The July blind tasting was slightly different than our usual format, where instead of comparing wines from the same appellation, we selected whites produced on different islands across the globe. Credit goes to Jamie for coming up with this idea, and although these bottles mostly tasted very different from each other, many had some similar saline notes, as well as minerality.
Just a single point separated the first and second place wines this night, with the winner being a saline and energetic bottle from Corsica, followed by a pretty Assyrtiko from Santorini. The best value of the night was an approachable Chardonnay from Tasmania in third place.
We knew which islands were represented at the beginning of the tasting, but we did not know the order that they were poured. It should be noted that we were terrible at figuring out which was glass was which island. Practice needed!
Photography by Andy.
First Place: Domaine de Marquiliani Rosé Gris de Marquiliani 2022 (Vin de Corse). Made from Sciaccarellu and a bit of Syrah, this could be considered in the rosé category, but only had a bare hint of color, looking and drinking more like a white. Tasters found some funky scents of something decaying, like compost or soil underneath pine needles, but also citrus, chalk, rubber eraser, green herbs, and bubble gum toothpaste. Andy noted "a little death." Saline on the palate, with nice texture, and flavors of white peach and lemon. Long finish. Jamie noted that "it's not lazy", while Josephine felt that it "reveals itself by degrees." Jamie and David's favorite of the night. Received 25 points. Josephine's bottle. About $30.
Second Place: Greek Wine Cellars Assyrtiko 2022 (Santorini). Eraser, putty, cut grass, and some minerality on the nose, with a floral quality that Josephine described as "heliotrope." Good attack featuring lime peel flavors, moving to fresh herbs and gooseberries. Not a super-long finish, but pretty and enjoyable. Ali was reminded of "those turquoise candles that are supposed to smell like the beach." Andy and Josephine's favorite. 24 points. Andy's bottle. About $32.
Third Place: Devil's Corner Chardonnay 2022 (Tasmania). Smelled fresh, like white flowers and under-ripe stone fruit, with a saline note reminiscent of sea air, but also wet stones, yogurt, hay, and an oily quality. Stone fruit (mainly apricot) on the palate, plus flavors of almonds, green herbs, and granny smith apple. Good acidity, with some minerality on the finish. Tangy. Approachable. Andy detected a "burnt hair" note. Ali and Kristin's favorite. 21 points. Ali's bottle. About $22.
Casa d'Ambra Ischia Bianco 2022. Scents of chalkboard, crushed up shells, spearmint, graphite, marshmallow, Honeycrisp apple, honeysuckle, and a hint of cherry. A floral component reminded Josephine of a "wildflower meadow." Nice texture, with flavors of warm spices, toasty vanilla and coconut, then an apple pie finish. Rather rich. 14 points. David's bottle. About $23.
Azores Wine Company Branco Vulcânico 2021 (Açores). Tasters found dusty scents, along with notions of campfire, shoe leather, wet paper bag, bruised yellow apple, toasted hazelnuts, burnt marshmallow, motor oil, mustard seed, and salted caramel. More of that mustard seed quality on the palate, plus coriander and a woody plywood finish. Andy noted that it would pair well with a hot dog. No points. Kristin's bottle. About $38.
Macari Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (North Fork of Long Island). Noticeably cloudy in appearance, this exhibited funky aromas of body odor, dirty diaper, slightly past cheese, preserved lemon, iodine, plastic, and marmalade. A little fecal. Somewhat reminiscent of a hefeweizen beer. Andy was reminded of "pancakes with some fruit on top." Not unpleasant in the mouth, but tasted more like Country Time lemonade or a shandy than wine, with a hint of tonic water. Odd. No points. Jamie's bottle. About $28.
JULY 2024: THE BATTLE OF THE ISLAND WHITES
