe but noticible tannins. Medium-bodied and persistent, this lingers with waves of cherry/blueberry flavors. Excellent value. Drink now through 2027. About $35.

-  August 26, 2019

Cloudline Pinot Noir 2017 (Willamette Valley). Shows good purity on the nose, with scents of tart cherry, smoke, and hints of cola. Nicely uplifting acidity gives this vibrancy to go with the red and black fruit, ending with moderate length and focus. Not a concentrated or rich style, but represents a real value in Oregon Pinot Noir. Drink now through 2024. About $18.

-  August 25, 2019

Domaine de la Rochette Touraine Le Coeur de la Reine 2018. Very grassy and fresh, with notions of lime peel, tangerine, lemons, and fresh herbs. Lots of verve and vibrancy. Not complex, but sure is fun and great for a hot summer day. Drink now. About $15.

-  August 22, 2019

Billecart-Salmon Champagne Extra Brut 2006. Intense, penetrating nose, showing complex notes of pineapples, apple pie, ripe pears, brioche, honey, and toasted coconut. Very focused in the mouth, but also loaded with toasty bread, hazelnut, and red apple skin flavors. Powerful and masculine in style, ending with dark spices and citrus. Drink now through 2027. About $75.

-  August 20, 2019

Hall Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (Napa Valley). Fantastic, open nose, featuring scents of black licorice covering abundant cassis, blackberry, and dark cherry fruit. There's some oak notes too, like vanilla, smoke and freshly brewed coffee. Opulently textured and plush, but balanced by good acidity and ripe tannin that drives the dark fruit across the palate. Has length, purity, and intensity to spare. Nearly 16% alcohol, but stays honest. Full of pleasure, so drink now, but will evolve for another 10 years. About $50.

-  August 19,  2019

Domaine du Grand Montmirail Gigondas Vieilles Vignes 2015. Made from 60% Grenache (from vines averaging 40 years of age), plus 30% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre, this exhibits lots of smoke and seaweed on the nose, along with underbrush and cherries. Medium to full-bodied, with an animal quality to go with the black and blue fruits, then a dried herb/mint note on the finish. Solid quality here, in a more old school way. Drink now through 2024. About $32.

-  August 15, 2019

Louis Roederer Champagne Brut 2008. Relatively pale in color, and offering very generous aromas of butterscotch, orange marmalate, baguette, red berries, and baked apples. Fantastic and very long in the mouth, with more of those apple notes and freshly baked bread, then notions of candied citrus rind. This is no lightweight, exhibiting a broad, serious manner to it. Goes on and on. Amazing intensity, but expert balance. Made from 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. Drink now through 2025. About $80.

-  August 9 ,2019

Eguren Ugarte Rioja Reserva 2015. Very nicely done for the price, showing impressive density of flavor and focus. Aromas/flavors of roses, dark plums, black cherries, and plenty of spice notes, like cloves and anise, plus tobacco. Finishes with verve and admirable length. Made from Tempranillo and 5% Graciano. So much value! Drink now through 2024. About $16.

-  August 6, 2019

Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre 2018. There's some serious minerality to this, coupled with grass, lime zest, white flowers, white pear, and lemongrass. Crunchy acidity. Elegant, restrained, and chalky. Let this warm up to reveal the fruit. Beautiful and long. Drink now. About $25.

-  August 5, 2019

Kobalt Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (Napa Valley). With no shortage of cassis, black cherry, blueberry, clove, and coffee aromas, this is dark, inky and penetrating on the nose. Really, really impressive in the mouth, featuring very full-body paired with outstanding balance and purity. Spreads across the palate with abundant red and black fruit, but is not heavy or tiring, finishing with a sense of elegance. A cocoa powder note emerges with air. Glorious. Drink now through 2034. About $90.

-  August 2, 2019

Anita & André Kuhnel Moulin A Vent Reine de Nuit 2015. Deep ruby in color, and exhibiting scents of dark tobacco, anise, black cherries, and dark spice. There's an inky quality on the palate, with medium body and focused dark fruit (cherries, plums), plus a black tea note. Really great balanced acidity. Moderately high tannins poke out on the finish. Outstanding Beaujolais, from a excellent vintage. Drink now through 2025. About $21.

-  July 31, 2019

Domaine Daniel Pollier Mâcon Fuissé 2016. Crisp and mouthwatering, leaning heavily on the citrus side of things (lemons, tangerines, orange rind), plus a hint of fresh herbs and grass. A toasty/nutty quality shows up with air. Not complex, but enjoyable for its vibrancy and value. Drink now. About $14.

-  July 28, 2019

Fèlsina Chianti Classico Riserva Berardenga 2016. Classic in flavor and proportions, with notions of tart cherry, cedar, tar, espresso, tobacco, violets, lilly, dried herbs, and dark spices. Complex, long, and precise, with supportive acidity and focus, ending with wet leaves, black pepper, and orange rind notes. Excellent Riserva. Drink now through 2027. About $26.

-  July 24, 2019

Andrea Felici Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore 2018. Clean and bright, with notions of white peach, fresh herbs, river rocks, and orange zest. Lots of energy and focus, staying mouthwatering and very enjoyable through the finish, where a lime juice note emerges. Minerality is evident all the way through. A summer wine. Drink now. About $15.

-  July 21, 2019

Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf du Pape 2009. Medium ruby in color, with striking, intense aromas of cherry liqueur, blueberries, and orange rind. Very full-bodied, hedonistic, and dripping with fruit, there's no shortage of ripeness and alcohol here, but it manages to stay together with enough tannin and acidity on the long finish, where more of that orange rind quality shows up, along with some anise and forest floor notes. Not for those who like subtle wines. Drink within a few years. About $55.

-  July 18, 2019

Gil Family Estates Rosé Honoro Vera 2018 (Jumilla). Made from Tempranillo and Syrah, this is inviting for its wealth of raspberry, watermelon, cherry, and citrus rind qualities, paired with zippy acidity and freshness. Easy to enjoy and uncomplicated in the best way. Pair with salty appetizers or some grilled oily fish. Drink now. About $10.

-  July 12, 2019

Rocca delle Macìe Chianti Classico Riserva Famiglia Zingarelli 2015. Lots of evolved cedar, coffee, and wet soil notes on the nose, but the palate is generous and a bit more youthful, with a balsamic note to go with cherry, tar, blueberry, and tobacco flavors. Shows some strong tannins on the finish, where a bit of orange peel comes out. A serious style. Drink within 6 years. About $20.

-  July 11, 2019

Domaine Hamelin Petit Chablis 2018. Pale yellow with a hint of green, showing aromas of green apple, clementine, lemons, and fresh herbs. Bright and very fresh, this is not complex, but has a fine line of minerality through it (especially on the finish), to go with the green pear and citrus flavors. Drink now. About $18.

-  July 8, 2019

Celler Cal Pla Porrera Black Slate 2015 (Priorat). Shows a deep ruby/purple hue, with fresh, inviting aromas of black cherries, blueberries, crushed rocks, and anise. An absolutely amazing value as usual, offering purity and concentration to go with the ripe dark fruit, finishing long, where the tannins peek out. This is made in an early drinking style, and is hard to resist. About $19.

-  July 7, 2019

Château Beauchene Côtes du Rhone Blanc 2017. Made from 100% Viognier, this offers striking scents of ripe peach, pear, lychee, and red apple. More of the same on the palate, with some Meyer lemon notes to round it all out, finishing with a hint of oak/vanilla, then an orange rind quality. There's enough acidity to lift it up. Great with a Moroccan chicken tagine. Drink now. About $19.

-  July 6, 2019

Ferrari-Carano Fumé Blanc 2017 (Sonoma County). Really fun and zippy, with both effusive tropical fruits (mango, passion fruit, guava) and citrus (limes, oranges), plus a bare hint of oak. But it's the freshness and verve that holds it all together and drives it along. Exuberant, with a pleasant bitterness on the finish. Drink now. About $13.

-  July 3, 2019

Domaine Carneros Brut 2014 (Carneros). Reticent nose, hinting at white flowers, live yeast, and lemons. The palate is generous, however, with excellent intensity and laser-like focus, brimming with white citrus, pear, and green apple flavors that linger effortlessly. A very elegant style. Best to drink within a few years. About $27.

-  July 1, 2019

Hayfork Cabernet Sauvignon Lewelling Ranch 2015 (St. Helena). We're fortunate enough to be on the mailing list for Lewelling Vineyard's Cabernets, so we were elated to finally try Hayfork's bottling from the same piece of Napa Valley, also made by Haley Wight. Deep ruby in color and sporting concentrated scents of cassis, eucalyptus, dark spices, cherries, and coffee. Full-bodied and ripe, this shows amazing purity and harmony, with tons of those cassis and dark cherry flavors, but also refined tannins and judicious use of oak. Some licorice on the very, very long finish. Absolutely wonderful. Drink now through 2030. About $70.

-  June 27, 2019

Moët & Chandon Champagne Brut Dom Perignon 2003. From a vintage that was marked by record-breaking heat comes this unique, powerful version of Dom, offering scents of butterscotch, red apples, toasty bread, ginger, and dark spices. Big, broad, and ripe in the mouth, this comes off as very vinous and exotic. Flavors of honey, orange marmalade, and baked apple tart. Finishes with an earthy note, like white mushrooms and chalk. Not the extreme elegance you might expect, but is facinating and intense instead. Fantastic now, but should be fine for another 10 years. About $175.

-  June 24, 2019

La Pazzaglia Grechetto 2016 (Lazio). Moderate yellow in color, with a shy nose, hinting at crushed rocks. Great balance of bright acidity, moderate weight, and minerality, with flavors of orange rind, almonds, lemon, and a hint of butterscotch. Drink now. About $18.

-  June 23, 2019

Château Margaux 1999 (Margaux). Complex and intriguing on the nose, like roses, violets, graphite, dark mushrooms, and black cherries. Very elegant, suave, and integrated, but penetrating at the same time, like the flavors are drilling into your tongue. Rounded, amazing texture that shows no hard edges, with flavors of wild berries, forest floor, graphite, and a touch of leather. Long finish shows an inky, iodine note. Really blows up in the mouth when paired with roasted chicken. Fully mature. About $700.

-  June 19, 2019

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Knights Valley). Not shy on the nose, with penetrating aromas of cassis, black cherries, plums, toast, charcoal, and coffee. The alcohol is a bit high this vintage, but it's supported by a wealth of fruit, like more cassis and black cherries, but also licorice, vanilla, and a chocolate note. Eucalyptus pokes out on the long finish. An outstanding value, this is hard to ignore when you can enjoy this quality at a very reasonable price. Better to drink within 6 years. About $26.

-  June 17, 2019

Casa D'Ambra Ischia Bianco 2014. There's a serious line of minerality running through both the nose and the palate, like crushed up marl, plus orange peel, almonds, and lemons. Nice concentration, with plenty of acidty and focus, finishing with modest length and a green pear note. Made from Biancolella and Forastera. Would be great with some fried fresh fish. Drink now. About $16.

-  June 14, 2019

Tenuta di Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva Nozzole 2015. Surprisingly evolved, with notions of leather, sour cherries, roses, wet leaves, and dark spices on the nose. Medium to full-bodied in the mouth, with flavors of dried cherries, forest floor, leather, and tobacco, with impressive intensity, especially with air, finishing with length and verve. Very well-done for the price. Drink within a few years. About $22.

-  June 10, 2019

Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (Napa Valley). Classic and expressive aromas of cassis, black cherries, mocha, and wet dark earth, this is both indicative of the vintage and showing of the purity of fruit. More pure cassis notes on the palate, plus integrated oak notes of vanilla, and a touch of anise on the long finish. Not inexpensive, but still a really great price for this quality in Napa. Ready now, but will develop in the coming few years. About $55.

-  June 7, 2019

Mas Doix Les Crestes 2012 (Priorat). Checking in on the Les Crestes (last tasted in September 2015), this is now more open on the nose, with similar notions of licorice, dark cherries, iodine, and coffee, but just more pronounced. That iodine streak runs through the palate, along with plenty of dark fruit, and a dried oregano quality on the finish. Mostly Grenache, with 10% Carinena and 10% Syrah. Drink now through 2023. About $25.

-  June 4, 2019

San Felice Bell'Aja 2016 (Bolgheri). This Super-Tuscan is very full of dark plum notes after some funk blows off, then coffee and smoke. Plump in the mouth, with excellent purity and a round texture that hides some ripe tannin. Well-made and approachable, but that dark fruit and structure holds it all together. 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2024. About $33.

-  June 3, 2019

El Xamfrà Cava Rosé 2012. Pale pink with a hint of orange color, this is very nicely done, with notions of raspberry, orange peel, strawberries, and watermelon. Vibrant and easy, but not one-note or uninteresting, with decent presence for the price. Great with some salty tapas. Drink now. About $13.

-  June 1, 2019

La Cartuja 2016 (Priorat). Made from 70% Garnacha and 30% Mazuelo, this offers plenty of smoke, cherry, and blueberry scents, with a hint of licorice. There's a crushed rock note here too, underpinning the dark fruit, then some very fine tannins. Bordering on full-bodied. Very impressive for the price, and especially for this appellation, this would pair well with meats off your summer barbecue. Drink now through 2022. About $19.

-  May 30, 2019

Roederer Estate Brut Non-Vintage (Anderson Valley). Lemon yellow color with notions of gold, this offers complex scents of brioche, white mushrooms, baked apples, cinnamon, and whole wheat biscuit. Fantastic. Shows richness to the lemon curd, honeysuckle, red apple, and tangerine flavors. Very long, intense finish, where some red berry and butterscotch notes show up. An amazing value. Drink now. About $22.

-  May 28, 2019

Simonnet-Febvre Saint Bris 2016. Admirable for the focused lemon, wet stone, and tangerine notes. Plenty of acidity, with a hint of tropical fruit and an easy to enjoy character. Some fresh herbs on the finish. Drink now. About $13.

-  May 22, 2019

Domaine Houchart Rosé 2018 (Côtes de Provence). Pink in color, with a hint of copper, and offering fresh, crushed raspberry, cherry, and cranberry notes, plus a lemon peel quality. The mid-palate is almost juicy, but there's sufficient acidity to hold it up. Dried bitter herbs on the finish. Would be great on a picnic. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Mourvedre. Drink now. About $14.

-  May 15, 2019

Clos i Terrasses Laurel 2014 (Priorat). Fully loaded with smoke, licorice, blackberry, blueberry, and prune scents, this leaps out of the glass with intensity and purity. A phenomenal wine that's both full of ripe fruit and balanced acidity, paired with fine-grained tannin and a crushed stone note on the long finish. Both effortless and powerful at the same time, and will certainly be on our top 10 list at the end of the year. Totally impressive. Ready now, but will last for another 8 or so years. About $50.

-  May 12, 2019

Yealands Sauvignon Blanc Peter Yealands 2018 (Marlborough). Classic gooseberry and lime zest notes, but there's also some fun guava and passion fruit flavors, ending with a pea shoot quality. Noticible concentration of flavor, as well as length and some weight make this stand out from a sea of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc bottlings. Shows verve and purity. Certified sustainable. Drink now. About $14.

-  May 9, 2019

Zorzettig Friulano 2017 (Friuli Colli Orientali). Not a lot on the nose (lemons, river rocks), but this is especially zippy and fresh, and is a welcome pairing to a diverse spread of appetizers. Good flavor intensity, like lemon zest, parsley, green pears, and white peach. Drink now. About $15.

-  May 7, 2019

Esporão Branco Reserva 2016 (Alentejo).  Portugal is such a great source of value these days, and this blend of Antão Vaz, Arinto, and Roupeiro is an excellent example. Complex aromas of stone fruit, white flowers, and subtle melon and hay. The acidity drives this forward, along with modest weight, showing flavors of pineapple, lychee, orange zest, ripe pear, and an herbal finish. Drink now. About $17.

-  May 5, 2019

Catena Malbec High Mountain Vines 2016 (Mendoza). Deep ruby in color, with aromas of smoke, anise, wild berries, black plums, toasted oak, and dark spices. Full-bodied, with plump, ripe tannins and a welcoming, rounded feel to the palate that's both caressing and showing a little backbone. Lots of dark, intense fruit, but it's not at all flabby, and stays around your mouth for a good 30 seconds. Always a fantastic value, and begs for grilled meat. Drink now through 2024. About $21.

-  April 29, 2019

Domaine Lafage Bastide Miraflors 2016 (Côtes du Roussillon). Made from Syrah and old vine Grenache, this exhibits aromas of cherry liqueur, blackberries, campfire, and molasses. Full-bodied, focused, and very intense for the price, with concentrated black/blue fruit and licorice flavors, staying honest with solid acidity. Not super tannic, but offers drive as well as purity through the long finish. There's a great black pepper note here too. Drink within a few years. About $17.

-  April 22, 2019

Jean Vesselle Oeil de Perdrix Champagne Non-Vintage. More orange than pink in color, this rosé offers scents of tangerine rinds, morning bakery, raspberries, and roses. Beautiful texture, moving around the mouth with fine bubbles and bright acidity, with expressive notions of red fruit and flowers. Turns to pink grapefruit on the lingering finish. Nicely crafted, and an outstanding value for Champagne. This bottle was disgorged in May 2017. Drink now. About $35.

-  April 20, 2019

Orin Swift Abstract 2017 (California). Shows a complex, intense nose of blackberries, charcoal, blueberries, mocha, vanilla, and dark spices. The 15.1% alcohol is a bit noticible, but there's plenty of fruit and moderate acidity for balance, with notions of black plums, cherries, anise, and freshly brewed coffee. Not a shy wine, so don't buy this for nuance. Made from Grenache, Petite Sirah, and Syrah. Great now, but will last for 8 years or so. About $35.

-  April 17, 2019

Henri Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc Petit Bourgeois 2017 (Vin de France). Fresh and lively, with aromas of lemongrass, limes, and river rocks, this comes off as an inexpensive Sancerre that's easygoing and ready for spring. Orange rind, green pear, and fresh herb notes on the palate, finishing clean. Drink now. About $14.

-  April 10, 2019

Izadi Rioja Selección 2013. Aromas of leather, black cherries, cocoa powder, dried herbs, and anise. Some decent structure, with both moderate acidity and tannin, supporting flavors of roasted coffee and licorice. Very good intensity, finishing with impressive length. With air, more primary fruit emerges. Very Rioja. Drink now through 2024. About $22.

-  April 1, 2019

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (St. Helena). Opaque ruby colored, with fantastic, soaring and complex aromatics of blackberries, blueberries, camp smoke, freshly brewed coffee, cassis, licorice, and vanilla. Opulently textured but not heavy, with some youthful tannin giving some support. Really beautiful purity of black and blue fruit, which expands across the palate, then leaves a lasting, focused finish, where some cedar notes emerge. This will last at least another 10 years. Outstanding, as usual. About $60.

-  March 28, 2019

Tetramythos Roditis 2017 (Patras). Coming from organic grapes, this is clean, bright, and shy on the nose, with some river rock and white flower notes. Lots of easygoing lemon and fresh herb flavors, backed by zippy acids on a medium-bodied frame. Bring on the shellfish. Drink now. About $16.

-  March 26, 2019

Azelia Barolo Margheria 2013. Very complex nose, with classic notes of red roses and tar, but also black cherries, dark plums, coffee, molasses, fennel fronds, and black pepper. Medium-bodied and very intense on the palate, with focused leather, mushroom, and black cherry flavors, ending long, with a squid ink note. Tannins are ripe, and there are plenty of them. Very complete, and fantastic with a grilled steak. Decant to drink now, and will last for another 15 years. About $65.

-  March 22, 2019

Esporão Duas Castas 2015 (Alentejano).  Clean and bright, with some rubber glove scents, then mostly lemon oil. Bright acidity, with good intensity, like preserved lemons, spring flowers, and white grapefruit. Pair with almost any assortment of appetizers. Made from 65% Roupeiro and 35% Alvarinho. Drink now. About $10.

-  March 21, 2019

Château du Trignon Rasteau 2012. Leathery nose, with mocha, dust, and mushrooms. Shows moderate structure, with evolved flavors of cocoa powder, anise, smoky bacon, and red plums. Give this some air for the primary fruit to emerge. Finishes with moderate length. Well-made, and a great representation of what this appellation is about. Drink now through 2025. About $20.

-  March 20, 2019

Waris-Hubert Champagne Grand Cru Zero Dosage Non-Vintage. Made from 100% Chardonnay, this offers an extremely citrusy nose, plus notions of honey, active bread dough, and white mushroom. Very, very refined and classy. More of those honey qualities show up on the palate, along with ripe clementines. Detailed, bright, and intensely focused, with white flowers on the long finish. No disgorgement date indicated, but we've been waiting on this bottle for about two years, and it's ready now, but could hold a couple years. About $45.

-  March 18, 2019

Jacquart Champagne Extra Brut Mosaique Non-Vintage. Yeasty nose, like you've walked into a bakery in the morning, but also cranberries, candied lemon peel, ginger, and apples. Laser-focused and dry, but not austere, with a chalky intensity to it, surrounding tart white grapefruit and green apple flavors, finishing with a long impression. Let this warm up a bit for the honey notes to emerge. A fantastic value for Champagne. Drink now. About $35.

-  March 14, 2019

Raats Chenin Blanc Original Unwooded 2017 (Stellenbosch). Clean, showing aromas of rubber glove, lemons, chamomile, and green pear. Dry, with crispy acidity that balances out generous flavors, like lemon/lime juice and river rocks. This is a very good value, with surprising levels of intensity and a long finish. Great with a spread of appetizers. Drink now. About $14.    

-  March 12, 2019

Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2009. Much to admire here, with classic scents and flavors as well as structure. Notions of roses, tar, dried cherries, forest floor, violets, and eucalyptus on the nose. Tannins are evident, but also show their age. Flavors lean toward dried fruit, bitter chococlate, mushrooms, and leather. Not at all tired at the 10 year mark. Drink now through 2026. About $45.

-  March 11, 2019

Gérard Bertrand Crémant de Limoux Brut Rosé Cuvée Thomas Jefferson 2015. Made from 70% Chardonnay, 15% Chenin Blanc, and 15% Pinot Noir, this vintage dated, crisp bubbly represents an excellent value from the south of France. Shy nose, but offers notions of red raspberries, citrus peel, blood orange, and stone fruit on the palate. Not much in the way of secondary notes, but is vibrant, food-friendly, and has surprising length. Drink within a couple years. About $16.

-  March 9, 2019

Teo Costa Barbaresco Lancaia 2011. Offers a moderate, but complex nose of roses, tar, licorice, black cherries, and a touch of black pepper. The palate is where this really sings, with harmonious acidity and tannin, supporting flavors of black plums, tobacco, bitter chocolate, leather, and mushrooms. Long finish. Outstanding, and at a modest price for this appellation. Also, the winner of the 2016 Barbaresco Battle. Drink this now, or hold for another 8 years. About $40.

-  March 6, 2019

Cosimo Taurino Salice Salentino Rosso Riserva 2010. Moderately intense nose of autumn leaves/forest floor, cherries, lavender, and a hint of smoke. Some noticible acidity and tannin, but not obtrusively so, this is in the middle stage of development, and show flavors of cherry cola, coffee, and licorice. Food friendly. 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera. Drink within 5 years. About $16.

-  March 5, 2019

Esporão Verdelho V 2016 (Alentejo). Crisp and vibrant, with aromas of lemons, fresh herbs, and flowers, this is a value bottling for warm day paired with a seafood salad. Medium-bodied, with flavors of white peaches, pears, almonds, and grass, plus a pleasant bitterness on the finish. Drink now. About $14.

-  March 4, 2019

Mitolo Shiraz G.A.M. 2006 (McLaren Vale). Blueberry and blackberry scents are effusive here, plus hints of smoke and freshly brewed coffee. Full-bodied, with well-defined acidity and purity. Plenty of dark fruits (plums/dark cherries) and vanilla notes. The finish sails on and on. Has lost any youthful brash, and is totally harmonious now. Mature, but if you happen to still have one, this will hold for a few more years. About $50.

-  March 2, 2019

Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf Du Pape 2005. Generous nose of black pepper, licorice, seaweed, and ink. Mature but still extremely powerful and long in the mouth, with intense, dark flavors like coffee, blackberries, and anise. Really well-integrated, showing precision and structure. This could easily last another 10 years. About $95.

-  March 1, 2019

La Cueva Cava Brut Reserva Non-Vintage. Chalky nose, with some ripe citrus fruit. Easygoing and enjoyable, both in texture and flavor, like limes and clementines, plus a stone fruit note. Offers noticible crushed rock qualities on the finish. Drink now. About $13.

Francisco Dominguez Cava Brut Nature Mercat Non-Vintage. Smells like white flowers and under-ripe peaches, this is lean, with very bright acidity and focus. With peach flavors and a racy finsih, this would pair really well with salty jamon and almonds. Drink now. About $13.

-  February 25, 2019

K Vintners Syrah Powerline 2015 (Walla Walla Valley). Dark and smoky, like a 90's nightclub, this is extracted and intense, with other notions of iodine, spice, paprika, leather, and lots of black pepper. You would be forgiven if you mistook this for a Northern Rhone, with that underbrush quality. The nose retains your interest over and over again. Full-bodied, rich and very long, with plenty of blueberry and blackberry fruit, paired with ripe tannin and acidity. Really, really impressive, this is a sure candidate for our top 10 list. Fantastic now, but has the stuffing to last at least another 15 years. About $45.

-  February 21, 2019

Albert Bichot Chablis Domaine Long-Depaquit 2016. Something like cottage cheese on the nose, but also fresh herbs, green pear, and tangerine. There's a hint of banana on the mid-palate, but mostly it's zippy citrus, like orange rinds and lime. Shows some surprising weight and length. The finish is where the river rock notes show up. Drink within a couple years. About $24.

-  February 18, 2019

Grifalco Aglianico del Vulture 2015. Exhibits lifted, focused scents of black plums and blueberries, plus hints of leather and dark spice that are a touch rustic. Fine-grained, solid tannins here are not obtrusive, supporting black olive and savory herb flavors, then an inky note on the finish. Get a bottle of this in the summer, and have it with a grilled NY strip. Drink now through 2025. About $15.    

-  February 13, 2019

Numanthia Termes 2007 (Toro). There's a hint of funkiness on the nose, like decaying mushrooms and forest floor, but there's also violets, red/blue fruits, and a roasted coffee note. Mature and supple texture, with excellent intensity and balance. Shows purity of fruit, and a pleasing, long, detailed finish, where components really harmonize. Drink within a few years. About $30.

-  February 10, 2019

Domaine Serge Laporte Sancerre 2017. From vines grown in the village of Chavignol comes this crisp, mineral-driven white, showing very good intensity and presence. Notions of lemongrass, river rock, and citrus rind. Racy, with a sense of elegance. Drink now. About $22.

-  February 8, 2019

Mollydooker Sparkling Shiraz Miss Molly 2016 (South Australia). Both rich and effervescent at the same time, this 15% alcohol, fully bubbly red has gone through second fermentation, resulting in a wine that's full of fun as well as vibrancy. Notes of very ripe blue and red berries, with hints of spice, chocolate, and vanilla. Easy to enjoy. Not long or with much obvious tannin, but would be great with a grilled burger or pork ribs. Drink now. About $27.

-  February 7, 2019

Can Blau 2016 (Montsant). Made from equal parts Mazuelo and Syrah, with the remainder Garnacha, this is a step up in quality from the less expensive "Blau" bottling, showing impressive smoke and mineral notes to go with the cherry fruit and licorice. Medium-bodied and very approachable, with solid purity and pop of acidity on the finish, where the tannins are light but ripe. Part of the Juan Gil Family group. Drink within a few years. About $16.

-  January 21, 2019

Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello 2009. Ruby red, with fantastic, classic scents of roses, truffle, cherries, and a hint of tar and gingerbread cookie. Focused and beautiful in the mouth, with refined tannins and impressive length. Exhibits really gorgeous texture and balance of fruit and licorice notes. At ten years old, this is nearing a perfect level of maturity, but will last for another 8. About $50.

-  January 16, 2019

Borsao Garnacha Tres Picos 2016 (Campo de Borja). Ripe cherries, smoke, and ink on the nose. This shows a decent amount of oak, with vanilla and coffee flavors, but there's also fun blueberry notes, with solid acidity on the finish. Not as rich or well rounded as previous vintages, but still a great value for this type of grenache. At 15% alcohol, but it doesn't show. Drink within a few years. About $17.

-  January 15, 2019

Château Pegau Pink Pegau Rosé 2017 (Vin de France). Orange/salmon in color and offering some richness for a rosé, but is grounded by plenty of acidity and freshness. Some intensity to the watermelon, raspberry, and peach flavors, ending with a touch of dried herbs. Dry. Would be great with some sticky barbecue pork ribs. Drink now. About $20.

-  January 14, 2019

Langmeil Shiraz/Viognier Hangin' Snakes 2013 (Barossa). A Côte Rotie styled blend, with just 4% Viognier, offering effusive scents of vanilla, blackberries, freshly brewed coffee, damp earth, and a dark spices. Medium-bodied and not heavy, with solid acids for lift, especially on the finish. Relatively restrained, but not without focus and good intensity, showing dark fruit and mocha notes. Drink within a few years. About $20.

-  January 12, 2019

Montaudon Champagne Grand Rosé Non-Vintage. Bread dough mixed with raspberries and cherries on the nose, plus a little bit of citrus. The citrus is more evident on the palate, but there's still plenty of ripe berries matched with vibrant acidity. Delicious. Made in a forward, open style that would please both Champagne nuts like us, but also anyone at a party. Made from 50% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier, and 30% Chardonnay. Drink now. About $50.

-  January 10, 2019

Louis Jadot Santenay Clos de Maltre 2015. Straw yellow in color, with just a hint of brown butter, caramel, and almonds on the nose, with a background of citrus peel. Vibrant palate that offers pineapple and lemon curd notes, staying fresh and harmonious. Well-made. Pair with a steamed lobster. Better to drink within a few years. About $45.

-  January 7, 2019

Scharffenberger Brut Non-Vintage (Mendocino County). One of our favorite values in domestic bubbly, this continues to offer an impressive amount of flavor and intensity for the price. Notions of red apple, butterscotch, ripe pear, and caramel on the nose, then a nicely focused and relatively dark palate, suggesting baked apple pie (with the spices) and a squeeze of citrus. Amazing that they can do this with such consistency, and at this price. Drink now. About $18.

-  December 30, 2018

Here our our most memorable wine recommendations of 2018, based on sheer wine pleasure and intellectual stimulation, but also very importantly, value:

#1 Lanson Brut Extra Age Non-Vintage Champagne

#2 Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (Mount Veeder)

#3 Shafer Relentless 2008 (Napa Valley)

#4 Moët & Chandon Champagne Brut Dom Perignon 2002

#5 Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon Wight Vineyard 2012 (Napa Valley)

#6 Résonance Pinot Noir 2016 (Willamette Valley)

#7 Colomé Malbec Estate 2015 (Salta)

#8 Domaine Faiveley Mercurey Clos des Myglands 2015

#9 JJ Vincent Pouilly Fuisse Marie Antoinette 2015

#10 Gruet Rosé Sauvage Non-Vintage (New Mexico)


Honorable mentions:

Juan Gil Blue Label 2016 (Jumilla)

Ridge Zinfandel East Bench 2016 (Dry Creek Valley)

Lucien et Andre Brunel Châteauneuf Du Pape Les Cailloux 2009

Torbreck The Steading 2013 (Barossa Valley)


-  December 26, 2018

Pike Road Pinot Gris 2015 (Willamette Valley). Restrained nose, hinting at stone fruit and a touch of reductive latex glove. With air, a kiwi fruit note emerges. Nicely made and very clean, with quiet citrus fruit and fine, crackling acidity. Ends with a pleasant bitterness. Great with food. Drink now. About $15.

-  December 17, 2018

Ca'Marcanda Promis 2013 (Toscana). Smoke, soy sauce, and plums on the nose, with an airy eucalyptus quality. Shows density in the mouth, with clearly evident but balanced tannins supporting flavors of blackberry, anise, and mint. The texture is welcoming despite the tannins, ending long and focused. Give this at least an hour to open up. Composed of Merlot, Syrah, and Sangiovese. Great now, but probably better in a year or so. About $50.

-  December 15, 2018

Schramsberg Brut Rosé Mirabelle Non-Vintage (California). We are huge fans of Schramsberg's vintage wines, but since we don't have an unlimited budget, it's always great to revist their less expensive non-vintage versions. Representing an outstanding value, this offers fantastic complexity for the price, with notions of strawberries, tangerine, tart red apples, active bread dough, and hints of grated ginger. Stays vibrant through the long finish, where a raspberry note emerges. Contains a minimum of 15% reserve wines. Made for early drinking, so don’t stash this in the cellar. About $24.

-  December 14, 2018

Midalidare Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Silver Angel 2017 (Thracian Valley). This crisp, mineral-driven white from Bulgaria show purity and focus, with notions of lemon zest, lime peel, and hints of green guava. There are some grassy notes too, and ends with a hint of spice. On the lean side, but has the energy to keep it going. Drink now. About $16.

-  December 11, 2018

Loveblock Sauvignon Blanc 2017 (Marlborough). Far better than your basic N.Z. Sauvignon Blanc, with surprising levels of fruit and intensity. Offers an impressive array of melon, ripe red grapefruit, flowers, honey tangerines, green pear, and mango. More exotic fruit shows up as it warms, but is balanced by snappy acidity and a hint of jalapeno pepper on the generous finish. Drink now. About $22.

-  December 9, 2018

Georges Duboeuf Fleurie Domaine des Quatre Vents 2015. Exhuberantly fruity, with both dark and red fruits, but grounded in refined tannins and acidity. Notions of blackberry, raspberry, coffee, and blueberry. Ends dark, with a interesting licorice and herbal note, with moderate weight. Shows depth and focus. Enough stuffing to last another five years. About $22.

-  December 5, 2018

Il Roverone Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore 2013. Impressive nose, with aromas of smoke, dark plums, cherries, and touches of leather. Medium-bodied, with supportive acidity to go with the red fruit and prune notes. Very ripasso method. Leaves a lasting impression. Would pair with well with aged cheeses. Not an overtly tannic wine, but should keep for at least 5 more years. About $27.

-  November 28, 2018

Castell del Remei Gotim Bru 2015 (Costers del Segre). Showing lip-smacking levels of fruit, backed by solid acidity and tannin, this is easy to enjoy, but not at all uninteresting. Lots of blueberry, blackberry, currant, and smoke qualities, plus a touch of spice and coffee. Made from equal parts Garnacha and Tempranillo, plus 15% Syrah and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Nice value. Best to drink within a few years. Only about $13.

-  Novemer 26, 2018

Teo Costa Barolo Monroj 2010. Scents of wet earth, like a walk in the woods after it has rained, plus shitake mushrooms, cloves, and orange rinds. Medium-bodied with generous cherry fruit, then roses and an anise note. Very approachable for Barolo, with subduded tannins. Drink now through 2026. About $40.

-  November 25, 2018

CàMaiol Lugana Maiolo 2017. Very clear, pale lemon-green in the glass, showing white truffle, Meyer lemon, and ripe tangerine notes. Nice purity and focus. Clean and brightly acidic, pairing well with a feta topped salad. Drink now. About $16.

-  November 23, 2018

Priest Ranch Grenache Blanc 2016 (Napa Valley). A rather unusual grape for Napa Valley, this is an estate grown, well-made wine, offering scents of tropical fruit (lychee/pineapple), plus a waxy note, then suggestions of pina colada. Maintains focus with solid acidity on the attack, then more exotic fruit, ending floral, with a bitter citrus pith note on the finish. Really interesting. Drink now through 2023. About $22.

-  November 20, 2018

Domaine Lafage Côte Est 2017 (Côtes Catalanes).  Lemons on the nose, with a hint of wax. Fresh and inviting, with vibrant pear, orange zest, and green herb notes. Like a Creamsicle on the finish, then a touch of lanolin. Well-made and great with food. Made from 50% Grenache, 30% Chardonnay, and 20% Roussanne. Drink now. About $12.

-  November 19, 2018

Ridge Zinfandel East Bench 2016 (Dry Creek Valley). Focused, dense, and briary, with plenty of dark fruit (boysenberries, blackberries, prunes), married to solid acidity. Coffee on the attack, then licorice at the close. Very nicely balanced at nearly 15%, it shows why Ridge are experts at this varietal. The kind of Zin that's still great with food. Better to drink within the next 6 years. About $36.

-  November 16, 2018

Domaine Faiveley Mercurey Clos des Myglands 2015. This monopole bottling offers reticent hints of black cherry and black tea on the nose. Maybe something metallic, or like cleanser. Really beautiful, caressing texture, with gorgeous purity of ripe fruit and acidity. Notions of forest floor on the finish. Represents an outstanding value for a Premier Cru. About $50.

-  November 13, 2018

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon Wight Vineyard 2014 (St. Helena). Opague red, offering fanastic, pure cassis aromas, then notions of cedar, dark cherries, freshly brewed coffee, and vanilla. Full-bodied, plush texture, showing a blast of both red and black fruit (blackberries!), moving to more savory notes, like sage, smoke, and dark tobacco. Licorice on the very long finish. Tells a complete story in the mouth. There's depth and purity to this. Wonderful now, and will last for at least 15 more years. About $75.

-  November 10, 2018

Résonance Pinot Noir 2016 (Willamette Valley). Garnet in color, with a nose suggesting fall leaves, cherries, orange rinds, and black tea. Medium-bodied, with impressive intensity to the dark and red fruit, with very good balance and focus, finishing with a cola note. Nice length! Shows that someone really cared about these grapes. From the folks at Louis Jadot. Drink now through 2023. About $35.

-  November 5, 2018

Domaine la Bouïssiere Vacqueras 2014. Stars off with an earthy (but not dirty) nose, like underbrush, dark loam, and crushed rocks. Later, some licorice amd spice notes emerge. The palate is rich with fruit (blackberry/cherries), plus more licorice and some freshly brewed coffee on the long finish. Sturdy structure, but not unapporoachable, with great density. Made from Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. Ready now, but probably better in a couple years. About $35.

-  November 1, 2018

Domaine la Toupie Qua Tuor 2016 (Cotes du Roussillon Villages). Dense, almost juicy, and loaded with smokey notes that pair with dark, wild fruit and licorice. Maybe a touch of iodine/seaweed on the finish. Impressive concentration and extract. Made from Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, and Mourvedre. Drink now through 2023. About $18.

-  October 23, 2018

Suavia Soave Classico 2016. Fresh and inviting, and made from 100% Garganega, this offers crisp pear, grass and herb notes, with a touch of orange rind. Has a sence of delicacy, but is by no means shy or lacking in ability to hold up to food. The minerality on the finish is intriguing. Drink now. About $16.

-  October 15, 2018

La Lecciaia Brunello di Montalcino 2010. Classic Sangiovese notes of dried tart cherries, plus hints of damp earth and dark flowers. Tastes exactly like this appellation should, with a robust, masculine quality and solid fruit. Some leather, espresso, and orange rind flavors that sail on through the uplifting finish. Great now, so you can pull the cork soon, but will hold for another 5 years or so. About $40.

-  October 14, 2018

Lanson Brut Extra Age Non-Vintage Champagne. Light gold, like a ray of sun, displaying a rich nose of honey, ripe clementines, dark spices, ginger, and a hint of forest mushroom. Much like a pineapple cocktail in the mouth, with generous volume and intensity. Vivid fruit (apples/oranges) and fantastic acidiy, ending with a hazelnut and chalk note. Something really special. This bottle was disgorged March of 2013, so there's no reason to wait for it to improve. About $95.

-  October 9, 2018

Ateca Garnacha Old Vines Atteca 2015 (Calatayud). Tipping the scales at 15.5% alcohol, this is not a shy wine, reminiscent of cherry liqueur on the nose, along with blueberries and vanilla. Medium to full-bodied and very ripe, with plenty of red fruit and licorice flavors, hinting at spices on the slightly hot finish. Supportive acidity keeps this together. An excellent value, this would pair well with barbecue pork spare ribs. Drink now through 2022. About $15.

-  October 8, 2018

Bruno Paillard Champagne Extra Brut Premeire Cuvée Non-Vintage. Bright nose, featuring white flowers, honey, and white grapefruit. Very elegant in the mouth, but also has great intensity to the mid-palate, with a lemon oil quality and a chalky finish. Some apple notes as it warms, paired with laser-like focus. This bottle was disgorged in May 2017. About $60.

-  October 3, 2018

Vignoble du Rêveur Pierres Sauvages 2016 (Alsace). Yellow in color, with a shy nose, hinting at dry earth, but the palate is generous, exhibiting flavors of honey, ripe apples, and pears. A bit of spiciness on the finish. Velvety texture and nearly rich, without being heavy. Excellent food wine. Made from 50% Pinot Blanc, 25% Pinot Gris, and 25% Pinot Noir. Drink now. About $20.

-  October 2, 2018

Teo Costa Nebbiolo d'Alba Ligabue 2015. Classic notions of tar and roses on the nose, plus truffles and cherries. Relatively open and ready to drink, this is a great introduction to Nebbiolo. Nicely balanced weight and acidity, showing red fruits and tobacco on the finish. Drink while your Barolos are aging. About $17.

