Our fourth comparison of wines from Amarone della Valpolicella was thoroughly enjoyable, as one would expect from this highly-regarded appellation. The top wines showed great intensity and generosity, but were also balanced by solid acidity and focus. The winner turned out to be the best value of the night at a reasonable $62. Reasonable for Amarone, that is.
We did notice the elevated alcohol levels of these wines, not because they were out of balance, but simply because they started out at a minimum of 15.5% alcohol, and went all the way up to 17%. One does not casually throw these back, or if one does, be prepared for a hefty hangover.
Two bottles received no points -- they were not bad wines, but they did not meet our expectations of what an Amarone should be. One lacked the intensity and structure, while the other tasted like an LBV Port.
Some photography by Andy.
First Place: Ca' la Bionda Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Ravazzól 2018. Tasters found complex scents of dairy, charcoal, prunes, raisins, meat, shitake mushroom, and bare hint of decay (in a good way). Great balance and intensity on the palate, tasting like a cherry reduction sauce, with licorice on the long finish. Delicious. Beautiful texture. Good acidity that keeps it from being flabby. Keeps evolving in the glass. 16.5% alcohol. Andy P, David, Ali, and Resa's favorite of the night, with a total of 32 points. Ali's bottle. About $62.
Second Place: Prá Amarone della Valpolicella Morandina 2017. Brick in color, with scents of ground dark spices, cedar, olives, coriander, cumin, campfire, and dried herbs. Dark and dusty, smelling like old clothes. Tasting like mezcal, dried oregano, and cinnamon, with dark fruit through the mid-palate, finishing with licorice or Dr. Pepper note. Mouthwatering acidity. Sophisticated. Andy noted that "All the flavors are good friends." 17% alcohol. Kristin and Andy R's favorite. 28 points. Kristin's bottle. About $96.
Third Place: Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2020. The nose reminded tasters of a Sears tire shop or rubber glove, but also wet charcoal and burnt wood. The palate was absolutely delicious, however, with complex flavors of raspberries, blackberries, cinnamon, orange peel, cloves, cooked tomatoes, quinine, and hints of leather and rye. Long finish. Good acidity. 16% alcohol. 14 points. Andy P's wine. About $80.
Buglioni Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Il Lussurioso 2018. A little brighter in color compared to most, with a dusty nose, hinting at olive brine, dried leaves, wet wool, and a vegetal note. Andy P was reminded of Play Doh. Mouthcoating texture, with flavors of licorice, dark cherry, blueberry, and hints of bacon. Good balance, but not as long on the finish. 16% alcohol. 10 points. David's bottle. About $70.
Albino Armani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2020. Lighter and brighter in color. Tasters found scents of cran-orange juice, mulled wine, clean clothes, citron, panettone with candied fruits, incense, lemon curd, mint, and vanilla. Ali was reminded of "Italian Easter table." Like almonds or amaretto in the mouth, this was bright and fresh, reminding Andy P of "Italian Christmas." Ali noted that "it does not taste as expensive as the others." Not as concentrated or intense, tasting more like a very good Valpolicella. 15.5% alcohol. No points. Resa's bottle. About $50.
Bussola Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2018. Looks younger, more opaque. Lots of fruit on the nose, like cherries, blackberry jam, and raisins, but also eucalyptus and hints of rubber/acetone. Exuberant. Tastes more like a Port, with a fruit-forward profile reminiscent of prunes and spices. Very full-bodied and primary, with a broccoli rabe note on the finish. 17% alcohol. No points. Andy R's wine. About $87.
OCTOBER 2025: AMARONE ASSAULT #4
