The last time we blind tasted Barolo at our monthly gathering was early in the pandemic, where due to social distancing rules we had only four tasters, seated at opposite ends of our table. So, we were eager to bring this topic back with the full complement of tasters and enjoy one our favorite appellations.
Rather unusually, the second-place wine turned out to be the same bottling as our last-place wine, showing that bottle variation can be a real issue. No taster guessed that these were identical wines. In our blind format, one was much more expressive and generous, while the other was certainly a very good wine, but seemed more muted and lacked length. Tasting them side-by-side the next day confirmed this.
Our favorite bottle exhibited complex, earthy scents, combined with gorgeous texture and excellent balance. The best value of the night came in third place at only $35, a rare price for this lofty appellation. Overall, these were very good to flat-out outstanding wines, and we ended the night satisfied and very happy, smiles all around after so many excellent bottles of Nebbiolo.
First Place: Silvano Bolmida Barolo Le Coste di Monforte 2018. Rusty, brick color. Tasters found complex scents of rare steak, iron, iodine, clean dirt, seaweed, and pinecone. Had a freshness to it, like sheets hanging on the line, or soap. Reminiscent of whatever "fresh scent" is on a bottle of cleanser. Gorgeous texture, with earthy, mushroom flavors, but also cherries, tar, black pepper, and roses. Surrounds your palate, having a tannic finish, and a burst acidity. Josephine noted that "I can drink that one all day." Kristin, Josephine, and David's favorite of the night, with a total of 27 points. Andy's bottle. About $48.
Second Place: Paolo Scavino Barolo 2020. A hint of orange around the edge, with a nose hinting at funk, then mushrooms, forest floor, fall leaves, dried orange peel, blueberries, and chalkboard. Earthy, or perhaps like a little bit of decay, similar to dark red roses on their way out. More round in texture and silkier, but also tannic on the finish, offering flavors of plum skin, blueberries, cedar, and vanilla. Shows ripeness and generosity, but is also more elegant and refined, plus plenty of acidity. Matt and Ali's favorite of the night. 23 points. Josephine's bottle. About $50.
Third Place: Monchiero Carbone Barolo 2019. Hint of orange or rust color. Like roses, freshly brewed coffee, and worn leather on the nose, plus a powdery note, like talc. Pretty. With air, notes of cherries, violets, pine resin, thyme, bitter chocolate, cloves, and vintage lipstick emerge. Andy was reminded of "a cozy chair", while Matt thought of "a nana's vanity." Tannic in the mouth, but also very, very enjoyable and a little meaty, like a rare steak, finishing very long, with a rosemary and pine note, though perhaps a touch hot. Received 14 points. Matt's bottle. About $35.
Pio Cesare Barolo 2009. Relatively dark in color. Reminiscent of tomato stems, leaves, roses, sage, wood-fired pizza, and smoke scents. Suggestions of bacon fat, brown paper bag, and dust. Andy thought of "margherita pizza." Tasters found flavors of milk chocolate and pomegranate, with excellent texture and tannic definition, then an uplift of acidity on the finish, keeping it alive. A hint of cola on the close. Andy's favorite. 12 points. David's bottle. About $70.
Mauro Molino Barolo Gallinotto 2019. Metallic nose that reminded David of "hot cast iron pan", while others found scents of roasted chestnuts, warm coffee, hazelnuts, smoke, and old book. Ali thought of an "eggplant cooking", and Andy noted "wet log on the fire." Lots of fruit on the attack, like dark red cherries, then black licorice on the finish. Very tannic and more brooding, but finishes long, though a touch hot. 8 points Ali's bottle. About $56.
Paolo Scavino Barolo 2020. More youthful in color, with slight hints of purple. Notes of chalkboard and talc on the nose, this comes off as slightly shy initially, then later moving toward hints of cinnamon, nutmeg, asphalt, cherries, red roses, and sand. Andy was reminded of a "nice hand soap." Lacks a little elegance in the mouth, showing more fruit than some of the others, like mandarin oranges and cherries, but ends quickly, where the tannins mix with notions of dark spices, leather, and vanilla on the finish. Tasters felt like this needed some time to evolve. No points. Kristin's bottle. About $55.
JANUARY 2025: BAROLO BATTLE #4