-  October 1, 2018

Pere Ventura Cava Rosé Tresor Non-Vintage. Pink with a hint of orange, this value bubbly rosé is lively and very approachable, with tart strawberry, raspberry, and citrus notes that are forward and fun. A nice touch of crushed rocks on the finish helps to keep it interesting. Would be great with some salty tapas. 100% Trepat. Drink now. About $15.

-  September 28, 2018

Juan Gil Blue Label 2016 (Jumilla). Very dark color, followed by a smokey nose that also includes ink and blue/black fruit. Dense in the mouth, this comes off as a serious wine, with fantastic intensity and mouthcoating texture, showing more dark fruit notes and licorice. Impressive. Clearly better than the silver label version. This is 16.5% alcohol, but is not at all overbearing or hot. Drink now through 2026. About $30.

-  September 23, 2018

Schild Estate Shiraz 2015 (Barossa Valley). Opaque ruby red and glass-coating, offering scents of blackberries, cola, coffee, vanilla, and dark chocolate. Full-bodied, but not heavy, with a pleasing, open texture, balancing dark fruit and acidity. Great with a juicy, grilled burger. Not very tannic, so drink within 5 years. About $20.

-  September 19, 2018

Château Les Valentines Rosé Le Caprice de Clementine 2017 (Côtes de Provence). Light in color, with a hint orange. Tasty, showing a bit more complexity than most bottlings in this category, with tangerine, raspberry, and tart berry flavors, ending with a sour milk note. Good with mild cheese. Drink now. About $16.

-  September 17, 2018

Quinta de Chocapalha Arinto 2016 (Lisboa). Straw-yellow with more than a hint of green, this is a modest but well-made offering that's great with grilled veggies and swordfisth. There's some green pear and fresh herb scents, with a touch of petroleum. Bright, mouthwatering, and almost salty, exhibiting flavors of Asian pear and lime juice. Moderate intensity, but of very good quality. Drink now. About $15.

-  September 14, 2018

Domaine du Grand Montmirail Vacqueyras Le Grand Montmirail 2015. Allow this some time to breathe, because it takes some air for the intensity to emerge, but when it does, this comes off as really impressive, masculine, and dark. Shows espresso, blackberry, licorice, and charcoal scents. The palate offers black tea, ink, and a seaweed notions, ending with a black pepper note. Fantastic quality for the price. Made from 65% Grenache, the rest Syrah. Drink now through 2026. About $25.

-  September 11, 2018

JJ Vincent Pouilly Fuisse Marie Antoinette 2015. Fairly deep color, with notions of stone, white peach, grass, and lemons on the nose. Impressive volume for the price, offering mostly ripe pear and honeysuckle flavors, then a sense of lemon oil on the finish, paired with zippy acidity. Really well-made, with expert balance. Try with grilled tuna and end-of-summer veggies. Drink now through 2021. About $22.

-  September 3, 2018

Domaine des Vercheres Macon Villages 2016. Stony, like pebbles in a stream, then white peach, crisp pear, and subtle citrus. Lean, but not uninteresting, and it's the minerality that we love about it. Overall modest, but very enjoyable, and great with summer veggies. Not trying too hard. Drink now. About $16.

-  August 31, 2018

Domaine Carneros Brut 2012 (Carneros). Very pretty, straw colored, and refined, with scents of white flowers, hay, white mushrooms, and fresh bread. Just a hint of citrus on the nose, but more so on the palate, like very ripe lemon, paired with tart golden apples and a touch of spice. Elegant and refined. Even the texture is impressive. We can't remember a poor vintage of this. Drink now through 2022. About $27.

-  August 27, 2018

Ceretto Monsordo 2014 (Langhe). Dark color, and shows aromas of cola, lilacs, blackberries, and cassis. Some surprising levels of acidity -- but that mellows with air. Medium to full-bodied, with a mocha note on the finish, and then a burst of dark fruit. Not overtly tannic, but structured enough for rich beef. Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. Drink now through 2024. About $37.

-  August 26, 2018

Domaine de Pouilly Bourgogne Blanc 2015. Yellow in color with a touch of green, this shows subtle notions of white peaches, Meyer lemon, and river rocks. Fresh. There's a cookie dough note on the finish. Restrained, but not boring, and great with a salad. Drink now. About $22.

-  August 22, 2018

Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve Non-Vintage. Yet another fantastic bottle, this being one of our "go to" options for celebrations, offering scents of fresh bread dough, hazelnuts, red berries, and honey. Then there's a white chocolate note in the background. Almost rich, and full of dense flavors, but impressively balanced and harmonious, with both citrus and red fruit qualities, plus the leesy notes. This bottle was at the perfect stage of development. About $55.

-  August 20, 2018

Monte da Ravasqueira Branco 2016 (Alentejano). Very inviting, with notions of straw, ripe lemons, white peach, and some minerality. Clean and fresh. Has some zippy acidity and herbal notes on the finish that keeps it going. Great with grilled fish. An easygoing summer value. Drink now. About $10.

-  August 18, 2018

Argyle Brut 2014 (Willamette Valley). Dominated by Pinot Noir at 65%, with the rest Chardonnay and a touch of Pinot Meunier, this shows plentiful red berry scents, along with red apple, honey, and lemon curd. Very elegant and precise, with a crispy mid-palate, then the finish offers a burst of fruit and a subtle cracker quality. Very nicely done, and would probably be even better in a year. About $25.

-  August 15, 2018

Château Beauchêne Côtes du Rhône Rosé Le Pavillon 2017. Offers a pretty, bright red color with a hint of orange. There's plenty of fruit, like raspberry, cherry, and citrus notes, but also a pleasant bitterness to the finish that keeps it honest, with a solid level of acidity. Nice value. Made from 35% Cinsault, 35% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre, and 15% Syrah. Drink now. About $12.

-  August 6, 2018

Aia Vecchia Vermentino 2016 (Toscana). There's a blanched almond note to this, plus notions of peach, lemon/lime, and ocean rocks, like you're standing next to a crashing store. Would be great with a grilled whole fish. Nicely balanced, and also and nice value. Drink now. About $12.

-  August 5, 2018

Domaine Berthenet Montagny Tête de Cuvée 2016. A hint of green color. This is our kind of Chardonnay, with a vibrant character that sets off the lemon, river rock, apple, and white peach notes. Starts off bright, but ends darker, suggesting slate. Drink now. About $20.

-  August 2, 2018

Cusumano Etna Rosso Alta Mora 2015. Leathery on the nose, with dust and cherries, then an acetone note. Starts off rustic and front-loaded, but this needs air to reveal the blueberry and spice notes. Gains depth and intensity with air, and is great with grilled meat. 100% Nerello Mascalese. Drink now through 2022. About $21.

-  July 30, 2018

Zeni Costalago 2015 (Rosso Veronese). A touch earthy on the nose, like mushrooms and moss, then a Dr. Pepper quality, suggesting ripe fruit and spices. There's a freshness to this, backed by darker fruits (blackberries) and licorice notes. Great with food. Made from Corvina, Corvinone, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Drink now through 2022. About $15.

-  July 26, 2018

Can Blau Blau 2015 (Montsant). This is a solid value, made from 50% Mazuelo, 25% Syrah, and 25% Garnacha.  A bit of a wild quality on the nose, like some forest floor, plus plums, tobacco, something medicinal, and blackberries. Nice balance, mid-weight, but full of flavor. Some smoke on the finish. The Mazuelo component stands out. Drink now through 2023. About $14.

-  July 24, 2018

Château Macquin 2015 (Saint George Saint Emilion). Impressive expression and focus for the price, this is a great reminder of how good the 2015 vintage was in Bordeaux from top to bottom. Dark spices, cherries, blackberries, and sublte oak are all evident here. Medium-bodied, with licorice on the finish, then some hints of lavender. Excellent value. Great with braised beef. Drink now through 2026. About $19.

-  July 17, 2018

Condes de Albarei Albariño 2016 (Rías Baixas). A touch of dairy on the nose, plus an evergreen note, but these burn off with air, followed by a bright and fresh palate exhibiting peach and lemon qualities. Opens up to show some tart green pear and lime flavors. Not for contemplation, but at this price it doesn't matter, and would pair well with some salty tapas. Drink now. About $12.

-  July 15, 2018

Domaine Franck Millet Sancerre 2016. It's the minerality that really stands out with this, both on the palate and nose, like finely crushed limestone mixed with notions of limes and Asian pears. Not as generous as the 2015, but certainly not austere. Well-made, and great with food. Drink now. About $20.

-  July 12, 2018

Colomé Malbec Estate 2015 (Salta). Thick, opaque, and really dark red in the glass, with scents of cola, cherry, iodine, chocolate, and incense. Full-bodied and intense, and not at all similar to your average Malbec. There's a licorice component to this, then a lift of cranberry that balances out the ripe, plentiful tannin. Fantastic. From really high altitude vineyards. What a value! Drink now through 2026. About $25.

-  July 8, 2018

Domaine du Colombier Petit Chablis 2016. Dry, flinty, and crisp, this is our kind of Chardonnay, with crackling acidity supporting notions of hay, lemon rind, white peach, and fresh herbs. There's a lemongrass note here too. Restrained, but not austere, and fantastic with shellfish. Drink now. About $18.

-  July 7, 2018

Bodegas Ordoñez Zerran 2014 (Montsant). This deeply colored Spanish value features a heady nose of black licorice, ripe dark fruits, coffee, and barbecue smoke. Spicy on the palate, with medium body and great focus. A crushed rock note goes along with the anise and blackberry flavors. Made from 50% Garnacha, 40% Mazuelo, and 10% Syrah. Drink within 4 years. About $17.

-  June 30, 2018

Château Pesquie Rosé Terrasses 2017 (Ventoux). A bit shy on the nose, offering primarily strawberry aromas, but the palate is zippy and fresh, with pleasing raspberry and citrus rind notes. A river rock quality weaves it way through it all. Really nice balance, with admirable purity. Made from 50% Cinsault, 40% Grenache, and 10% Syrah. Drink now. About $15.

-  June 28, 2018

Orowines Bluegray 2015 (Priorat). Made from 45% Garnacha, 30% Mazuelo, and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a great introduction to this appellation. Shows solid dark aromas of licorice, smoke, charcoal, and squid ink. Medium-bodied, starting off a bit light, but gains volume and intensity with air. Lots of young tannin and acidity, with flavors of black cherry and hints of green pepper. We want a bit more out of this, but at this price for Priorat, we can easily recommend it. Drink now thorough 2023. About $20.

-  June 26, 2018

Moët & Chandon Champagne Brut Dom Perignon 2002. Both intense and extremely elegant, showing complex scents of candied lemon peel, ginger, white flowers, lemon curd, honey, and brioche. Gorgeous texture, with all the finesse that you would expect out of this bottling, paired with power and intensity. Dark ground spices on the very, very long finish. Takes you on a journey from brightness and citrus on the attack to a rich, umami quality at the close. A butterscotch and almond note emerges with air. Fantastic now, but will last for at least 8 more years. About $250.

-  June 19, 2018

Wine & Soul Quinta da Manoella Vinhas Velhas 2014 (Douro).  Offers scents of caramel, blackberries, and licorice/anise. This is structured and dense, with a really enjoyable crushed rock quality that's evident throughout. A relatively quiet attack showing some licorice notes, but the mid-palate is intense and masculine, with dark fruit and spices. Great with grilled meat. Drink now through 2035. About $80.

-  June 11, 2018

Brotte Saint Joseph Marandy 2015. Funky scents are strong initially, but there's solid blackberry and currant fruit underneath, plus a dairy note. The palate shows very good intensity and a dark profile, like black licorice, smoke, and charcoal. Briary. Drink now through 2024. About $22.

-  June 6, 2018

Teo Costa Barbaresco Lancaia 2012. Excellent purity here, with a classic aroma and flavor profile of cherries, tar, black tea, and roses. Some solid tannin, but it's also rather welcoming and open right now. Nice orange rind and coffee notes emerge with air. Great with a Bolognese sauce, and a great value for the appellation. Drink now through 2025. About $35.

-  June 3, 2018

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (St. Helena). A stunning wine of gorgeous purity and class. Focused cassis and black cherry notes, plus touches of smoke and vanilla. Stays elegant despite all the layers of fruit, ending with some cocoa powder and charcoal qualitites. Nearly 16% alcohol, but you would never guess it. Really wonderful at 10 years old, but shows no signs of slowing down. About $50.

-  June 1, 2018

Manciat-Poncet Mâcon-Charnay Les Chênes 2016. White peach, pear, Meyer lemon, and fresh herbs notes. Clean and crisp, ending with an orange rind quality and a touch of pineapple. Great for the summer. No hint of oak. Uncomplicated, but not at all boring. Drink now. About $16.

-  May 30, 2018

Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (Napa Valley). Thick, opaque bluish-red color is followed by abundant aromas of cassis, smoke, and cherries. Extremely full-bodied and super-rich, with plush amounts of fruit. Lavish texture. Hedonistic. Delicious. Long finish, hinting at black pepper and vanilla, then another wave of fruit. Not sublte, but also not over-the-top. Fantastic now, but will easily last another 12 years. About $70.

-  May 21, 2018

Jean Marc Brocard Chablis Sainte Claire 2016. A touch green in color, this single vineyard Chablis exhibits a hint of dairy on the nose, but mostly this is about green apples, juicy citrus, white flowers, and white peaches. A great chalky note on the clean finish. Fresh and vibrant, this is a well-made expression of Chardonnay. Drink now. About $21.

-  May 17, 2018

Domaine Houchart Rosé 2017 (Côtes de Provence). Over the past few years, this bottling has shifted in style from a lean, focused style to one displaying some richness and more overt flavors. The 2017 continues this trend, with a deeper color, more pronounced cherry and raspberry fruit, plus more body and presence. Very well-made, showing great purity. Try with a roasted chicken. Drink now. About $13.

-  May 14, 2018

Shafer Relentless 2008 (Napa Valley). Absolutely stunning, with jaw dropping levels of density, extract, and dark fruit, balanced by just the right amount of structure. Rich smoke, blackberry, and mocha notes that are focused and generous. Very full-bodied, and very long. Fantastic. Made from 75% Syrah and 25% Petite Sirah. At ten years old, this is gorgeous now, but will last for at least 10 more years. About $70.

-  May 12, 2018

Collet Champagne Brut Art Deco Non-Vintage. Loaded nose of honey, red apples, and fresh bread dough, plus a hint of ginger. Not a delicate or nuanced style, but offering lots of effusive pineapple and citrus flavors. Maintains focus with solid acidity. Lively. Kind of a crowd-pleaser, in a really great way, and also a real value. Drink now. About $36.

-  May 10, 2018

A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir The Essence of Oregon 2015 (Oregon). There's an interesting dark ground spice quality on the nose, like cinnamon and nutmeg. The palate is fleshy and generous, offering bright cherry, cola, and black raspberry flavors. Well-balanced and approachable, but also impressively built for the price. An earthy smoke quality provides a bass note. Drink now through 2023. About $29.

-  May 8, 2018

Cusumano Etna Bianco Alta Mora 2016. Shy nose, hinting at white peaches and bartlett pear, but there's a real sense of place with this, showing the volcanic soil the grapes were grown on. Some meyer lemon notes on the palate, with more finely crushed rock qualities and zippy acidity. Good presence. Great with a salad. Drink now. About $25.

-  May 4, 2018

Gloria Ferrer Brut Rosé Non-Vintage (Carneros). Offers a solid mix of strawberry, red grapefruit, cranberry, and apple notes on an easygoing, open-knit frame. Maybe a touch of honey on the finish. We wish it was a bit more dry, but would also be a crowd pleaser at a party. Good acidity keeps this honest. Drink now. About $25.

-  May 3, 2018

Lucien et Andre Brunel Châteauneuf Du Pape Les Cailloux 2009. Fantastic, with exceptional balance of cherry fruit and acidity, without any sense of heat or over-ripeness. There's river rock quality here, plus licorice, iodine, and dried herbs. Full-bodied, showing focus and intensity. Some smoke notes emerge with air. Very impressive and long. Made from 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 12% Syrah, and 3% Cinsault. Drink now through 2026. About $50.

-  May 2, 2018

D'Orsay Rosé 2018 (Côtes de Provence). Pretty color. Vibrant and fresh, showing notions of white peaches and strawberries, this is perfect for a summer picnic. Not contemplative, but with balanced fruit and zippy acidity. Pair with a sandwich and a view of the ocean. Drink now. About $12.

-  April 30, 2018

Monte da Ravasqueira Vinha das Romãs 2014 (Alentejano). Opaque. A dark and intense nose, hinting at smoke and graphite, with the palate showing the same amount of intensity to the black pepper, blackberry, and mocha notes. Medium-bodied and concentrated. Not for lighther meats -- try with a rib eye steak. Syrah and Touriga Franca. Drink now through 2025. About $25.

-  April 28, 2018

Montes Syrah Alpha 2013 (Colchagua Valley). Notions of black pepper, wild berries, celery, charcoal, and underbrush are evident on the nose. There's a medicinal note on the palate, along with an iodine quality, plus cured meats and fine tannins. Features good definition and impressive intensity. More like a northern Rhone than a New World wine. Gains volume with air. Drink now through 2022. About $19.

-  April 25, 2018

Domaine Saint Damien Gigondas Les Souteyrades Vielles Vignes 2012. Has a hint of amber color, then the nose is of campfire, black pepper, licorice, and seaweed. Shows excellent intensity and balanced acidity, with more of that nori quality, plus cherries, wild berries, and underbrush. Refined texture, finishing with more black pepper. Nicely done for the vintage, though best consumed early. About $35.

-  April 24, 2018

Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc 2016 (Walker Bay). Plenty of gooseberry, zippy citrus, and freshly mown grass scents, with a touch of limestone. Deliciously balanced, showing both vibrancy and purity of fruit, reminiscent of lime juice, fresh herbs, and a hint of passion fruit. Drink now. About $15.

-  April 23, 2018

Gruet Rosé Sauvage Non-Vintage (New Mexico). Made from 100% Pinot Noir and receiving no dosage, this features a very lively bead and pretty color, followed by scents of bread dough and strawberries. Extremely impressive for the price, with no sense of austerity, but has razor sharp focus allied to a wealth of cranberry and raspberry fruit. Crushed rocks on the finish. Would pair with a wide range of food. Drink now. About $19.

-  April 17, 2018

Dominio de la Plata Malbec Crios Susana Balbo 2014 (Mendoza). A good amount of chocolate on the nose, plus wild berries, coffee, and smoke. Open-textured and easy to enjoy, featuring ripe, soft tannin and delicious dark fruit flavors. Ends with some spices and a hint of cream. Would be great with a summer barbecue. Drink within a couple of years. About $14.

-  April 16, 2018

Château La Fleur Haut Carras Cuvée Bénédicte 2015 (Pauillac). A really interesting graphite quality to the nose, layered with cassis, blackberries, and underbrush. Focused, with very good intensity. Medium-bodied, revealing more with air. A lavender note pushes through toward the finish. At this price, it's a remarkable value for this appellation. Decant to drink now, and will last for at least 10 years. About $30.

-  April 15, 2018

Domaine Cheysson Beaujolais Blanc L'Exception 2015. Energetic lime peel, mandarin orange, and green pear notes that are lively and clean. Uncomplicated, but enjoyable. Finishes a bit short, but does offer an interesting ginger quality. Made from 100% Chardonnay from Chiroubles. Drink now. About $17.

-  April 10, 2018

Zorzettig Sauvignon Blanc 2016 (Friuli Colli Orientali). Offers some richness, like lemon oil and lemon verbena, allied with solid acidity and a fresh herb note. The length and presence is impressive, featuring some crushed limestone qualities. Excellent value. About $13.

-  April 9, 2018

Arrumaco Verdejo 2016 (Vino de España). Delightfully bright and cheerful, with plenty of lime juice qualities that are fresh and clean, but not overly sharp. Shows remarkable purity, especially at this price, plus hints of green pear, mandarin orange, and white almonds. Would be great with some salty tapas. Drink now. About $10.

-  April 7, 2018

Schramsberg Brut Rosé 2013 (North Coast). Made from 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, this might be slightly less exhuberant compared to the 2012, but is just about as enjoyable, with fantastic notions of strawberries, cranberries, lemon, and orange rind. Generous and really fun to drink, but with plenty of verve and presence. Excellent. Drink now through 2023. About $37.

-  April 6, 2018

Selbach Oster Riesling Kabinett Trocken Zeltinger 2015. Just a hint of Vaseline here, but it's really more about white peach, apricot, green pear, and tons of minerality. Crunchy acidity that's mouthwatering and inviting. Not complex, but is great with food, and gives us hope for warmer weather. Drink now. About $22.

-  April 5, 2018

Joseph Faiveley Bourgogne 2015. Faiveley's "basic" red Burgundy is anything but, showing scents of black cherries, leather, wet leaves, and tobacco. Great attack, throwing out a clove note, then more delicious fruit and peppy acidity. Excellent focus. Doesn't have the depth of smaller appellations, but is a fantastic example of a great producer's entry-level wine in an outstanding vintage. Drink now through 2011. About $22.

-  April 3, 2018

Château Recougne Bordeaux Blanc 2016. Easy to enjoy notions of lemon, white grapefruit, hay, apple, and green pear. Very crisp and refreshing. The melon notes appear with air. The kind of white Bordeaux we really enjoy with casual food. Made from 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Semillon. Drink now. About $13.

-  April 2, 2018

Dominio de la Plata Malbec BenMarco 2014 (Uco Valley). From 3,000 foot elevation vineyards comes this concentrated and focused example that really expresses the development of the grape skins, like you can tell how the wealth of Mendoza ultraviolet rays have hit them. Blackberry, charcoal, and coffee flavors, with a hint of cinnamon the finish. With fine tannins and medium-body, it's very expressive of place. Great value. Drink now through 2024. About $24.

-  March 29, 2018

Finca Villacreces Pruno 2014 (Ribera del Duero). Lots of darkness on the nose, like licorice, blackberries, smoke, and roasted coffee beans. Medium to full-bodied. Shows depth and intensity, along with freshness and fine tannins. Cedar on the finish. A dense, dark style that's well made, though not quite as welcoming as Pruno is in other years. Still, and outstanding value. Drink now through 2024. About $21.

-  March 26, 2018

Torbreck The Steading 2013 (Barossa Valley). Made from 61% Grenache, 28% Mataro, and 11% Shiraz, this exhibits a very pretty color, just barely hinting at orange, then a nose of crushed cherries and cola. Really beautiful, velvety texture, showing more cherry notes with some blueberries and mocha, then ending with licorice on the impressive finish. Drink now through 2022. About $35.

-  March 22, 2018

Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (Mount Veeder). Made with 18% Malbec, Hess has done and outstanding job in this bottling from their Mount Veeder vineyards, coming from vines grown at 600-1,200 feet in elevation. The nose exhibits no shortage of cassis, blueberry, roasted coffee, and licorice notes, while maintaining elegance and focus. The palate has all the intensity you would expect of mountain fruit, with very fine tannins that are bathed in fruit and smoke notes. Long finish that hints of spice. Spent 22 months in 80% new oak. Fantastic now, but will last for another 10 years. About $65.

-  March 21, 2018

Roble del Convento 2014 (Ribera del Duero). Dark, extracted, and hearty, delivering solid fruit and spicy qualities, with an old-school character. Good acidity here. Medium-bodied, with excellent density of flavors, finishing with some smoke and leather notes, plus more dark fruit. Drink now through 2024. About $21.

-  March 20, 2018

Aubry Champagne Brut Premier Cru Non-Vintage. Golden hue, then an effusive nose of honeysuckle, bread dough, raspberries, and orange rind. Pretty brisk on the palate, with plenty of acidity and citrus notes, plus a hint of biscuit. Chalk on the finish. Well-made, precise, and benefits from some air. This bottle was disgorged in July 2015. Drink within a few years. About $40.

-  March 15, 2018

Pasqua Passione e Sentimento 2015 (Veneto). A bit of a shy nose, but the palate features interesting, fun, and concentrated cherry and blueberry flavors. Medium body, with not a lot of tannin, but the acidity is solid. Prune/licorice on the finish. Made from partially dried Merlot, Corvina, and Croatina grapes. Great with food. Drink now through 2021. About $15.

-  March 12, 2018

Castellani Vermentino 2016 (Toscana). Love the minerality here, showing up in both the nose and through the finish, along with notions of fresh herbs, light citrus, and ripe pear. Really pretty. Fresh and easy to enjoy. Would be great with some grilled prawns. Drink now. About $15.

-  March 9, 2018

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon Wight Vineyard 2012 (Napa Valley). Wow. This is fully loaded with notions of pencil shavings, tons of cassis and blackberries, and then some vanilla and milk chocolate. Full-bodied and opulently textured. Ends long, with some licorice and smoke notes to go with the roasted coffee beans. No shortage of fruit, but is contained by refined structure, staying complete and harmonious. Drink now through 2025. About $75.

-  March 7, 2018

Jean-Marc Burgaud Régnié Vallières 2015. Dark cherries, rosemary, and something leafy, like green tobacco on the nose. Medium-bodied, and great with food, exhibiting mostly strawberry notes in the mouth, with pleasant acidity that's bordering on tart, but stays honest and balanced with the fruit. Ends with a spice note. Drink now through 2021. About $16.

-  March 5, 2018

Teo Costa Barbera d'Alba Castellinaldo 2014. Made in a pleasing, approachable style, with lots of tasty cherry notes, but with balanced acidity and verve. Great attack, with a burst of plums and licorice, then finishes with energetic coffee and red fruit. Medium-bodied. More modern in style, in a great way, still pairing well with food. Drink now through 2012. About $19.

-  March 4, 2018

Château d'Aiguilhe Seigneurs d'Aiguilhe 2014 (Côte de Bordeaux). Deeply colored, with generous scents of blueberries, flowers, blackberries, and dark tobacco. Forward and direct, without being uninteresting, showing good intensity to the dark fruit, then tar, coffee, and graphite notes, with gentle tannin and solid acidity. Made for early drinking. About $19.

-  February 27, 2018

Douceur de Provence Rosé 2016 (Côtes du Provence). Strawberries and raspberries on the nose, but the palate is more like melons, with a really nice chalky minerality on the finish. Not complicated, but tasty, vibrant and great with food. Made from 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Cinsault. Drink now. About $13.

-  February 26, 2018

Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Châteauneuf Du Pape La Crau 2004. Rich, dense wine, with fantastic intensity as well as focus, showing notions of seaweed, smoke, dark cherries, dried herbs. Fleshy, but with solid tannin and acidity that's reflective of the vintage. Nice minerality, as well as a black pepper note on the finish too. Ready now, but will last for eight or more years. About $60.

-  February 23, 2018

Château Ducasse Bordeaux Blanc 2016. Clear and very focused, with grass/jalapeno pepper notes to go with lime juice and clementine. Very bright and vibrant, this fun to drink, and would make an excellent aperitif, or with some grilled scallops. Drink now. About $16.

-  February 22, 2018

Allegrini Palazzo della Torre 2014 (Veronese). Made from a combination of regular and partially dried Corvina and Rondinella grapes, this offers scents of smoke, black fruit, dark tobacco, and savory herbs. Balanced acidity drives the dark palate along, with medium-body and no sense of hardness to the noticible tannin. We can't remember a poor vintage of this bottling. Drink within 5 years. About $22.

-  February 14 ,2018

Louis Latour Pouilly-Fuisse 2015. Apricot, white peach, lime, and hints of cottage cheese on the nose. No oak. Smooth, impressive mouthfeel, with no hard edges and lots of body that is expressive of the vintage. Plenty of acidity and freshness, like a tasty green apple. We love the intensity here -- it's our type of Chardonnay. Drink now through 2021. About $25.

-  February 9, 2018

Paitin Barbaresco Serra 2011. Classic profile of roses and tar, with deft balance and precision, showing some eucalpyptus on the long finish. Really beautiful aromatically, and there's a interesting savory, dried herb/soy sauce/mushroom quality for complexity. Tannins are not at all harsh, but certainly supportive and present. Shows a sense of place. Very Barbaresco. Drink now through 2030. About $38.

-  February 8, 2018

Errazuriz Carmenere Reserva Max 2015 (Aconagua Valley). Some interesting dark earth and tobacco notes on the nose, along with raspberry and boysenberry. Good intensity and balance of acidity, showing dark plum and milk chocolate flavors, then the finish is full of ripe tannin and a squid ink note. Nicely done, and great with grilled meat. Drink now through 2021. About $16.

-  February 6, 2018 

Kourtakis Assyrtiko Greek Wine Cellars 2016 (Santorini). Love the intense, fine minerality here, especially on the palate, like you can taste the volcanic soil this is grown on. Clean, with plenty of acidity, showing mostly citrus notes, like oranges and lemons. Restrained, but not boring. Would be excellent with a grilled fish. Drink now. About $20.

-  February 4, 2018

Vignerons de Buxy Montagny Buissonnier 2015. Delicious crispy apple, white peach, and fresh flower notes, paired with crackling acidity and verve. Ends with a nice hint of white pepper. Welcoming and food friendly. Turns almost juicy with air. Drink now. About $16.

-  February 3, 2018

Casca Branco Cabo da Roca 2016 (Lisboa). Made from 40% Chardonnay, 30% Fernão Pires, and 30% Vital, this is offers aromas of perfumed talcum powder, lemons, and a hint of almonds. More lemons on the palate. Uncomplicated, bright, and refreshing, finishing with a nice touch of bitterness. Great with grilled seafood. Drink now. About $11.

-  January 28, 2018

Château La Mission Haut Brion 1998 (Pessac-Leognan). Rich color with some fading, followed by a somewhat shy nose of graphite, lavender, iron shavings, blackberries, and chocolate. Intense palate, however, reminiscent of blackberry jam, eucayluptus, and rosemary. Still plenty of tannin here, but also retains a sense of elegance and focus. Great wine, and worth a recommendation, but certainly not a great value at this price. Ready now, but will last for at least another 15 years. About $425.

-  January 26, 2018

Fumanelli Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2014. There's a strong iodine note to the nose, or more like pen ink, but the blue/black fruit still pokes out, along with ground dark spices and licorice. Medium-bodied, with fresh acidity and more of that licorice note on the palate. Finishes with a pine-like quality. Interesting. Drink now through 2023. About $17.

-  January 25, 2018

Tamí Grillo 2016 (Terre Siciliane). Fresh and vibrant, offering scents of buttered, toasted roll, nuts, and hints of pomelo. Good acidity here, citrusy, and a touch of latex glove. Try with a roasted fish dish. Drink now. About $14.

-  January 24, 2018

Clos du Mont-Olivet Côtes du Rhône Vieilles Vignes 2015. White pepper, blueberries, cherries, and a hint of iodine on the nose. Both youthful and hearty, with a mild attack, but really kicks in on the mid-palate, showing dense iron, seaweed, and black fruit notes. Great finish, intensity, and structure for the price. Drink now through 2023. About $18.

-  January 9, 2018

Domaine Lafage Côte Est 2016 (Côtes Catalanes). Fresh and uncomplicated, but well-executed at the same time, with notions of lemons, ripe star fruit, oranges, and melon. Zippy acidity. Medium-bodied. Delicious. Made from an unusual blend of Grenache Blanc, Chardonnay, and Roussanne. Drink now. About $12.

-  January 7, 2018

Rui Roboredo Madeira Bruto Vinhas Velhas 2014 (Beira Interior). This value, vintage-dated sparkler from Portugal is clean and refreshing, with notions of green pear and light citrus. Dry, with fine bubbles, and finishing with nice minerality. Made fromn Síria grapes, also known as Roupeiro. Would make a solid aperitif. Drink now. About $17.

-  January 6, 2018

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (Knights Valley). The team at Beringer deserves applause once again for yet another great Knights Valley Cabernet. As usual, this bottling exhibits a characteristic purity of cassis, plus mocha, spices, black cherries, and plums. This year's version is even more plush, with a very rounded mouthfeel. Full-bodied and welcoming, this is made for early drinking, but should last for another 5 years at least. If this had "Napa" on the label, they could easily charge $20 more for it. About $26.

-  January 5, 2018

Gautheron Chablis Chablis Les Fourneaux Premier Cru 2015. Shows clarity and focus, with just a hint of earthiness on the nose, but mostly it's all about green apples, clementines, and fresh parsley/mint. Vibrant, finishing with lots of crushed limestone. Mouthwatering and refined. For a Premier Cru, this is an excellent value. Drink now through 2022. About $25.

-  January 3, 2018

Château Pesquié Terrasses 2015 (Ventoux). This year's version of Terrasses red offers lots of smoke and seaweed scents, plus some black licorice notes that continue on the palate. Medium-bodied and without heavy tannin, but really screams Southern France, with that sense of underbrush to go with the fruit. Serve this with some roasted meat. Made from 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah. Drink now through 2021. About $15.

-  January 2, 2018

Château La Grange Clinet 2015 (Côtes de Bordeaux). Shy nose of red bell peppers and licorice, but the palate is plump and almost generous, with very pleasing coffee, bacon, plum, and cedar notes. Medium-bodied, and tasty with a roasted chicken, this is a really good value for basic Bordeaux, and from an oustanding vintage. Made from 68% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2022. About $17.

December 31, 2017

We've had an outstanding year of wine recommendations in 2017, but the list below are the ones that stood out in our minds as the best of the best.

#1 Krug Champagne Brut 2000

#2 Chateau Troplong-Mondot 2003 (Saint Emilion)

#3 Louis Roederer Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2009

#4 Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon Wight Vineyard 2010 (Napa Valley)

#5 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2010 (Napa Valley)

#6 Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche Brunate 1997

#7 Moët & Chandon Brut Rosé Champagne Grand Vintage 2006

#8 Bodegas El Nido Clio 2013 (Jumilla)

#9 Numanthia-Termes Termes 2004 (Toro)

#10 Ridge Geyserville 2009 (Sonoma County)

Honorable mentions:

Jacquart Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne 2006

Roederer Estate Brut L'Ermitage 2007 (Anderson Valley)

Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs 2012 (North Coast)

Mitolo Shiraz G.A.M. 2005 (McLaren Vale)

Domaine Carneros Brut 2010 (Carneros)


-  December 18, 2017

Ramos Pinto Duas Quintas 2014 (Douro). There's a bit of a leathery/tobacco edge on both the nose and palate, with an overall dark, brooding character. Still, there's a hint of mint to go with the dark fruit, with moderate, chunky tannin and acidity. Feels like this needs a grilled steak to really shine. Drink now through 2023. About $15.

-  December 11, 2017

Saint Cosme Côtes du Rhône 2015. Lavender, rosemary, and underbrush scents, with just a hint of coffee and anise. Maybe a touch of skunk. Tastes much like it smells, showing that dried herbal quality paired with solid fruit. Really great attack. Black licorice on the finish, but we wish the flavors would sustain a little longer. Still, this is a very well-made wine. About $17.

Saint Cosme Côtes du Rhône 2016. A bit brighter than the 2015, with more sweet processed fruit scents, like blueberry and raspberry flavorings. More coffee flavors than the 2015, but also more generous with fruit and pronounced acidity. The texture of the 2015 is better, however. Turns darker and more integrated with air, with really good intensity. Ends with a hint of licorice and some tannic closure. About $17.

-  December 8, 2017

Paolo Scavino Barolo 2010. Deep and contemplative nose, like eucalyptus, autumn leaves, and mushrooms, but there's a sweetness to it, like a pleasant cigar smoke, and something medicinal. Refined and pretty, with linear acidity. Holds together elegantly. Not a powerhouse Barolo, but is admirable for its focus, ending with some coffee and cherry notes before the tannins take over. Drink now through 2025. About $40.

-  December 5, 2017

Alto Moncayo Veraton 2014 (Campo de Borja). Made from 100% Garnacha, this offers a fantastic nose of burning incense, cherry liqueur, and crushed blueberries. Shows consistency between vintages, with notions of milk chocolate, tons of black/blue fruit, licorice, and grilled herbs. Full-bodied and intense, and tipping the scales at 15.5% alcohol, this is no shy wine, with plush texture and generosity. Drink now through 2023. About $30.

-  November 26, 2017

Luca Pinot Noir G Lot 2013 (Mendoza). Made from vines grown at 4,790 feet in elevation, this exhibits some real intensity and focus, with scents like a hike in the fall forest, plus bright cherries and coffee. Great acidity and freshness, but it's also dark in flavor profile, with more of that coffee note, then ripe fruit and a touch of cola. Finishes long, offering notions of spice drawer. Cool stuff. Not an easygoing style. Drink now through 2012. About $28.

-  November 24, 2017

Torbreck Shiraz The Struie 2013 (Barossa). Shows fantatic intensity and the right amount of extraction, with lots of wild berry, smoke, and dark coffee notes. Really great, fine tannins here, finishing long, with a black pepper note. Gains volume with air. Balanced acidity and flesh that's exellent now, but will last for another 8 years. About $50.

-  November 23, 2017

Silverado Sauvignon Blanc Miller Ranch 2015 (Napa Valley). This estate grown Sauvignon Blanc is kind of a hybrid of California and New Zealand versions, in a really great way, with notions of lime zest, tangerine, passion fruit, guava, and red grapefruit. Zippy acidity and freshness, finishing with an herbal/bell pepper note. Has good presence and great focus. Charming. Drink now. About $25.

-  November 21, 2017

Bodegas Shaya Shaya 2015 (Rueda). Bright, with lemon, white peach, and green pear scents. Medium-bodied, showing a hint of wax to go with the red apple and cantaloupe notes. Really enjoyable and almost juicy, finishing with a lime zest and clementine quality. Great acidity to keep it lively. Verdejo. Drink now. About $15.

-  November 20, 2017

Chateau Troplong-Mondot 2003 (Saint Emilion). The 2003 is at a perfect stage of development, with soaring aromatics like burning ember, blackberries, and mocha. Gorgeous medium to full-bodied texture that coats the palate with generous black fruits and very fine ripe tannins, with just a hint of iron and lavender. Voluptuous. Hard not to put down. Absolutely wonderful now, but will last for at least another 5-8 years. About $100.

-  November 14, 2017

Errekalde Txakolina Hiruzta Txakolina 2016 (Getariako Txakolina). Fun and slightly spritzy, with cleansing acidity that pairs well with salty/fatty snacks, or as an apertif. Mainly citrus peel, grass, and fresh herb notes. Drink now. About $16.

-  November 12, 2017

Numanthia-Termes Termes 2004 (Toro). Made from 30 year old ungrafted Tinta de Toro vines (the local version of Tempranillo), this exhibits fantastic scents of freshly brewed coffee, black pepper, plums, and blueberries. Amazing intensity and focus on the attack, then a blast of fruit and tobacco on the mid-palate, with mature structure and balance. The finish really sails on. Gorgeous now, but will last at least another 5 years. About $85.

-  November 10, 2017

Ployez-Jacquemart Extra Quality Brut Non-Vintage. Golden straw colored, with striking aromas of honey, tangerines, and brioche, this is very well-balanced while being full of flavor and intensity. Caramel, lime zest, and some apple notes. Great texture and finesse, staring off darker then moves to brightness, finishing with a saline quality. Drink now. About $38.

-  November 7, 2017

Sarl Jean Merieau Touraine Les Hexagonales 2016. A hint of wet wool or cheese on the nose, but there's no funkiness in the mouth, with zippy notions of lime zest and pink grapefruit. Finishes with a touch of minerality. Doesn't seem as fun as the 2015, but is fresh and great with food. About $11.

-  November 5, 2017

Ridge Lytton Springs 2009 (Dry Creek Valley). As usual with Ridge wines, this exhibits outstanding purity, focus, and precision, showing wild berries on the nose, then blueberries, anise, and plums in the mouth. There's a sense of elegance, without sacrificing intensity, as well as very fine tannins for structure and texture. Delicious. Made from 71% Zinfandel, 23% Petite Sirah, and 6% Carignane. Best to drink this one within a few years -- it has already reached its peak. About $50.

-  November 3, 2017

Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana 2009. Beautiful and perfumed nose of roses, tar, black tobacco leaf, and iron shavings. Shows intensity and extract, with the darker, masculine side of Nebbiolo evident. Fine tannins and solid acidity, finishing with spices, cherries, and a cured meat note. Great now, but will be better in a few years, lasting for 15+ years. About $80.

-  November 1, 2017

Campo al Mare Vermentino 2015 (Bolgheri). Loads of minerals on the nose, like limestone or river rocks, smelling clean and fresh. Just a hint of tropical fruit, suggesting rambutan, plus lemons and more of that fine minerality. Nicely done, and great with salty food. Drink now. About $21.

-  October 26, 2017

Domaine Lafage Bastide Miraflors 2015 (Côtes du Roussillon). Made from Syrah and Grenache, this exhibits scents of seaweed, licorice, plums, and graphite. Focused, with great intensity for the price, showing black fruit, mocha, and smoke notes. Has density and focus, with a peppery/toffee. More like a ripe Vacqueras in profile, this represents and excellent value. Drink now through 2021. About $16.

-  October 20, 2017

Krug Champagne Brut 2000. A stunning wine that combines power and elegance into a completely harmonious, intense package. Shows gorgeous scents of honey, butterscotch, hazelnuts, red apples, and a hint of dried flowers. Rich, but with fantastic, vibrant acidity and a saline/chalky note. Bread dough, with hints of nuts and ginger on the long finish. Certainly one the greatest Champagnes we've tasted, this is actually youthful, and should last for at least 10 more years. About $255.

