Barbaresco never lets us down. This month’s comparison was further evidence of this, with all entries offering beautiful expressions of Nebbiolo and a grounding sense of place.
All bottles shared similar cherry, rose petal, and forest characteristics, but they were also very different from each other, showing diverging levels of intensity and textures, making each unique and individually enjoyable.
The voting was close. Only three points separated the winner from two bottles that tied for second-place. One bottle received no points, but none would turn down an offered glass of it.
Some photography help by Andy.
First Place: Cascina Roccalini Barbaresco Roccalini 2021. Tasters found a complex, earthy nose of red roses, cherries, freshly brewed coffee, eucalyptus, pine needles, wet forest floor, perfume, inner tube, and hints of smoke. Pretty. Youthful. Impressive in the mouth, with plenty of tannin and great lift of acidity, supporting dark cherry, blueberry, dark coffee, asparagus, and plum flavors. Licorice and something a little medicinal on the finish. Excellent balance. Andy suggested to Ali that “You wouldn’t kick this out of bed”, and Josephine noted a “slight bitter edge that reminds me of Campari.” Andy and Kristin’s favorite of the night, with a total of 27 points. Josephine’s bottle. About $65.
Second Place (tie): Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco 2022. A little shy initially, revealing scents of crushed rocks, burnt tire, raw chicken, dark spices, roses, and leaves. Josephine was reminded of “canvas sneaker with a rubber sole.” Excellent intensity, with more concentration than the others this night, showing focus and outstanding balance. Starts off slow, then hits you with an impressive mid-palate of prunes and darker fruit. Ali was impressed by “the flavor of funk.” David and Josephine’s favorite. 24 points. Andy’s bottle. About $55.
Second Place (tie): Ceretto Barbaresco 2020. Some funky mushroom aromas, plus rose petals, cooked pork, blue cheese, Ajax, fall garden, black olives, and cinnamon. Like cherry cola on the palate, then that cinnamon note again, along with pumpkin spice, leather, dried orange peel, and black pepper. Great texture. Black cherry on the finish. Somewhat brooding. High acidity. Ali & Addy’s favorite. 24 points. David’s bottle. About $90.
Third Place: Tenute Neirano Barbaresco 2022. Smelled brighter than most, with a fruit-forward profile that also included notions of menthol, pine, iodine, spicy licorice, wet log, loamy soil, and something vegetal. Round and friendly in the mouth, having an approachable character, with flavors of warming spices and blueberries, then mushrooms and espresso on the finish. 6 points. Addy’s bottle. About $40.
Mura Mura Barbaresco Iago 2022. Tasters found scents of iodine, cooked sugar, caramelized onion, cooked green vegetables, and apple pie. Youthful, with a slight metallic edge. Like cherries and roses on the palate, then licorice, metal, meat juices, blackberries, and raspberries. Not quite as tannic as some this night. Energetic and exuberant. 3 points. Ali’s bottle. About $45.
Massimo Rivetti Barbaresco Froi 2018. Unusually fruity nose, showing red delicious apple, mango, oranges, forest floor, red roses, and peach schnapps. Something slightly artificial or plastic. Josephine was reminded of “strawberry soaking in something alcoholic.” A hint of acetone. David detected flavors of “petroleum byproduct”, while Josephine noted “meat char.” Others found coffee and light cherry flavors. Nice texture, good intensity. No points. Kristin’s bottle. About $40.