-  October 17, 2017

Ponte da Barca Alvarinho Reserva 2016 (Minho). Very energetic and inviting, with notions of lemon zest, white peaches, and fresh herbs. Has a nice rocky quality, like you're standing next to a quarry, but also verges on elegant. Easy to like. Drink now. About $14.

-  October 15, 2017

Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco 2016. Like a bowl of ripe peaches and lemons on the nose, this is lively and expressive. Delicious acidity and minerality, with a crisp but welcoming texture that supports stone fruit and tart apple flavors. Works well with grilled seafood. Drink now. About $18.

-  October 10 , 2017

Bedrock Zinfandel Old Vines 2014 (California). Notions of dried herbs on the nose (rosemary, thyme) plus black cherries and plums. Shows purity on the palate, with licorice and black fruit. Starts off powerful, then shifts to a sense of definition and elegance. Well-made. Drink now through 2023. About $25.

-  October 8, 2017

Quinta do Crasto Reserva Old Vines 2011 (Douro). A bit shy on the nose, but swirling reveals scents of cherry, mace, iron, honey, and smoke. An unapologetic and masculine wine, with density and structure, though is not hard and unforgiving. Cherry and licorice flavors. Needs air. Develops nuance and focus, with notions of crushed rocks on the finish. Ready now, but will last at least 15 years. About $40.

-  October 5, 2017

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2010 (Napa Valley). Offers a fantastic mix of roasted coffee, black currant, tobacco, and chocolate scents. Gorgeous texture, with very fine, but persistent tannins that support focused cassis, espresso, and black cherry flavors. Full-bodied and extracted. Impressive finish has a graphite/smoke quality. Long and intense, especially with some air. A bit more structured than some vintages. Always a treat. Ready now, but don't worry about holding on to it for another 15 years, at least. About $150.

-  October 3, 2017

Côte Mas Rosé Aurore 2016 (Pays d'Oc). With a fairly intense color and orange peel scents, this is fresh and lively, showing flavors of raspberries and citrus. Totally tasty and easy to like, and in a 1 liter bottle. Easygoing. Made from 30% Cinsault, 20% Syrah, and 50% Grenache. Drink now. About $11.

-  October 2, 2017

Brotte Côtes du Rhône Blanc Esprit Barville 2015. Offers some dusty/chalky scents, with hints of lanolin and red apples. Bright and focused in the mouth, having flavors of limes, oranges, ripe pears, and wax. An exotic spice quality adds interest to the moderate finish. Really like the minerality here. Drink now through 2019. About $12.

-  September 30, 2017

William Fevre Chile Chardonnay La Mision 2014 (Maipo Valley). If you put this in a blind tasting of village Chablis, you woudn't blame anyone for singling this out as an outlier. Smells like flinty, crushed rocks, and is super vibrant on the palate, with suggestions of limes and white peach. But this is more about the minerality, where it really stays focused. With air, some orange and pear notes emerge. Fantastic value. Drink now through 2020. About $15.

-  September 27, 2017

Mittelbach Rosé 2016 (Niederösterreich). This Zweigelt rosé is bright and focused, with notions of cherries, flowers, lemon peel, and strawberries. Has a great line of minerality throughout. Shows composure. Drink now through 2020. About $16.

- September 26, 2017

Vesevo Falanghina 2015 (Beneventano). Crisp and floral nose, like a bunch of lillies, then an almond note emerges with air. Tasty, zippy, and fresh, with green melon and citrus flavors. Not complex, but is very enjoyable with food. Drink now. About $16.

-  September 25, 2017

Il Roverone Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2011. Looks thick, with dense color, then scents of ripe, concentrated cherries, mocha, and pine. Extremely full-bodied and almost syrupy, with a black pepper note on the attack, moving to blue and red fruit. Super-ripe and dense, and nearly over-the-top. At 16.5% alcohol, this is powerful, but manages to retain focus with acidity. Finishes long, with a cough medicine quality, plus a pipe tobacco note. Great now, but will last for at least another 8 years. About $60.

-  September 15, 2017

Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf du Pape 2009. Offers port-like aromas of intense black fruit, preserved cherries, and melted licorice. Full-bodied and massively rich, with mouthcoating chocolate, plum, and cherry liqueur notes. Not shy, probably close to 16% alcohol. Finishes with a bitter orange rind quality, plus hints of smoke. Really intense. Ready now, but will last for another 8 years. About $60.

-  September 14, 2017

Domaine La Garrigue Côtes du Rhône Cuvée Romaine 2015. Smells Old World. There's some notions of tomato, seaweed, squid ink, and hoisin sauce too. Lacks the flesh and volume of previous vintages, but has very good balance, with solid flavor profile. Finishes with an anise note. Give this some air. Drink now through 2021. About $18.

-  September 12, 2017

Nasiakos Moscofilero 2015 (Mantinia). Pretty scents of white flowers (lillies?) and lemon peel that are fresh and vibrant. Inviting. Love the mouthwatering acitity that supports flavors of green pear, cucumber, and limes. Bright and tasty. Drink now. About $13.

-  September 11, 2017

Torbreck Shiraz Woodcutter's 2014 (Barossa Valley). Smoke and licorice are evident on the nose, then the palate is more about ripe blue/black fruit. Not heavy, with some perky lift, finishing with a cola note, and maybe some spices. Drink now through 2021. About $22.

Torbreck Semillon Woodcutter's 2014 (Barossa Valley). Yellow, with a green edge, this offers pleasing scents of white peaches, wax, and green melons. Very interesting. Great acidity and verve here, with medium weight, and showing flavors of lemon curd, orange rind, and apples. Finishes with a yellow cake batter note. Drink now through 2020. About $16.

-  September 8, 2017

Shafer Merlot 2014 (Napa Valley). Dark color, followed by deep scents of buttered, burnt toast, then blueberries, blackberries, smoke, and mocha. Powerful and rich without sacrificing poise. Shows savory polish to the dark fruit, with black tea and roasted hazelnuts on the long, intense finish. Serious Merlot. Over 15% alcohol, but is never hot. Great now, but would be even better with a touch of age, and will last for 15 years. About $60.

-  September 6, 2017

Licia Albarino 2015 (Rias Baixas). Tasty green pear, white peach, and citrus notes are vibrant and fun. Shows focus and clarity, finishing clean, with a nice crushed rock quality. Modest in scope, but is lively and versitile. Drink now. About $15.

-  September 5, 2017

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon Wight Vineyard 2010 (Napa Valley). Offers no shortage of crème de cassis aromas and flavors, plus charcoal, black cherry, plum, vanilla, and subtle smoke notes. Very full-bodied and rich, but with expert balance. It's the purity of fruit that really stands out here, like someone coddled every grape. Even more volume emerges with air, along with some graphite qualities. Wonderful. Ready now, but will last for at least 15 more years. About $100.

-  August 29, 2017

Capçanes Mas Donis Rosat 2016 (Montsant). Bright, electric pink color. Effusive notes of strawberries, plums, cherries, flowers, and citrus rinds that are fun and inviting. Not shy. Nearly juicy, but with supportive acidity and a really cool tart orange finish. Drink now. About $12.

-  August 23, 2017

Louis Roederer Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2009. Very precise and focused, this is a gorgeous effort, showing clarity to the scents of white flowers, crushed rocks, citrus peel, and a hint of ginger. Penetrating on the palate, but also super-elegant. There's some orange marmalade and green pear qualities backed by laser-like acidity, then some brioche notes. Shows intensity and uncommon craftsmanship. Absolutely outstanding. Worth every cent. About $80.        

-  August 18, 2017

Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Yamhill Cuvée 2014 (Willamette Valley). Fairly rich color, with purity on the nose, having notions of cherry, roasted chestnuts, and hints of tobacco and plums. Expressive in the mouth, with a beautiful, lithe texture and generosity of fruit. Stays elegant and focused, with a slight licorice quality on the finish. Well-made, and shows attention to detail. Drink now through 2023. About $50.

-  August 13, 2017

Domaine Dupeuble Beaujolais Blanc 2016. Flat out fun to drink! Notions of lime zest, green pear, and tangerine, with a cool fresh herb quality. Might be better than last year's version. Energetic. Never gets tiring. Drink now. About $16.

-  August 11, 2017

Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs 2012 (North Coast). Absolutely stunning. Pure straw color, with an energetic bead, then scents of ripe grapefruit, lemon curd, very active bread dough, spices, and shortbread cookie. Medium-bodied and very crisp, but with tons of citrus and apple fruit, then a hint of ginger. The finish just sails on and on with precision and generosity. Wonderful. Drink now through 2013. About $35.

-  August 9, 2017

Felsina Castello di Farnetella Lucilla 2015 (Toscana). There's freshness to the black fruit, licorice, and savory grilled herb notes. Very approachable, but not simple, with lingering black cherry and menthol qualities. Great with food, and a nice value. Made from mostly Sangiovese, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through 2021.

-  August 7, 2017

Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas Blanc 2015 (Paso Robles). A Rhone-styled white blend of 56% Grenache Blanc, 23% Viognier, 12% Roussanne, and 9% Marsanne, this offers plenty of honeysuckle, lime zest, white flowers, green melon, and white mushroom scents. Medium-bodied and energetic, there's verve to the tangerine flavors, finishing uplifting and with real intensity. Great with food. Drink now through 2022. About $24.

-  August 4, 2017

Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2006. A hint of brick color. Complex scents of freshly brewed coffee, cherries, tobacco, tar, and pine needles. Shows a bit of age, but is not at all tired, with sticky tannins and plenty of intensity and focus. Give this lots of air for the notes of fresh red roses to appear. Great now, but will last for another 8 years or so. About $45.

-  August 1, 2017

Chateau Pesquie Rosé Terrasses 2016 (Ventoux). Made from 50% Cinsault, 40% Grenache, and 10% Syrah, this is peach colored, with notions of fresh flowers, cherries, and oranges. A bit more juicy than most vintages, but maintains its composure with solid acidity and a pleasant citrus pith note on the moderate finish. Drink now. About $14.

-  July 30, 2017

Domaine Montrose Rosé 2016 (Pays d'Oc). Offers scents and flavors of peaches, strawberries, and lemon peel, with a bright, easily enjoyable character that is also great with food. Citrus and berry notes are vibrant on the moderate finish. Very pleasing and budget friendly. Drink now. About $12.

-  July 24, 2017

Domaine des Annibals Rosé 2016 (Var). Pale color, with and herbal nose that also includes hints of raspberries. Lots of berry and melon flavors, with a nicely balanced bitter citrus rind finsih. Vibrant and fresh, this is not a wine for contemplation and we wish it was a few dollars less, but is tasty and works well with your summer dining table. Made from 70% Cinsault, 10% Syrah, 10% Grenache, 5% Ugni Blanc, and 5% Rolle. Drink now. About $17.

-  July 21, 2017

Mitolo Shiraz G.A.M. 2005 (McLaren Vale). Opaque, intense purple with a hint of brown color, showing scents of leather, tons of black fruits, vanilla, and coffee. Super dense and rich, with moderate tannin and acidity. Very full-bodied and having no shortage of fruit and oak notes. Anise seed on the long, long finish. Outstanding. Mature now, but will hold for another 5 years. About $55.

-  July 19, 2017

Hartley Ostini Pinot Noir Hitching Post 2014 (Santa Maria Valley). Garnet color, with scents of roasted herbs, plums, cherries, and mocha. Some caramel notes on the palate, plus spices, chocolate, and red fruit. Nicely balanced acidity and structure develops during the finish, where a hint of cola emerges. Try with roasted veggies. Drink now through 2022. About $25.

-  July 18, 2017

Fossil Point Rosé 2016 (Central Coast). Made from 62% Grenache and 38% Syrah, this is made in a ripe, almost juicy style, but stays honest with enough acidity citrus notes. Mostly though, this is about cherries, raspberries, and peach notes. Rich enough to pair with roasted chicken, but light enough for raw veggies. Drink now. About $12.

-  July 14, 2017

Ruinart Champagne Brut Rosé Non-Vintage. Striking color, like that of a nectarine, then the nose is like strawberries, kiwi, and white peaches. Relatively rich, with plenty of red fruits, but also some minerality and freshness. Not at all shy. Bread dough and a creamy note on the long, detailed finish. Impressive. Drink now. About $75.

-  July 12, 2017

Domaine Lafage Tessellae Carignan Vieilles Vignes 2013 (Côtes Catalanes). Exhibits an intense, heady nose of raging campfire, plus grilled meat, dried herbs, and plums. Impressive and dense, with a mouthcoating, extracted presence. The blue/black fruits are paired with smoke notes that are lasting and pure. Amazing for the price. Drink now through 2021. About $14.

-  July 10, 2017

Pieropan Soave Classico 2015. A hint of rubber glove on the nose, but otherwise this is a very elegant, precise, and focused wine, with notions of lemon zest, crushed limestone, and green pear. Almost some tropical fruit on the vibrant finish. This producer is the real deal in Soave, and always a sure bet. Drink now. About $18.

-  July 9, 2017

Jillian Louise Rosé 2016 (Cotes de Provence). Sporting a cantelope color, this strawberry scented value is an easy, fun summer sipper. Exhurberant on the palate, with crushed raspberry notes, having bright acidity and some minerality on the finish. Not very complex, but shows balance and verve. A hint of pleasant bitterness on the finish. Drink now. About $11.

-  July 7, 2017

Schramsberg Brut Blanc de Noirs 2012 (North Coast). Offers scents of honey, white peaches, flowers and hints of apple. Really beautiful in the mouth, with fine textured bubbles and mouthfeel, showing notions of white grapes, lemons, and pears. Elegant. Finishes with a salty sea air quality, then some raspberries. Made from 88% Pinot Noir and 12% Chardonnay, this is a perennial winner from an outstanding producer. Drink now through 2021. About $33.

-  July 3, 2017

Cellers Unio Llicorella Classic 2012 (Priorat). Here at davidjohnhansen.com, we adore Priorat. So it's an especially good day when come across a real value for this appellation, like this solidly built one. Classic slate/crushed rock notes on the nose, plus licorice, black cherry, and a hint of smoke. Medium to full-bodied, with some savory herb/orange peel/medicine qualities that conjure memories of Fernet Branca, but it's paired with solid fruit and good length. Made from 70% Grenache, 15% Carignon, 154% Merlot. Drink now through 2022. About $25.

-  June 26, 2017

Justin Sauvignon Blanc 2016 (Central Coast). Very focused, on the white grapefruit scale of things, with lemon and white peach notes. Plenty of acidity and a hint of fresh grass. Nicely done. Eat this with some clams. Drink now. About $16.

-  June 24, 2017

Jacquart Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne 2006. Golden straw colored. Impressive nose that shouts reserved lemon, honey, and apricot. Wow. Beautiful, like strawberries plus tropical fruit, with intensity to the mid-palate and a long finish. Orange marmalade notes appear with air, then some brioche qualites. Really great density of flavor here. Drink within 3-4 years. About $60.

-  June 23, 2017

Moët & Chandon Brut Rosé Champagne Grand Vintage 2006. Copper/salmon in color, with raspberry aromatics that also hint at yeasty bread. Stunning in the mouth, reminiscent of orange rind, tangerines, raspberries, and chalky minerality. Shows gorgerous depth and richness, but is also focused and elegant all at once. Long and intense, with an almond pastry note, then more minerality. Really fantastic. Great now but will last for at least another 6 years. About $80.

-  June 21, 2017

Isaac Fernadez Selección Garnacha Acentor 2014 (Calatayud). Very cherry nose, then licorice on the attack, plus more cherries, followed by smoke and coffee notes. Modest in scope, but shows some definition and focus, with lively acidity. Drink now through 2020. About $15.

-  June 13, 2017

Christian Moreau Chablis Vaillon 2014. Like biting into a farm fresh green apple that's nearly searing in acidity and fresh, but also has lots of fruit and intensity to hold it together. There's also a saline, crushed shell component to this that screams Chablis, plus some fresh herb and white peach notes. Racy and great as an apertif. Drink now through 2020. About $45.

-  June 8, 2017

Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche Brunate 1997. A sublime example of a 20 year old Barolo. Brick red in color, with perfumed aromatics suggestive of red cherries, tobacco, and lavender. Lots of personality in the mouth, with fantastic intensity and verve. Mocha notes, plus beef blood and licorice flavors that are vibrant and harmonious. Fine-grained tannins support a captivating texture. Long, long finish. Gorgeous wine that's worth the wait. Fully mature, but will hold for another 5 years. About $75.

-  June 8, 2017

Château Doisy Daëne Bordeaux Blanc Sec 2015. From a producer known for their sweet dessert wines of Barsac, comes this very enjoyable, dry white Bordeaux. A hint of lanolin on the nose, but mostly lychee, orange peel, white peaches, and ripe pears. Vibrant and expressive, showing precision to the voluminous fruit, wax, and grass notes. Reminiscent of pineapple, green guava, and pears, with a fresh, lasting finish. Pretty cool stuff. 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2022. This is a steal at only $22.

-  June 6, 2017

Bodegas Ordoñez Triton 2015 (Toro). From old vine 100% Tinta de Toro grapes come this amazing value of a wine. Penetrating aromas of blackberry, incense, smoke, graphite, and a hint of blueberry. Extracted and dense, with fine tannins and a fabulous mid-palate. Expert balance of fruit and acidity. Long and intense, and even better than the 2014. Drink now through 2024. About $19.

-  June 2, 2017

Vicente Gandia Rioja Reserva Raiza 2012. Complex nose, suggesting smoke, dark leather, and cherries, with a hint of mocha and caramel. Medium-bodied, with lively acidity, balanced by solid depth and tannin. A dark profile that's reminiscent of tobacco and licorice. Would be great with a steak off the grill. Give this lots of air. Drink now through 2022. Only about $13.

-  May 31, 2017

Célestin-Blondeau Sancerre Cuvée des Moulins Bãles 2015. The nose is very clean and fresh, with notions of freshly cut grass and herbs. Deliciously zippy and inviting, but also on the lean side, having hints of green pear and lime zest. Finishes with some minerality, then some ripe fruit. Summer! Good value for this appellation. Drink now. About $16.

-  May 30, 2017

Domaine Sérol Eclat de granite 2014 (Côte Roannaise). Bright cherry aromas, plus notions of pipe tobacco and licorice are echoed in the mouth, with the fruit up front and lots of licorice on the finish. Vibrant. Great with salmon. 100% Gamay. Drink now through 2020. About $15.

-  May 25, 2017

Domaine Talmard Mâcon-Chardonnay 2015. Some burnt popcorn scents along with lemon and white peach. Has some surprising weight to it, though not at all heavy, showing lime zest, green melon, and citrus flavors paired with zippy acidity. Pleasant and great with food. Drink now. About $15.

-  May 23, 2017

Cedric Bouchard Champagne Roses de Jeanne Cote de Bechalin 2008. Made from 100% Pinot Noir, this is an extremely small production (only about 150 cases per year) from a 1.5 hectare plot. Features a very precise nose of white flowers, honey, and fresh bread dough. Receiving no dosage, this is crisp and intense, with focused minerality and verve to go with the red berry and red apple notes, finishing long, with more of that crushed limestone. Very elegant. Fantastic now, but will last for a few more years. Disgorged in 2015. About $85.

-  May 22, 2017

Bodegas Breca Breca 2013 (Calatayud). Made from 100% old vine Garnacha, this has plenty of smoke on the nose, plus black plums and crushed stone. Ripe black cherries in the mouth, relatively smooth in texture, with plenty of fruit and a black pepper/briary quality. Lots of licorice and chocolate notes on the finish. Excellent value. Drink now through 2022. About $16.

-  May 21, 2017

Chateau de L'Enclos Blanc 2015 (Entre-Deux-Mers). An herbal/grassy style, like parsley or thyme, then some lime zest. Lean, with bright acidity, but opens to some orange blossom notes with air and an interesting saline quality. Drink now. About $14.

-  May 17, 2017

Can Blau Blau 2014 (Montsant). For a taste of Priorat without the pricetag, try this 50% Mazuelo, 25% Syrah, and 25% Garnacha blend from neighboring Montsant. Lots of smoke on the nose, then crushed rock, licorice, black cherry, and coffee flavors, with some mild structure. Great price for this quality. Drink now through 2021. About $12.

-  May 16, 2017

Villa Des Anges Rosé 2016 (Pays D'Oc). With vibrant watermelon, raspberry, strawberry, and citrus notes, this is fun, zippy, and easygoing. Not much of a finish, but it's meant for hot summer days and uncomplicated meals. Drink now. About $10.

-  May 15, 2017

Paolo Scavino Barbera D'Alba 2015. Really fun and interesting nose of smoke, lavender, and plums, this vintage is ripe and harmonious, with zesty acidity and verve. Plump and inviting cherry flavors on an an easy, approachable frame. Drink now through 2021. About $20.

-  May 14, 2017

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (Knights Valley). This bottling is so consistent in style, and so consistent year to year that it's hard to pick favorites among the 2010, 2012, 2013, and 2014 vintages. Classic cassis, tobacco, black cherry, and mocha notes. Structured, but ends with plenty of ripe fruit. Long and enjoyable. Drink now through 2028. About $25.

-  May 11, 2017

Auvigue Mâcon Villages 2015. Notions of green apples, celery, lemon curd, and white peaches, with solid acidity. Light and easy, but don't serve this too cold, because it does develop into something more. Nicely herbal finish, and great with food. Drink now. About $15.

-  May 9, 2017

Domaine Franck Millet Sancerre 2015. Very pretty scents of pineapple, hay, dust, flowers, lemon, and sage. Very Sancerre and unmistakably Sauvignon Blanc in profile, with a flinty, grassy edge to the white peach, ripe lemon, and saline qualities. Mouthwatering and delicious. Drink now through 2019. About $19.

Celler Cal Pla Porrera Black Slate 2014 (Priorat). The Grenache component really stands out here, with lots of very ripe fruit (black cherries, raspberries, cranberries), but there's also notes of licorice and caraway seeds. Seems darker and more brooding compared to the 2013, but similarly has excellent balance, full-body, and ripe tanninc structure. Really wonderful, especially for the price. Drink now through 2022. About $23.

-  May 5, 2017

Clos Saint Jean Chateauneuf du Pape 2007. Effusive, powerful nose of cherry liqueur, tomato paste, seaweed, licorice, and fresh coffee. Rich with smokey bacon notes, plus blueberry on the mid-palate, then licorice, iodine, and iron on the finish. Very intense and saturated, this is not subtle. Fantatic wine. Great now, but will last for at least another 8 years. About $50.

-  May 3, 2017

Anselmi San Vincenzo 2015 (Veneto). A hint of something green on the nose (parsley?), plus melon, apples, cottage cheese, and lemon peel. Medium-bodied and nicely balanced, with a wealth of fruit, but honest acidity. Easy to like. Made from 80% Garganega, 10% Chardonnay, and 10% Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2019. About $16.

-  May 2, 2017

Domaine le Clos des Lumieres Rosé 2016 (Côtes du Rhône). Juicy, fresh and fun, this is an easy pairing with anything from a salad to grilled salmon, showing raspberry and orange peel notes, paired with supportive acidity. Zippy finish keeps you coming back for more. Made from 40% Cinsault, 30% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre. Drink now. About $11.

-  April 28, 2017

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2007 (Napa Valley). Opaque purple, and coming from Beringer's best vineyard holdings is another fantastic example, showing beautiful aromas of pure cassis, roasting coffee beans, dark plums, and hints of tobacco. Starts off more elegant, then finishes with power and intensity, with notions of graphite, ripe bell pepper, mint, and mocha to go with the fruit. Not quite as plush as some years, but is long and detailed. Always an amazing wine. Spends 22 months in French oak. Wonderful now, but will certainly last for 15 more years. About $150.

-  April 27, 2017

Juan Gil Rosé Honoro Vera 2016 (Jumilla). Very crisp and made in a food friendly style, this is energetic and fun, with watermelon and raspberry notes. Juicy finish. Made from Tempranillo and Syrah. Drink now. About $10.

-  April 22, 2017

Telmo Rodriquez Basa 2015 (Rueda). Extremely fresh and inviting, this is a white that's itching for the summer. Notes of lemon peel, parsley, and green pear on a crisp, mouthwatering frame. Made from 90% Verdejo and 10% Viura. Drink now. About $11.

-  April 21, 2017

Lisini Brunello di Montalcino 2011. Fairly dark in color, with aromatics reminiscent of cinnamon toast, tart cherries, dust, medicine cabinet, and black licorice. In the mouth, this is generous and hefty, showing expert balance of fruit and savory notes, with more of that medicinal note, plus freshly brewed coffee and black pepper on the solid finish. Lots of air really brings the volume up. Great now, probably better in a few years, and will last for 10. About $60.

-  April 20, 2017

La Spinetta Il Rosé Di Casanova 2016 (Toscana). Made from half Sangiovese and half Prugnolo Gentile, this is fairly pale in color, with a dusty nose. The palate, however is generous and lively, with ripe strawberry, raspberry, and citrus notes, paired with zippy acidity. Bittermelon and fresh herbs on the finish. Drink now. About $16.

-  April 18, 2017

Juvé & Camps Cava Reserva Essential Non-Vintage. Made from 100% Xarello, this has a shy nose, hinting at almonds, bread dough, and honey, but has a tasty, more welcoming palate of white grapefruit and lemond rind. Great with a salad. Drink now. About $15.

-  April 17, 2017

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 (Napa Valley). Awesome cassis purity here, with hints of eucalyptus, plums and coffee scents. Focused and intense, full-bodied, and flat out delicious, with some toasty spice notes to go with the wealth of black fruit and vanilla. Wonderful presence and plush texture. A beauty. Drink now through 2032. About $55.

-  April 14, 2017

Charles Ellner Champagne Brut Carte Blanche Non-Vintage. A hint of butterscotch on the nose, then red apples and touch of dark spice (or white pepper?). Shows some power and heft in the mouth, with a broad, golden mid-palate that's reminicient of baked apple pie, orange marmalade, and corriander. A rich coffee note on the finish. Really interesting. Drink now. About $33.

-  April 4, 2017

Bodegas Breca Rosé Garnacha de Fuego 2016 (Aragon). A hint of rubber glove, but this is mostly about the delicious strawberry notes. Easygoing, fresh, and zippy, with some citrus qualities to round it out. You could drink this with just about anything. Nice purity. Drink now. About $9.

-  March 30 ,2017

Domaine Carneros Brut 2010 (Carneros). There's a hint of butterscotch on the nose, but also lemon curd, tangerine, and saltine cracker. Really gorgeous, almost rich, satiny texture allied with fantastic acidity that supports the wealth of fruit (honeyed, candied citrus). Ends very long, with a touch of spice, like white pepper, and some whipped cream notes. Kind of stunning. This vintage is mature, so drink soon. About $25.

-  March 29, 2017

Paul Buisse Touraine 2015. A touch of rubber glove initially, but then the gooseberry, white grapefruit, and freshly mown lawn notes appear. Very zippy, this 100% Sauvignon Blanc is inviting and vibrant. Nice minerality on the finish. Demands shellfish. Drinnk now. About $11.

-  March 28, 2017

Bodegas Solagüen Rioja La Perla White 2015. Nicely done, with notions of white peach, lemon peel, and corriander. Welcome brisk acidity and an open texture, finishing with energy. Very food friendly and easygoing. Made from 92% Viura and 8% Malvasia. Drink now. About $12.

-  March 27, 2017

Damilano Barolo Lecinquevigne 2015. Cigar box scents initially, then hints of tart cherry and road tar. Medium-bodied and fresh, with very good focus and length. Some leather notes to go with the fruit. Solid. Drink now through 2023. About $40.

-  March 24 2017

Ridge Geyserville 2009 (Sonoma County). Wonderful scents of plums, licorice, dark spices, and hints of vanilla extract. Totally harmonious, with amazing presence and detail. Medium-bodied, intense and focused, with a very long finish that offers lingering blue/black fruit and mocha notes. Wow. Why we love Ridge. Made from 74% Zinfandel, 17% Carignane, 6% Petite Sirah, 2% Alicante Bouchet, and 1% Mataro. Drink now through 2023. About $36.

-  March 23, 2017

Quinta do Casal Monteiro Branco 2015 (Tejo). Made from half Arinto and half Fernão Pires, this is very clear in the glass, with scents of tart pineapple and green apples. Very pleasant citrus notes in the mouth, but also minerality and verve. Tangerines and green mango on the finish. Great easygoing food wine. Drink now. About $10.

-  March 21, 2017

Domaine Houchart Rosé 2016 (Côtes de Provence). Very saturated light pink in color, this year's version offers a pleasant balance of citrus rind, watermelon, red berry, and dusty oregano scents. Not quite as overtly fruity as last year, but still with lots of raspberry/cherry notes, ending with a savory quality. Solid acidity. Drink now. About $13.

-  March 17, 2017

Moutard Champagne Brut Grand Cuvée Non-Vintage. Light, pleasurable lemon peel, table water cracker, and clementine scents, then bracing acidity in the mouth, having flavors suggestive of citrus and green pear. A supple style with immediate appeal. Drink now. About $30.

-  March 15, 2017

Castello di Farnetella Chianti Colli Senesi 2012. Give this lots of air for the initial scents to burn off, then it's all about macerated cherries, black plums, and dark tobacco. Medium-bodied and very Sangiovese, pairing really well with food. A tasty coffee note on the energetic finish. About $18.

-  March 14, 2017

Kim Crawford Fizz Small Parcels 2011 (Marlborough). This bottle fermented blend of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay is bright and expressive, showing notions of peppermint, lemons, green apples, and blanced almonds. Very zippy and dry. A nice hint of honey and sea salt on the finish. Great as an apertif. Drink now. About $30.

-  March 13, 2017

Clos Les Lunelles 2005 (Côtes de Castillon). Very perfumed, with scents of roses, lavender, cherries, and plums. Fantastic texture and weight, having an interesting streak of iron/chalk to match the dark fruit and licorice flavors. Extracted, dense, and powerful. Really great now, but will certainly last for another 8+ years. About $55.

-  March 10, 2017

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino 2007. Very impressive nose of cigarette smoke, shitake mushrooms, black soil, and oregano, but it's the palate that wows you, with its coffee/chocolate qualities and superb balance. Long, long savory finish that would go well with a rich steak. Fantastic and mature at 10 years old, but still has life left to it, so drink now or hang on for at least another 5 years. About $55.

-  March 8, 2017

Buitenverwachting Sauvignon Blanc Beyond 2016 (Western Cape). A hint of celery and cottage cheese on the nose, but the palate is fun, grassy, and vibrant. Turns to green pear and tangerine, staying alive and fresh. Tasty. Makes us wish the summer would arrive. Drink now. About $11.

-  March 7, 2017

Landhaus Mayer Grüner Veltiner 2015 (Lower Austria). Love the clear, precise lemon scents and flavors, but what's more interesting are the crushed rock notes. Striking minerality pairs with green apple flavors and hints of tropical fruit toward the finish. Very friendly with food. Crunchy acidity. Drink now. About $15.

-  March 6, 2017

Bodegas LAN Rioja Riserva 2010. There's a dusty edge to the wild berry scents, with the palate being very approachable, showing flavors of black licorice, red fruits, leather and dark mushrooms. Hearty and earthy, without being dirty or muddled. Some blueberry notes emerge with air. Drink now through 2012. About $18.

-  March 3, 2017

Louis de Sacy Champagne Brut Originel Non-Vintage. Alomost golden in color, with complex scents of bread dough, honey, red berries, red apples, and mandarin orange. Fantastic definition, body, and length. Almost rich, with intriguing toffee/caramel notes and a hint of spice and lemongrass on the finish. Striking, especially for the price. Drink now. About $32.

-  March 2, 2017

Georges Duboeuf Morgon Jean-Ernest Descombes 2015. Fruity nose, like strawberries and blueberries, but there's also a notion of cola and baby powder. Give this some air, because this is dark and initially not open, but it later reveals notions of tobacco, graphite, tar, and lots of crushed granite. Show some power and intensity. Drink now through 2022. About $17.

-  March 1, 2017

Gérard Bertrand Gris Blanc 2016 (Pay d'Oc). Very pale for a rosé -- it just hints at a peach color. Pretty nose of citrus peel, strawberries, and fresh herbs. Dry, with a touch of orange marmalade to go with the berry flavors. Excellent acidity and verve. Drink now. About $12.

-  February 27, 2017

Catena Zapata Cabernet Sauvignon Catena Alta Historic Rows 2012 (Mendoza). A hint of menthol on the nose, with the palate being concentrated, extracted, and focused. There's a nice spiciness to it, plus blackberries, plums, orange rind, smoke, and bitter chocolate. Nice proportions. Refined and classy. Drink now through 2022. About $45.

-  February 20, 2017

R Wines Shiraz CR Chris Ringland 2006 (Barossa Valley). Last reviewed in August 2008, this outstanding Shiraz from Ebenezer fruit offers an effusive nose of crushed blueberries and blackberries, plus tar and vanilla. A very rich and saturated wine, this is not delicate, with a great coffee note to go with the dark fruit flavors, ending with a black pepper quality. Still very impressive and long, despite being 11 years old, and for originally costing about $20. Drink now through 2021.

-  February 17, 2017

Roederer Estate Brut L'Ermitage 2007 (Anderson Valley). We're huge fans of the non-vintage bottling by Roederer Estate, so having the vintage version is a real treat. Smelling of honey, butterscotch, clementines, and baked apples, this is similar to the regular blend, but with more volume and length. Some spicy qualities in the mouth, plus wheat biscuit and more red apples. Stays elegant and precise. Wonderful. Drink now through 2021. About $40.

-  February 16, 2017

Esporão White Reserva 2014 (Alentejo). Frankly yellow in color, with scents of petroleum, rubber glove, and peaches. More peaches on the attack, then turning to creamsicle and a saline finish. Good body and presence. Really interesting, and geat with a variety of food. Made from 30% Antao Vaz, 30% Arinto, 30% Roupeiro, and 10% Semillon. Drink within a year or so. About $15.

-  February 15, 2017

Bodegas Naia Las Brisas 2015 (Rueda). Made from 50% Verdejo, 30% Viura, 20% Sauvignon Blanc, this is bright, with lots of mineral and citrus notes on the nose. Not very complex, but is very refreshing, with flavors of lemons, fresh herbs, and peaches. Begs for the summer. Drink now. About $11.

-  February 3, 2017

G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe 2010. Some dark, earthy scents, like twigs or a forest in fall, plus shitake mushrooms. This shows great definition and delicious acidity, as well as elegance in the mouth, but is also structured and powerful, with classically Barolo flavors of tar, roses, and black cherries/plums. Some interesting licorice notes on the finish. Needs some time, so try in two years. About $45.

-  February 1, 2017

Gallo Cabernet Sauvignon Signature Series 2013 (Napa Valley). Readers who associate Gallo wines with inexpensive everyday wines need to change their mindset. We're fans of the Signature Series Pinot Noir, so it's great to see their Cabernet following along this path. Strong scents of cedar initially, then air reveals violets, blue and black fruit, plus a hint of dill. Shows power and tannic muscle, but with depth of plump fruit. Some ink, licorice, and charcoal notes. Gains texture and nuance, so keep swirling. 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, plus a bit of Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah. Wait a year for this to integrate, or decant. About $40.

-  January 30, 2017

William Fevre Chablis Champs Royaux 2014. Clear and precise, with tons of river rock/limestone notes. Delivers delicious acidity and verve supporting green apple and lime flavors. Very inviting, and fantastic with shellfish. Drink now. About $20.

-  January 29, 2017

Mas d'en Gil Bellmunt 2011 (Priorat). Composed of 60% Garnacha, 20% Carinena, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, this represents a great value for this appellation, offering lots of smoke and crushed rock scents, with a touch of something medicinal. Robust in the mouth, showing more of those rocks, plus black cherries, iodine, and black licorie. Finishes with some power as well as solid acidity. Give this lots of air for the density to emerge. Drink now through 2022. About $22.

-  January 27, 2017

Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia 2011. This year's single vineyard Rancia is very nearly as good as the 2010 (which was on our top 10 list of 2016), exhibiting effusive aromas of licorice, rose petals, smoke, and cherries. This is the real deal, showing excellent intensity on the mid-palate, as well as structured dark fruit and acidity. Could use some time, as right now it's a little tight and not as integrated as it could be. Decant if you want it now, otherwise drink in a few years. About $45.

-  January 25, 2017

Don Camillo Rosso Salento Don Giovanni 2014. Made from Primitivo Salento, Negramaro, and Malvasia, this offers intriguing scents of cantaloupe, procuitto, and cloves. Dark in color and relatively soft in the mouth, with flavors reminiscent of smoke, juicy plums, and black current. Not much in the way of tannins, but there's supportive acidity to keep the fruit in check. Drink now. About $12.

-  January 24, 2017

Teo Costa Roero Arneis Lamiana 2015. Hard to not enjoy the lovely river rock scents, then there's a hint of white peach. Clean, bright, and mouthwatering, while showing excellent purity and minerality. With time, subtle fresh herb and citrus notes emerge. Excellent with food. Drink now. About $18.

-  January 23, 2017

Patrick Piuze Brut Val de Mer Non-Vintage. This bubbly is 100% Chardonnay from vineyards near Chablis, undergoes bottle fermentation, and receives no dosage. Has a hint of butterscotch/caramel on the nose, but is very crisp on the palate, with good mouthfeel surrouding the chalky minerality and lemon peel notes. On the austere side. Drink now. About $20.

-  January 22, 2017

Bodegas El Nido Clio 2013 (Jumilla). Made from mostly Monastrell plus Cabernet Sauvignon, this offers deep, penetrating scents of charcoal, pen ink, iodine, very black fruit, and camp smoke. Both powerful and plush in the mouth, very saturated, and extremely dense. Makes you pay attention to it, with some creamy spice notes that complement the dark friut. Long. Wish we had another bottle of this. 16% alcohol. Great now, and will last for another 15 years. About $45.

-  January 20, 2017

Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs 2011 (North Coast). Though not as powerful as the 2012 versions we've tried, this nonetheless has penty to offer, with generous scents of honey, almond cookie, and a hint of red fruit. Elegant in the mouth, where the flavors of red apples and lemon are lithe, and the acidity refreshing. Better as an apertif. Drink within a year or so. About $35.

-  January 19, 2017

Cassa Branco 2015 (Douro). Love the rocky crushed slate quality to this, plus lemon peel and tangerine. Fresh and mouthwatering, finishing with a green herb note. Not very complex, but it's also very easy on the wallet. Made from 40% Rabigato, 40% Viosinho, and 20% Codega do Larinho. Drink now. About $10.

-  January 18, 2017

Caymus Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (Napa Valley). Sporting an opaque inky purple/black color, this is yet another fantastic vintage of this, having deep scents of cassis, black plums, smoke, and licorice, but still shows some freshness. Extremely rich and full, totally mouthcoating and dense. Tons of ripe black fruit, but also bacon and toasted oak notes. Kind of spectacular if you enjoy this type of full-throttle Napa Cab. We wonder what the Special Selection will be like. Tasted from their rather unusual 1 liter bottle. Approachable now, but will last for at least 15 years. About $70.

-  January 14, 2017

Capçanes Mas Donis Old Vines 2014 (Montsant). Made from 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah, this is a bit more funky on the nose compared to previous versions, with a wet wool note to go with the iodine and smoke. Needs aeration to reveal the fleshy dark fruit, while staying balanced with a distinctive crushed rock note, plus fresh acidity. Tasty cherry and plum fruit, with a hint of lavender on the finish. Fantastic value. Drink now through 2021. About $11.

-  January 10, 2017

Alphonse Dolly Sauvignon Blanc Les Doigts d'Or de Dolly 2015 (Vin de France). Super-clean, fresh and inviting, showing notes of grass, white grapefruit, lemons, limestone, and a hint of passionfruit. Not a complex wine, but is really enjoyable and very food friendly, with a pleasant texture. Drink now. About $15.

-  January 9, 2017

Paolo Scavino Barolo Bricco Ambrigio 2009. Classically Barolo, with a nose of new leather, mushrooms, dark soil, black pepper, and something medicinal. Straightforward attack, then an arresting pop of flavor on the sides as it travels through the mouth. Great presence, with a rusty quality on the finish. Plenty of tannin, but is still approachable with its depth of cherry fruit. Really enjoyable now, but better to wait a couple of years. About $60.

-  January 7, 2017

Bodegas Ordoñez Triton 2014 (Toro). Dusty initially, with shitake mushroom and bramble notes, then wild berries. This is a powerful, dense wine and a fantastic value, showing barbecue smoke, licorice and coffee flavors that develop into really wonderful crushed blueberry notes when given air. Be patient, the fruit is impressive if you give it time. Drink now through 2021. About $21.

-  January 6, 2017

Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Noir 2012 (Willamette Valley). Offers a focused nose of bright cherries, tobacco leaf, orange rind, and subtle spices. Maybe some freshly brewed coffee. Medium-bodied and fresh, with some cola and licorice notes on the zippy finish. Nicely done. A friendly style. Drink now through 2020. About $30.

-  January 5, 2017

Henri Bourgeois Pouilly Fumé La Porte de l'Abbaye 2015. Terriffic purity here, with a clean, inviting personality to the river rock, meyer lemon, pea shoot, and green pear notes. Very well-balanced, with a hint of lime and sea salt. Shows precision and elegance. Drink now. About $22.

-  January 3, 2017

Bodegas Olarra Rioja Reserva Cerro Añon 2010. A hint of cream on the nose, but mostly cherries, licorice, smoke, and dark earth. Mid-weight, with impressive density of flavor and acidity. Shows quality of fruit and focus. Made from 80% Tempranillo, and 20% of Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Graciano. Drink now 2023. About $20.

-  January 2, 2017

Saveurs du Temps Rosé 2015 (Costières de Nîmes). Made from 75% Grenache and 25% Syrah, this has a shy nose, but the palate is balanced, refreshing, and lithe. A delicate style, with notions of roses, citrus peel, raspberries, and fresh herbs. Modest in scope. Drink now. About $11.

-  December 31, 2016

At the end of each year at davidjohnhansen.com, we rank our favorite wine recommendations and decide on a top 10. This year's group features fine Champange, delicious Cabernets, and other gems from around the world.

#1 Moet & Chandon Champagne Brut Dom Perignon 2006.

#2 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2006 (Napa Valley).

#3 Mitolo Shiraz Savitar 2004 (McLaren Vale).

#4 Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon Wight Vineyard 2008 (Napa Valley).

#5 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia 2010.

#6 Schramsberg Brut Rosé 2012 (North Coast).

#7 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello 2008.

#8 Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2007 (Napa Valley).

#9 Orin Swift Machete 2014 (California).

#10 Celler Cal Pla Black Slate Porrera 2013 (Priorat).


Honorable mentions:

Kumeu River Chardonnay Hunting Hill 2012 (Auckland).

Stags' Leap Winery Petite Sirah 2012 (Napa Valley).

Numanthia-Termes Numanthia 2003 (Toro).

Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo 2009.

Heidsieck Monopole Champagne Brut Gold Top 2005.


-  December 22, 2016

Georges Vigouroux Rosé Gouleyant 2015 (Côtes du Lot). Made from Malbec, this is a salmon colored pretty wine of solid acidity and focus. Melon, dusty drawer, and fresh flowers on the nose, then raspberry and watermelon notes on the palate. Good value! About $12.

-  December 21, 2016

Masseria Setteporte Etna Bianco N'ettaro 2012. There's a chalky/dusty edge to this wine's nose, plus lime peel and a hint of cheese. On the palate, it's more like stone fruits, ripe pear, apples, and a touch butterscotch on the finish. Medium-bodied, dry, and an interesting change of pace. Made from 65% Carricante and 35% Catarratto. About $19. About $19.

-  December 14, 2016

Viña Cobos Cabernet Sauvignon Felino 2014 (Mendoza). Complex nose, suggesting fresh coffee grounds, charcoal, cherries, wild berries, and smoke. Really great texture, with plenty of fruit (mostly black cherry) to go with the vanilla oak notes. Generous and nicely done. And a great value! Drink now through 2021. About $18.

-  December 13, 2016

Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé Non-Vintage. Beautiful color, reminiscent of peach and copper. Detailed and expressive nose, like red berries, stone fruits, and warm bread. Expert balance and elegant texture, having refined flavors of watermelon, blood orange, clementine, and red apples. Long finish, where the subtle spicy note emerges. About $80.

-  November 29, 2016

Guigal Châteauneuf du Pape 2009. This is totally at the right spot in its developent, with delicious fruit and acicity, like cherry liqueur and subtle tobacco, seaweed, blueberry, and cedar notes. More in an earlier drinking style, without serious tannin, but medium-bodied and harmoniously put together. Drink now through 2020. About $55.

-  November 28, 2016

Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2015 (Marlborough). Leaps out of the glass with concentrated gooseberry scents, plus white grapefruit, green pear, and passion fruit. Balanced, but certainly on the zippy side, with freshness and verve to the grassy/herbal notes. Really enjoyable lime zest on the finish. Drink now. About $18.

-  November 27, 2016

Olivares Monastrell Altos de la Hoya 2013 (Jumilla). Dark, smokey, and medicinal nose, but also notions of black fruit and iodine. Full-bodied and dense in the mouth, featuring licorice flavors and an unforgiving quality that really improves with air. Try with a well charred steak. Drink now through 2021. About $14.

-  November 24, 2016

Ruinart Champagne Blanc de Blancs Non-Vintage. Pretty straw color, followed by a nose suggesting Camembert cheese, citrus, honey, and table water crackers. Lemon curd on the crisp, expansive palate, plus hints of fresh bread dough, white peach, and grapefruit. Really elegant and long, with some great minerality on the finish. Drink now. About $75.

-  November 23, 2016

Scharffenberger Brut Excellence Non-Vintage (Mendocino County). A serious bubbly for the price, one that's nearly rich in body, paired with lots of flavor, having notions of toasted almonds, red berries, whole grain bread, flowers, and orange rind. Excellent balance and volume, staying fresh through the long finish. If this said "Champagne" on the label, they could charge twice as much. Drink now. A steal at about $18.

-  November 21, 2016

Pira Barolo Marenca 2010. Classically Barolo, with scents of roses, tar, dark tobacco, pine forest, and hints of cherry. Structured and dense, with slightly chunky tannins. Medium-bodied and powerful, with a lasting impression of dark fruit and a touch of lavender. Great intensity that's drinkable now, but better in a few years, and will last another 10. About $70.

-  November 20, 2016

Quinta do Sobral Reserva 2013 (Dão). A touch rustic, but not distractingly so, with notions of cola, smoke, licorice, and plums. Shows real density and focus, with a lasting finish that offers a touch of iodine. Interesting stuff. About $17.

-  November 19, 2016 

Tiefenbrunner Pinot Bianco 2015 (Alto Adige). Love the vein of river rock qualities running through this, along with white peach, club soda, green pear, and subtle tangerine. Very crisp and food friendly. Let it warm up in the glass for the hint of tropical fruit to emerge, all the while keeping the minerality. Drink now. About $16.

-  November 17, 2016

Bodegas Vizcarra Ramos JC Vizcarra 2010 (Ribera del Duero). Checking in on the 2010 (last tasted in 2013), this is holding up extremely well, with fantastic richness, density, and presence. Notions of licorice, cherry liqueur, tobacco, dark spices, and mocha. A youngster, but totally accessable. Delicious. Drink now through 2026. About $26.

-  November 16, 2016

Ken Wright Pinot Noir 2013 (Willamette Valley). Garnet color, with complex aromas of tart cherries, green tobacco, freshly brewed coffee, hints of mushroom and forest floor. Excellent purity and energy here. Doesn't have outstanding depth, but is clearly well-made and precise. Good for early drinking. About $29.

-  November 7, 2016

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon Wight Vineyard 2008 (Napa Valley). Effusive aromatics that include cola (or is that Dr.Pepper?), plus tons of cassis, blackberry, vanilla, and charcoal. Very full-bodied, super-rich, but also precise and enormously enjoyable. The length is astounding, featuring gobs of blue and black fruit, coffee and licorice notes. Nearly 16% alcohol, but is neither overbearing or hot. Awesome right now, and will keep for at least another 10 years. We're really glad that we're on this winery's mailing list. About $70?

-  November 6, 2016

Gosset Champagne Brut Grande Resérve Non-Vintage. Not overwhelmingly complex, but solidly built, with notions of green apple, bread dough, lemons, and a hint of toffee. Finishes clean and focused, with very good overall balance and charm. Drink now. About $48.

-  November 3, 2016

Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon Jack London Vineyard 2013 (Sonoma Mountain). Black pepper, dark spices, leather, smoldering fire, iodine and hints of cassis on the nose. Masculine, with good density and an herbal bay leaf quality, plus menthol, black cherries, and cocoa powder. Needs lots of air for the fruit to come out. This is not an obvious, forward Cabernet. We wish they stayed with their distinctive bottle/label design, but that has nothing to do with the high-quality wine inside. Been drinking this vineyard since the early 90's, and history shows this needs time in the cellar to express itself, so hold for a couple of years before popping the cork, and drink through 2028. About $27.

-  November 1, 2016

Justin Monmousseau Touraine 2015. An excellent river rock/crushed limestone note is evident both through the nose and palate, plus lime peel and green apples. Tart and zesty, in a very appealing way, this would be fantastic aperitif. Drink now. About $13.

-  October 30, 2016

Westport Rivers Brut Blanc de Blancs 2001 (Massachusetts). Much better than thier rather ordinary RJR bottling, the Blanc de Blancs offers focused scents and flavors of honey, lemon peel, ginger, and hints of biscuit. With decent body and admirable freshness, it's a suprisingly good New England wine, which we rarely find. Drink now through 2019. About $44.

-  October 28, 2016

Teso La Monja Romanico 2012 (Toro). Effusive nose, reminiscent of crushed blueberries, cherries, smoke, and licorice. Deep and generous mid-palate, showing purity and focus, with fantastic fruit and presence for the price. Interestingly, it reminds me of Chateauneuf. Outstanding value. Made from Tinto de Toro. Drink now through 2021. About $16.

-  October 26, 2016

João Portugal Ramos Alvarinho 2015 (Vinho Verde). Scents like white peaches, oranges, fresh herbs, lemons, and something hinting at bubble gum (in a good way). Zesty, with great acidity and good intensity. Limes/lemons on the the vibrant, echoing finish. Cool stuff. Drink now. About $15.

-  October 23, 2016

Arona Sauvignon Blanc 2015 (Marlborough). Shows really good focus on the nose, with flavors/aromas of gooseberry, white grapefruit, and passion fruit, and lemongrass. Has all that you would expect out of this category, but also a bit more verve and palate impression. Mouthwatering finish. Great value. Drink now. About $11.

-  October 21, 2016

Jacquart Champagne Brut Mosaïque Non-Vintage. Offers generous scents of baked apples, butterscotch, orange rind, and hints of crushed nuts. More apples on the medium-bodied, robust palate, plus red berries. Some spicy graham cracker notes on the long finish. Not delicate, but stays bright and interesting. Drink now. About $38.

-  October 20, 2016

Senorio de Barahonda Carro 2014 (Yecla). Dark and brooding (the Monestrell sticks out), with notes of campfire smoke and tar, but also prune and medicine. Spicy finish. Hearty and a touch rustic, but a really great value. Composed of 50% Monestrell, 20% Syrah, 20% Merlot, and 10% Tempranillo. Drink now. About $10.

-  October 19, 2016

Paolo Scavino Sorriso 2015 (Langhe). Fresh, inviting and mouthwatering, with notions of white peach, fresh herbs, pears, lemon peel, and rambutan. No hint of oak. Really enjoyable, and really pretty. Made from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier. Drink now. About $17.

-  October 18, 2016

Zenato Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore Ripassa 2012. Intense and chocolatey nose, with dense espresso, plum, cigar smoke, licorice, and cinnamon candy notes. Focused, extracted palate, featuring cherry and mocha flavors across a full-bodied mouthfeel. Great acidity, with a spice-tinged finish. Really good. One of the better versions of this we've had. Drink now through 2020. About $22.

-  October 16, 2016

Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir CrossBarn 2013 (Sonoma Coast). Dark plum color, with scents of crushed cherries, lavender, cola, and a hint of smoke. Ripe and plump in the mouth, but not without energy, featuring a peppery spice finish and a touch of new leather, not unlike new Frye boots. Excellent freshness here. Drink now through 2020. About $33.

-  October 13, 2016

Rui Roboredo Madeira Branco Reserva 2015 (Beyra Interior). Made from 50% Síria and 50% Fonte Cal, this exhibits some rubber glove and Vaseline notes on the nose. Light citrus flavors, and a very clean profile in the mouth. Peach and grass notes show up with air. Drink now. About $10.

-  October 11, 2016

Triennes Rosé 2015 (Méditerranée). Made from mostly Cinsault, along with Grenache, Syrah and Merlot, this is exhuberant, with great acidity to support the cherries, flowers, citrus peel, raspberries, and subtle earth notes. Substantive, and holds your interest. Drink now. About $15.

-  October 10, 2016

Orin Swift Machete 2014 (California). Jumps out of the glass with scents of black licorice, black cherries, figs, and graphite. Super-rich, dense, and mouthcoating, with a real journey across the palate. Lots of ripe fruit (plums, cassis) that only gain intensity with a bit of air. Not subtle, but manages to stay honest, even at 15.7% alcohol. Made from Petite Sirah, Syrah & Grenache. Drink now through 2024. About $50.

-  October 5, 2016

Chartogne-Taillet Brut Champagne Cuvée Sainte Anne Non-Vintage. Golden color, with scents of honey, white flowers, hazelnuts, and graham crackers. A fairly rich style, tasting of almond biscotti, red berries, nutmeg and ginger. Mouthfilling texture, with fantastic balance and intensity. Very impressive. This version was disgorged in April 2008, so it's fully mature, but will last a few more years. About $45.

-  October 4, 2016

Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello 2008. Scents of roses, tar, cherries, mushrooms, and subtle spices. Has a sense of elegance to it, with focused fruit, but also a structured, long finish. Give this some air for the volume to show up, as well as the wonderful texture and density of flavor. Contemplative. Great now, but better in a few years, and will last past 2030. About $60.

-  September 29, 2016

d'Arenberg The Hermit Crab 2014 (McLaren Vale). Made from Viognier and Marsanne, this exhibits notions of evergreen, peach, pear, Vaseline, apples, and honey. Rich mouthfeel, with lots of ripe fruit and focused acidity. Finishes with good intensity and plenty of pleasure, at an easy price. Drink now through 2019. About $14.

-  September 27, 2016

Bodegas Triton Tempranillo EntreSuelos 2013 (Castilla Y Leon). Youthful and primary, with notions of dusty grapes, mocha, cherries, and fig. Toasty, fruity finish, with medium-body and lots of freshness. Not for contemplation, but at this price, that's fine. Drink now through 2019. About $11.

-  September 24, 2016

Podernuovo A Palazzone Argirio 2010 (Toscana). Very pleasing, effusive scents of blueberry, cola, smoke, freshly brewed coffee, and spices. Maybe a hint of bell pepper. Silky, open texture, with no sharpness from too much acidity, featuring plum and cedar flavors. Given air, more fruit comes out, and the texture gets even more refined. Very well done for this price point. Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2020. About $25.

-  September 20, 2016

Sarl Jean Merieau Touraine Les Hexagonales 2015. Very expressive without sacrificing minerality, this is succulent, with notions of ripe grapefruit, pear, gooseberry, and tangerine. Medium-bodied, with plenty of verve, representing a excellent value from the Loire. Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now. About $12.

-  September 19, 2016

Domaine de la Charbonnière Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2005. Love the iodine intensity to this, plus molasses, cherries, and smoke. Structured (as the vintage tends to be), as well as pure and focused. Solid licorice, mocha, and blueberry flavors, with really good length, and a more welcoming texture that comes with aeration. Drink now through 2023. About $55.

-  September 16, 2016

Cal Blanca 2012 (Toro). Lots of smoke on the nose, plus rich coffee, ink, and blueberry notes. Inky palate that's dark and intense, starting out masculine, but mellows with air, revealing a more nuanced profile. Good acidity and fine tannins. Great with grilled meat. Tempranillo. Drink now through 2021. About $19.

-  September 15, 2016

Calheiros Cruz Branco 2015 (Douro). Like white flowers and crushed rocks on the nose, but the palate is almost juicy, suggesting ripe oranges, peaches, and honeydew. Finishes with a passion fruit note, with good clarity and focus. Made from 40% Viosinho, 30% Rabigato, and 30% Gouveio, this is a tasty value. Drink now. About $13.

-  September 14, 2016

Domaine Dupeuble Beaujolais Blanc 2015. Reminiscent of lychee on the nose, plus peaches, green guava, and green grass. Pleasurable and energetic, with more tropical fruit notes on the palate. Finishes clean, with a green apple and almond note. Really enjoyable. About $16.

-  September 13, 2016

Pascal Jolivet Sancerre Rosé 2015. Beautiful color, as well as an impressive nose of raspberries, strawberries, and orange rind. Flat out delicious, this has energy, presence, and focused fruit. Vibrant watermelon notes, with expert balance, ending with a citrus peel quality. Impressive. Drink now. About $26.

-  Septemer 12, 2016

Viña Cobos Malbec Felino 2014 (Mendoza). Unfiltered. Youthful and grapey, with notions of smoke, boysenberry, freshly roasted coffee, blackberries, and prunes. Plump and exhuberant, staying fresh and almost fun, but maintains balance with both acidity and modest tannin. Really nice value. Drink now through 2020. About $18.

-  September 10, 2016

La Lecciaia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2007. Hints of amber color, with a complex nose of green tobacco, leather, herbs, violets, cherries, and coffee. Nice presence, medium-body, and excellent texture, finishing long. An elegant style, showing flavors of black olives and plums. Decent tannins, but is overall generous and pleasing. Drink now 2021. About $50.

-  September 9, 2016

Allegrini Palazzo delle Torre 2012 (Veronese). Some earthy shitake mushroom scents initially, but there's also hints of leather and cigar shop. Medium-bodied, with very good intensity to the licorice, dark fruit, and espresso flavors. Finishes fresh and moderately long. This is always an impressive value, year after year. Made from 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, and 5% Sangiovese. Drink now through 2020. About $20.

-  September 8, 2016

Magnum Carlos Lucas Tinto Pinha Ribeiro Santo 2014 (Dão). Complex scents of coffee, eraser, graphite, iodine, cedar, and crushed rocks. Tart attack, featuring cranberries, but moves to a meaty mid-palate, like beef blood and cherries and currants. Medium-bodied, with decent length. Really interesting, and kind of a bargain. Made from 35% Touriga Nacional, 35% Tinta Roriz, and 30% Alfrocheiro. Drink now through 2020. About $14.

-  September 7, 2016

Tenet Wines Syrah The Pundit 2014 (Columbia Valley). Perhaps better than last year's version, offering generous scents of black and blue fruits, smoke, and seaweed. Full-bodied, rich and focused as well, with concentrated cherry and blackberry fruit. This is very long and mouth-coating. Has the right balance to not become tiring. More smoke and then licorice notes on the finsih. Also contains co-fermented 6% Grenache, 4% Mourvèdre, and 2% Viognier. Drink now through 2021. About $24.

-  September 3, 2016

Champs de Provence Rosé 2015 (Côtes de Provence). Bright and energetic, with a noticible herbal streak running through the celery, watermelon, and raspberry notes. Dry, with lots of acidity, this would do well as an apertif. Drink now. About $17.

-  September 2, 2016

Aleanna Cabernet Franc El Enemigo 2011 (Mendoza). Aromas of fire pit are melded with ripe bell peppers, anise, coffee, and lavender. Full-bodied and focused, with black licorice notes to go with the dark fruit. With good structure, this needs a bit of air to reveal itself. Drink now through 2021. About $26.

-  August 23, 2016

Allegrini La Grola 2012 (Veronese). On the bright side, with plenty of acidity that uplifts a complex nose of shitake mushrooms, cola, wet earth, fall leaves, violets, and a hint of menthol. Medium-bodied and showing freshness to the black licorice flavors and candied apple finish. A very expressive journey in the mouth. Drink now through 2020. Drink now through 2020. About $25.

-  August 21, 2016

René Geoffroy Brut Champagne Expression Non-Vintage. Notions of butterscotch caramel on the nose, plus red berries and hay. Lots of flavor in the mouth, showing real volume and impressive focus, reminiscent red apples and whole wheat bread. Stays lively through the moderately long finish. An excellent example from Premier Cru vineyards. This bottle is fully mature (disgorged in July 2009), so drink now. About $50.

-  August 17, 2016

Hartley Ostini Pinot Noir Hitching Post 2014 (Santa Maria Valley). Pretty garnet color, with a nose of bright cherries, green tobacco, currants, and subtle spice. Coffee and red berries are featured on the palate. On the lighter side, with lots of acidity (but not sharp), ending with a licorice finish that's long, balanced, and thorough. Drink now through 2020. About $25.

-  August 16, 2016

Finca Allende Allende 2004 (Rioja). Aromatics reminiscent of cherries, blueberries, light oak, black licorice, and smoke. Almost bright acidity, with good fruit on the attack, and more licorice on the finish. Not a big mid-palate, but has excellent balance and medium body. Gains volume, detail, and complexity with air. Mature, but will last five more years. Tasted from magnum. About $50.

-  August 15, 2016

Clos de los Siete 2012 (Uco Valley). There's noticible use of oak here, but it isn't overpowering, with notions of vanilla, smoke, and toast, then briary dark berries, lavender, fig, and mocha. Shows some power, though a bit hot on the finish. Good value. Made from 57% Malbec, 18% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Syrah, and 2% Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2020. About $18.

-  August 14, 2016

Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup Rosé 2015 (Pic Saint Loup). Subtle nose, like raspberries, minerals and fresh herbs. Almost creamy in texture, with flavors of bubble gum and orange marmalade, with plenty of acidity and minerality. Finishes austere, in a good way. Made from 30% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, and 10% Cinsault. Drink now. About $15.

-  August 1, 2016

Bollinger Champagne Special Cuvée Non-Vintage. Small, pretty bubbles, then scents of honey, stone fruit, bread dough, and hints of raspberry. Rich, bold, and intense, but with a refined, mouth-filling texture and supportive acidity. Hazelnut, whole wheat bread, red fruit, and spicy ginger notes. Don't drink this too cold for maximum effect. Very impressive. In our experience, the non-vintage is ready to go, so drink now. About $65.

-  July 31, 2016

Lemos & van Zeller Tinto Quinta Vale D. Maria VVV 2013 (Douro). A bit rustic, but there's also lots of primary, youthful cherry fruit, plus anise, dark spices, green tobacco, and chocolate notes. Medium-bodied, fresh, and better with food that's got some richness to it. Finishes moderately long, and gains volume with air. This is the "3 valleys" bottling. Drink now through 2020. About $20.

-  July 22, 2016

Las Rocas de San Alejandro Garnacha Viñas Viejas 2012 (Calatayud). The old vine version by Las Rocas is similar to the regular bottling, but more dense, rich and bold, with plenty of dark cherry, mocha, and licorice flavors. Shows some heat, but overall retains most of its footing, finishing with blueberry, seaweed, and smoke notes. Drink now through 2019. About $23.

-  July 20, 2016

Château Grande Cassagne Rosé 2015 (Costières de Nîmes).  Some acetone notes on the nose, then cucumber and light raspberry. More like cherry and plum fruit on the palate, and even a little fleshy for a rosé. Ends with a delicious strawberry note and subtle spice. This is the best vintage of this we've had in a while. Drink now. About $11.

-  July 18, 2016

Adega Mãe Viosinho 2013 (Lisboa). Very herbal, like crushed up parsley and cilantro, plus river rock and hints of fennel. Ends with a lemon peel note. Not complex, but very crisp and clean, pairing well with fresh, white fishes. Drink now. About $13.

-  July 17, 2016

Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2007 (Napa Valley). Reminiscent of eucalyptus, cassis, smoke, black cherries, and black pepper, this is just plain fantastic. Very, very impressive balance. Weighs in at 15% alcohol, but you would never guess it, offering medium to full-body and extracted, dense flavors. Black licorice on the intense, long finish. Hasn't yet hit its peak, but wonderful now, and will last for another 10 years. About $70.

-  July 16, 2016

Charles Smith Rosé Vino 2015 (Washington). Made from 100% Sangiovese. Showing excellent purity, this is fun and energetic, with modest peach, cherry, and citrus notes. Finishes dry and almost chalky. Cool stuff. Drink now. About $10.

-  July 14, 2016

Laurent-Perrier Champagne Brut Rosé Non-Vintage. Strikingly rich color for a rosé, with a detailed nose of white mushrooms, raspberries, orange peel, and graham cracker. Fantastic presence in the mouth, showing real focus and great intensity. Subtle smoke notes pair with tart cherry and slate flavors that finish with harmony and verve. Always an intriguing wine. Drink now through 2019. About $65.

-  July 13, 2016

Domaine du Pré Semelé Sancerre Blanc 2014. Interesting scents of ginger, lychee, white peach, and parsley before a beautifully textured palate that's super-elegant, focused and refined. The flavors are all about stone fruits, citrus, and river rock. Energetic and very intriguing, holding your interest through the whole progression. Drink now. About $28.

-  July 10, 2016

Bodegas Shaya Shaya 2013 (Rueda). Made from 100% Verdejo, this is exhuberant and almost rich, but well-balanced and energetic, with notes of cantelope, creamsicle, red apple, passion fruit, and pineapple. With air, some blood orange and vanilla flavors emerge. Very pleasing, focused, and great with spicy food. Drink now. About $15.

-  July 9, 2016

Château Bonnet Blanc 2014 (Bordeaux). An inexpensive, everyday white value, made from 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon, and 10% Muscadelle, with notes of grass, green apples, fresh herbs, and melon. Some energetic lime qualities. Not complex, but is zippy and fresh for a summer picnic. Drink now. About $11.

-  July 8, 2016

De Wetshof Chardonnay Limestone Hill 2015 (Robertson). This clean, unoaked Chard offers scents of bamboo forest, lime peel, and river rock. Medium-bodied, ripe, with not shy flavors reminiscent of peaches, oranges, pear, and pineapple. Maybe a hint of cream, but has plenty of acitity to keep it from being weighted down. Great with a salad. Drink now. About $14.

-  July 7, 2016

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (Knights Valley). While extremely consistent in style, this year's version is clearly better than the 2012, showing a nose of pure cassis, cherries, toast, licorice, and lavender. A touch medicinal. Dense, more structured, with plenty of fruit purity and length. Still a fanstastic value -- if this were from Napa, they could charge twice as much. Drink now through 2016. About $26.

-  July 6, 2016

Les Dauphins Rosé 2015 (Côtes du Rhône). Pretty color that many of the 2015 French rosés seem to have, then scents of school supplies (erasers, pencil shavings) and a hint of raspberry. Cherry fruit on the attack moves to boiled peanuts on the midpalate, then a metallic, fresh finish. Interesting, inexpensive rosé. Drink now. About $10.

-  July 3, 2016

Undurraga Carignan Terrior Hunter 2012 (Maule Valley). Deep red color, with notions of smoke, wet earth, coffee grounds, cherries, plums, boysenberries, and red bell peppers. Has a forest/wild quality to it. Medium-bodied, focused, and tasty, with a briary finish that moves on to more berries. Represents a real value. Made from 50 year old dry farmed vines. Drink now through 2020. About $19.

-  July 2, 2016

Le Charmel Rosé 2015 (Côtes de Provence). Crisp and relatively simple, but at this price, that's OK, with modest herb, raspberry, cherry, and flower notes, finishing with pleasant bitterness. Lots of acidity (in a good way), and made for warm weather. Made from 30% Syrah, 30% Cinsault, 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache, and 10% Rolle. Drink now. About $10.

-  July 1, 2016

Delamotte Brut Champagne Non-Vintage. From Le Mesnil sur Oger comes this very expressive bubbly, featuring bread dough, honey, and citrus scents. Very nicely done, having excellent balance, fantastic acidity, and plenty of ripe grapefruit and berry notes. Finishes long and complete. Hard not to love this wine. Great now, but could age for a couple of years. About $45.

-  June 30, 2016

Moet & Chandon Champagne Brut Dom Perignon 2006. An outstanding wine, having all the extreme elegance, nuance, and flavor one expects from this cuvée. Having lively, small bubbles, with a straw color, this offers scents of lemons, butterscotch, white flowers, honey, and a hint of funk. Beautiful texture, with flavors of bread dough, brioche, citrus rind, and preserved lemons. Cranberry/strawberry notes move on to minerality and sea air qualities along the lengthy finish. Young and vibrant, with a long life ahead. Amazing. Drink now through 2028. About $150.

-  June 23, 2016

Tolaini Tenuta S. Giovanni Valdisanti 2006 (Toscana). Last tasted 5 years ago, the 2006 Valdisanti is still showing strongly, with striking aromas of smoke, dark licorice, freshly brewed coffee, and iodine. Medium-bodied, powerful, and dense. Impressive, with notions of crushed rocks, more licorice, and lavender on the palate. Made from 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese, and 5% Cabernet Franc. Mature, but will last for another 6 years. About $35.

-  June 22, 2016

Vega de Tera Blanco 2014 (Castilla Y León). Hint of green color, then notes of lychee, grass, green apples, peach, and lime juice. Tasty, with zippy acidity. Easy, approachable, clean, and cheap. Made for summer drinking. 100% Verdejo. About $10.

-  June 20, 2016

Domaine de la Janasse Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Chaupin 2013. Offering immediate appeal, with scents of olives, cherries, and hints of undergrowth and spice. Medium-bodied, forward, with excellent purity and a pleasurable character. Tobacco and anise on the long finish. Great now, but will hold for six or more years. About $75.

-  June 19, 2016

Júlio Bastos Rosé Dona Maria 2015 (Alentejano). Made from 60% Aragonez and 40% Touriga Nacional, this offers notions of watermelon, oranges, and raspberries, with very good minerality. Not complex, but is very well balanced, with good body and focus. Drink now. About $15.

-  June 16, 2016

Catena Zapata Malbec Catena Alta Historic Rows 2013 (Mendoza). Coming from a blend of four of Catena's best Malbec vineyards, this offers up a dark, loamy nose, with notions of briary black fruit and roasted coffee. Full-bodied, extracted, and focused, with flavors of mocha and boysenberry, ending with a peppery note. A step up from their regular Malbec bottling, this has some richness allied with solid acidity on the long finish. Fine now, and probably better in a year. About $35.

-  June 15, 2016

Kris Pinot Grigio 2014 (Venezie). Parsley, river rock, and a hint of acetone on the nose. Starts off slow in the mouth, but ends with a lot of white peach and cantelope flavors, plus some tropical fruit. Clean and vibrant, this is good for a cheap Pinot Grigio. Drink now. About $12.

-  June 14, 2016

Casa Ferreirinha Planalto Reserva 2013 (Douro). Some reductive qualities in the nose (like rubber glove), but they aren't distracting, with a palate that's more like crushed oyster shells, green pear, and hints of citrus peel. Begs for some shellfish. Refreshing and energetic. Made from 40% Viosinho, 20% Malvasia Fina, 15% Gouveio, 15% Códega, and 10% Arinto. Drink now. About $12.

-  June 8, 2016

Château Pesquié Rosé Terrasses 2015 (Ventoux). Very light hue, with a floral nose (and a hint of eraser?). Strawberry, kiwi, and raspberry flavors that are light but not innocous. Ends with a stone note. Nicely balanced, and great with food. Better than the 2014. Made from 50% Cinsault, 40% Grenache, and 10% Syrah. Drink now. About $13.

-  June 6, 2016

Calera Pinot Noir 2012 (Central Coast). Nice depth to the nose, with notions of pipe tobacco, cherry, dark spices, and cola. Excellent, mid-weight texture, with a palate that's expressive with ripe fruit but also nicely balanced and long. This is Calera's "regular" bottling, but don't let that dissuade you, it's got plenty to keep you interested. Drink now through 2020. About $24.

-  June 3, 2016

Tenuta delle Terre Nere Guardiola 2011 (Etna Rosso). Dark! A touch medicinal and almost inky, with dark spices and violets, then very earthy (but not in a dirty way). Dense and powerful, starting with cranberries, but has an interesting progression to more brooding, iodine notes, with toothy tannin on the finish. Give this lots of air to drink now, or wait a few years. About $42.

-  June 2, 2016

Saget La Perirère Rosé La Petite Perrière 2015 (Vin de France). Floral, pretty nose that's bright with cherries, citrus rind, and dried lavender notes. Good fruit on the palate, with nice acidity and a slightly bitter finish (in a good way), ending with a lemony note. Not very complex, but does a good job for the price, and offers a crunchy bite of texture. Drink now. About $10.

-  May 30, 2016

Schramsberg Brut Rosé 2012 (North Coast). Having a gorgeous peach/pink color, with very fine bubbles, this is a fantastic effort, and one of the best versions of Schamsberg's rosés we've tried. Plenty of refined fruit, like crushed raspberries and watermelon, plus notions of flowers, red citrus, and a hint of biscuit. Very expressive. Made from 77% Pinot Noir and 23% Chardonnay. Best to drink within a few years. About $35.

-  May 26, 2016

Domaine du Chalet Pouilly Saint Veran 2014. Herbal nose, like cilantro and soap, plus green apples and hints of cheese. Nicely done, with distinct minerality paired with flavors of lemon, flowers, and white peaches. Stays vibrant through the finish. Drink now. About $20.

-  May 26, 2016

Poggio al Tesoro Vermentino Solosole 2014 (Toscana). Scented with white peach, wax, and orange rind notes, this puts forth a fleshy palate, with more wax notes, plus ripe pear and lemon flavors. Good acidity on the finish. Holds up to bigger flavors, so have this with some spicy foods. From Bolgheri. Drink now. About $18.

-  May 25, 2016

Les Vignerons de St. Hilaire d'Ozilhan Rosé Prestige 2015 (Cotes du Rhone). Made from 40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, and 20% Cinsault, this offers a soft pink color, with notes of raspberry, watermelon and peach. Modest in scope, but is refreshing and easy to like. Great as an apertif. Drink now. About $10.

-  May 24, 2016

Domaine Cheveau Mâcon Solutré-Pouilly Sur Le Mont 2014. Green, grassy, and fresh, this is a totally tasty, vibrant white Burgundy. Lemon and mineral notes on the palate, staying bright and inviting. No hint of oak. Lean, and wonderfully drinkable for the summer. Drink now. About $22.

-  May 23, 2016

Numanthia-Termes Numanthia 2003 (Toro). From 70-100 year old Tinto de Toro vines comes this powerful beauty of a wine. Notions of chocolate, blueberries, coffee, blackberries, and vanilla. Fantastic intensity and focus, and expertly balanced. Long, generous finish. Captivating. Mature, but not fading. Spends 18 months in new French oak. Drink now through 2020. About $70.

-  May 20, 2016

Catena Zapata Malbec 2013 (Mendoza). Dark fruit (prunes, blackberries), then licorice and coffee scents. Full-bodied, very well-made and harmonious. Impressive for the price, with notions of ripe blue/black fruit, red bell peppers, and a sense of liveliness while still being round and welcoming. Not overly structured, so drink this now through 2020. About $19.

-  May 18, 2016

Domaine de Fontsainte Gris de Gris 2015 (Corbières). Pretty color that's relatively light for rosé. Cantelope, hints of dust and raspberries on the nose move to flavors of lavender, apple, and cherries. Nice texture and lively acidity. Really delicious this year. Drink now through 2018. About $20.

-  May 16, 2016

Mitolo Shiraz Savitar 2004 (McLaren Vale). Amazing wine. While the nose impresses with smoke, blackberry and toast notes, it's the palate that's astonishing for the level of density and depth. Sticks to the mouth with focused fruit and coffee flavors, with a finish that lasts nearly a minute. Wow. Will certainly make the top 10 this year. Drink now through 2022. About $80.

-  May 14, 2016

Stags' Leap Winery Petite Sirah 2012 (Napa Valley). Opaque purple/red, with a very complex, inviting nose of molasses, espresso, bitter chocolate, tobacco, deep woods berries, roasted herbs, iodine, and black pepper. Dark and intense, this is full-bodied and layered, offering licorice, blackberry, and squid ink flavors. Excellent. Fantastic now, but will last for at least 10 years. About $30.

-  May 12, 2016

Domaine Vetriccie Rosé 2015 (Île de Beauté). Dusty nose, like crushed up slate, then notions of tart cherries and orange rind. Refreshing, plesantly tart, and lean. Needs more on the finish, but is overall nicely done, with celery, raspberry, and green apple notes. Made from 40% Niellucciu, 30% Sciaccarellu, 15% Grenache, and 15% Merlot. Drink now. About $15.

-  May 8, 2016

Zenato Valpolicella Classico 2013. Leather, tobacco, violets, and notions of peanuts on the nose. Some great flesh here, with supportive acidity, finishing with a burst of wild berries. Not challenging, but very enjoyable, especially with food. Drink now through 2019. About $12.

-  May 4, 2016

Domaine Valfont Rosé 2014 (Coteaux d'Aix-En-Provence). Bright nose, with fresh, tart berries and canteloupe notes. Big acidity, but balanced by fun fruit and summer pleasure. Easygoing and versitile. Made from 50% Grenache, 35% Cinsault and 15%  Syrah. Drink now. About $10.

-  May 1, 2016

Heidsieck Monopole Champagne Brut Gold Top 2005. Golden in color, with fantastic, intense aromas of honey, orange marmalade, yeasty bread dough, and subtle flowers. Rich and full of depth, with red berry and candied fruit qualities (without being sweet), ending with a graham cracker and red apple note, with some dark spices. Very impressive. Not for those looking for a delicate bubbly. Drink now through 2018. About $50.

-  April 30, 2016

Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico Riserva Berardo 2010. Very classically Sangiovese in a great way, with notions of tart dried cherries, tobacco, and leather. Medium-bodied, balanced, and focused. Old World, in the best sense of it. Dark and inviting. Drink now through 2021. About $28.

-  April 29, 2016

Luigi Bosca Malbec Single Vineyard 2012 (Luán de Cujo). Made from 70 year old vines, and aged for 14 months in oak, this exhibits scents of smoke, cedar, vanilla, dark mushrooms, and interesting lavender qualities. Medium-bodied, peppery, with excellent acidity and density to carry it through. Boysenberry and tobacco! Well done, but not for fans of plush Malbec. Drink now through 2013. About $20.

-  April 22, 2016

Commanderie de Peyrassol Rosé 2015 (Côtes de Provence). Pale color, with a very pretty nose of cantelope, celery, and raspberries. Very elegant and refined, offering fantastic, silky texture, with flavors reminiscent of oranges, red apples, and berries. Crisp and pure. Drink now through 2018. About $22.

-  April 20, 2016

Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2015 (Coastal Region). No shortage of cassis and bright cherry notes here, paired with great acidity and freshness. Finishes with subtle herb/citrus rind qualities, staying mouthwatering and vibrant. Drink now. About $12.

-  April 13, 2016

Paul Buisse Touraine 2014. Bright, with a very grassy/herbal nose plus notions of stone fruit and river rock. Nice purity here, with a sense of elegance and restraint to the pear and citrus flavors. Drink now. About $12.

-  April 11, 2016

Tiefenbrunner Pinot Bianco 2014 (Alto Adige). Hint of green color, and also green on the nose, like fresh cut herbs and a mown lawn, then some lime peel notes. Excellent balance, with moderate body, finishing with a hint of clementine. Very fresh and inviting. Drink now. About $15.

-  April 9, 2016

Bodegas Nekeas Rosé Vega Sindoa 2015 (Navarra). Made from 100% Garnacha, this is bright red for a rosé, and exhibits exhuberant scents of bananas and crushed raspberries. Tons of fruit on the palate (mostly cherries), with very good intensity and focus. A rosé for red wine drinkers. Drink now. About $10.

-  April 5, 2016

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon Wight Vineyard 2006 (Napa Valley). Ripe bell pepper, camphor, and roasted herb aromas emerge from this ultra-rich, plush, and pure beauty. In the mouth, there are hints of iodine to go with cassis, blackberry, and black licorice notes. Long, long finish. An amazing wine, with real dark intensity to it. Totally captivating for the levels of fruit and harmony. 15.3% alcohol, but without a hint of heat or being overbearing. Great now, but will last for 10 or more years. About $80.

-  April 2, 2016

Artea Rosé 2015 (Alpes de Haute Provence). Very pale pink, with raspberry and citrus notes, plus zippy acidity. Crisp, refreshing, and while not complex, it has no flaws. Nice pleasant bitterness on the finish. Cheap too. Drink now. About $7.

-  April 1, 2016

Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs 2009 (North Coast). Exotic scents of cardamom and ripe cheese, with hints of yeasty bread and citrus. Both rich and elegant in the mouth, with real volume and intriguing texture, having a creamy quality (Creamsicle?), plus red apple and raspberry flavors. Not their normal Blanc de Noirs, but in a good way. Drink now. About $35.

-  March 31, 2016

Luca Malbec 2012 (Uco Valley). Deep ruby/purple color, with scents of milk chocolate, wild berries, and vanilla. Not as plush as some vintages, but has with good acidity, excellent purity, and outstanding presence to the mocha, blackberry, and smoke notes, with refined, integrated tannins. Might be better in a year, then drink through 2022. About $30.

-  March 29, 2016

Mastroberardino Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco 2013. Bright yellow color. Made from Coda di Volpe grapes grown on volcanic soils, this exhibits a burnt sugar quality on the nose, plus anise candies, green herbs, and candle wax. Ripe pears on the palate, with hints of peach and lanolin. Moderate body, staying crisp on the finish. Drink now. About $16.

-  March 28, 2016

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2006 (Napa Valley). The 2005 vintage of this classic Napa Cab was our favorite wine of last year, and the 2006 is certain to make the top 10 this year. With focused aromatics of cassis, smoke, and vanilla, it's pure and astonishing for its clarity of fruit and balance. Rich, full-bodied, and completely harmonious, with a layered mid-palate of red and dark fruits, smoke, chocolate, and beautiful oak notes. The finish sails on and on, with ripe tannins. Absolutely gorgeous at this stage, and will last for at least 10 more years. About $100.

-  March 27, 2016

QVE Quinta Da Falorca 2008 (Dão). Made from Touriga Nacional, Rufete, Jaen, Alfrocheiro, and Tinta Roriz grapes, this has a color like midnight. Old world nose, like shitake mushrooms, incense, and something medicinal. Powerful, dense, and muscular, with dark fruit and black tea notes. Impressive. Decant to drink now, and will last for another 10 years. About $25.

-  March 26, 2016

Jean Marc Brocard Chablis Domaine Sainte Claire 2014. We're fans of this Chablis specialist, especially for this real value in the appellation, showing a funky cheese nose initially, but let it burn off to show the white peach and lime notes. Fresh and very minerally, like ground up chalk, with an enjoyable texture and very clean quality. Nicely done. Drink now. About $20.

-  March 24, 2016

Domaine Houchart Rosé 2015 (Côtes de Provence). Strikingly fruity compared to previous vintages, with overt strawberry, raspberry, and peach notes, but still has good acidity and stays balanced. Not in the lean style we've come to expect, and kind of reminicent of strawberry/kiwi Snapple. Still worth recommending. Drink now. About $12.

-  March 23, 2016

Henri de Villamont Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc de Blancs Non-Vintage. Lacking in aromatics, but the palate is soft, gentle and reminiscent of lemon curd, spring flowers, and grapefruit rind. The texture is very enjoyable. Have this one as an easygoing apertif. Drink right away. About $15.

-  March 16, 2016

Terredora Di Paolo Falanghina 2014 (Irpinia).  Savory herbs on the nose, plus hints of bitter citrus rind and flowers.  Has some rocky minerality, paired with grapefruit and pear essences, then a bright, pleasantly acidic (lime juice) finish.  Drink now.  About $15.

-  March 14, 2016

Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia 2010.  A gorgeous expression of Sangiovese, with tobacco, freshley brewed coffee, lavender and cherry aromas, then roasted chestnuts and more cherry fruit in the mouth.  Medium-bodied with fine tannins and excellent purity, ending with a spicy note.  Really gorgeous balance.  Fine now, but probably better in a year, and will last through 2026.  About $45.

-  March 13, 2016

Celler Cal Pla Black Slate Porrera 2013 (Priorat).  Maybe better than the 2012, this again delivers an astonishing value for this appellation, showing fantastic purity and amazing intensity, with notions of licorice, crushed rocks, black cherries, blueberries, and smoke.  Harmonious acidity, full-bodied, with a beautiful finish and refined tannins.  Very Priorat.  Made from Grenache and Carignan (60-80 year old vines), and weighs in at 15% alcohol.  Ready now, and will last for another 6 years.  About $21.

-  March 11, 2016

Bérèche & Fils Champagne Brut Réserve Non-Vintage.  Disgorged in September 2015, this exhibits a lively bead, with complex scents of butterscotch, chalky earth, citrus peel, and ripe pears.  A structured style that presents with an intense attack and mouthfilling texture, followed by flavors of roasted nuts and lots of volume.  Probably better in a year, and will last for a few more after that.  About $45.

-  March 8, 2016

Quinta da la Rosa dauRosa White 2012 (Douro).  Shows some crushed rock minerality on the nose, plus white peach and button mushrooms.  Beeswax and apricot flavors on a medium to full-bodied frame, yet fresh and inviting, with a green peppercorn finish.  Try with rich fish.  Drink now through 2019.  About $14.

-  March 7, 2016

Ridge Lytton Springs 2009 (Dry Creek Valley).  Made from 71% Zinfandel, 23% Petite Sirah, and 6% Carignan, this vintage shows some elevated acidity (in a great, fresh, inviting way), with tons of briary fruit, smoke, and freshly brewed coffee notes.  Some solid structure and great intensity.  Here at davidjohnhansen.com, we wonder if Ridge ever produces a bad bottle.  Drink now through 2022.  About $35.

-  March 6, 2016

Louis Jadot Volnay Clos de la Barre 2011.  Pretty garnet color.  Very well-executed, with exotic spice scents and shitake mushroom, plus flowers and cherries.  Starts off shy, but has an impressive mid-palate.  Structured, precise, and energetic.  Finishes long, with a touch of loamy earth.  Drink now through 2021.  About $55.

-  March 3, 2016

Peju Province Sauvignon Blanc 2014 (Napa Valley).  Juicy, very lively and fleshy, with notions of ripe green apple, pear, red grapefruit, and tropical fruit (especially with air).  Very likeable.  Slightly herbal finish that's focused and pure.  Drink now.  About $22.

-  March 1, 2016

Château Le Conseiller 2005 (Bordeaux Superior).  Made from 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, and having an expressive nose of lavender, smoke, peat, red roses, tobacco, and blackberries.  Not tired, showing a beautiful texture and dense fruit, as well as supportive tannins. Drink now through 2019.  About $25.

-  February 29, 2016

Bila-Haut Rosé 2014 (Pays d'Oc).  Bright, electric salmon color, with scents of orange rind, minerals, and flowers.  Fantastic acidity, turning creamy with air, with watermelon, pear, and raspberry notes.  A crackling finish offering slight honeydew flavors.  Drink now.  About $14.

-  February 26, 2016

Mason Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Pomelo 2014 (California).  Just like its namesake fruit, so if you don't like large citrus fruits and intense, juicy flavor, this isn't for you.  Generous and easy to enjoy, with notions of tropical fruit (mango?), with plenty of acidity and verve, and a touch of savory on the finish.  One of the best versions of this we've had.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  February 25, 2016

Seghesio Zinfandel 2013 (Sonoma County).  Year after year, Seghesio's "basic" bottling is always reliable and impressive, with notions of black pepper, tons of blue and black fruit, and a velvety full-bodied texture.  Generous and balanced, with a jump of intensity on the finish.  Joyful.  Drink now through 2019.  About $22.

-  February 24, 2016

Kumeu River Chardonnay Hunting Hill 2012 (Auckland).  Beautifully scented, with effusive notes of lemon curd, ripe pear, white peach, fresh herbs, and tropical fruit.  Medium in body, with a layered palate and gorgeous texture, plus fantastic, bright acidity.  Lots of river rock notes to go with the green mango and citrus.  Long, focused finish.  A beauty.  Drink now through 2019.  About $45.

-  February 23, 2016

Achaval Ferrer Malbec 2013 (Mendoza).  We haven't had this producer's wines in a while, so it's great to have a confirmation that they're still making serious bottles.  Very perfumed, like lillies and roses, plus iron, wild berries and Turkish coffee.  Harmonious and almost elegant, and having medium body.  Tea leaves on the finish, along with notions of plum and cherries, paired with very lively acidity.  Very nicely done.  Drink now through 2020.  About $27.

-  February 16, 2016

Leyda Pinot Noir Las Brisas 2012 (Leyda Valley).  A touch of acetone on the nose, then roasted beets, cherries, and mushrooms.  Solid fruit and tobacco flavors, with a hint of rare meat, adding to complexity.  Great finish, showing nuance and earthiness.  Kind of old world in style.  Drink now through 2020.  About $24.

-  February 15 ,2016

Domaine de la Cadette Bourgogne Vézelay La Châtelaine 2014.  Crushed limestone, orange blossom, pear, and subtle peach notes (mostly on the finish).  Medium-bodied, with very good intensity, focus, and a lasting impression.  Nice purity in a value white Burgundy.  Drink now.  About $25.

-  February 13, 2016

Ricitos de Oro White Grenache 2014 (Navarra).  Like river rocks on the nose, plus white peach, flowers, and longan fruit.  Fresh and very energetic, with ripe pear, lime peel and stone fruit notes.  Try with crab legs, at a low-risk price.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  February 11, 2016

Dow Vale do Bomfim 2011 (Douro).  Shows aromas of bloody meat, minerals, iodione, slate, and seaweed, then the palate is more about dark chocolate and wild berries.  Full-bodied and dense, with a powerful finish for the price (where the licorice shows up).  A great winter wine.  Fantastic value.  Also, the winner of the Battle of the Portuguese Reds #2.  Drink now through 2021.  About $13.

-  February 9, 2016

E. Guigal Côte Rôtie Brune et Blonde 2000.  We've had better vintages of Brune et Blonde, but this is still charming and pleasurable , with notions of crushed rocks, rust, wild herbs, and black fruit.  Medium-bodied, perfumed, and focused.  Very mature, so drink up if you still have one.  About $60.

-  February 8, 2016

Casamonti Chianti Classico Riserva 2011.  Very classicly Sangiovese in style (in a good way), with scents of dark tobacco, tart cherry, and a dusty quality.  Medium-bodied, expressive, and balanced.  Well-made, with some lavender and fresh coffee notes, enlivend by fresh acidity.  Drink now through 2021.  About $30.

-  January 19, 2016

Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (Napa Valley).  Warm and toasty, showing scents of cedar, black cherries, and cassis.  Classic, old-school style of Napa Cab, in a medium to full-bodied format, with precision and focus, gaining depth with air.  Flavors of tobacco, loam, coffee, and burning ember emerge with time.  Not for fans of plush, super-ripe Cabernet.  Drink now through 2022.  About $45.

-  January 17, 2016

Torres Verdejo Verdeo 2013 (Rueda).  Hint of green in color.  Very spring, with notions of fresh herbs, citrus peel, and pea shoots.  Lively and very energetic.  Finishes clean and uncomplicated.  Drink now as an apertif.  About $10.

-  January 14, 2016

Brancaia Ilatraia 2011 (Toscana).  Harmonious nose of dark tobacco, blackberries, espresso and vanilla.  This impresses with its power and elegance, showing an earthy quality (is that escargot?), with uplift and brightness, paired with dark fruit, smoke, and spice notes with fantastic intensity.  Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc.  Decant if you want to drink now.  About $45.

-  January 13, 2016

Simonnet-Febvre Chablis 2014.  Some strong cheese notes at first, but let this air out to reveal the white peach and pear scents.  Clean and bright, with enjoyable notions of crushed rocks, mushrooms/wet earth, and then lime peel on the finish.  Drink now.  About $20.

-  January 9, 2016

Château Pipeau 2009 (Saint Emilion).  Reminiscent of mushrooms, lavender, plums, and soy sauce on the nose.  Generous in the mouth, featuring blueberry, blackberry, and mocha notes.  Full-bodied, with solid acidity and pleasing length.  Mature, but will last a few more years.  About $25.

-  January 8, 2016

Júlio Bastos Tinto Dona Maria 2012 (Alentejano).  Shy nose, but there's a clear streak of iron running through the middle of the palate, along with briary plum flavors.  Dark, but with nice acidity to prop it up.  Good value.  Made from 50% Aragonez, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Alicante Bouschet, and 15% Syrah.  Drink now through 2020.  About $16.

-  January 5, 2016

Duval Leroy Champagne Brut Premier Cru Non-Vintage.  We're fans of the regular bottling by Duval Leroy, but this version from superior vineyards takes it up a level.  Really pretty aromas reminiscent to honey, fresh bread dough, apples, and citrus rind.  Frothy in texture, with very good intensity and excellent focus. Finishes with a bit of butterscotch and roasted nuts, gaining volume with air. Drink now.  About $55.

-  January 4, 2016

Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo 2009.  A wonderful wine of generosity, purity, and soaring aromatics.  Notions of eucalyptus, cherry, toasted bread, and truffle on the nose, then medium-body and focused tar and ripe red bell pepper notes.  Extracted, relatively soft, with great fruit and an approachable style.  Decant to drink now, and will hold for 6 years.  About $60.

-  January 3, 2016

Domaine Lafage Tessellae Old Vines 2013 (Cotes du Roussillon).  Showing amazing purity and focus is this blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, and 20% Mourvedre.  Medium to full in body, with notes of smoke, darks spices, black fruit, freshly brewed coffe, and undergrowth.  Long in finish, where the licorice, fruit and briary notes intertwine.  Drink now through 2021.  About $17.

-  December 31, 2015

Coming up with the top ten for 2015 was extremely difficult this year, simply because we recommended so many fantastic wines and so many values (a great problem to have).  In the end, the top ten is more heavy with bigger reds this year, with three fantastic Napa Valley Cabernets in the top five, and two bottles from Two Hands in Australia (both from the 2005 vintage).

Last year's results were very Champagne heavy, but only two made it this year, plus a relative value from Vietti in Barolo.

#1 - Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2005 (Napa Valley). 

#2 - Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 (Napa Valley).

#3 - Pierre Paillard Brut Champagne Grand Cru Non-Vintage. 

#4 - Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 40th Anniversary 2012 (Napa Valley). 

#5 - Two Hands Shiraz Bella's Garden 2005 (Barossa Vallley). 

#6 - Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2007. 

#7 - Alto Moncayo Veraton 2012 (Campo de Borja). 

#8 - Varnier Fanniere Champagne Brut Grand Cru Non-Vintage.

#9 - Robert Craig Affinity 2010 (Napa Valley). 

#10 - Two Hands Brave Faces 2005 (Barossa Valley). 

Honorable mentions:

Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf Du Pape La Crau 2005. 

Domaine Lafage Bastide Miraflors 2013 (Côtes Catalanes). 

J.A. Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé 2013. 

Luigi Bosca Malbec Terroir Los Miradores 2012 (Uco Valley). 

Tenet Wines Syrah The Pundit 2013 (Columbia Valley). 


-  December 27, 2015

Mud House Sauvignon Blanc 2014 (Marlborough).  A classicly styled New Zealand Sauv Blanc, with notions of grapefruit, pea shoots, limes, bell pepper, and passion fruit.  Modest in scope, but zippy and inviting.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  December 23, 2015

Teso La Monja Almirez 2012 (Toro). Opaque purple/red.  Dense, powerful nose of wood smoke, acetone, burnt chocolate chip cookies, and blackberries.  Some real guts to this, exhibiting the masculine side of this grape.  Black tea, plums, and bitter coffee on the finish.  Much more generous with air.  Made from 100% Tinto de Toro.  Best to wait a year or two.  About $25.

-  December 21, 2015

Lan Reserva 2008 (Rioja).  Very pretty nose, with integrated chocolate, lavender, and vanilla scents.  Cherry attack, then a beautiful texture that flows across the palate with elegance and focus.  Long finish of mocha, fig, and spice.  Composed of 80% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo, and 10% Garnacha.  A serious value.  Drink now through 2020.  About $20.

-  December 19, 2015

Hugel Gentil 2013 (Alsace).  Light, crisp and enjoyable, with notions of white peach, flowers, green apple, fresh herbs, and a nice line of minerality.  Very versitile, food wise.  Impressive with crab.  Made from Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, and Sylvaner.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  December 17, 2015

Acinum Soave Classico 2014.  Surprisingly good body to this, surrounding notes of lemons, fresh herbs, orange rind, and limestone.  Focused, easy to like (but not simple), with admirable balance.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  December 14, 2015

Domaine Serene Pinot Noir 2009 (Oregon).  This "basic" bottling from an excellent producer shows how even their lower level of their portfolio is still noteworthy.  Notions of cherry cola, mocha, currants, dark spices and wet soil.  Excellent purity, impressive balance, and fabulous length.  Drink now through 2019.  About $35.

-  December 11, 2015

Kobalt Window Pane 2011 (Napa Valley).  Complex scents of licorice, coffee, loamy organic dark soil, squid ink, and a medicinal note.  Impressive texture (flowing and intense at the same time), with black fruit notes.  Plush and forward, with pronounced licorice flavors on the long finish.  Made from 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Petite Sirah, and 5% Carignane.  Drink now through 2019.  About $45.

-  December 10, 2015

Leyda Sauvignon Blanc 2013 (Leyda Valley).  A metallic note to go with the abundance of tropical fruit, such as mango, guava, and passion fruit. Very supportive acidity that supports the generous attack (lemons, grass), then fades a bit too quickly, but this is very inviting and enjoyable for the price.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  December 9, 2015

Senorio de Barahonda Carro 2013 (Yecla).  Made from 50% Monastrell, 20% Syrah, 20% Merlot, and 10% Tempranillo, this darkly colored and darkly flavored Spanish value offers notions of smoke, ink, graphite, and black fruit, with good acitity and texture.  Impressive depth for such an inexpensive wine.  The Monastrell really stands out here.  Unoaked.  Drink now through 2018.  About $10.

-  December 8, 2015

Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva Ribera del Tinguiririca 2013 (Marchigue).  A tasty value, with generous flavors/scents of blackberry, cassis, vanilla, and mocha.  Nice focus.  Not powerful or super-complex, but enjoyable, and delivers solid Cabernet flavor.  Built for early consumption, so drink before 2018.  About $15.

-  December 5, 2015

Celler Cal Pla Black Slate Porrera 2012 (Priorat).  Smells rich, with notions of cooked tomato sauce with meat, licorice, smoke, and cough medicine.  Squid ink, crushed rocks, and dark fruit flavors on a powerful, full-bodied frame.  Dense, with impressive intensity, extraction, and length.  An amazing value.  Drink now through 2020.  About $20.

-  December 4, 2015

J.A. Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé 2013.  Maintains a sense of elegance throughout, with aromas of lemon curd, lime lest, and mushrooms.  Really beautiful palate, with energy and verve to the crispy pear and apple flavors.  Fantastic purity.  Finishes clean, vibrant, and long.  Drink now through 2018.  About $30.

-  December 2, 2015

Andrew Murray Syrah Tours les Jours 2014 (Santa Ynez Valley).  Smokey bacon notes on the nose, plus ink and dark mushrooms.  The palate features black olives (with the can they came in) and a woodsy note, like leafy undergrowth, then licorice and blackberries.  Noticible acidity on the finish, and gains some nice volume with air.  Cool.  Drink now through 2021.  About $18.

-  November 29, 2015

Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2007.  This is a gorgeous, harmonious Barolo that offers detailed, layered notes of sweet cherries, flowers, tar, and cigar tobacco.  Has lots to offer, but remains elegant and focused, with plenty of structure.  Unfiltered.  Very impressive.  Decant to drink now.  Will last for another 10 years.  About $50.

-  November 28, 2015

Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc Spitfire 2014 (Marlborough).  We're fans of the regular Sauv Blanc from Kim Crawford, but this "small parcel" bottling shows more nuance and elegance, with a depth that holds your interest.  Passion fruit, limes, and a subtle smoke note, with a pervasive saline quality both on the nose and palate.  A lemon heavy finish that's mouthwatering and fresh.  Drink now.  About $22.

-  November 27, 2015

Chante Cigale Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 2003.  An interesting roasted meat and herb quality on the nose to go with the blueberry, iodine, and cherry notes.  Intense and full-bodied, with more of that iodine/seaweed note, plus licorice candy, smoke, and lavender.  Long, rocky finish.  Made from 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre.  Ready now, but will be fine for another 5 years.  About $55.

-  November 26, 2015

Bodegas Mas Alta Artigas 2012 (Priorat).  One could mistake this nose for a Chateauneuf-du-Pape, showing depth and richness to the licorice, black fruit, and incense notes.  Dark on the palate, with real intensity, full body, and needing of air.  Espresso, red berries, and liquid mineral flavors.  A masculine style of Priorat.  Made from 80% Grenache, 10% Carignan, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.  Wait at least a year, then drink for at least another 10.  About $28.

-  November 22, 2015

Maison de La Colline Sancerre La Craie 2014.  Lots of oyster shell and lemon rind notes on the nose.  Vibrant, on the lean side, but also focused, with kaffir lime and river rock flavors.  Finishes energetic.  Drink now.  About $17.

-  November 21, 2015

Juan Gil Monastrell 2013 (Jumilla).  From low-yield, 40 year old vines comes this astounding Spanish value.  Shows some brightness on the nose, with cranberry notes backed up by smoke and licorice.  Excellent purity and fantastic depth for the price, with medium body and a dark palate that expresses smoldering fire, espresso, anise, and black cherry.  This is the "silver label" bottling.  Drink now through 2020.  About $15.

-  November 20, 2015

Argyle Brut 2010 (Willamette Valley).  Made from 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir, this Oregon sparkler exhibits notes of honey, pineapple, red berry, red grapefruit, and orange rind.  Elegant, but with very good insensity, this is inviting and interesting, and finishes with some richness.  Lighter in body, but doesn't sacrifice flavor.  Drink now through 2017.  About $20.

-  November 18, 2015

Luigi Bosca De Sangre 2012 (Mendoza).  Made from 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 15% Syrah, this densely colored blend offers scents of shitake mushroom, burning ember, and graphite.  Dark and mysterious in profile, with medium body and solid acidity, finishing with good depth and a black pepper note to go with the fig and currant flavors.  Drink now through 2019.  About $25.

-  November 16, 2015

Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf Du Pape La Crau 2005.  Dense and powerful (reflective of the vintage), with notes of iron, seaweed, and smoke.  Finishes with an intense blast of licorice and roasted coffee, mixed with black and red fruit.  Very impressive and structured, this should last for at least another 10 years.  About $65.

-  Novemer 15, 2015

Alvaro Palacios Camins del Priorat 2014 (Priorat).  A pretty perfume here, with scents of red flowers, slate, licorice, and lots of smoke.  Youthful, with bright cherry, plum and spice notes.  Medium-bodied, focused, and finishing energetic.  Great entry-level Priorat.  Drink now through 2019.  About $20.

-  November 14, 2015

Domaine Carneros Brut 2009 (Carneros).  Really elegant and precise, with notes of white flowers, lemon zest, and hints of green apple (especially on the long finish).  Beautiful, vibrant, and inviting.  Drink now.  About $25.

-  November 13, 2015

Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco 2014.  Bright yellow in color, with notions of peach and white truffles on the nose.  Good intensity to the lime juice and apple flavors, with uplift from acidity, finishing moderately long (with a hint of caramel).  Interesting.  Drink now through 2018.  About $20.

-  November 8, 2015

Izadi Rioja Reserva 2010.  With subtle smoke and spice notes on the nose, this is an excellent value in Rioja, featuring a slightly tart attack leading to a mid-palate of both red and dark fruit, with hints of coffee.  Great depth and energy.  Sees 14 months in American oak.  100% Tempranillo.  Drink now through 2020.  About $19.

-  November 7, 2015

Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir CrossBarn 2012 (Sonoma Coast).  Fairly rich nose of black tea, cherries, eucalyptus, and camp smoke.  Really beautiful, silky texture and a long finish, with notions of dark fruit, cola, anise, and spice cabinet.  Outstanding acidity and overall balance.  Very nicely done.  Drink now through 2019.  About $35.

-  November 4, 2015

Drylands Sauvignon Blanc 2014 (Marlborough).  Gooseberry, lime, and passion fruit notes are balanced and zippy with this inviting white.  Finishes with a chalky, dry (but good) quality.  Nice.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  November 2, 2015

Marcarini Barolo Brunate 2004.  Perfumed, with notions of black truffles, freshly sharpened pencils, and tar.  Tannic, intense, and classic Barolo, showing flavors of fennel, black licorice, bitter chocolate, and cherries.  Ready now, but will hold for 5 more years.  About $70.

-  November 1, 2015

Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne 1999.  Bacon, smoke and herbs de provence on the nose.  Lacks some body and richness, but the flavors of lavender, roses, orange peel, and iron are all there, with good intensity and focus.  Drink now.  About $75.

-  October 27, 2015

Celler Cecilio Black Slate Gratallops 2013 (Priorat).  Youthful and expressive, with notions of licorice, black cherry, fig, cola, and blueberries.  Made from mostly Grenache, this sees no oak, is full-bodied, and is very generous.  Not nuanced or refined, but is a real mouthful and a real value for Priorat.  It can be consumed now or in 8 years.  About $22.

-  October 25, 2015

Aljibes Petit Verdot 2008 (Tierra de Castilla).  Just a slight hint of funk weaves through this impressively done red, with notions of ripe red bell pepper, smoke, burnt microwaved popcorn, dark spices, vanilla, coffee ice cream, and plum.  Beautiful texture, with a sense of elegance, and a modern style.  Drink now through 2021.  About $25.

-  October 21, 2015

Château Sainte Marie Reserve 2014 (Entre-Deux-Mers).  Some rubber glove scents initially, but later green pear, fresh herbs, and grass.  Very good balance, with notes of melon, orange rind, and apple.  Modest in scope, and very approachable.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  October 18, 2015

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 (Napa Valley).  Opaque purple/black, with a dense nose of plums, smoke, and charcoal.  Ultra plush, very rich and extracted in the mouth, with no shortage of black cherry, chocolate, date, licorice, and fig notes.  Still youthful, this has plenty of heft behind all the fruit, with a gorgeous texture and long finish.  Amazing.  Ready now, but will easily last for another 10 years.  About $55.

-  October 16, 2015

Cesari Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore Bosan 2012.  Having aromas of freshly brewed coffee, licorice, and tar, this is a very, very good wine of intensity and length, with real focus and impressive balance.  Notes of flowers, more coffee, and dark fruit, with a flowing nature.  Drink now through 2020.  About $35.

-  October 13, 2015

Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2014 (Marlborough).  Strikingly aromatic, and very New Zealand, but this is no ordinary Sauv Blanc.  Intense, but refined notes of grapefruit, mango, lime, passion fruit, and green guava.  Very lively, focused, and delightful, finishing with a touch of starfruit and fresh herbs.  Drink now.  About $20.

-  October 12, 2015

Wine & Soul Manoella 2012 (Douro).  With scents of cinnamon, raspberry, chocolate, and red grapefruit, this is a touch rustic (in a good way).  Full-bodied, having flavors of espresso, black licorice, black pepper.  Solid.  Made from 60% Touriga Nacional, 25% Touriga Franca, 10% Tinta Roriz, and 5% Tinta Francisca.  Drink now through 2020.  About $20.

-  October 7, 2015

Tenet Wines Syrah The Pundit 2013 (Columbia Valley).  Made by a collaboration of Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington and Michel Gassier of the Rhone Valley, this exhibits complex scents of cigar shop, baked goods, vanilla, smoke, and cream.  Very dense, with full-bodied texture, this is an ostentatious wine with tons of dark fruit, but enough intensity and acidity to keep it unified.  Licorice and coffee and the solid finish.  Outstanding value.  Drink now through 2020.  About $21.

-  October 5, 2015

Camille Savès Champagne Brut Carte Blanche Non-Vintage.  Made from Premier Cru vineyards, this exhibits notes of white flowers, tangerine, honey, peach, and lemon rind.  Bright, very elegant and refined, with an excellent attack.  Let this come to temperature for the finish to show up.  Made from 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay.  Drink now.  About $40.

-  October 4, 2015

Domaine Lafage Bastide Miraflors 2013 (Côtes Catalanes).  Made from Syrah and Grenache, this shows fantastic intensity on the nose, with focused scents of black cherries, coffee, cola, and roses.  Full-bodied, rich, and also structured, having flavors of mocha, licorice, and briary fruit.  Dense.  What value!  Drink now through 2019.  About $15.

-  October 3, 2015

Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2013 (Western Cape).  Excellent clarity of flavors and aromas, like pure kaffir limes, then fresh herbs and green pear.  Zesty, bright, and easy to enjoy, with good intensity.  Drink now.  About $14.

-  October 2, 2015

Gautheron Chablis 2014.  Has what I love about Chablis, which is that sense of vibrancy, clarity, minerality, and composure.  Notes of lime zest, green pear, and lemongrass.  No hint of oak.  Finishes zippy, with admirable intensity.  Drink now.  About $21.

-  October 1, 2015

Bruna Pigato 2014 (Riviera Ligure di Ponente).  Aromatic, with notions of ripe peaches and red apples.  Almost rich in the mouth, but also has great acidity and freshness, featuring apricot, honey, and fresh parsley flavors.  Unique.  Drink now.  About $17.

-  September 29, 2015

Júlio Bastos Dona Maria Amantis Reserva 2009 (Alentejano).  Full-bodied and internationally styled, with notes of black cherry, plums, cassis, and mocha.  Shows very good balance and freshness, with a plump, inviting character that should please many palates.  Made from equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot, and Touriga National.  Drink now through 2018.  About $18.

-  September 26, 2015

Patrick Lesec Châteauneuf Du Pape Pierres Dorées 2005.  Dark and smoky nose, with charcoal and scorched earth.  Has fantastic intensity, and shows the structure of the vintage with noticeable tannin, but with air the fruit peeks out.  Flavors of roasted meat, wild berries, and campfire, then iodine on the finish.  A masculine style.  Impressive, but needs a bit more time.  About  $45.

-  September 25, 2015

Castello D'Alba Branco 2014 (Douro).  Clear and bright, with notes of white peaches, lemons, and minerals.  Zesty and refreshing.  Not complex or compelling, but also has no flaws.  Made from Códega do Larinho, Rabigato, and Viosinho.  Drink now.  About $9.

-  September 23, 2015

Tormaresca Primitivo Toricoda 2012 (Salento).  Smells elegant and old world, with dark tobacco, dark earth, black pepper, and smoke notes.  Good structure and extracted, this is more expressive with air, featuring admirable balance and focus.  Drink now through 2018.  About $19.

-  September 20, 2015

Klinker Brick Syrah Farrah 2012 (Lodi).  A touch of eucalyptus on the dark nose, plus smoke and lavender.  Good density, with a meaty character that aligns well with the black fruit, lavender, and espresso notes.  Full-bodied and robust, and becomes pretty jammy with air, but stays balanced.  Probably better with a steak.  Drink now through 2018.  About $18.

-  September 19, 2015

Yalumba Chardonnay Unwooded Y Series 2014 (South Australia).  Very soft and approachable, with easy pear, lime, fresh herb, and peach notes. Moderate in body, with solid acidity, and a hint of tropical fruit on the finish.  Drink now. About $11.

-  September 17, 2015

Columbia Crest Gold Limited Release 2013 (Columbia Valley).  For the second year in a row, this is a juicy, delicious and soft value made from mostly Cabernet Franc.  Plum, cherry, and baked goods highlight the ripe red bell pepper notes, with little in the way of structure, but lots of inexpensive pleasure.  Drink now through 2017.  About $10.

-  September 16, 2015

Burgans Albariño 2013 (Rias Baixas).  Notions of honey, oranges, white peaches, and fresh herbs are evident in this perennial value from Spain.  With great focus and energy, this is also easy to enjoy.  Uncomplicated, but not simple.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  September 13, 2015

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2005 (Napa Valley).  Beringer's highest quality Cabernet continues to shine every time we open one, with this vintage showing no hint of fading at the 10 year mark.  Gorgeous, complex aromatics of cassis, licorice, coffee, black cherry, smoke, and chocolate.  Opulent in texture, with fantastic depth and full-body, this grabs the palate with ripe tannin and elegance that makes you smile.  The finish just sails on and on (cassis, plum, crushed rocks, and mocha).  Standing ovation.  Outstanding now, but will certainly last for another 15 years.  About $125.

-  September 12, 2015

Michel Gassier Cercius Blanc 2014 (Vin de France).  Energetic and very enjoyable, featuring notions of lime juice, white peach, orange rind, and ripe pear.  Very versatile, with good purity and freshness.  Plenty of value here.  Made from Rhone Valley Grenache Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc grapes.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  September 10, 2015

Pierrick Harang Le Petit Balthazar Blanc 2014 (Pays d'Oc).  Made from half Viognier and half Sauvignon Blanc, this offers scents of citrus, petroleum, and lemon curd.  Nice depth for the price, with mostly peach flavors, finishing with a zesty lime and mineral note.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  September 9, 2015

Sileni Sauvignon Blanc Cellar Selection 2014 (Marlborough).  Textbook New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, with scents of grass, limes, grapefruit, gooseberry, and river rocks.  Good body, and more herbal on the palate, plus tropical citrus and rambutan.  Finishes zippy, but a bit lean.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  September 7, 2015

Mas Doix Les Crestes 2012 (Priorat).  Shy aromas of smoked meat, cherries, and licorice.  The palate features a beautiful, silky texture that's almost elegant, with slate and black fruit notes.  Finishes long, with a bright, herbal/medicinal quality reminiscent of a digestif.  Made from 80% Grenache, 10% Carinena and 10% Syrah.  Drink now through 2019.  About $25.

-  September 6, 2015

Mer Soleil Chardonnay Silver 2013 (Santa Lucia Highlands).  Presented in a ceramic bottle to highlight the fact that this is an unoaked wine, this year's version offers abundant tropical fruit notes (pineapple, passion fruit, mango) compared to other years.  Clocks in at 15% alcohol, but manages to retain balance with solid acidity and admirable length.  Shows richness and purity.  Drink now.  About $20.

-  September 5, 2015

Marqués de Cáceres Verdejo 2014 (Rueda).  A real interesting vein of minerality here to go with the remarkable lime, pear, and white peach notes.  Palate-cleansing and energetic.  Great finish for an uncomplicated, easygoing summer white.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  September 3, 2015

La Posta Malbec Pizzella 2013 (Uco Valley).  Offers abundant scents of charcoal, wild berry, mocha, and cream, with real presence and concentration in the mouth.  A fantastic finish for the price, showing toasty oak and vanilla notes, but also lots of extracted, dense fruit.  Nice job!  Drink now through 2019.  About $18.

-  September 2, 2015

Château Pesquié Rosé Terrasses 2014 (Ventoux).  Pretty pink/peach color, with notions of watermelon and raspberry, but with some surprising creaminess on the mid-palate.  Finishes with vibrancy, however, along with a touch of spice.  Not as balanced as some previous vintages, but still tasty.  Made from 50% Cinsault, 40% Grenache, and 15% Syrah.  Drink now.  About $15.

-  August 18, 2015

Domaine Vetriccie Rosé 2014 (Île de Beauté).  Pretty color.  Hints of roses on the nose, then raspberries, herbs, and citrus rind flavors.  Dry and fresh, with a touch of chalk on the finish.  Nicely done, with lively acidity.  A Corsican blend of 40% Niellucciu, 30% Sciaccarellu, 15% Grenache, and 15% Merlot.  Great price!  Drink now.  About $9.

-  August 17, 2015

G.H. Mumm Champagne Brut Cordon Rouge Non-Vintage.  This bottle didn't have a ton of effervesce, but did have a ton of baked bread aromas, along with red apple and toasted walnuts.  Whole wheat biscuit notes in the mouth, with touches of caramel and spicy apple cider.  A bit richer for a middle-of-the road style of Champagne, with good balance and length.  Drink now.  About $40.

-  August 15, 2015

Armas de Guerra Rosado 2014 (Bierzo). Made from 100% Mencía, this is presents with a floral nose that also includes strawberries and citrus rind.  Dry, with supple cherry fruit and an undertone of minerality, paired with bright acidity.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  August 15, 2015

Armas de Guerra Blanco 2014 (Bierzo).  Zippy and fresh, with plenty of lime, oyster shell, lemongrass, and white peach notes.  Has a touch of that mouthwatering ocean air quality.  Bring on the shellfish.  Made from 82% Doña Blanca, and 15% Godello.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  August 14, 2015

Roederer Estate Brut Non-Vintage (Anderson Valley).  This continues to be an astonishing wine for the price, offering inviting scents of roasted nuts, orange marmalade, ginger, and honey. Shows real complexity and depth, paired with fantastic acidity and focus. The volume of flavor is excellent (citrus, spices, white flowers, bread dough), with great presence.  Drink now.  About $20.

-  August 13, 2015

Château Grande Cassagne Rosé 2014 (Costières de Nîmes).  Continues their house style of rosé, with a very overt style and bright pink color.  Plenty of raspberry, watermelon, orange rind, and red apple flavors.  Shows some density, with zippy acidity and tons of juicy fruit.  Made from 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  August 9, 2015

Renacer Enamore 2010 (Mendoza).  Blackberry jam, licorice, and coffee scents leap from this excellent collaboration between Rencer and Allegrini.  Delicious and resonant, with tons of black fruit, then licorice on the long finish.  Concentrated and focused, with hints of vanilla and smoke.  Made using the appassimento method from 45% Malbec, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Bonarda.  Great stuff.  Drink now through 2020.  About $24.

-  August 8, 2015

Júlio Basto Branco Dona Maria 2014 (Alentejano).  Clean, expressive, and vibrant all at once, with abundant river rock, white peach, and fresh herb notes.  Refreshing, with great minerality and verve, finishing with modest length, and a citrus pith quality.  Made from 30% Viosinho, 35% Arinto, and 30% Antao Vãz.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  August 7, 2015

Finca Villacreces Pruno 2012 (Ribera del Duero).  Scorched earth, black fruit, and bell pepper aromas emerge from this Spanish value.  Extracted and dense, with more smoke notes in the mouth, plus black currant, licorice, and plum.  Shows purity, with a youthful, dark quality that's a bit primary right now, so this needs lots of aeration to tone down the fine tannins.  Try in a year or two.  About $20.

-  August 6, 2015

Slavcek Pinot Grigio 2014 (Vipavska Dolina).  One could easily mistake this for a pale rosé judging by the color.  Vibrant in the mouth, with shocking amounts of limestone minerality, along with white peach, lemon, and chive flavors.  Unusual, and almost effervescent, finishing with a slightly bitter edge.  Better with food.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  August 5, 2015

Mas d'en Compte Black Slate Porrera 2011 (Priorat).  Incense and black cherry aromas are followed by a palate of great intensity and volume, showing notions of crushed rocks and dark fruit, with a plush, welcoming full-bodied texture.  A bit hot on the nose, but is a fantastic value for this appellation.  Drink now through 2021.  About $20.

-  August 4, 2015

Santa Rita Cabernet Sauvignon Medalla Real Gran Reserva 2010 (Maipo Valley).  Very classically Cabernet, with notes of cassis, black cherry, mocha, leather, cedar, and tobacco.  Kind of old world in flavor profile, but has new world texture, with very fine-grained tannins and admirable balance.  Represents an excellent value.  Drink now through 2020.  About $16.

-  August 1, 2015

Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc 2014 (Casablanca Valley).  Always a reliable value, this is a varietally correct, good summer sipper with scents of pea shoots, turpentine, and gooseberry.  Vibrant and clean, with mostly citrus and grass flavors.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  July 28, 2015

DiamAndes Perlita 2013 (Uco Valley).  This opaque blend of 80% Malbec and 20% Syrah offers scents of smoke, blackberries, cherry, and roses.  Good depth here, with notions of cream, vanilla, and black fruit that expand with aeration. Refreshing acidity shows up on the finish.  Not awesome, but represents a good value.  Drink now through 2019.  About $13.

-  July 27, 2015

Château de Roquefort Rosé Corail 2014 (Côtes de Provence).  Nicely executed, with really solid watermelon, raspberry, and light cherry fruit, with zippy acidity and real character.  Almost fleshy, hinting at citrus pith on the finish. One of the better rosés this year.  Made from Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan, Vermentino, and Clairette.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  July 26, 2015

Domaine Sigalas White 2014 (Santorini).  Composed of 75% Assyrtiko and 25% Athir, this offers a chalky nose and a crisp, vibrant, and clean character.  Having flavors of lemon curd, pear, and limestone, this begs for a hot summer day and a seafood salad.  Drink now.  About $20.

-  July 25, 2015

Pinyolet Selección 2010 (Montsant).  Unfiltered.  Heavy on the cherry licorice and nail salon scents.  Very dense, with smoke, crushed rock, dark plum, mocha, and cherry liqueur notes.  Full-bodied, showing power and purity, and a sticky finish that echoes with dark fruit.  Kind of a monster (a good one).  Made from 80% Garnacha and 20% Carignan.  Save this for a winter stew.  Drink now through 2021.  About $20.

-  July 23, 2015

Altesino Rosso 2014 (Toscana).  Some wet leaf/forest floor notes on the nose, along with violets, vanilla, and smoke.  Very Sangiovese in profile, with that slightly bitter but ripe cherry note, with good acidity.  Very approachable and not at all flabby.  Made from 80% Sangiovese, plus Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Drink now through 2017.  About $18.

-  July 21, 2015

Paul Jaboulet Aîne Côtes du Rhône Blanc Parallèle 45 2013.  Made from 50% Grenache, 20% Marsanne, 20% Viognier, and 10% Bourboulenc.  Reminiscent of stone fruits, lemon zest, oranges, wax, and honeysuckle, with great acidity to keep it going.  Easy texture.  A great summer value for seafood. Drink now.  About $11.

-  July 19, 2015

Cascina Bongiovanni Arneis 2012 (Langhe).  Starts with a creamy note, but then moves to pear, herbs, lemon rind, quinine, and almonds.  Plenty of acidity, with definite limestone minerality on the finish.  Lean, but interesting.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  July 17, 2015

Champ de Rêves Pinot Noir 2011 (Anderson Valley).  Clear, bright ruby color.  On the ripe spectrum of Pinot Noir, with notions of cola, blueberry, anise, and a touch of tobacco on the finish.  Retains its freshness, with medium body and ripe tannins.  Good value here.  Drink now through 2018.  About $28.

-  July 15, 2015

Domaine du Père Caboche Rosé 2014 (Vin de Pays de Vaucluse).  Light red in color, like the inside of a watermelon, with a soapy, shy nose.  Solid acidity supports flavors of cranberry, raspberry, and light cherry.  Not complicated and easy, but nicely expressive and enjoyable.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  July 14, 2015

Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon Jack London 2006 (Sonoma Valley).  Seriously underrated by critics, this distinctive bottling by Kenwood is deep in color, with notes of cedar, black currant, dill, black cherry, and mocha.  Has considerable tannins for a wine of this age, with admirable freshness and great density.  Masculine, but with some fleshy dark fruit on the finish.  Needs air.  I've always been a fan of this one.  Great now, and will last another 5 years.  About $25.

-  July 11, 2015

Provam Varanda do Conde Vinho Verde 2013.  Made from 70% Alvarinho and 30% Trajadura, this features aromas of bright white grapefruit and river rocks.  Lemon, peach, and green apple flavors, with an easygoing and unchallenging character.  Great on a hot summer day with a seafood salad.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  July 6, 2015

Luigi Bosca Malbec Terroir Los Miradores 2012 (Uco Valley).  Extracted and inky, with scents of blackberry and charcoal, then hints of vanilla.  Dark and brooding, with a dense, powerful palate of dark plum, mocha, and some briary qualities.  Impressive!  Better in a year, and will last for about 10.  About $28.

-  July 5, 2015

Matua Sauvignon Blanc 2014 (Marlborough).  Not a shy nose, showing  a bright display of gooseberry, lime zest, white grapefruit, and celery.  More like tropical fruit in the mouth (green mango, passion fruit), with a very energetic character that keeps it mouthwatering.  Always a reliable value.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  July 4, 2015

Sacha Lichine Rosé Le Poussin 2014 (Vin de France).  Smells like raspberries, but also peaches, oranges, and red apple.  Relatively simple, but does what it does well, with solid fruit and energy.  Finishes with palate-cleansing acidity and a touch of pleasant bitterness.  Made from Cinsault, Grenache, and Syrah.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  July 3, 2015

Talbott Pinot Noir Kali Hart 2013 (Monterey).  Smokey, with bacon notes, but also lots of cherry cola, cranberry, and plenty of acidity.  Medium-bodied at most.  Easy drinking, uncomplicated, and a great value.  Drink now through 2018.  About $16.

-  July 2, 2015

Saget La Perirère Rosé La Petite Perrière 2014 (Vin de France).  Very light pink, with hints of salmon.  Smells French, with notions of ripe watermelon and dried herbs.  Slightly creamy texture on the attack, then turns to pink grapefruit, strawberries, and fresh herbs, with bright acidity.  Very fresh and inviting, and in need of a hot day.  Made of Pinot Noir from the Loire Valley.  Cheap.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  June 28, 2015

Vinas del Cenit Venta Mazzaron 2005 (Zamora).  A wine that has always exhibited pronounced smoke notes continues to do so after 10 years, this also shows a brick-like color and mature aromatics of leather and mushrooms.  Still some great cherry and plum fruit, however, along with good acidity and pleasurable finish that shows some dried herb notes.  If you still have one of these, drink up. 100% Tempranillo.  About $15.

-  June 24, 2015

Perseval-Farge Brut Champagne Premier Cru C. de Pinots Non-Vintage.  Lively and straw-colored.  Offers effusive aromas of honey, red apples, bread dough, and raspberries.  More like baked apple pie (with spices) on the palate, along with ginger and a hint of anise on the finish.  Lots of body, with moderate presence.  Drink now.  About $50.

-  June 21, 2015

Norton Privada 2015 (Mendoza).  Fantastic aromatics that include cherry liqueur, incense, and mocha.  Full-bodied, dense, and harmonious, with tons of cherry/plum fruit, but supported by fine, ripe tannins and impressive, plush texture.  Peppery, long finish.  Made from 40% Malbec, 30% Merlot, and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon.  Drink now through 2024.  About $26.

-  June 18, 2015

Maculan Pino & Toi 2013 (Veneto).  Floral and peachy, with a nicely bitter edge to the finish (like crushed herbs), this is an interesting blend of  60% Tai (aka Tocai Friulano), 25% Pinot Bianco, and 15% Pinot Grigio.  Straw notes on the nose, with moderate body and solid acidity.  Drink this before your meal to wake up your palate.  About $14.

-  June 14, 2015

Seghesio Zinfandel Cortina 2010 (Dry Creek Valley).  Port-like on the nose, with lots of black fruit, licorice, and pine notes.  Medium-bodied in the mouth, and very impressive for the detail and balance of fruit and acidity.  Great briary notes, then black pepper, finishing long.  Excellent elegant Zin.  Drink now through 2023. About $40.

-  June 13, 2015

Muga Rosado 2014 (Rioja).  Relatively pale for a rosé, and smelling like strawberries, parsley, and potatoes.  Focused and clean, with notions of peach, red berries, lemon and capers.  You're not going to like this if you're not into bright acidity.  Drink now.  About $14.

-  June 7, 2015

Montebro Crianza 2010 (Priorat).  Very Priorat in aroma, with notions of crushed rocks, cigar smoke, and black cherry.  Bright in acidity and not powerful, but is a very good beginner Priorat that's balanced and focused.  Made from 50% Grenache, 30% Carignan, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.  Drink now through 2018.  About $16.

-  June 2, 2015

Varnier Fanniere Champagne Brut Grand Cru Non-Vintage. This version was disgorged in May 2013, and has a very lively bead in the glass with a pretty straw color.  Offers a nose of very fresh white bread dough, plus red apple, lemons, and raspberries.  The attack is fantastic, with lots of fruit, amazing intensity, and great acidity, finishing long, with more red red apples, plus subtle spices, limestone, and almonds.  Outstanding.  A Terry Theise selection.  Great now, but this will last a few years.  About $60.

-  May 10, 2015

Nita 2009 (Priorat).  A touch rusty in color, with a bit of an earthy quality on the nose, but the palate has plenty of blueberry and blackberry notes.  Shows very good purity as well as a excellent sense of place, with that characteristic combination of detailed fruit but also slate, licorice, and mocha.  Finishes strong, with impressive presence.  An outstanding value for this appellation.  Ready now, but will last another four to six years.  About $25.

-  May 9, 2015

Peter Yealands Sauvignon Blanc 2014 (Marlborough).  Generous aromas of ripe pomelo, green guava, freshly mown lawn, and limes.  Very zesty and bright, with good intensity and mouthwatering acidity.  A step above your average New Zealand Sauv Blanc.  Bring on the grilled veggies.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  May 5, 2015

Juan Gil Monastrell 2012 (Jumilla).  Dark, inky nose with lots of smoke and black licorice, but the palate features brighter ripe red fruits (plus more smoke and spices).  Extracted, but balanced and moderately intense, finishing with a pleasantly bitter edge.  Well-made.  Drink now through 2019.  About $14.

-  May 4, 2015

Robert Craig Affinity 2010 (Napa Valley).  An impressive blend made from mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, plus small amounts of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec.  Dense, beautiful nose of cassis and black cherry, along with hints of vanilla and milk chocolate.  Full-bodied and harmonious, with deep fruit and ripe tannins that verge on muscular.  Outstanding now, though this will easily last for another 8 years.  About $50.

-  May 3, 2015

Domaine Houchart Rosé 2014 (Côtes de Provence).  On the pale side of rosé in color.  More herbal than previous years, but there's still solid strawberry and watermelon flavors, with pleasurable acidity and focus.  Take this bottle on a picnic.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  May 2, 2015

Boutari Moschofilero 2013 (Mantinia).  Very crisp and easy to enjoy, this offers notions of green pear, tart citrus, flowers, white peaches, and lemongrass.  Very zippy and fresh.  Drink this easygoing white sometime this summer.  About $13.

-  April 29, 2015

Mayu Pedro Ximenez 2013 (Elqui Valley).  This is a fairly unusual, small production wine from Chile, made from 100% Pedro Ximenez vines (a grape that is mostly known for being in Sherry), grown at high altitudes.  Smells like marcona almonds, limes, and latex gloves.  Has crackling acidity to support the white peach, sea salt, and white mushroom notes.  Nice minerality, and a clean finish.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  April 27, 2015

Two Hands Shiraz Bella's Garden 2005 (Barossa Valley).  Featuring a dense purple color, this gives up no hint that it's a ten year old wine, with plenty of freshness to the super-ripe fruit (blueberry/blackberry), vanilla, milk chocolate, and coffee notes.  Full-bodied and rich, but not tiring or overdone, with excellent depth and long in finish.  If this doesn't make the year's top 10 list, it will be a shock.  This is delicious now, but will certainly hold for another 5 years.  About $70.

-  April 26, 2015

Tintonegro Malbec 2012 (Uco Valley).  Made from grapes grown at 4,000 foot elevation, this is a steal for a Malbec of this exuberance, showing generous notes of blueberry, blackberry, smoke, dark plum, and coffee.  Full-bodied and well-balanced, with good length for the price.  Made for early drinking.  About $12.

-  April 25, 2015

Leyda Pinot Noir 2012 (Leyda Valley).  Pretty garnet color.  Suggestive of tobacco leaf, cola, and tea on the nose.  Very good density of flavor here, with focused dark and brighter fruits (cranberry), finishing with real definition and nice uplift.  Excellent value.  Drink now through 2018.  About $13.

-  April 20, 2015

Bodegas Volver Tarima Hill 2011 (La Mancha).  Very Monastrell, with its dark, brooding character, but also seems more approachable than the 2009 or 2010.  Full-bodied, with more red fruit and brightness than its predecessors, plus chocolate, smoke, and licorice.  Dense.  Still an amazing value.  Begs for meat.  Drink now through 2019.

-  April 19, 2015

Pierre Paillard Brut Champagne Grand Cru Non-Vintage.  Made from 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay from a Grand Cru vineyard in Bouzy, this shows really beautiful, enticing scents of white flowers, rambutan, and fresh bread dough.  Excellent persistence to the red berry, ginger, red apple, and candied orange rind flavors.  Gorgeous wine, and easily a candidate for the year's top 10 list.  Spends three and a half years on the lees.  This bottle was disgorged in late 2012, so if you have one, best to drink soon, it's at its peak.  About $50.

-  April 17, 2015

Aveleda Touriga Nacional Follies 2010 (Beiras).  Darkly scented, like ink and blackberries, plus some smoke. Full-bodied, with notable tannins and density, this is a bit unforgiving and tight initially, but given some air and food, it reveals itself with solid fruit and espresso notes.  Drink this inexpensive red within a few years.  About $12.

-  April 15, 2015

Neyers Syrah Old Lakeville Road 2010 (Sonoma Coast).  Lots of smoke and bacon fat notes, plus cassis, blue ball point pen, iodine, and blackberry.  Medium-bodied, dense in flavor, and impressive intensity.  Lasting, structured finish that includes spent tea leaves, anise, and cocoa powder.  Drink now through 2021.  About $25.

-  April 12, 2015

Cal Blanca 2011 (Toro).  Made from 100% Tempranillo and aged 6 months in French oak, this exhibits a smoke, charcoal, blueberry, and dark licorice dominated nose, followed by a palate that's well-balanced with blackberry and toasted oak notes. Solid tannins, but this is better off consumed between now and 2019.  Fantastic value.  About $15.

-  April 10, 2015

Chateau Montrose 2001 (Saint-Estèphe).  From a somewhat overlooked vintage comes this youthful looking, medium-bodied Saint-Estèphe. Offers notions of new leather, raw beef, campfire, graphite, prune, and black licorice.  With serious structure, length, and focus, this is not going to please everyone, but will make old school Bordeaux fans happy.  Drink now through 2025.  About $150.

-  April 6, 2015

Tikal Patriota 2012 (Mendoza).  Made from 60% Malbec and 40% Bonarda.  The feral qualities of the Bonarda show here, with notions of a hike in the forest, plus ripe red bell pepper, black cherries, flowers, fresh coffee, and bacon.  Medium to full-bodied, with decent structure, but also made in a modern style, bordering on plush.  Drink now through 2019.  About $20.

-  April 5, 2015

Calma Rioja 2010.  Fresh, inviting nose that includes boysenberry, dark spices, and hints of earth.  Medium-bodied, with admirable density and good energy, showing dark cherry and mocha notes.  Slightly leathery finish.  Made from 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano.  Drink now through 2018.  About $16.

-  April 4, 2015

Talley Vineyards Chardonnay Bishop's Peak 2013 (San Luis Obisbo County).  Very clear, with a hint of green, showing scents of freshly mown grass, Camembert cheese, and lime juice.  With zippy acidity and lots of green apple/citrus notes, this has modest proportions and a crisp character for early drinking.  About $15.

-  April 3, 2015

Charles Smith Syrah Boom Boom! 2013 (Columbia Valley).  A fantastic value, this offers a generous nose of wild berries, herbs, flowers, and vanilla.  Delicious, with relatively soft texture, but supportive acidity, having flavors of black pepper, blackberries, subtle smoke, and crème brulee.  Really easy to like.  Drink now through 2019.  About $15.

-  April 2, 2015

Masi Campofiorin 2010 (Veronese).  Very expressive nose, featuring licorice, cherry, oregano, and cola notes.  Good texture, with noticeable acidity, like an Asian pear, but with dark flavors of bitter chocolate and espresso.  Medium-bodied, and lacking some mid-palate volume, but is still worth recommending.  Drink now through 2018.  About $15.

-  March 27, 2015

Tommasi Poggio Al Tufo Rompicollo 2012 (Toscana).  A bit shy on the nose, but there are lots of freshly brewed coffee notes on the palate, along with bright cherry, green tobacco, and cola flavors.  Very approachable, finishing with some notable, welcome acidity.  Drink now through 2018.  About $17.

-  March 23, 2015

Banshee Rosé 2015 (Sonoma County).  Made from 100% Pinot Noir, this is a pale rosé, offering a fresh, vibrant nose of herbs, citrus, raspberries, and strawberries.  Good depth, fruit, and energy on the palate, ending almost juicy.  Nicely done.  Drink now.  About $16.

-  March 22, 2015

Gran Passione Rosso 2013 (Veneto).  Smells juicy, but also a bit medicinal.  Plenty of cherry notes here, plus new leather, cigar tobacco, and licorice.  Medium to full-bodied, ending with good acidity.  Made using the apassimento method.  A bargain.  Drink now through 2018.  About $12.

-  March 21, 2015

Terra Noble Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva 2011 (Colchagua Valley).  Very Cabernet , with an effusive nose of cassis, blackberry, black cherry, vanilla, and hints of spice.  Great balance and structure, and while not especially voluminous or long, has real harmony and character, and a reasonable price.  Drink now through 2019.  About $16.

-  March 20, 2015

Gruet Blanc de Noirs Non-Vintage (New Mexico).  Golden in color, and offering scents/flavors of ripe red apples, orange preserves, ginger, toffee, and red grapefruit.  Great energy and presence, with an impressive finish for the price.  An astonishing value in a domestic bubbly, and one that's extremely consistent.  Drink now.  About $15.

-  March 16, 2015

Charles Smith Cabernet Sauvignon Chateau Smith 2012 (Columbia Valley).  Hints of cedar and blackberries on the nose.  Medium-bodied, with good density to the dark plum and cassis flavors.  Relatively restrained, but is nicely balanced, and ends with an energetic but dark flourish.  A solid value.  About $20.

-  March 15, 2015

Loft Sauvignon Blanc 2013 (North Coast).  Very clear in the glass, this is an great varietally correct value presented in a bag-in-a-box format.  Zippy lime, grass, fresh herb, and green apple notes that are surprisingly tasty and vibrant for wine that works out to less than $6 a bottle.  Uncomplicated, but great for summer sipping.  Drink now.  About $23 per 3 liter box.

-  March 14, 2015

Herdade do Esporão Dua Castas 2010 (Alentejano).  Made from Gouveio and Verdelho, this exhibits a golden yellow color, with aromas of Vaseline, sage, and pear.  Good acidity and focus, with a savory, moderately expressive palate of pickled ginger, tangerine, and fennel.  Interesting.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  March 8, 2015

Numanthia-Termes Termes 2011 (Toro).  A bit shy on the nose, with hints of anise, but exhibits fantastic density of flavor, with notions of smoke, very dark ripe fruit (wild berries mostly) and espresso. Excellent presence, with medium to full body, and some notable structure.  Not a cheap wine, but delivers impressive focus for the price.  Drink now through 2013.  About $26.

-  March 6, 2015

Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 40th Anniversary 2012 (Napa Valley).  Opaque deep ruby, with a rich nose of cassis, dark cherry, licorice, and subtle smoke.  Full-bodied and dripping with fruit.  Gorgeous, opulent texture.  Extravagantly rich, with more cherry and cassis, but balanced and long.  Fantastic right now, but with so much stuffing, this will easily last for another 15 or more years.  Don't miss this.  About $65.

-  February 29, 2015

Bodegas Borsao Garnacha Tres Picos 2012 (Campo de Borja).  With fantastic depth, this screams Grenache, with tons of cherry liqueur, smoke, and blueberry flavors.  Voluptuous texture, great purity, and nicely matched acidity (but not a lot of tannin).  A steal.  Drink now through 2019.  About $16.

-  February 28, 2015

Bodegas Ordoñez Nisia Old Vines 2013 (Rueda).  Made from 100% Verdejo, this offers expressive notes of lemon bar, melon, pear, and oranges.  Medium body, with good richness, but also not heavy, with a bright finish.  Tasty!  Drink now.  About $15.

-  February 22, 2015

Alto Moncayo Veraton 2012 (Campo de Borja).  Made from 100% Garnacha and weighing in at 15.5% alcohol, this is a stunner of a wine, displaying a fantastic perfume of black plums, incense, summer flowers, crushed blackberries, and licorice.  Full-bodied, with excellent purity and focus, it coats the palate with dark fruit, mocha, and anise notes.  Delicious, and modern in style.  Drink now through 2025.  About $28.

-  February 21, 2015

Domenico Clerico Barbera d'Alba Trevigne 2012.  On the blue spectrum of red in color.  Shows really good depth and harmony, with a dark profile of charred wood, forest, wild berry, smoke, and leather.  With solid acidity and ripe tannins, this is great with pasta Bolognese.  Drink now through 2019.  About $25.

-  February 16, 2015

Tenuta Frescobaldi di Castiglioni 2001 (Toscana).  Made from 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Sangiovese, this is a well-made blend featuring very good balance to the ripe dark fruit and brighter tart notes.  Hints of smoke and coffee.  Approachable, with nice proportions.  Drink now through 2019.  About $20.

-  February 15, 2015

Tohu Sauvignon Blanc 2013 (Marlborough).  Very tropical in character, with lots of guava, passion fruit, mango, and red grapefruit notes.  Juicy, with good texture, but stays grounded with herbal/grassy undertones and solid acidity.  Drink now.  About $14.

-  February 10, 2015

Bodegas Ordoñez Zerran 2012 (Montsant).  Youthful and exuberant, with notions of squashed purple grapes, smoke, chorizo, plums, coffee, and both red and black licorice.  Shows zesty acidity.  Doesn't come off as strong as the 2011, but is still worthwhile.  Made from 50% Garnacha, 40% Mazuelo, and 10% Syrah.  About $15.

-  February 8, 2015

Paul Jourdan Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Papale 2009.  The nose is reminiscent of incense and licorice, with the palate being similarly dark.  Takes a lot of time to reveal its charms.  A day later, this offers characteristic dark cherry and seaweed notes, with good depth.  Makes you pay attention.  Decant!  Drink now through 2020. About $36.

-  February 4, 2015

Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir 2012 (Russian River Valley).  Aromas of bright cherry, cola, incense, and Tootsie Roll, with a beautiful texture and lots of flavor.  Exhibits excellent purity and great presence on the palate.  Not super-long in finish, but is otherwise a real beauty.  Drink now through 2020.  About $50.

-  February 2, 2015

Gil Family Estates BlueGray 2011 (Priorat).  Made from 45% Garnacha, 30% Mazuelo, and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, this offers scents of smoke, spices, and licorice.  Classically Priorat, with lots of slate, dark cherry, anise, and burning ember notes.  With solid acidity and modest structure, this is a good example of a value Priorat.  Drink now through 2019.  About $20.

-  January 31, 2015

St. Supéry Cabernet Sauvignon Limited Edition 2005 (Rutherford).  Tight nose, hinting at coffee, violets, and cassis.  Dark, briary fruit in the mouth, with notions of tobacco and loam.  Silky, beautiful texture, with no hard edges.  Finishes a bit short, but is definitely well-made.  Drink now through 2018.  About $30.

-  January 29, 2015

Bodegas Shaya Shaya 2012 (Rueda).  Made from 100% Verdejo, this has a nose reminiscent of white peaches, minerals/slate, and honeysuckle.  More honey on the palate, along with green herbs and red apples.  Moderately full in body, with excellent balance and admirable length, this is a very good value.  Drink now.  About $15.

-  January 16, 2015

Calista Pinot Noir The Coast Range 2012 (Sonoma, Mendocino, Monterey).  Really interesting nose, suggestive of brown sugar, dark spices, cherry, and green tobacco.  Peppery attack, with good richness and body, lingering with lots of dark berry flavors, dried herbs, and mocha.  Keeps your interest, with welcome complexity and presence for the price.  Drink now through 2021.  About $20.

-  January 10, 2015

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 (Napa Valley).  Cloves, mint, eucalyptus, bright berry, and tobacco aromas.  Medium-bodied, kind of green and hesitant on the attack, but then builds to reveal great focused red/black fruit.  A satisfying and elegant finish that forces a smile.  Not as rich or complete as usual for this producer (a result of the vintage), but still shows the outstanding quality of the source.  Great now, but will last for 10 years.  About $50.

-  January 7, 2015

Locations F-2 (France).  Dusty nose initially, then dark spices, tobacco, and mint.  Ripe and lithe in the mouth, featuring flavors of cassis, blueberry, mocha, and licorice.  Medium-bodied, with cranberry notes on the finish.  Very good, though doesn't seem as well-rounded as last year's version.  Drink now through 2018.  About $17.

-  January 5, 2015

Bodegas Atalaya Laya Old Vines 2013 (Almansa).  Made from 70% Garnacha Tinorera and 30% Monastrell, this is dark in color as well as aroma, reminiscent of ink, smoldering fire, pine needles, iodine, and black licorice.  Dark fruit in the mouth, with good focus and energy, this is a very well-made, high-value bottling.  Drink now through 2019.  About $10.

-  January 4, 2015

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2012 (Etna Rosso).  Dark garnet, with a touch of rust in color.  The nose is dense and floral at the same time, with notions of crushed rocks, pine needles, cherries, iron, and fall leaves.  More cherry on the palate, plus red plums and subtle dried herb notes.  Really interesting.  An astonishing value, this finishes long and intriguing.  Drink now through 2021.  About $18.

-  January 1, 2015

David recommended lots of wine in 2014, but the year will be remembered most notably because of the quality of Champagnes that flowed into our flutes.  Something about this year's batches of bubbly really stood out from the rest of the world's wines, and they dominate the list by far.  For value, one shouldn't miss the Portuguese red added as an honorable mention.

#1  -  Moët & Chandon Brut Champagne Dom Perignon 2000

#2  -  Egly-Ouriet Champagne Brut Tradition Grand Cru Non-Vintage

#3  -  Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon Wight Vineyard 2008 (Napa Valley)

#4  -  Jean Lallement Champagne Brut Tradition Non-vintage

#5  -  Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé Champagne Non-vintage

#6  -  Guy Larmandier Brut Champagne Blanc de Blancs Cramant Grand Cru Non-vintage

#7  -  Le Mesnil Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Non-Vintage

#8  -  Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2009 (Napa Valley)

#9  -  Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Longitude Non-vintage

#10  -  Mitolo Shiraz G.A.M. 2004 (McLaren Vale)

Honorable mentions:

Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs 2007 (North Coast)

Crasto Superior 2011 (Douro)


-  December 31, 2014

Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs 2007 (North Coast).  Very expressive, with loads of brioche dough on the nose, along with almonds, flowers, and ripe lemons.  Lively, with great intensity and focus, lingering with notions of pear and more citrus.  Impressive showing.  Excellent now, but will be fine for a few more years.  About $32.

-  December 27, 2014

Raats Chenin Blanc Origninal 2012 (Coastal Region).  Reminiscent of river rocks on the nose, plus stone fruits (mostly white peach), limes, and orange rind.  Dry, food friendly, with great acidity.  Sees no oak.  Try with a hearty salad.  Drink now through 2016.  About $11.

-  December 26, 2014

Villa Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2010.  This is the real thing when it comes to Chianti Classico, showing great fragrance and purity to the tart cherry fruit, plus overall harmony.  Leather, tobacco, and dark coffee notes, with good presence and density.  Nice touch of bitterness on the finish.  Not a forward, international style.  Needs air.  Drink now through 2023.  About $30.

-  December 25, 2014

Mussel Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2013 (Marlborough).  Very New Zealand, with classic aromas and flavors of red grapefruit, fresh cut grass, limes, mango, and fresh herbs.  Vibrant, zesty, and thirst quenching, this begs for a warm summer day and a seafood salad.  Drink now through 2016.  About $10.

-  December 24, 2014

Domaine Chandon Etoile Rosé Non-Vintage (North Coast).  Bright tangerine/pink color, with a nose of cranberries and flowers.  Not super-lively in bubbles, but has a rich mid-palate of red fruit, and ends with some spiciness and great acidity.  Made from 49% Chardonay, 45% Pinot Noir, and 6% Pinot Meunier.  Drink now through 2017.  About $28.

-  December 22, 2014

Erath Pinot Gris 2013 (Oregon).  Mostly white peach on the nose, plus some tropical fruit and freshly cut herbs.  Great texture, admirable purity and some richness, offering more peaches in the mouth, this is a solid value example of this variety, staying balanced and vibrant.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  December 21, 2014

Yalumba Viognier Y Series 2013 (South Australia).  Petroleum on the nose initially, then mango, honeysuckle, and lime.  Lychee, orange marmalade, and a hint of mint in the mouth.  Almost full-bodied, with supportive acidity, this pairs well with richer foods.  Not an aperitif wine.  Drink now through 2017.  About $12.

-  December 20, 2014

Gloria Ferrer Va de Vi Ultra Cuvee Non-Vintage (Sonoma County).  Yellow in color, with scents of lemon curd, fennel seeds, oil, and mushrooms.  Nice texture, showing tangerine and braeburn apple flavors, with a slightly compressed finish that shows a hint of sugar.  Not a contemplative bubbly, but it stays balanced and is easy to enjoy.  Drink now.  About $20.

-  December 16, 2014

Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard 2011 (Columbia Valley).  Really enjoyable flavors of red plums and cherry here, plus notions of tobacco, mocha, smoke, cola, and vanilla.  Beautiful texture, this is bright and not super-ripe.  With submerged tannins, it's the acidity that keeps this lively, fresh, and long.  Clearly well-made, this is excellent now, but will last for another 5-6 years.  About $28.

-  December 14, 2014

Avelada Branco 2012 (Douro).  Zesty key lime qualities, plus notions of pear, crushed herbs, and tropical fruit.  Nice acidity, with a moderate finish, this is easy to enjoy, ending with a mineral note.  Cheap!  Drink now.  About $9.

-  December 13, 2014

Grut Blanc de Blancs 25th Anniversary Non-Vintage (New Mexico).  Lighter in color and flavor than both the regular brut and blanc de noirs by this producer, with notions of Meyer lemon and green pear.  Shows good focus and energy.  Very refreshing.  Drink now.  About $15.

-  December 4, 2014

Franck Massard Humilitat 2009 (Priorat).  Smoke, burning ember, and smoldering dried herbs (sage/thyme) on the nose.  Dark cherry fruit, rocky mid-palate.  Structured and dense, ending with a strong licorice note.  Made from half Carinena and and half Garnacha.  Drink now through 2019.  About $30.

-  December 1, 2014

Mitolo Shiraz G.A.M. 2004 (McLaren Vale).  Opaque purple/red to the rim, this shows no signs of slowing down at 10 years of age.  Fantastic purity, with scents and flavors of deep blackberry, blueberry, vanilla, smoke, charcoal, licorice, and coffee.  Flat out rich, but also stays refined.  Very full-bodied, creamy palate, with a long, satisfying finish.  Not at all heavy or tiring.  Outstanding, with a long life ahead.  Drink now through 2025.  About $55.

-  November 30, 2014

Herdade do Esporao Vinha da Defesa Branco 2010 (Alentejano).  Golden light straw color, with herbal scents of basil/parsley, plus notions of cream, gasoline, and pear.  Surprising amount of body, this isn't delicate, having flavors of almond, fresh herbs, bitter citrus, and apple.  Really interesting, with nice acidity.  Made from 35% Antao Vaz, 35% Arinto, and 30% Roupeiro.  Drink now through 2016.  About $12.

-  November 24, 2014

Cuvelier Los Andes Collección 2010 (Mendoza).  A modern-style blend of 57% Malbec, 20% Merlot, 11% Syrah, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 4% Petit Verdot, this offers a dark nose of burning ember, boysenberry, and coffee.  Dense and moderately powerful, with lots of black fruit, toasted oak, and tobacco notes.  Well-made, with integrated tannin and acidity.  Great value here.  Drink now through 2018.  About $18.

-  November 23, 2014

Columbia Crest Cabernet Sauvignon H3 2012 (Horse Heaven Hills).   Impressive density of flavor here, with concentrated dark plum, mocha, black pepper, blackberry, and dairy notes.  Focused, with acidity for structure, ending with a touch of smoke and pleasant bitterness.  Excellent value.  Drink now through 2018.  About $15.

-  November 22, 2014

Bouchard Ainé & Fils Bourgogne 2012.  Rusty garnet color.  Like dark mushrooms and forest floor on the nose, plus bright cherries.  The palate exhibits notions of tobacco, leather, and elk jerky.  Fresh, with good acidity.  Solid, entry-level red Burgundy.  Drink now through 2017.  About $15.

-  November 17, 2014

Los Vascos Carmenere Grande Reserve 2012 (Colchagua Valley).  Deep color.  Blackberries and cherries on the nose, plus leather, smoke, and undergrowth notes.  Good depth here (especially with aeration), with solid fruit and notable acidity.  Old world in style.  Made for early drinking, but will last for a few years.  About $11.

-  November 16, 2014

Travaglini Gattinara 2008.  Rusty brown color, with scents of dust, black cherry, tar, cocoa powder, and roses.  Medium-bodied, with good acidity and focus.  Not Barolo, but is very Nebbiolo in profile.  Drink now through 2019.  About $32.

-  November 7, 2014

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon Wight Vineyard 2008 (Napa Valley).  Rich nose, with abundant coffee, briary fruit, and smoke notes.  More coffee on the palate, along with loads of dark chocolate, cassis, black plum, and ink flavors.  Killer, mouth-coating texture, with a 40+ second finish.  Seamless and undeniably outstanding.  A conversation stopper.  With air, the attack really blossoms.  Will be better in 2-3 years, and will easily last for 15 or more years.  About $90.

-  November 6, 2014

Masciarelli Rosé Villa Gemma 2013 (Cerasuolo D'Abruzzo).  Electric pink color that looks more like a really light red wine, with fun raspberry/cherry/citrus qualities, with supportive acidity.  Reminds me of an easygoing, ripe, enjoyable Beaujolais.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  November 5, 2014

Bodegas y Vinedos Fernandez Rivera Dehesa La Granja 2006 (Castilla y Leon).  Unfiltered, made from 100% Tempranillo, and spends 2 years in new American oak, this presents with a floral nose that also includes bright cherry and ink.  Fresh, elegant, with plenty of cherry fruit flavors and a medicinal/cough syrup note (in a good way).  The 15% alcohol is unnoticeable.  Very enjoyable and expressive.  Drink now through 2018.  About $18.

-  November 4, 2014

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 (Knights Valley).  Plump and forward, with black cherry, pure cassis, and mocha notes.  Medium-bodied, with nice length and balance.  Not quite as strong as most years, but is a very good example of Cabernet for early drinking.  About $24.

-  November 3, 2014

Lucien Albrecht Cremant d'Alsace Brut Rosé Non-Vintage.  Nicely done, with pure, delicate strawberry/raspberry notes, with fine acidity, very good balance, and hints of chalk.  Some orange rind flavors on the finish.  Made from 100% Pinot Noir.  Drink now.  About $16.

-  November 2, 2014

Cristia Cotes du Rhone Vieilles Vignes Les Garrigues 2012.  Like cherry liqueur on the nose, and tastes like a hedonistic bowl of crushed raspberry/cherry fruit with hints of melted chocolate, bacon, iodine and smoke.  Plush texture.  Delicious.  Made from 100% old vine Grenache, this doesn't have tons of structure, but will be a crowd-pleaser for another four years.  15% alcohol.  About $18.

-  November 1, 2014

Bodegas Caro Amancaya Gran Reserva 2011 (Mendoza).  Made from 70% Malbec and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 15% alcohol, this is dark aromatically, with notions of graphite, smoke, vanilla, and violets.  Extracted, with lots of oak, but there also great acidity and fruit (boysenberry, cola).  Ends with some creamy notes.  Drink now through 2018.  About $18.

-  October 31, 2014

Clos Saint Jean Chateâuneuf du Pape Vielles Vignes 2010.  Unfiltered.  Closed right now on the nose, but the palate is dense, youthful, and gutsy.  Notions of burning ember, seaweed, cherry liqueur, anise, and blackberry.  Masculine and intense.  Don't drink this now -- wait at least 3 years.  Will last for 15 or more years.  About $55.

-  October 30, 2014

Castelo della Sala Bramito del Cervo 2013 (Umbria).  Made by the Antinori group, this exhibits excellent purity and focus, with notes of green apple, lemon balm, and orange rind.  Great, mouthwatering acidity and outstanding purity.  Not a all heavy.  Elegant and very enjoyable .  Drink now through 2017.  About $20.

-  October 29, 2014

Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs Non-Vintage (Carneros).  Pretty apricot color.  Aromas of red flowers and raspberries, with expert balance to the citrus and red fruit flavors, showing bright acidity.  Not a much nuance here, but its exuberance makes up for it.  Drink now.  About $16.

-  October 28, 2014

Domaine de la Louvetrie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2012.  Made from organic grapes, this is very clean and fresh, with pure minerals on the nose.  The palate is almost juicy, with notions of ripe pear, melons, and tangerine.  Zippy and inviting, this is one of the best bottles of Muscadet this year.  Drink now.  About $14.

-  October 27, 2014

Crasto Superior 2011 (Douro).  Inky dark purple color, with scents of coffee, meat, and flowers.  Very well-balanced and long, this is dark and focused, with deep black fruit, licorice, smoke, and leather notes.  Needs air, so pour this one and set it aside for at least two hours.  Impressive value from a great vintage in the Douro.  Ready now, but will be better in a year or two, and will last for 15 years.  About $23.

-  October 26, 2014

Edmeades Zinfandel 2012 (Mendocino County).  Dusty aromatics initially, turning to ripe plums, cherry, and dark spice.  Plump and juicy, with lots of blue/black fruit, plus tobacco and dark chocolate.  Medium to full-bodied.  Needs more of a finish and acidity, but is otherwise nicely done.  Drink now through 2016.  About $16.

-  October 21, 2014

La Spinetta Il Rosé di Casanova 2013 (Toscana).  Pale, barely a rosé in color.  Notes of black cherry, fresh herbs, cranberry, and orange rind.  Not all that complex, but is zippy and refreshing, in the way that would pair with almost any appetizer.  Drink now.  About $14.

-  October 20, 2014

Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (Sonoma County).  Bright and very aromatic, featuring scents of honey, melon, ripe citrus (blood orange?), and fresh herbs.  Medium-bodied, with lots of ripe pear, melon, lavender, and citrus notes.  Plenty of flavor here, yet manages to stay elegant.  Drink now through 2017.  About $16.

-  October 19, 2014

Indaba Chenin Blanc 2013 (Western Cape).  Very stony nose, like river rocks or limestone.  Good ripeness and fresh acidity, with flavors of white peach, flowers, lemongrass, and fresh herbs.  Nice balance for this price.  Drink now.  About $9.

-  October 17, 2014

Chateau Montrose 2002 (Saint Estephe).  From a lesser vintage in Bordeaux comes this savory, extracted effort from a classic producer.  Notes of oxidized iron, new leather, lavender, blackberry, and graphite on a medium-bodied frame.  With good intensity and presence, this appears to not have enough fruit for the long haul, so drink this sooner than later, with a juicy steak.  About $75?

-  October 14, 2014

Marchesi de Frescobaldi Chianti Rufina Nipozzano Riserva 2010.  This is a solid Chianti, with very good balance and focus to the cherry, tobacco, leather, and blueberry notes.  Has a nicely bitter edge to it.  Medium-bodied, and while not exciting, is a well-made effort.  Drink now through 2018.  About $19.

-  October 13, 2014

Gruet Brut Rosé Non-vintage (New Mexico).  Tasty, with loads of red berry flavors, plus hints of spice, red flowers, orange peel, and apples.  Bright acidity.  Finishes a bit short, but that's OK at this price.  Drink now.  About $15.

-  October 12, 2014

Ridge Geyserville 2011 (Sonoma County).  Smoke, licorice, and tobacco are evident on the nose.  Starts off slow, but then builds to reveal excellent depth, with notions of dark fruit, mocha, anise, meat, and herbs.  Lengthy, focused finish.  Not the best Geyserville, but still very good.  Made from 78% Zinfandel, 16% Carignane, 4% Petite Sirah, 1% Alicante Bouschet, and 1% Mataro.  Drink now through 2018.  About $36.

-  October 6, 2014

Tres Ojos Garnacha Old Vines 2011 (Calatayud).  Made from 40 year old vines, this is youthful and exuberant, featuring zippy cherry and plum fruit, with lots of peppery spice and leather.  Medium-bodied, this could use more of a finish, but make sure you look at the price before judging too much.  Drink now through 2016.  About $9.

-  October 5, 2014

Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Longitude Non-vintage.  Clear and straw-colored, with a lively bead, this offers a fantastic array of aromas that includes rye bread, red apples, fall spices, and blood orange.  Baked apple notes on the palate, plus lemon curd and roasted nuts.  Excellent texture and length.  From premier cru vineyards.  Great now, but will continue to improve for a year or two.  About $65.

-  October 4, 2014

Columbia Crest Gold Limited Edition 2012 (Columbia Valley).  A combination of ripe red bell pepper, dark berries, and toasty oak are evident on this relatively small, unique bottling from the giant Columbia Crest production.  Word is that this is made from their best barrels of Cabernet Franc.  Exhibiting great balance, nice fruit and texture, this is an outstanding value for near-term drinking.  About $10.

-  September 22, 2014

Domaine Pontifical Châteauneuf du Pape 2010.  Lots of ripe cherry notes on the nose, plus dried herb, seaweed, plums, freshly brewed coffee, and camp smoke.  Fleshy start, with good density, showing iron, black fruit, graphite, and black pepper notes.  Drink now through 2020.  About $40.

-  September 20, 2014

Adega de Borba Montes Claros White 2011 (Alentejo).  Very fresh and herbal (chive/basil), and nicely balanced, this is an excellent pairing with whatever shellfish you're about to eat.  Bright, with a mineral finish.  Made from 30% Antão Vaz, 30% Arinto, 30% Roupeiro, and 10% Alvarinho.  Drink now.

-  September 11, 2014

Schramsberg Brut Rosé Mirabelle Non-vintage (North Coast).  Copper/peach in color, with very appealing scents of strawberries, yellow plums, apple, orange rind, and bread dough.  Lots of wheat biscuit notes in the mouth to go with the fresh/vibrant berry notes.  Fantastic length, value, and verve.  Drink now through 2017.  About $24.

-  September 10, 2014

Casey Flat Ranch Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (Capay Valley).  From 2,000 foot elevation vineyards comes this well-made white from a less than common appellation.  Notions of honeysuckle, melon, grass, meyer lemon, and slate.  Really nicely balanced, with great acidity, pleasing texture, and moderate length.  Drink now.  About $18.

-  September 7, 2014

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 2009 (Napa Valley).  Once again, Beringer's top-of-the-line Cabernet shows its pedigree, coming from five of their best of their vineyard holdings.  The wine exhibits phenomenal purity, excellent presence, and a gorgeous, silky texture.  Notes of cassis, black cherry, mint, burning ember, and coffee.  Simply outstanding, with impeccable balance and great length.  Spends 17 months in French oak.  Delicious now, but will last for another 10 years.  About $120.

-  September 6, 2014

DFJ Vinhos Portada Winemaker's Selection 2011 (Lisboa).  Here at davidjohnhansen.com, we're trying to taste more Portuguese wines, and in that effort comes this pleasing, light-bodied, crisp white from vineyards near Lisbon.  Straw-colored, with notes of lemons, minerals, petroleum, and limes.  Nice texture.  Great with oysters.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  September 3, 2014

Domaine Dyckerhoff Reuilly 2012.  Very clear.  Some funk/cottage cheese initially, but that burns off to reveal scents of freshly mown lawn, minerals, white grapefruit, and limes.  Very refreshing and bright, this makes for effortless sipping.  Drink now.  About $14.

-  September 2, 2014

Ceretto Barbaresco Asij 2006.  Not dark in color, ruby with a hint of brown.  Classic Nebbiolo notes of cherry, road tar, dark tobacco, and iron.  Mid-weight, with an approachable texture, this is easy to like, and is a good value for the appellation.  Drink this while your hefty, structured Barolos are aging.  Drink now through 2017.  About $45.

-  September 1, 2014

Bodegas Volver Tempranillo Paso A Paso 2012 (Castilla).  Youthful, grapey, and exuberant, with easy cherry flavors and approachable texture.  Fleshy, and ripe, this is made for immediate consumption.  About $10.

-  August 31, 2014

Finca Villacreces Pruno 2010 (Ribera del Duero).  Dark nose, showing scorched earth and licorice qualities.  Dense in the mouth, with excellent intensity, great length and structure.  Smoke, dark cherry, plum, and mocha notes.  This needs lots of air if you're going to drink it now, or wait a couple of years, and will last another 10.  About $18.

-  August 30, 2014

Jean Lallement Champagne Brut Tradition Non-vintage.  From Grand Cru vineyards in the Montagne de Reims comes this outstanding blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonanay.  Seductively perfumed and complex nose of honey, caramel, spices, ginger, mushrooms, and butterscotch.  Exotic in the mouth, with almost bold flavor, featuring candied orange, apple, oyster shell, and brioche notes.  Lively acidity, outstanding balance and length.  Compelling.  Disgorged in May 2013.  Drink now through 2018.  About $50.

-  August 28, 2014

Locations E-2 (Spain).  This is the second version of Dave Phinney's value Spanish blend of grape varieties and appellations, and though it doesn't seem as intense as the last version, it does show excellent purity, with loads of blueberry, seaweed, and smoke scents.  Rich, plush texture showing flavors of coffee grounds, cherry, and blueberry fruits. Full-bodied, dense, but without a ton of tannin, so this should be consumed within the next couple of years.  About $17.

-  August 25, 2014

Guy Larmandier Brut Champagne Blanc de Blancs Cramant Grand Cru Non-vintage.  Really jumps out of the glass with scents of lemon curd, yeasty bread dough, and hard candies.  Refined and intense at the same time, with fantastic acidity and gorgeous length that is reminiscent of red berries and white grapefruit. Outstanding.  Drink now through 2016. 

-  August 24, 2014

Stéphane et Vincent Perraud Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie Sélection des Cognettes 2012.  Yellow, with tons of minerals and salt air on the nose, then some white grapefruit notes.  Zippy, like a fresh lemon sorbet, finishing with a little bit of richness.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  August 23, 2014

Bodegas Tarón Rosado Rioja 2013.  Made from 50% Viura and 50% Garnacha, this is watermelon colored, with notions of that fruit on the nose, plus flowers, celery, and raspberries.  Refreshing, herbal, and clean, finishing with a slightly bitter (but pleasant) note.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  August 22, 2014

Marques de Caceres Verdejo 2013 (Rueda).  A hint of green to the color.  Notes of white peach, fresh parsley/basil, apple, and minerals.  Easygoing texture and excellent freshness, finishing with a hint of almond.  Bright!  Drink now.  About $10.

-  August 21, 2014

Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé Champagne Non-vintage.  The color is a cross between bright watermelon and a shiny copper penny.  Mostly raspberries on the nose, along with notions of yeast, honey, peaches, toast, and flowers.  Extremely elegant and pretty, fantastic precision and focus.  Lots of fruit (currants/raspberries), but is balanced by fresh acidity and a lithe texture.  Chalk on the long finish.  Excellent.  Drink now.  About $65.

-  August 12, 2014

Saint Peyre Picpoul de Pinet 2013 (Coteaux du Languedoc).  Very clear with a hint of green to the light yellow, and offering scents of lime zest, white flowers, onion skin.  Zippy palate showing mostly citrus and pear notes that are very approachable.  A bargain for summer sipping.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  August 4, 2014

Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2012.  Energetic nose of lemon rind and white flowers.  Crackling acidity, with oyster shell flavors and hints of apple.  Shows some real character, plus a lively finish.  Very enjoyable.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  August 3, 2014

Domaine Lafage Côte Est 2012 (Côtes Catalanes).  Aromas of lemongrass, fresh herbs, and lime zest, this has excellent acidity and freshness. The palate exhibits ripe melon, orange peel, and braeburn apple notes, with moderate length.  Made from 50% Grenache Blanc, 30% Chardonnay, and 20% Marsanne.  Outstanding value.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  August 2, 2014

Castello D'Alba Branco 2013 (Douro Superior).  Very fresh and zippy, with subtle notes of apricot, salty sea air, green apples, and limestone.  Very enjoyable with shellfish.  Made from Codega do Larinho, Rabigato, and Viosinho grapes.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  July 30, 2014

Bodega Norton Malbec Reserva 2011 (Mendoza).  There's a slight dusty/briary edge to the nose, but mostly it's about boysenberry fruit, charcoal, and some dark tobacco.  Ripe fruit in the mouth, with plenty of toasty oak and mocha notes.  Relatively soft and modern in style, but shows very good balance for near-term drinking.  About $16.

-  July 28, 2014

Charles & Charles Rosé 2013 (Columbia Valley).  An overt and fruity style of rosé, with tons of cherry and raspberry flavors that are easy and welcoming.  Holds together with just enough adicity.  Made from 86% Syrah, 6% Cinsault, 4% Grenache, 2% Counoise, and 2% Mourvedre.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  July 27, 2014

Domain Laroche Chablis Saint Martin 2010.  Excellent value Chablis, with notions of green pear, honeysuckle, and limes on the nose.  The palate features a surprising blend of wet stone and tropical fruit (guava, mango), finishing lively and persistent.  Drink now through 2016.  About $20.

-  July 26, 2014

Château Pesquié Rosé 2013 (Ventoux).  Made from 50% Cinsault, 40% Grenache, and 10% Syrah, this exhibits a pale salmon/copper color.  Bright and vibrant, with great raspberry flavors, plus hints of citrus and herbs.  Doesn't seem as complex as previous vintages, but still definitely worth recommending.  Drink now.  About $14.

-  July 23, 2014

Rio Madre Rioja 2012.  Made from 100% Graciano, this is a rather unique bottling from Rioja, offering a nose of very ripe red bell pepper, plums, dark spices, and blackberries.  Medium-bodied, with solid acidity, finishing with a black pepper note.  Drink now through 2017.  About $12.

-  July 18, 2014

Domaine le Clos des Lumìeres Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2013.  Pretty, bright pink color, with a very feminine nose of red and white flowers, raspberries, and citrus.  Great balance and fruit (mostly cherry), plus nice lift and energy.  Tasty.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  July 17, 2014

Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2013 (Marlborough).  Energetic and very inviting, featuring lots of purity and focus.  Lime, gooseberry, passion fruit, bell pepper, and red grapefruit notes that are lively and continue through the moderate finish.  Definitely better than basic New Zealand Sauv Blanc.  Drink now.  About $16.

-  July 7, 2014

Château Grande Cassagne Rosé 2013 (Costières de Nîmes).  An earthy note to the aromatics, then citrus rind and raspberries.  Bordering on juicy, with lots of red berries, but also some pleasant bitterness on the finish to hold it together.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  July 6, 2014

Domaine de Fontsainte Gris de Gris 2013 (Corbières).  Bright pink color, and offering scents/flavors of watermelon, raspberries, fresh basil, red apples, and blood orange.  Shows good freshness, with some bitter herb notes on the finish.  Doesn't seem as great as previous vintages, but is still very well-made, complex, and better than many inexpensive French rosés.  Drink now.  About $16.

-  July 4, 2014

Muga Rioja Selección Especial 2009.  Deep nose of blueberries, cherries, licorice, and coffee. Displays excellent purity and focus, with a velvety texture.  Great attack of intense fruit, but then moves to dark earthy qualities.  Drink now through 2018.  About $50.

-  July 3, 2014

Le Mesnil Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Non-Vintage.  From Grand Cru vineyards in Le Mesnil-Sur-Orger comes this lively straw-colored beauty.  Like white grapefruit on the nose, with flowers, butterscotch, yeast and a lot of bread dough.  Very impressive in the mouth, offering excellent mouthfeel and volume, with tons more bread dough and a lingering spicy ginger/pomelo finish.  Drink now through 2017.  About $45.

-  June 31, 2014

De Morgenzon Rosé DMZ 2013 (South Africa).  A deeper color for rosé, but also very bright.  Dominated by watermelon and raspberry flavors, with a hint of lemon rind, plus juicy acidity.  Lighter in body than previous vintages, with more verve.  Made from Cabernet Sauvignon.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  June 30, 2014

Mas Doix Salanques 2009 (Priorat).  Dark ruby in color and showing great purity on the nose, with bright cherries, subtle licorice, and slate notes.  Dark in profile, offering allspice, black cherry, blackberry, and blueberry flavors, finishing with a different spicy note.  Medium-bodied, and very Priorat.  Drink now through 2018.  About $30.

-  June 29, 2014

Babich Sauvignon Blanc 2013 (Marlborough).  Very clear.  Effusive nose of green apple, guava, mango, and gooseberry.  Delicious, with tons of fruit on the mid-palate.  Not a lot of nuance, but this is boldly flavored and fun.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  June 28, 2014

Adega de Borba Tinto Premium 2011 (Alentejo).  Made from 50% Trincadera, 30% Touriga Nacional, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Alicante Bouschet.  Dense purple color, and very old world, with sweet campfire smoke, coffee, blue ink, and dark fruit on the nose.  Medium-bodied, masculine, and very dark in flavor but has plenty of acidity for lift.  Kind of like a really gutsy Cotes du Rhone.  Drink now through 2019.  About $15.

-  June 24, 2014

Moët & Chandon Brut Champagne Dom Perignon 2000.  Scents of mushrooms, straw, baked apple tart, macadamia nut, and red berries are all evident on this surprisingly rich version of Dom.  Excellent voluminous mid-palate of deep pear and ripe cheese intensity.  Hints of butterscotch, orange rind, toast, and dark spices on the long, impressive finish.  Mature, but will hold for a few more years.  About $150.

-  June 24, 2014

Fèlsina Pepestrino 2012 (Toscana).  Fresh, inviting grassy nose, with hints of thyme and lemon rind.  Subtle, with blanched almond, limestone, and green herb flavors.  Made from mostly Trebbiano, plus Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc.  Pair with grilled shrimp.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  June 23, 2014

Vegi Chianti Classico Francesco Chiostri 2009.  Rusty in color, with classic Sangiovese scents of dried cherry, dusty herbs, leather, and dark tobacco.  Soft in the mouth.  A nice hint of bitterness to go with the cherry and mocha flavors.  Not a lot of structure here, so drink know through 2017.  About $16.

-  June 22, 2014

Artea Rosé 2013 (Alpes de Haute Provence).  Peach colored and having scents of raspberries, cherries, and slate, this is a great summer sipper, with an easygoing, approachable style.  Good red fruit on the palate paired with laser acidity.  Amazing value.  Drink now while it's hot outside.  About $7.

-  June 21, 2014

Henri de Villamont Crémant de Bourgogne Non-Vintage.  At this price, this is a nice, unchallenging alternative to Champagne, offering solid white peach, spring flowers, and citrus notes.  Easy, approachable texture and great acidity.  Better as an aperitif.  Drink now.  About $15.

-  June 20, 2014

Matua Sauvignon Blanc 2013 (Marlborough).  Heavy on the gooseberry scents, plus white peach, zest of lime, and tangerine.  Zippy, fresh, and energetic, lingering nicely, with more citrus and green guava flavors.  Great with sushi.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  June 3, 2014

Mont Tauch L'Enclos des Roses 2011 (Corbières).  Made from 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache, and 20% Carignan.  Good intensity here, this tastes very much like the appellation should, with interesting dried herb/undergrowth qualities to go with the dark fruit, licorice, spice, and smoke notes.  A bit tart on the attack, but has good depth and length.  Excellent value.  Drink now through 2018.  About $12.

-  June 1, 2014

Le Petit Rouvière Rosé 2012 (Vin De Pays Du Var).  Light peach color, with aromas suggesting honeycrisp apple and raspberries.  Clean and pretty, this isn't a complex rosé, but is nicely balanced with solid fruit and zippy acidity for a hot day.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  May 31, 2014

Yalumba Shiraz/Viognier Y Series 2012 (South Australia).  Made with 4% Viognier, this offers plenty of smoke on the nose, plus black currant, plums, tar, coffee, and licorice.  Medium-bodied, extracted, with a spicy finish.  The mid-palate is a bit compressed, but this has good focus and admirable depth, especially for the price.  Drink now through 2018.  About $12.

-  May 26, 2014

E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2013.  Electric pink in color.  Watermelon, raspberry, and modest cherry flavors, with a balanced, energetic frame.  Nice hint of bitterness on the finish.  Easy to like.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  May 25, 2014

Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc Private Bin 2013 (Marlborough).  Aromatic nose of gooseberry, grapefruit, and limes.  Turns tropical in the mouth (passion fruit/guava), with zippy acidity and moderate presence.  Nicely done, and a great value.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  May 24, 2014

Pierre Janny Bourgogne Blanc Challand 2011.  Straw-colored as well in aroma, plus pears, limestone, grass, and lime zest.  Refreshing, clean and lithe, showing no oak, this is easygoing and suitable for a wide range of foods.  A hint of vanilla ice cream on the finish.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  May 19, 2014

Villa des Anges Old Vines Rosé 2013 (Pays D'Oc).  Made from Cinsault, this is relatively light in color, with scents of raspberries, white/red flowers, and crisp apples.  Vibrant and thirst quenching, it leans toward the red berry side of things rather than citrus, finishing with a celery note.  An easy food pairing.  Seems even better than last year's version.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  May 12, 2014

Feudo Arancio Grillo Stemmari 2012 (Sicily).  Nicely done, with peach, white flower, citrus, and subtle apple notes.  Easy to approach texture, this is round and balanced, especially for such a cheap wine.  Drink now.  About $8.

-  May 11, 2014

Mollydooker Shiraz The Boxer 2012 (South Australia).  Thick, rich and loaded with dark plum, hoisin sauce, mocha, tobacco, and black cherry notes.  Excellent length and volume.  A bit hot, with the 16% alcohol sticking out some, but if you're interested in the non-subtle style of Shiraz, this is for you.  Try this with some grilled skirt steak.  Drink now through 2020.  About $23.

-  May 10, 2014

Capa Tempranillo (Castilla).  Dusty hints on the nose, plus tart cherry and plums.  Bright, with focused fruit and a pleasantly bitter note on the finish.  A savory, outstanding value in a an everyday quaff.  No vintage indicated.  Drink now.  About $20/3L box.

-  May 5, 2014   

Domaine Houchart Rosé 2013 (Côtes de Provence).  Smells and tastes like a watermelon (including the rind), plus citrus, raspberries, and tart apples. The essence of summer, with a zippy freshness that begs for another sip of refreshment.  This is the house rosé of davidjohnhansen.com.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  May 4, 2014

Cellers Melis Elix 2005 (Priorat).  Scorched earth, something roasted, blueberries, cherries, and smoke on the nose.  Full-bodied, with nicely ripe tannins and an approachable texture that supports cola, coffee, and licorice flavors.  15% alcohol.  Drink now through 2019.  About $26.

-  May 3, 2014

Dourthe Rosé 2012 (Bordeaux).  Offers scents of grass, bing cherries, fresh herbs, and bell peppers.  Red grapefruit, cherry, and something green (oregano?) on the palate, with a creamy finish.  There will be better rosés this season, but at this price, it's still worth buying.  Made from 90% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  April 20, 2014

Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards Right Bank 2005 (Napa Valley).  Made from 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc, this exhibits a nose of blue ink, violets, egg whites, red bell peppers, and ground black pepper, later moving to red berries.  Vibrant, smooth palate, with a freshness to it that really blossoms with air.  Long finish.  Drink now through 2018.  About $60.

-  April 19, 2014

Domaine La Garrigue Côtes du Rhône Cuvée Romaine 2012.  Dark color is mirrored by the dark nose of black licorice, cigar tobacco, and cherries.  Youthful stuffing supports freshly brewed coffee, smoke, black fruit, and underbrush notes.  Excellent body and focus, this needs a bit of time/air to come together.  About $16.

-  April 11, 2014

Domaine Carneros Brut 2008 (Carneros).  Very lively bead, and offering scents of bread dough, white flowers, and granny smith apple.  Super-fresh and elegant, with a lovely mouthfeel, this hints at white grapefruit and pear, then some graham cracker on the finish.  It's the texture that makes this one fascinating.  Drink now through 2018.  About $24.

-  April 1, 2014

Stefano Accordini Valpolicella Classico 2012.  Made from 75% Corvina and 25% Rondinella, this has a dusty edge to the cherry, mint, cola, and plum scents.  Lively and bright palate that turns darker as it finishes.  Good texture.  Solid.  Drink now through 2017.  About 15.

-  March 24, 2014

Mas Doix Salanques 2007 (Priorat).  Fantastic, expressive nose of crushed rocks, cherry liqueur, and blueberry.  Medium-bodied, with delicious cherry flavors and hints of smoke.  Focused and pure, with outstanding balance.  Drink now through 2017.  About $30.

-  March 23, 2014

Cristia 2012 (Ventoux).  Nose of dust and cherries, with a garnet color.  Excellent purity here, plus uplifting acidity to the underbrush, cherry, leather, and black pepper flavors.  Drink now through 2018.  About $16.

-  March 19, 2014

Bodegas Olarra Añares Rioja Reserva 2006.  Really nicely scented with oolong tea, smoke, and bright red fruit.  Medium-bodied with great acidity and excellent purity, plus cherry flavors that are focused and long.  Drink now through 2017.  About $17.

-  March 16, 2014

Bodegas Virgen del Aguila Garnacha Alto Cinco 2011 (Cariñena).  Pleasing soft cherry, fresh coffee, and blueberry notes.  Great purity, admirable freshness, and easy texture. Not contemplative, but inexpensive, and made for early consumption.  About $10.

-  March 15, 2014

Anna Maria Abbona Sorí dij But 2011 (Dogliani).  Made from 100% Dolcetto, this exhibits a dusty nose, plus lavender notes that continue on the palate.  Savory coffee, herb, and potpourri qualities.  Good finish of blood and plum notes.  Drink now through 2017.  About $15.

-  March 14, 2014

Henri Giraud Champagne Brut Esprit de Giraud Non-Vintage.  Floral nose, but the palate is not as delicate, with notions of apricot, strawberry, table water cracker, blanched almonds, and pear.  Deft balance, superb elegance, and a chalky, moderately intense finish.  Drink now through 2016.  About $50.

-  March 11, 2014

Mont Tauch 2011 (Fitou).  Made from 40% Syrah, 30% Grenache, and 30% Carignan, this is an inexpensive, spicy red from a part of France that so southern, it's almost in Spain.  Pleasant vanilla, dust, and smoke scents.  Medium-bodied, peppery, with modest fruit and mocha notes.  Not much structure or volume here, so drink now.  About $10.

-  March 6, 2014

Hall Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (Napa Valley).  Opaque red.  Excellent, classic Cabernet scents of cassis, dark tobacco, espresso, and black cherry.  Medium to full-bodied, well-crafted, and delicious.  A great finish that echoes with licorice, graphite, and more fruit.  Drink now through 2020.  About $40.

-  March 2, 2014

Marqués de Caceres Rioja Blanco 2012.  Made from 100% Viura, this white is fresh and clean, with a hint of rubber glove on the nose, but mostly notes of lemon zest, white flowers, and green pear.  Subtle chalk on the dry finish.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  February 28, 2014

Parize Givry Champ Nalot 2007.  There's a distinctive peppery note here and some hints of funk to go with the cherry, coffee, bell pepper, and cranberry flavors. Vibrant, with good focus and moderate length.  Drink now.  About $25.

-  February 23, 2014

Clos de la Oratoire 2000 (St. Emilion).  Cedar, lavender, freshly brewed coffee, wet leaves, and hints of smoke on the nose.  Medium-bodied, with moderate intensity, but great persistence.  Savory bay leaf qualities, very old world, with blossoming fruit on the finish.  Not at all tired, so drink now through 2019.  About $50.

-  February 17, 2014

Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina (Sannio).  Notes of wax, peaches, thyme, flowers, preserved lemon, and minerals.  Medium-bodied, balanced, and very consistent in style.  Pair with an herb/lemon roasted chicken.  Drink now.  About $15.

-  January 24, 2014

Egly-Ouriet Champagne Brut Tradition Grand Cru Non-Vintage.  Golden hue.  Impressive aromas that shout of honey, butterscotch, marcona almonds, mushrooms, and red apples.  Great intensity of fruit, admirable liveliness, and beautiful length.  Almost full-bodied, but with laser acidity.  Gorgeous.  An early candidate for the top 10 list.  Mature, this one was disgorged in November 2006, so if you have one, drink up.  About $60.

-  January 23, 2014

Covides Sant Sadurni d'Anola Cava Casteller Non-Vintage.  Made from 40% Macabeo, 40% Xarelo, and 20% Parellada, this is subtle and appealing, with nice citrus and green apple notes.  Zippy.  Nice minerality on the finish.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  January 19, 2014

The Crossings Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (Awatere Valley).  Extreme clarity, and made in the classic Crossings style, with loads of zesty gooseberry, clementine, grass, river rock, and lime notes.  Not shy, this is not for those who desire an elegant Sauvignon Blanc.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  January 18, 2014

Bota Box Zinfandel 2011 (Puglia).  This is a savory, southern Italian Zin (known as Primitivo over there), that offers dried herb and plum scents, moving to a modestly proportioned palate, reminiscent of black cherries, smoke, and dark tobacco.  At only about $16 for a 3 liter box ($4 per bottle), don't try to analyze this, just press the button and drink now.

-  January 17, 2014

Columbia Crest Chardonnay Unoaked 2012 (Washington).  Why is this recommended?  Because it's inexpensive, clean, uncomplicated, and easy to enjoy.  Pear, apple, grass, and citrus rind notes, with zippy acidity on the finish.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  January 14, 2014

Les Vignerons D'Estezargues Côtes du Rhône Villages Signargues Vieilles Vignes La Granacha 2010.  Impressive depth here for a CdR, it has a soft texture, but leaves an impact on the palate.  Fig, smoke, briary black fruit, and coffee notes.  Nicely done.  Drink now through 2017.  About $15.

-  January 10, 2014

Château Pavie 1999 (Saint Emilion).  Very beautiful nose, perfumed with roses, violets, freshly brewed coffee, campfire smoke, caramel, tobacco, bell pepper, and charcoal.  Elegant and effortless, showing great purity, medium-body, admirable focus, and a long finish.  Not a blockbuster, but very contemplative.  Made from 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.  Drink now through 2020.  About $200.

-  January 8, 2014

Bodegas Volver Tarima Hill 2010 (Alicante).  Opaque.  Complex, dense nose of burnt caramel, espresso, licorice, marshmallows, bitter chocolate, cologne, wild black fruit, and something medicinal.  Full-bodied, very intense, and as dark as midnight.  Brooding, like there's something evil lurking in the background.  Fantastic value, and even better than the 2009.  Made from 100% Monastrell.  Drink now through 2018.  About $16.

-  December 31, 2013

Below are davidjohnhansen.com's top 10 most memorable wine recommendations of 2013.  Because it has been such a good year, there are a few honorable mentions tacked on to the bottom.  Readers are strongly encouraged to try any of these.

#1 - Gaja Sperss 1997 (Langhe)

#2 - Pierre Péters Blanc de Blanc Cuvée de Réserve Champagne Non-Vintage

#3 - Lewelling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Wight Vineyard 2003 (Napa Valley)

#4 - Yalumba The Signature 2001 (Barossa)

#5 - Château Lafite Rothschild 1999 (Pauillac)

#6 - Bodegas Vizcarra Ramos JC Vizcarra 2010 (Ribera del Duero)

#7 - Schramsberg Brut Rosé 2007 (North Coast)

#8 - Domaine Giraud Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition 2009

#9 - Vazart-Coquart & Fils Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Reserve Non-Vintage

#10 - Domaine de la Janasse Côtes du Rhône Villages Terre d'Argile 2010

Honorable mentions:

Locations E-1 2011 (Spain)

Roederer Estate Brut L'Ermitage 2003 (Anderson Valley)

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli 1997

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (Napa Valley)


-  December 29, 2013

Roederer Estate Brut Non-Vintage (Anderson Valley).  Straw colored, and scented with resonant notes of hazelnuts, whole wheat toast, and vanilla.  A richer style, with fantastic intensity to the preserved citrus, red apple, and hints of cream/butterscotch.  Amazing value.  Drink now through 2016.  About $20.

-  December 26, 2013

Banshee Wines Pinot Noir Rickshaw 2012 (Sonoma County).  Garnet in color.  Both light and dark cherry scents, along with tobacco and spices.  Great purity and admirable focus, this is a well-made, everyday Pinot, with solid fruit and cola flavors.  Drink now.  About $16.

-  December 25, 2013

Doña Paula Malbec Los Cardos 2012 (Mendoza).  Solid toasty qualities, like roasted coffee and bitter chocolate, then figs and blackberries.  There's some vanilla and herb notes on the finish.  Medium-bodied, with good freshness.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  December 22, 2013

Paolo Scavino Barolo 2003.  Ruby in color, with a touch of rust.  Perfumed nose of dark dried mushrooms, cherries, and cocoa powder.  Very Nebbiolo, with flavors of tar, roses, espresso, and dried cherries.  Great intensity for a 10 year old wine.  At its plateau of development, but with lots of structure, and will be great for another 5 years.  About $50.

-  December 21, 2013

Jacquart Champagne Brut Mosaïque Non-Vintage.  Pretty color, with hints of gold.  Very lively bead, showing overt scents of bread dough, butterscotch, honey, and almonds.  There's some subtle spiciness (like an orange with cloves in it) on the palate, along with toasted bread and toffee notes.  Not a delicate style of Champagne, this has robust flavor, but is actually not heavy in body.  Drink now through 2015.  About $40.

-  December 20, 2013

Allegrini Palazzo della Torre 2010 (Veronese).  Dusty initially, but blows off to reveal black licorice, road tar, violets, smoking ember, and graphite notes.  Good depth and expansive mid-palate, with great extraction and impressive focus.  A bit short on the finish, but that's a minor detail.  One of the most consistent wines from this part of Italy.  Made from 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, and 5% Sangiovese.  Drink now through 2018.  About $20.

-  December 19, 2013

Francis Ford Coppola Votre Santé 2012 (California).  Licorice, fresh cherries, plums and subtle smoke notes.  Soft, easygoing, but nicely balanced, with enough depth and body to keep it interesting.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  December 18, 2013

Masi Campofiorin 2009 (Veronese).  Made with the appassimento method, this has a bright nose that contrasts with licorice, dust, and cherry cola notes.  Medium-bodied, with good focus and energy, this changes a great deal in the glass.  Very consistent in style from previous vintages.  Drink now through 2018.  About $15.

-  December 13, 2013

Brancott Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (Marlborough).  Heavy on the pink grapefruit and ripe guava notes, this is loaded with fruit and not at all shy.  Juicy, but also has kaffir lime and fresh herb qualities, as well as enough acidity to remain refreshing, finishing with good length.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  December 10, 2013

Campo Viejo Cava Brut Reserva Non-Vintage.  Clear and lively, with shy scents of white flowers and white grapefruit.  Not a ton going on here, but it's also not without merit, showing palate-cleansing acidity, a chalky edge, and hints of citrus rind.  Appropriately priced.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  December 5, 2013

Domaine de la Janasse Côtes du Rhône Villages Terre d'Argile 2011.  Smoke, iodine, and seaweed on the nose.  A touch of undergrowth on the palate to go with the plum, cherry, and charcoal notes.  Medium-bodied, and not as plump or intense as the 2010, but still very good.  Give this some air.  Made from 40% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 30% Mourvedre.  Drink now through 2019.  About $23.

-  December 4, 2013

Sant Sadurní D'Anola Cava Gran Gesta Non-Vintage.  Light yellow in color.  Solid Cava, with modest proportions that are slow to reveal, but ending in bitter lemon, metal, and dark spices on the finish.  Made from 55% Xarelo, 25% Macabeo, and 20% Parellada.  Drink now.  About $15.

-  December 3, 2013

Lewelling Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (Napa Valley).  Fantastic, penetrating nose of graphite, pure cassis, blueberry, mocha, and scorched earth.  Full-bodied, plush, and very long, with a finish that keep pumping out more fruit, charcoal, and licorice flavors.  Outstanding.  Begs for immediate consumption, but will last for another 10 years.  About $45.

-  December 2, 2013

Bodegas Volver Tarima 2012 (Alicante).  Made from 100% Monastrell, this is dark, brooding, and smoky, but also shows good cherry fruit, plus beef blood and iron notes.  A bit rustic, but has lots of intensity and impressive density for the price.  Drink now through 2016.  About $10.

-  December 1, 2013

Big House Chardonnay Unchained 2011 (California).  An unoaked, cheap Chardonnay from a box, offering modest notes of fresh herbs, light peach, limes, and oranges, with a moderate presence in the mouth.  Hints of petroleum on the finish, this is not a wine for contemplation, but offers solid varietal character for little money.  Drink now.  About $20/3L.

-  November 28, 2013

Vinícola del Priorat Clos Gebrat 2011 (Priorat).  Made from 40% Grenache, 35% Carignan, 15% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Syrah.  Dusty, smoky, coffee-tinged nose, plus black licorice and cherry cola.  Medium-bodied, with very good balance and density of flavor.  Crushed rocks, black cherry, and more licorice on the finish.  Very Priorat in profile.  A bargain for this appellation, this isn't at the top level, but certainly worth recommending.  Drink now through 2016.  About $24.

-  November 26, 2013

Martin Códax Albariño 2011 (Rias Baixas).  Very inviting nose, featuring citrus flowers, green pear, lime rind, and lemongrass.  Crisp, very refreshing, and not complex, but it's also hard to resist.  Very few foods would not pair with this . . . you know, like a Thanksgiving dinner.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  November 24, 2013

Salviano Orvieto Classico Superiore 2011.  Yellow in color, with notes of orange blossom, pear, white peach, pink grapefruit rind, and blanched almond.  Medium-bodied, pretty, with nicely balanced acidity.  Lively and interesting.  Made from 30% Trebbiano, 30% Grechetto, 20% Chardonnay, and 20% Sauvignon Blanc.  About $18.

-  November 20, 2013

Domaine Carneros Brut Rosé Cuvée de la Pompadour Non-Vintage (Carneros).  Pretty copper/pink color, with aromas of fresh flowers, raspberries, and active bread dough.  Very elegant, structured, and toasty, with a solid core of berry and spice flavors.  Lingering finish.  Ready now, but will improve over the year, and last for a few more.  About $35.

-  November 19, 2013

MacMurray Ranch Pinot Gris 2011 (Russian River Valley).  Light yellow.  A touch of petroleum on the nose, plus classic pear and white peach notes.  Good body and admirable balance, showing some elegance on the moderate finish.  Drink now.  About $15.

-  November 18, 2013

Barone Fini Pinot Grigio 2012 (Valdadige).  Has a step ahead of most value Pinot Grigio from Italy, with ripe pear, peach, and fresh herb notes.  Needs a little more acidity to keep the ripe fruit in check, but otherwise, this is an easy to like white, made for early consumption.  About $12.

-  November 17, 2013

Losada El Pájaro Rojo 2011 (Bierzo).  Notably purple.  Smells like raw beef, lavender, and smoke.  Supple in the mouth, offering plum and cherry notes, with an energetic, youthful finish.  Made from the Mencía grape.  Drink now through 2015.  About $12.

-  November 13, 2013

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 1993 (Napa Valley).  A 20 year old wine, showing a very pretty nose of caramel, cassis, flowers, and coffee.  Mature, extremely elegant, and exhibiting wonderful balance.  Still lots of fruit, plus lavender notes, with a very long, vibrant finish.  Drink now through 2016.  About $100.

-  November 9, 2013

Domaine Lafage Chardonnay Novellum 2012 (Vin de Pays D'Oc).  White peaches, lemon curd, and tropical fruit (guava/passion fruit) on the nose.  Vanilla and a bit of oak on the attack.  Not overdone and having lots of body, but also great acidity.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  November 8, 2013

Montinore Estate Pinot Gris 2012 (Willamette Valley).  Made from organic grapes, this is clean and bright, with notes of white peach, limes, flowers, and yellow apple.  Focused, with good persistence and appealing acidity.  Elegant.  Don't serve this too cold.  Drink now through 2015.  About $13.

-  November 7, 2013

Domaine de Mourchon Rosé Cotes du Rhone Villages Loubie 2011.  Very clear, with aromas of ripe cheese, minerals, raspberries, and roses.  Lots of fruit on the palate, plus more minerality.  Good focus.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  November 4, 2013

Burgans Albariño 2011 (Rias Baixas).  Inviting white peach, apple, and orange scents lead to a medium-bodied, delightful palate that has lively acidity and immediate appeal.  Lots of juicy freshness here.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  November 2, 2013

Chateau Magence Blanc 2011 (Graves).  Very clean, with lots of verve. Orange blossom, limes, wet stone, and fresh herb notes, finishing dry.  Great with sushi.  Drink now.  About $15.

-  October 30, 2013

Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec 2011 (Mendoza).  This winery's mid-level offering, from high altitude vineyards, is an opaque, serious wine.  Soaring espresso nose, plus boysenberry, melted chocolate, and smoke.  Dense and extracted in the mouth, with a toasty/dark profile that's pretty intense.  Drink now through 2018.  About $22.

-  October 28, 2013

Maimai Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (Hawkes Bay).  It's New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, but doesn't present with overdone Marlborough notes.  Shows an elegant profile of white grapefruit, pea shoot, bell pepper, gooseberry, and mint.  Nice balance, easy texture, and moderate finish.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  October 27, 2013

Chateau Larrivet Haut Brion 2000 (Pessac-Leognan).  Ruby color, with hints of rust.  Very floral nose, plus cherry, tobacco, leather, and ball point pen ink.  Medium-bodied.  Iron and smoldering ember initially, then fruit on the finish.  Mature, but will hold for another 5 years.  About $50.

-  October 26, 2013

Campo Viejo Rioja Garnacha 2012.  With a complex nose of coffee grounds, cologne, bacon, blackberries, and blueberries, this is a bit unusual for a Rioja - a 100% Grenache.  Tastes meaty, with blood notes after a cherry dominated attack.  Medium-bodied, with little tannin and an easy texture.  Very interesting.  Drink now through 2016.  About $11.

-  October 20, 2013

Cantina Sacchetto Prosecco Enza Non-Vintage.  Very clear, with a fine bead for this type of wine, and offers notes of green apples, mint, hints of honey, and white grapefruit. Crisp, and nicely balanced, this is better than your average Prosecco.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  October 16, 2013

Calera Pinot Noir 2011 (Central Coast).  Complex cola, flowers, blackberry, freshly brewed coffee, bright cherries, and subtle smoke notes, with a dark, lingering finish.  Fantastic texture, that's both rich and elegant.  Really well-done, and an outstanding value.  Drink now through 2016.  About $23.

-  October 14, 2013

The Wishing Tree Chardonnay Unoaked 2011 (Adelaide).  Clean and bright, with notions of pear, lemons, white grapefruit, and hints of petroleum.  Refreshing and dry.  Good for an everyday quaff.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  October 11, 2013

Mas Carlot Les Enfants Terribles 2010 (Costières de Nîmes).  Composed of 50% Mourvèdre and 50% Syrah.  Feels like there's a little more acidity compared to the 2009, and also feels a little more elegant.  Medium-bodied, holding your interest with notes of violets, freshly brewed coffee, spices, red fruits, cocoa, and hints of funk.  Drink now through 2018.  About $15.

-  October 9, 2013

A to Z Wineworks Pinot Gris 2012 (Oregon).  Very peachy, plus notes of fresh herbs, river rock, and ripe pear.  With lots of body, this is no delicate Pinot Gris.  Good presence and purity, this is an easy food pairing, and easy to like.  Drink now.  About $14.

-  October 8, 2013

Cellars Unio Señorio de Convey 2008 (Priorat).  Made from 50% Grenache, 30% Carignan, and 20% Syrah.  Very Priorat, with scents that include cherry, iron, blueberry, slate, and smoke.  Not a blockbuster in the mouth, but offers a modest impression, with focused flavors and admirable purity.  Drink now through 2015.  About $15.

-  October 7, 2013

Planeta La Segreta Bianco 2012 (Sicilia).  An interesting blend of 50% Grecanico, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Viognier, and 10% Fiano.  Yellow in color, and heavy on the apple notes, plus minerals, parsley, thyme, sweet onion, and pear.  Medium-bodied, with great acidity on the finish.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  October 5, 2013

Vazart-Coquart & Fils Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Reserve Non-Vintage.  Offers a striking nose of white mushrooms, hay, subtle spice, and ripe pear, this comes from exclusively grand cru Chardonnay vineyards.  Well-proportioned, with fantastic acidity supporting strawberry, bread dough, almonds, and apple flavors.  Hints of ginger and wheat biscuit on the long finish.  Wonderful now, but will hold for a year or two.  About $50.

-  October 2, 2013

Santa Rita Cabernet Sauvignon Medalla Real Gran Reserva 2009 (Maipo Valley).  Fantastic, generous nose that includes loam, blackberry, incense, lavender, and barbecue sauce notes.  Less expressive in the mouth, but shows some real guts to it, with solid structure.  Have this with grilled meat.  Drink now through 2017.  About $14.

-  October 1, 2013

Gruet Brut Non-Vintage (New Mexico).  Always a great value, this offers notes of toasted nuts, apricots, lemons, and red apples.  Lively, and far more interesting to drink than most bubbly at this price.  Last posted on January 9, 2010.  Drink now.  About $16.

-  September 30, 2013

La Posta Malbec Pizzella Family Vineyard 2010 (Mendoza).  Rich purple color.  Boysenberry, mocha, toasted oak, and red plum notes.  Great definition and presence, with coffee flavors that echo on the finish.  Not as outstanding as previous vintages, but still a very well-made Malbec, exhibiting solid sense of place.  Drink now through 2017.  About $16.

-  September 29, 2013

Trimbach Pinot Blanc 2011 (Alsace).  Fresh, crisp, and friendly, featuring white peach, crushed rock, orange peel, and green apple notes.  Turns to more ripe fruit on the finish, where it stays vibrant and thirst-quenching.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  September 24, 2013

Aviva Garnacha Filón 2011 (Calatayud).  Surprisingly dark on the nose, featuring charcoal, smoke, and wild blackberry scents.  Lots of toasty flavors in the mouth, plus prunes, cola, and bitter chocolate.  With air, more primary fruit shows up (mostly cherry).  Medium-bodied, with impressive density for the price.  Drink now through 2017.  About $10.

-  September 23, 2013

Goretti Grechetto 2012 (Coli Perugini).  Yellow colored and clear, with scents of stone fruit (mostly white peach), honey, and crushed limestone.  Good presence in the mouth, where more minerality shows up, along with some tropical fruit notes on the finish.  From Umbria.  Drink now.  About $17.

-  September 22, 2013

Corvidae Cabernet Franc The Keeper 2012 (Columbia Valley).  Ruby color.  Cherry, green herbs, red bell pepper, and coffee scents.  Holds your interest in the mouth, with integrated acidity supporting flavors of cloves and cherry cola.  Mid-weight, with solid focus and a vibrant finish.  Drink now through 2017.  About $19.

-  September 21, 2013

Mollydooker Shiraz The Boxer 2005 (McLaren Vale/Langhorne Creek).  Rich!  Deep black/blue fruit, charcoal, vanilla, mocha, molasses, and white flower notes.  Luxurious texture, intense fruit, and long finish.  Full-throttle at 16% alcohol.  Show no signs of slowing down.  Last tasted in October 12, 2006.  Drink now through 2025.  About $22.

-  September 18, 2013

E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône 2010.  Lots of smoky, toasty, charcoal notes on the nose, with wild berries in the background.  Ripe, but a bit chunky, this delivers solid undergrowth/lavender flavors that are old school for this appellation.  Food-centric in style.  Drink now through 2015.  About $12.

-  September 17, 2013

Capçanes Mas Donis Barrica Old Vines 2010 (Montsant).  Made from 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah, this has a fantastic nose of crushed rocks, incense, licorice, and black/blue fruit.  Gorgeous texture (especially for the price), dense flavors, and great intensity.  Fine tannin, with good volume, this is an astonishing value.  Drink now through 2019.  About $14.

-  September 15, 2013

Nita 2006 (Priorat).  Hints of brown color, with a classic Priorat nose of blueberries, cherries, and smoke.  Medium-bodied, rather soft, but good density of flavor and solid acidity.  Not as good as the 2008, but worth recommending.  Drink now through 2015.  About $20.

-  September 14, 2013

Cave de Vendôme Blanc Lieu-dit Cocagne 2011 (Coteaux du Vendômois).  Lots of minerality here, along with notions of limes, green apple, white peach, and orange peel.  Nice acidity and modest presence, finishing dry.  100% Chenin Blanc.  Drink now.  About $9.

-  September 12, 2013

Domaine Manciat-Poncet Mâcon-Charnay 2011.  Lily, lemons, and limestone notes that are elegant and pleasing.  Not overpowering or knocking you over the head with flavors, but the flavors it has are well-done and enjoyable.  Drink now.  About $15.

-  September 7, 2013

Locations E-1 2011 (Spain).  Smells like a men's cologne and something powdery, plus black licorice, blackberries, espresso, and smoke.  Full-bodied, very intense, youthful, and long.  Pepper, eucalyptus, licorice, cherry, and mocha flavors.  The best of the three Locations series (but not by much), slightly ahead of the French version.  Amazing value.  Made from Grenache from the Priorat, Tempranillo from Rioja, and Carignan from the Ribera del Duero.  Great now through 2020.  About $17.

-  September 4, 2013

Charles & Charles Rosé 2012 (Columbia Valley).  Made from 81% Syrah, 16% Mourvedre, 2% Cinsault, and 1% Grenache.  Watermelon and strawberry scents in an overt style that's not at all delicate.  Fruity palate, like a cranberry/apple juice blend, but just crisp enough to stay together.  For those who don't like a subtle rosé.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  September 3, 2013

Bodegas Vizcarra Ramos JC Vizcarra 2010 (Ribera del Duero).  Made from 100% Tempranillo, from 30 year old vines.  Dark, mysterious nose, hinting at smoke, cassis, licorice, and coffee.  Given plenty of air, this exhibits plenty of black plum flavors on an expansive mid-palate.  Dense, extracted, and intense.  Fantastic value.  Great now, but better in a few years, and has the stuffing to last for 10 more.  About $25.

-  August 30, 2013

Schramsberg Brut Rosé 2007 (North Coast).  Pretty salmon/copper color, with gorgeous aromatics of bread dough, strawberries, cranberries, and biscuit.  Starts off very refined and elegant, then moves on the the berry flavors that are deep, and ends with a very lasting impression.  Fine bubbles, and fantastic texture.  Outstanding.  Made from 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnary.  Drink now through 2015.  About $38.

-  August 29, 2013

Smith & Hook Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 (Central Coast).  Freshly brewed coffee and cassis aromas initially, moving to dark tobacco, lavender, and smoke notes.  Fleshy and round, with solid acidity, this is a good value Cabernet made for early consumption.  Black currant and plum notes on the moderate finish.  Drink now through 2016.  About $20.

-  August 28, 2013

Terre des Olivettes Rosé 2012 (Pays d'Oc).  Made from 40% Cinsault, 30% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Carignan.  Pretty pale color, and offering an inviting nose of raspberries, cherries, and flowers.  Enjoyable and uncomplicated, balancing good fruit and mouthwatering acidity.  Drink now.  About $9.

-  August 27, 2013

Cantina di Soave Garganega/Pinot Grigio Duca del Frassino 2012 (Venezie).  Generous, with its ripe pear, citrus, fresh herb, and peach profile.  More fruit than the 2011, but has the acidity too.  Not refined, but would be a bargain at $9 a bottle, yet this sells for the equivalent of $5.  Made from 80% Garganega.  Drink now.  About $20/3 liter.

-  August 26, 2013

Chateau La Rame Rosé 2012 (Bordeaux).  Orange blossom, citrus pith, rose, raspberry, and bell pepper notes.  Bright and zippy, kind of lean, but maintains good balance overall.  Drink now.  About $15.

-  August 25, 2013

Shingleback Sparkling Shiraz Black Bubbles Non-Vintage (McLaren Vale).  Strikingly opaque, and offers plenty of black fruit (plums/blackberry), plus peppery notes.  Just this shy of too much fruit, but the acidity and bubbles reins this in.  Try with a burger.  Drink now.  About $18.

-  August 24, 2013

Brokenwood Semillon 2011 (Hunter Valley).  Petroleum, lime, kumquat, and pear notes with vibrant structure. Crisp, with solid fruit and purity.  Would pair with most any fish dish.  Drink now.  About $15.

-  August 22, 2013

Locations I-1 (Italy).  Lavender, smoke, black ink, briary black fruit, plus hints of cream on the nose.  Dense, concentrated palate, with a lengthy finish, showing fine acidity and good intensity.  Not quite as remarkable as the French version, but still very good.  Made from Negroamaro, Nero d'Avola, Barbera, and other varietals from Puglia.  Drink now through 2016.  About $16.

-  August 21, 2013

Perrin Côtes du Rhône Rosé Reserve 2011.  Bright pink.  Raspberry, then concentrated cherry flavors, moving to more savory notes on the finish, where some citrus rind is evident.  A more food-ready rosé.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  August 20, 2013

Bodegas Shaya Shaya 2011 (Rueda).  Made from 100% Verdejo, and offering scents of flowers and minerals.  Loaded with melon, peach, and river rock flavors, with excellent body and definition.  Some honeysuckle notes on the finish, leaving a rounded and rich impression that's supported by fine acidity.  Drink now through 2015.  About $15.

-  August 19, 2013

Twin Islands Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (Marlborough).  With vibrant and piercing notes of lime, passion fruit, and gooseberry, this is very typical of New Zealand.  Turns almost juicy, with some mango flavors to go with the citrus.  Nothing unusual, but it's cheap, and delivers lots of flavor.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  August 18, 2013

Sacha Lichine Rosé Single Blend 2012 (France).  Great balance of red fruits and bitter/savory notes, with some dusty qualities.  Cherry/raspberry flavors mostly.  Mid-weight, with good intensity.  Made from Grenache.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  August 17, 2013

Francisco Dominguez Cava Mercat Non-Vintage.  This consistent Spanish bubbly continues to win in the value sweepstakes.  Very good clarity to the white grapefruit scents, leading to a sharp entry, and then a pleasant, pear and lemon tinged palate.  Energetic and uncomplicated.  Last tasted December 14, 2011.  About $15.

-  August 16, 2013

Chateau Pey La Tour Rosé 2012 (Bordeaux).  Flowers, raspberries, oranges and fresh herbs are all displayed on this supple value rosé.  Very good balance and presence.  Made from 65% Cabernet Franc, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Merlot.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  August 15, 2013

Feudi di San Gregorio Rubrato 2008 (Irpinia).  Coming from Campania, and made of Aglianico, this is dark on the nose, but also grapey, plus coffee and cherry aromas.  Inky on the palate, with notions of iodine and espresso, having good tannin/acidity structure.  Focused.  Tart cherry and salty intensity on the finish.  Drink now through 2016.  About $16.

-  August 14, 2013

Marius Peyol Rosé 2012 (Côtes de Provence).  Very light in color, and smelling of burnt caramel, watermelon, and celery.  Pleasant and bright, with modest flavors and ambition, but still a good value.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  August 6, 2013

André Brunel Côtes du Rhône Villages Cuvée Sabrine 2010.  Looks unfiltered.  Smells a bit rustic, with notions of wet soil, iodine, beef blood, blackberry, and dusty wild herbs.  Opens up with air to reveal more fruit, and showing real power, with ripe tannins and great density.  Bitter chocolate, coffee, and blackberry notes, then tons of licorice on the finish.  Impressive, especially for this price and appellation.  Made from 80% Grenache, plus Syrah and Mourvedre.  Drink now through 2019.  About $15.

-  August 5, 2013

Balnea Verdejo 2011 (Rueda).  Smells like mandarin oranges, green melons, white peaches, and yellow apples.  Zippy and fresh, with notions of cucumber, parsley, and lemon.  Easy texture, with some pleasant bitterness on the finish.  An enjoyable summer white.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  August 4, 2013

Seghesio Zinfandel 2011 (Sonoma County).  There's no searching for the abundantly perfumed nose of blue/black fruit, flowers, and vanilla.  Cola on the attack, then plenty of plum, cherry, mocha, and pepper notes.  Medium-bodied, with good acidity and overall harmony.  Great zinfandel!  Drink now through 2017.  About $20.

-  August 1, 2013

Masciarelli Villa Gemma Rosé 2012 (Cerasuolo D'Abruzzo).  Light ruby in color, with hints of raspberry on the shy nose.  Some bitter pith notes, plus watermelon and strawberry flavors.  Structured and robust in style.  Interesting.  Drink now through 2015.  About $13.

-  July 31, 2013

Locations F-1 2011 (France).  Made from Grenache, Syrah, and some Bordeaux varietals, this is an unusual blend from all over France, made by Orin Swift winemaker Dave Phinney.  Dark, ripe nose, featuring lots of black fruit, cola, espresso, and charcoal.  Tastes like a ripe, dense Côtes du Rhône that also sees some charred oak aging.  Peppery finish, with lots of licorice and plum notes.  A fantastic value.  15% alcohol.  Drink now through 2018.  About $17.

-  July 30, 2013

Kato Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (Marlborough).  Aromatic and expressive, with lots of gooseberry, key lime, mango, and passion fruit notes.  Not a lot of nuance, but has zippy acidity and tons of fruit.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  July 29, 2013

Chateau Ksara Blanc de Blancs 2011 (Bekaa Valley).  Made from 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Chardonnay, and 25% Semillon.  Straw yellow in color, with a toasty vanilla nose, plus coconut and red apple notes.  Marshmallow, pear, and hints of petroleum on a medium-bodied frame.  Some citrus on the finish for lift.  Drink now.  About $18.

-  July 28, 2013

De Morgenzon DMZ Rosé 2013 (Western Cape).  Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a riper, fuller rosé, showing some concentration to the cherry and raspberry flavors.  Solid acidity and an orange rind note on the finish keeps it together.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  July 27, 2013

Jousselin & Fils Touraine Domaine du Rin Du Bois 2010.  This 100% Sauvignon Blanc is very refreshing, with pure gooseberry, tomatillo, chives, and grass scents.  Easygoing texture, with racy acidity on the moderate finish.  A nice summer sipper value.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  July 26, 2013

Buitenverwachting Sauvignon Blanc Bayten 2012 (Constantia Valley).  Cottage cheese, apricots, white peaches, and green stuff, like pea shoots/mint on the nose.  Bright and fresh, but with good weight and lemon/lime flavors.  Nice volume as it warms in the glass, revealing pear notes.  Drink now through 2015.  About $13.

-  July 23, 2013

Laurent Perrier Champagne 2002.  Lively, with small bubbles, and showing aromas of white peach, green apples, and preserved lemons.  Very alive for a 11 year old wine.  Fresh and youthful, but there's some darkness on the finish (graham cracker/wheat biscuit), plus some limestone.  Well done.  Drink now through 2016.  About $60.

-  July 22, 2013

Domaine de Fontsainte Rosé Gris de Gris 2012 (Corbières).  A pale color for a rosé.  Earthy, but not funky nose, like slate or river rock, plus roses and raspberry scents.  Surprising density on the mid-palate, with great fruit (peaches/raspberry/cherry) and balanced acidity.  Ends with a citrus rind note.  One of the better rosés of the season.  Drink now through 2015. 

-  July 21, 2013

Bodegas Naia Las Brisas 2012 (Rueda).  Real clarity and focus to the lemon, clementine, green herb (chive/thyme) scents.  Energetic, with great fruit and verve.  Light passion fruit, citrus, and melon flavors that are supple and unencumbered.  Drink now. About $12.

-  July 20, 2013

Pierre Janny Bourgogne Blanc Challand 2010.  Offers green bell pepper, mint, green apple, and white peach aromas, this is a solid value in a basic white Burgundy.  Supple and fresh, in a clean and inviting style, hinting at river rocks on the finish.  Shows no no oak influence.  Drink now.  About $14.

-  July 19, 2013

Les Valentines Rosé Le Caprice de Clementine 2012 (Côtes de Provence).  Made from 50% Cinsault and 50% Grenache, this exhibits notes of white peaches, oranges, roses, and raspberries.  Light-bodied and vibrant.  Needs some density, but it's still a nice summer rose.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  July 18, 2013

Château Lafont Menaut 2009 (Pessac-Léognan).  Focused honeydew, tropical fruit, lemon, clementine, and honey scents.  More grassy on the palate, plus citrus and green apple.  Crisp, with good presence.  Nearly as good as the 2010.  Drink now.  About $18.

-  July 17, 2013

Masciarelli Villa Gemma 2012 (Abruzzo).  Smells like ripe melons and bosc pears, with hints of petroleum and honey.  Medium-bodied, with good evolution in the mouth, showing red apple and stone fruit flavors.  Pair with anything from a spicy curry to sauced fish dishes.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  July 16, 2013

Duval Leroy Champagne Non-Vintage.  No shyness on the nose, this exhibits focused scents of white mushroom, green and yellow apples, brioche, and red berries.  Both creamy and spicy in the mouth, showing volume to the ginger, red citrus, and apple notes.  Needs a longer finish, but otherwise a very good non-vintage Champagne.  Last tasted April 13, 2012.  Drink now through 2015.  About $36.

-  July 15, 2013

Moillard Côtes du Rhône Rosé Les Violettes 2012.  A pale rosé in color, with a sweet, bright raspberry nose that also hints of leaves and dairy.  Polished entry leads to a robust cherry/citrus finish, with zippy acidity.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  July 14, 2013

Bodegas Volver Tarima Hill 2009 (Alicante).  Opaque.  Dark, dark nose, hinting at charcoal, espresso, black licorice, and smoke.  Expressive in the mouth, with plenty of dark cherry, plum, and mocha flavors.  Excellent acidity, plus amazing intensity (especially for the price), with real stuffing.  Made from Monastrell.  Drink now through 2021.  About $15.

-  July 13, 2013

Les Costières de Pomerols Picpoul de Pinet Saint-Peyre 2012 (Languedoc).  Offers scents of pea shoots, celery, mandarin orange, sea salt, and other assorted green leafy things that you would put in a salad (this is a good thing).  Zesty and easy to like, it's not complex, but don't let that hold you back from buying this "bag in a box" for its extreme value (equivalent of less than $6 per bottle).  Drink now.  About $23 for a 3 liter box.

-  July 12, 2013

Bodegas Ordoñez Zerran 2011 (Montsant).  Looks and smells youthfully purple, in that grape-like manner, but also exhibits scents of smoldering ember, blackberry, plum, and espresso.  Some solid, grippy tannins for backbone, plus lots of dark fruit, with real depth and "guts".  Made from 50% Garnacha, 40% Mazuelo, and 10% Syrah.  A fantastic value.  Ready now, but better in a year or so, and will last for another eight.  About $15.

-  July 11, 2013

Acacia Chardonnay A Unoaked 2011 (California).  Super-clear, with a shy nose (maybe some grass), but the palate exhibits plenty of ripe pear, peach, guava, and apricot notes, with hints of cream.  For those who don't like oaky Chardonnay, but don't want one too lean either.  Drink now through 2015.  About $11.

-  July 10, 2013

Mediterra Silenus Beta 2009 (Crete).  Made from mostly Vilana, this exhibits an herbal nose (thyme/bay leaf), with a greenish color.  Crisp, with a pleasantly bitter finish, showing mostly light citrus and limestone flavors.  Overall simple, but also easy to enjoy on a hot day.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  July 9, 2013

E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2012.  Bright, energetic color matches the palate, with notions of watermelon, raspberry, and red cherries.  Has lots of verve and presence for the price.  Better than the 2011.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  July 8, 2013

Domaine de la Louvetrie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2011.  Really elegant, with white grapefruit, fleur de sel, lemon, and tarragon notes.  Superb balance.  Best Muscadet so far this season.  Dink now.  About $13.

-  July 7, 2013

Françios Chidane Touraine Rosé 2012.  Made from Grolleau and Pinot Noir, this is bright and zippy, featuring tart cherry/raspberry notes, plus hints of apple and lemon peel.  Much better than last year's version.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  July 6, 2013

Luigi Righetti Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Capitel De Roari 2005.  Smells of iodine, squid ink, prunes, cinnamon, and cloves.  Medium-bodied support to the cherry and burnt sugar flavors.  Savory and solid.  Very good, not outstanding, but certainly worth recommending.  Drink now thorough 2017.  About $30.

-  July 5, 2013

Bodegas Borsao Garnacha Tres Picos 2010 (Campo de Borja).  Opaque, and overflowing with ripe/dense cherry, smoke, blueberry, and cola flavors on a full-bodied frame.  Fantastic purity.  Exuberant, with great length, especially for the price.  Hedonistic.  Drink now through 2016.  About $16.

-  July 4, 2013

Château Grande Cassagne Rosé 2012 (Costières de Nîmes).  Kind of neon pink in color, this is similar to the 2011 version, with its overt style of fresh, exuberant cherries, citrus rind, and raspberries.  More of rosé to have on its own, or to celebrate our nation's birth.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  July 3, 2013

Lewelling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Wight Vineyard 2003 (Napa Valley).  Opaque purple/red.  Pure, complex, and expressive nose of cassis, black plums, smoke, vanilla, and mocha.  Very full-bodied, rich and loaded with pure fruit and French oak shadings.  Gorgeous silky texture, with a finish lasting in excess of 35 seconds.  The 14.8% alcohol isn't noticeable.  At 10 years old, it's ready now but will last for another 10 years.  About $75?

-  July 2, 2013

Bodegas Olarra Rioja Reserva Otañal 2005.  Very deep ruby color.  A dusty edge to the cherry, mocha, and anise scents, but with time, more beautiful violet notes show up.  Medium-bodied.  Finishes strong, showing some power and intensity.  Nice value, combining mostly old school Rioja with solid fruit.  Give this some air to reveal the nuance.  Drink now through 2017.  About $15.

-  July 1, 2013

Château La Moutete Rosé Grande Reserve 2012 (Cotes de Provence).  Peach/copper color.  Smells earthy, but with hints of dark berries and red apples, which show up with more force on the palate.  Solid balance and with some heft, this is a more sturdy French rosé.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  June 30, 2013

Guido Natalino Gavi di Gavi La Caplana 2012.  Delightful, with an interesting light green melon, citrus, and fresh cut herb quality.  Refreshing, but not simple, showing some minerals on the finish.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  June 27, 2013

Felsina Chianti Colli Senesi Castello di Farnetella 2010.  Classic Sangiovese notes of dusty dried cherry and tobacco, plus licorice, smoke, and bitter chocolate.  Medium-bodied, with lively (but not obtrusive) acidity. Give this some air to open up, so that the plum flavors push out on the finish.  Drink now through 2017.  About $16.

-  June 26, 2013

Vitiano Bianco 2011 (Umbria).  Composed of half Verdicchio and half Vermentino, this used to be labeled with the actual producer of Vitiano, which is now absent on the label.  Anyway, notes of lemon, subtle nuttiness (almonds?), metal, and a pleasant hint of petroleum.  Pleasant, with good energy and solid finish for the price.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  June 25, 2013

Château Jouclary Rosé 2011 (Cabardès Protégée).  This Languedoc value is salmon/copper colored and food friendly.  Mostly blood orange flavors, plus something bitter (in a good way).  Fresh and interesting.  Made from Cabernet Franc, Grenache, and Cinsault.  Drink now.  About $12. 

-  June 24 2013

Pierre Péters Blanc de Blanc Cuvée de Réserve Champagne Non-Vintage.  From Grand Cru vineyards of Le Mesnil sur Oger comes this lively, beautiful expression of Chardonnay.  Hints of green in hue, but otherwise very clear.  Lemon curd, white flowers, blanched almond, graham cracker, and green apple notes.  Very precise beginning, then turning more powerful with air.  Fantastic.  Disgorged in February 2011.  Drink now through 2015.  About $50.

-  June 23, 2013

Château Pesquie Rosé Terrasses 2012 (Ventoux).  Beautiful.  Reminiscent of spring flowers, all manner of berries, orange rind, clover, and red apple.  Fantastic acidity and harmony, finishing with a burst of fruit and structure.  Made from 50% Cinsault, 40% Grenache, and 10% Syrah.  Drink now through 2015.  About $13.

-  June 22, 2013

Mason Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Pomelo 2011 (California).  Made in a New Zealand style, with lots of pure white grapefruit and freshly crushed herbs (thyme/chives).  Not much complexity, but very easy to like, especially on a hot summer day.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  June 6, 2013

Villa Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2010.  Deep color, with notes of black/blue fruit, orange rind, coffee, ink, and dried herbs.  Full-bodied and rich, this is modern in style, with great concentration.  Doesn't really scream Chianti, but clearly comes from good fruit.  Drink now through 2018.  About $30.

-  June 5, 2013

Château de Campuget Rosé Tradition de Campuget 2012 (Costieres de Nimes).  Vibrant and inviting in spite of the slight cheese/soap aromas.  Lots of grapefruit, watermelon, and blood orange notes, with deft acidity.  Made from 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah.  Go on a picnic with this in your cooler.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  June 4, 2013

Calera Pinot Noir 2008 (Central Coast).  Brick red, with a hint of rust color.  Cherry cola, pine, smoke, plum, and mocha notes, this tells a great story in the mouth.  Great acidity, wonderful balance and overall harmony.  Last tasted in October 2010, this was the winner of a group tasting.  Still holding strong, so drink now through 2017.  About $23.

-  June 3, 2013

Ferraton Pére & Fils Côtes du Rhone Rosé Samorëns 2012.  Pretty color, with cranberry, raspberry, and peach scents.  Nice acidity and presence on the palate, showing watermelon flavors.  Expressive and great with food.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  June 1, 2013

Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (Marlborough).  Lots of zesty, zippy lime, gooseberry, grass, and passion fruit notes that are very New Zealand.  Very easygoing and not challenging, but that's OK for this price.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  May 31, 2013

Las Rocas de San Alejandro Rosé 2012 (Calatayud).  Almost neon pink in color, this is an overtly fruity style that's reigned in by good acidity, plus an earthy note.  Raspberry and watermelon flavors, with good depth.  Drink now.  About $10.

-  May 30, 2013

Domaine d'Andezon Côtes du Rhône 2011.  Solid wild berry scents, then undergrowth, blueberry, lavender, and smoke.  Nice adicity, with a pleasing texture that shows fine tannins and balanced fruit.  Nicely done.  Drink now through 2017.  About $13.

-  May 29, 2013

Roederer Estate Brut L'Ermitage 2003 (Anderson Valley).  Lively.  Shows baked apple pie scents (including the cinnamon/nutmeg), plus citrus, bread dough, and additional red apple notes.  Full-bodied and rich, with flavors of candied orange rind, smoke, and red fruit.  Really well made, in a more oxidative style.  Drink now through 2016.  About $45.

-  May 27, 2013

Joseph Drouhin Chablis Moulin de Vaudon 2010.  Slightly green in hue, with a nose of crushed limestone, pear, and white flowers.  More of that limestone note in the mouth, plus light citrus and white peach.  Nice balance and focus, this is pleasing and easy to like.  Drink now.  About $20.

-  May 26, 2013

Château Lafite Rothschild 1999 (Pauillac).  Rich nose of dark fruit that's refined and inviting, hinting at plums, charcoal/pencil lead, dark wet soil, and roses.  Medium-bodied and extremely elegant, this comes off as a wine with everything in the right place.  Rust, tobacco, and scorched earth notes.  Graceful and effortless, with outstanding purity.  Ready now, but has enough tannin to last another ten years.  About $800.

-  May 25, 2013

Chéreau-Carré Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Château de la Chesnaie 2012.  Lemon, wet stone, and white peach notes that are clean and crisp, finishing dry.  Perfect for a hot day with a seafood salad.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  May 24, 2013

Yalumba The Signature 2001 (Barossa).  Made from 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Shiraz, and spends 20 months in both American and French oak.  Opaque, with a striking perfume of blackberries, vanilla, boysenberries, mocha, cassis, and melted asphalt.  Full-bodied, but not heavy, with sweet tannin, excellent balance, and wonderful persistence.  Really gorgeous.  Last tasted in March 2008.  Drink now through 2019.  About $50.

-  May 23, 2013

Dominio del Plata Crios Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 (Mendoza).  Freshly brewed coffee and cranberry scents frame this full-bodied value.  Showing sweet tannin, with smoke, cassis, plum, and fresh herb flavors, there's higher acidity here, but that shouldn't dissuade you.  Drink now through 2016.  About $15.

-  May 22, 2013

Senorio de Barahonda Carro 2011 (Yecla).  Complex nose, featuring dark spices (pepper/cloves), lavender, espresso, plums, cola, and licorice.  Medium-bodied, with notable acidity, but also dark fruit and mocha notes.  Energetic finish, plus great purity.  A fantastic value, this is one to buy by the case.  Drink now through 2016.  About $10.

-  May 21, 2013

Cave du Vendomois Lieu-dit Cocagne Rosé 2012 (Côteaux du Vendomois).  Made from 100% Pineau d'Aunis, this offers some smoke and stone notes to go with the predominantly red grapefruit flavors.  Super-bright,  bordering on being too tart, but manages to stay together on the darker finish.  Drink now. About $11.

-  May 20, 2013

Villa des Anges Rosé Old Vines 2012 (Pays d'Oc).  Made from 100% Cinsault from 35-40 year old vines, this light pink/salmon colored rosé is a wonderful summertime value.  Flowers, peaches, raspberries, and orange rind are all displayed on a vibrant, likeable frame.  Pair this with almost anything you would take on a picnic.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  May 19, 2013

Domaine de la Quilla Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2011.  Stony nose.  Reminiscent of meyer lemon, plus river rock and hints of oranges.  Solid.  Not outstanding, but the citrus brightness really sings on the finish.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  May 16, 2013

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (Marlborough).  Fresh and inviting, with notes of key lime, clementines, gooseberry, grass, kiwi, and hints of passion fruit.  On the subtle side for a New Zealand Sauv Blanc, but the elegance is what draws you in, especially the mineral notes.  Pretty.  Drink now.  About $25.

-  May 14, 2013

McManis Viognier 2009 (California).  Light yellow color.  Complex notes of wax, peaches, melon, oranges, lychee, and oil.  Full-bodied.  Nice finish, showing good length and volume, especially for the price.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  May 13, 2013

Sierra Salinas Puerto Salinas 2009 (Alicante).  Shows a nose of freshly brewed coffee, blood/iron, and blackberries.  Surprisingly bright in acidity, with flavors of dark fruit, mocha, and smoke.  Medium to full-bodied, with admirable purity, this is also an excellent value.  Drink now through 2016.  About $16.

-  May 12, 2103

Falesco Vitiano Rosato 2012 (Umbria).  Bright orange/pink color, and exhibits no shortage of fruit (strawberries/cherries/watermelon/citrus).  Has just enough adicity, plus some slight pleasant bitterness on this finish.  An almost juicy style of rosé.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  May 11, 2013

Martín Códax Albariño 2011 (Rías Baixas).  Bright and zippy, like a squeeze of a not-so-tart lemon, plus herbs like chives and parsley.  Lots of minerals on the nose.  Begs for clams.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  May 8, 2013

Bodegas Caro Amancaya Gran Reserva 2011 (Mendoza).  Opaque purple/red.  Complex nose, starting off dusty and a bit funky, but then moves to scents of cola, anise, prune, spring flowers, cloves, and dark briary fruit.  Medium-bodied, with solid tannins in a masculine style.  Give this some air.  Made from 70% Malbec, and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon.  Drink now through 2019.  About $17.

-  May 7, 2013

Terredora DiPaolo Falanghina 2011 (Irpinia).  Very clear, featuring scents of white peaches, flowers, and minerals.  Pleasant stone fruit and apple flavors, hinting at bitter herbs on the dry finish.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  May 6, 2013

Barco de Piedra 2011 (Ribera del Duero).  Made from 100% Tempranillo.  Offers a complex nose of campfire, forest floor, cherries, licorice, and hints of leather.  Medium-bodied.  Admirable intensity and purity that grows in volume in the mouth, showing flavors of blackberry, black cherry, and ink, supported by fine tannins.  Drink now through 2018.  About $15.

-  May 2, 2013

Byron Pinot Noir 2011 (Santa Barbara County).  Deep in color, and showing great purity, with focused aromas of dark cherry, pine needles, cola, licorice, and iced tea.  Nice silky texture.  Falls a little short on finish, but is still worth recommending.  Drink now through 2015.  About $20.

-  May 1, 2013

De Morgenzon Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2012 (Western Cape).  Like a red watermelon in color, with a green quality to the nose, slightly herbal, with fresh berries.  Flavors of white peppercorn and raspberries, this is a savory style with a penchant for food.  Good structure.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  April, 30, 2013

Piazzo Chardonnay 2011 (Piemonte).  Pale yellow, with a clean, wet river rock nose, hinting at white peach and lemon zest.  Nice concentration, with good depth of citrus/tropical fruit and subtle herbal notes.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  April 28, 2013

Baron de Magaña 2007 (Navarra). Plush, rich texture supports flavors of ink, leather, charcoal, and spices, along with lots of blue/black fruit (blueberry, prunes, wild blackberry, and plums).  Long, fruit-filled finish.  Really well crafted.  Spends 14 months in French oak.  Made from 35% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Tempranillo, and 10% Syrah.  Drink now through 2018.  About $22.

-  April 25, 2013

Chateau Ste. Michelle Merlot Canoe Ridge Estate 2010 (Horse Heaven Hills).  Effusive nose of deep plum and black cherry scents, plus freshly brewed coffee and vanilla.  Plump, satiny texture, with resonant dark fruit, burning ember, and mocha flavors.  Long finish, and admirable purity.  Drink now through 2017.  About $25.

-  April 24, 2013

Portal do Fidalgo Alvarinho 2010 (Vinho Verde).  Vibrant nose of crushed limestone and citrus rind. Not especially complex or intriguing, but pleasing with its mineral/tangerine profile.  Bring on the seafood.  Drink now.  About $14.

-  April 23, 2013

Castaño Molino Loco 2011 (Yecla).  Made from 80% Monastrell and 20% Syrah, this value red shows outstanding density for not much money.  Black, briary fruit, as well as charcoal, espresso, and hints of anise.  Real focus and flavor for the price.  Drink now through 2015.  About $9.

-  April 22, 2013

Domaine Houchart Rosé 2012 (Côtes de Provence).  Appealing pink-copper color, and offering notes of raspberry, peach, oranges, and flowers.  Pleasing, almost sharp acidity that keeps you coming back for more.  Made from Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Mourvedre.  Really enjoyable, and consistent over the years.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  April 21, 2013

Gallo Pinot Noir Signature Series 2010 (Santa Lucia Highlands).  Pretty, dark garnet color.  Effusive, with showy cherry and plum fruit, plus good vanilla and mocha shadings.  A nice herbal and stone quality on the finish, where the acidity keeps everything in check.  A bigger style, at nearly 15% alcohol.  Drink now through 2017.  About $25.

-  April 20, 2013

Cesari Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore Mara 2010.  Classic in style, with ink, cola, anise, tobacco, and charcoal notes, plus hints of leather.  Medium-bodied.  A real kick on the finish of both structure and dried fruit.  Ready now, but will last through 2018.  About $20

-  April 19, 2013

Inama Soave Classico 2011.  A lovely Soave, with white peach, lemon, fresh herb qualities.  Supple, fresh, and pretty.  Drink now.  About $14.

-  April 18, 2013

Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (Marlborough).  Lime zest and lime juice, plus hints of passion fruit, orange, gooseberry, and grass.  Fun and inviting.  Very New Zealand, in the positive sense of it.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  April 17, 2013

Feudo Arancio Grillo Stemmari 2011 (Sicilia).  A pleasant, cheap, everyday white, showing no flaws, with modest proportions.  Floral nose, with fresh herbs and Meyer lemon notes.  Drink right away.  About $8.

-  April 16, 2013

Trentadue Merlot La Storia 2010 (Alexander Valley).  Loaded with plump blackberry, plum, cocoa, and cassis notes.  A more dense, decently structured Merlot, finishing with a peppery hint.  Good texture.  Drink now through 2016.  About $25.

-  April 15, 2013

Telmo Rodriquez Basa 2011 (Rueda).  Refreshing and bright, with focused notes of lemon and lime peel, almonds, white peaches, and subtle grassy hints.  Nicely balanced.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  April 14, 2013

Izadi Viura Rioja 2010.  Made from 80% Viura, with 20% Malvasia.  Intriguing nose, with a medicinal/herbal quality, plus hints of green olive that also show on the palate.  Clean and with good concentration, this builds to reveal some intensity on the finish.  Drink now through 2015.  About $15.

-  April 13, 2013

Dominio del Plata Rosé of Malbec 2012 (Mendoza).  A pretty light red color, showing a flashy brightness in the glass.  The nose suggests a bunch of wildflowers, plus watermelon and raspberries.  Good depth and vibrancy, especially on the finish, where some nice herbal shadings are evident.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  April 11, 2013

Honig Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (Napa Valley).  Expressive nose of dark plums and black cherry, with a little bit of coffee.  Medium to full-bodied, showing a bright attack, then moves to a voluminous mid-palate of more dark fruit and mocha notes, with ripe tannins on the finish.  For a Napa Cab, this is an outstanding value.  Drink now through 2018.  About $40.

-  April 10, 2013

Domaine Lafage Côte Est 2011 (Côtes Catalanes).  Made from 50% Grenache Blanc, 30% Chardonnay, and 20% Marsanne, this unusual white blend has plenty of verve and freshness.  Notes of orange blossom, green melon, white flowers, crushed rocks, and limes.  Fantastic value.  Drink now.  About $11.

-  April 8, 2013

Magaña Dignus 2007 (Navarra).  Deep color.  Black/blue fruits on the nose (especially plums), plus licorice and freshly brewed coffee.  Tasty.  Great balance and energy, with ripe, fine tannins.  The blueberry notes really sing on the finish.  Excellent value.  Drink now through 2018.  About $17.

-  April 7, 2013

Alois Lageder Pinot Bianco 2011 (Dolomiti).  With a nose of crushed limestone, this also hints at lime zest and tangerine.  Shows real purity and focus in the mouth to the expressive ripe citrus flavors, but also notes of mango and guava.  Great zesty acidity holds this together, and keeps you coming back for more.  Drink now.  About $15.

-  April 6, 2013

Damilano Barolo Lecinquevigne 2008.  Light ruby color.  Really gorgeous nose, super elegant, and filled with roses, plus mint and hints of mushroom.  Good attack, long finish, and very pretty.  Seductive.  Finishes with fine tannins and acidity that are balanced and refreshing.  Drink now through 2018.  About $42.

-  April 5, 2013

Schramsburg Blanc de Blancs 2009 (North Coast).  Bread dough, candied ginger, apple pie, and lemon zest notes on a vibrant frame.  Shows some richness (and some spice) on the long finish.  Really holds your interest.  Ready now, but will last for another few years.  About $30.

-  April 4, 2013

Olivier Leflaive Les Sétilles Bourgogne Blanc 2010.  Very clear.  Shows scents of green apple, limestone, hints of mint, and no oak.  Clean and bright, with very subtle butterscotch shades on the finish.  Uncomplicated without being innocuous.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  April 3, 2013

Domaine de Cristia Chateauneuf du Pape 2010.  Filled with smoke scents, along with spices (mostly black pepper), cherry, seaweed/iodine.  More pepper in the mouth, plus cranberry and blueberry flavors.  Dark, intense and deep, but not heavy, with youthful, ripe tannins on the finish. Good now, but will be better in a couple of years.  About $45.

-  April 1, 2013

Domaine du Tariquet Classic Blanc 2011 (Côtes de Gascogne).  Dry and zippy, with green apple, pear, sugar cane, and floral notes.  Finishes with a kaffir lime kick.  Refreshing and enjoyable, for very little money.  Made from 45% Ugni Blanc, 35% Colombard, 10% Sauvignon Blanc, and 10% Gros Manseng.  Drink now.  About $8.

-  March 31, 2013

Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (Napa Valley).  Opaque.  Plush, dense, and wonderfully fruity, but also scents of tobacco, leather, and black earth.  Dominated by plum and black cherry flavors, along with eucalyptus.  Full-bodied, with moderate tannin level.  Great right now, but will hold for another 3-4 years.  About $40.

-  March 30, 2013

Columna Albariño 2011 (Rias Baixas).  Green-yellow in color, with notes of green melon, red apple, honey, and hints of rubber glove.  Elegant but also concentrated in flavor, with an intriguing character to it.  Made from vines planted in 1978.  Drink now.  About $14.

-  March 29, 2013

Charles de Cazanove Brut Champagne Non-Vintage.  Lots of white grapefruit, wheat biscuit, and red berry notes on a solid, structured frame.  Ends with a lingering notion of spices and hints of rhubarb.  Moderate intensity, but holds your interest with its length.  Drink now.  About $38.

-  March 24, 2013

Bodegas Vinae Mureri Xiloca Garnacha 2011 (Ribera del Jiloca).  Young and easygoing, with a light ruby color.  Notions of forest floor to go with the cherry and plum notes.  Made for early pleasure.  About $10.

-  March 15, 2013

El Coto de Rioja Imaz Reserva 2005.  Deep ruby in color, and offers plenty of new oak scents, with hints of cream, tart cherry, tobacco, and black pepper.  Medium-bodied, with high, but pleasing acidity that carry the predominantly cherry flavors.  Ends with a lasting impression of spice.  Drink now through 2016.  About $22.

-  March 8, 2013

Domaine de la Janasse Côtes du Rhône Villages Terre d'Argile 2010.  Smoke, seaweed, espresso, meat, and bitter chocolate scents emerge from this dark colored beauty from vineyards next to Chateauneuf du Pape.  Dense and powerful, showing real class and focus, with dark fruit and mocha notes.  Excellent intensity and tasty tannins for the price.  Made from 40% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 30% Mourvedre. Good now, but will be better in a year or two, and will last through 2019.  About $23.

-  March 3, 2013

La Cartuja 2011 (Priorat).  Composed of 71% Garnacha plus 30% Cariñena, and offering scents of smoke and flowers.  There's brightness to this, bordering on zippy, with flavors of red berry, licorice, black plums, and charcoal.  Great depth for the price.  Drink now through 2016.  About $15.

-  March 2, 2013

Domaine Giraud Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition 2009.  A deep, succulent, and resonant wine filled with fantastic cherry/blueberry notes that are pure and effortless.  Full-bodied, extracted, and very, very long.  Hints of cinnamon and clove.  Outstanding.  Drink now through 2025.  About $50.

-  February 24, 2013

Famille Perrin Vinsobres Les Cornuds 2010.  Really well-made, with black tea, graphite, dark fruit, and smoke notes.  Lots of acidity, but stays on the right side of being tart, with great definition and texture.  Give this some time in the glass (or decant) before drinking.  Great now, but will last another 6 years.  About $18.

-  February 22, 2013

Bodegas Vetus Flor de Vetus 2009 (Toro).  Penetrating aromas of milk chocolate, red/black cherries, and fresh coffee. Beautiful, velvety texture, with excellent density and length.  The minerality and beef blood notes really sing on the finish.  Drink now through 2018.  About $16.

-  February 21 ,2013

Thierry Massin Blanc de Noirs Selection Champagne Non-Vintage.  Reminiscent of small red berries and lemon peel, this 100% Pinot Noir from a small producer is very elegant, with lots of zippy acidity and verve.  Lively bead, and very good length.  Opens up to reveal bread dough and wheat thin notes with time.  Ready now, but will be fine in a few years also.  About $40.

-  February 20, 2013

Chateau Bellevue La Forêt 2011 (Fronton).  A tasty rosé made from 60% Negrette, 20% Gamay, 10% Syrah, and 10% Cabernet Franc.  Crisp and full of raspberry, lemon, cherry, and hints of spice.  Inviting.  Drink now.  About $12.

-  February 19, 2013

Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (Marlborough).  Very New Zealand, offering expressive notes of gooseberry, grapefruit, and grassy notes.  Slightly better than your average, with nice definition and volume.  Drink now.  About $13.

-  February 18, 2013

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli 1997.  Excellent focus on the nose, with tobacco, cherry, cola, lavender, and date scents.  Medium-bodied, and really beautiful in the mouth, with great intensity and waves of flavor.  Seamless.  Extremely long finish.  Fantastic Brunello.  At it's peak, but will last for another 5 years.  About $175.

-  February 17, 2013

Piper-Heidsick Brut Champagne Non-Vintage.  There's some nuttiness to go along with the red berries, bread dough, red apple, and toffee notes.  Bordering on hefty in weight, with very good purity and a lengthy finish.  One of my favorite regular non-vintage Champagnes.  Drink now.  About $40.

-  February 12, 2013

St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (Napa Valley).  Greenish in tint and extremely New Zealand in style, with loads of gooseberry, grass, clementine, and lime notes.  Zesty, bright, with slightly more body than most, this throws down great white grapefruit flavors.  Thirst quenching.  Drink now.  About $16.

-  February 11, 2013

Montes Pinot Noir Limited Selection 2009 (Casablanca Valley).  A bit funky, but also good bright cherry, tobacco, cola, and lavender notes.  Supple texture, in a lighter style, finishing with mocha flavors.  Drink now.  About $16.

-  February 10, 2013

K Vintners Syrah Wahluke Slope 2007 (Columbia Valley).  White pepper and flowers to go with the dark fruit and incense notes.  Full-bodied, with plushness and supportive acidity at the same time.  Briary notes come out on the finish, along with freshly brewed coffee.  Not as good as the previous vintage, but still well-done.  Drink now through 2019.  About $30.

-  February 9, 2013

Bonny Doon Vineyard Grenache Clos de Gilroy 2010 (Central Coast).  Made from 75% Grenache, 12% Syrah, and 13% Cinsault in a Southern Rhone style, with lots of dried herb and dusty cherry qualities.  Smoke, pencil lead, pepper, and notions of blackberry, with definite power and focus.  Very French in style.  Drink with cassoulet.  Ready now, but will last another 6 years.  About $20.

-  February 8, 2013

Cantina del Taburno Falanghina del Sannio 2011.  Smells and tastes likes the essence of crushed limestone and minerals.  Hints of honey and clementines as it warms, but the stone quality really stands out.  Fascinating, and very clean.  Drink now.  About $15.

-  February 5, 2013

Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2012.  Jumps from the glass with aromas of key lime, passion fruit, and kiwi.  Mostly gooseberry in the mouth with hints of grass, and some honey on the finish.  Bright, zesty, but well-balanced and juicy.  Not your average New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.  Drink now.  About $16.

-  February 4, 2013

Four Vines Anarchy 2006 (Paso Robles).  A blend of 32% Syrah, 32% Zinfandel, and 36% Mourvedre, made in a ripe, potent style.  Mocha, prunes, blueberry, and cola aromas come before a dense, smoky palate.  Full-bodied, with enough acidity to keep it together.  15% alcohol.  Great with barbecue.  Drink now through 2017.  About $33.

-  February 3, 2013

Magellan Rosé